quote:

Michael..

Looking at the primers and case expansion of .001 I would keep going in .5 gr. increments. And see when I did reach a point of primer flatting, or .003-.004 case expansion. But you have done pressure tests at 62000 PSI.

I will give it a try of 51.5 gr. and 52 gr. and see where it goes. It's way to HOT in the 90's to do range work ,I will wait until we get some 70's.

CW, Oh I understand the heat all to well, it's all I can do to go out to the very hot and humid 70 degree air conditioned range and get anything done! Whew, just tires me out! HEH HEH.........

All my pressure trace equipment is down, however, ain't nothing to me to stick 52 or 53 grs of LilGun in it and see what happens! I am starting to shoot both 50 and 475 Super Shorts this weekend getting them ready, I will try some 52/LilGun and the 345 and see what we get! Can't hurt nothing!

Don't let me forget, I will do it, I might just forget to tell yoU!

Michael

quote:

SOB and lot's more cuss words! How is it always YOU! Last time you broke the damned safety, after I went completely through your rifle and it had no problems! Then you get it, break the safety! Now you break the Super Short right when I thought it was perfect! You are trouble! I thought I broke more crap than anyone on the planet, I see I have some competition it seems!

I am the epitome of TTD. If it surveys me it is indestructible.

This fancy gunsmith sh*t isn't working--Michael -can I borrow a BIG hammer?

Yeah will call him in the morning-sad its a really neat little gun.

I am sure we will get it worked out.

SSR

quote:

Originally posted by Cross L:

quote:

SOB and lot's more cuss words! How is it always YOU! Last time you broke the damned safety, after I went completely through your rifle and it had no problems! Then you get it, break the safety! Now you break the Super Short right when I thought it was perfect! You are trouble! I thought I broke more crap than anyone on the planet, I see I have some competition it seems!

I am the epitome of TTD. If it surveys me it is indestructible.

This fancy gunsmith sh*t isn't working--Michael -can I borrow a BIG hammer?

Yeah will call him in the morning-sad its a really neat little gun.

I am sure we will get it worked out.

SSR

Oh no worries at all, hey, want to trade? I will give you mine????

LOL.............

Cross, Sorry I ruined your day. Should be a simple fix. Now after reading about you breaking safeties are you trying to beat the bolt open with the safety on? The breaking of safeties may also have something to do with timing. Now Michael should be banned from owning a hammer bigger than a 2 oz. He is a torture chamber guy for sure. Maybe he just took your gun to the edge before he sent it to you.

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by srose:
Cross, Sorry I ruined your day. Should be a simple fix. Now after reading about you breaking safeties are you trying to beat the bolt open with the safety on? The breaking of safeties may also have something to do with timing. Now Michael should be banned from owning a hammer bigger than a 2 oz. He is a torture chamber guy for sure. Maybe he just took your gun to the edge before he sent it to you.

Sam

Sam

You didn't ruin my day, I wouldn't have asked the question if I hadn't thought something was wrong--it just didn't make sense.

Actually I am glad that I caught it and can get it fixed properly--thanks for the help-

I just don't know why Michael and Brian are using me as a test-bed--

Just wait till I get back east to visit B&M Central-------------


SSR

CrossL

I see no other alternative here in your horrible and disappointing situation with your rifle.

There has never, not ever, not one, ever been a disappointed B&M guy! I cannot live with the guilt of this any longer.

I think you must just send this rifle back to me, I will refund ALL your $$, and I will keep it. Or, I can send you my rifle in it's place, and send a $100 for your troubles! HEH...., or I will send you the money, and you can build another one. I really don't mind at all, and would hate for you to be burdened with that awful gun! So you just don't worry I will look after you, but do send that "Camo" stock with it!






I will just have to "Bear this Burden" myself! LOL....................... When can I be looking for my rifle?

Michael

Michael

You can start looking today-

but its gonna be a loooooooooooooooong wait.



hehehe

besides, I think you are just upset that you now have competition in the "I can break anything " category.

SSR

quote:

I think you are just upset that you now have competition in the "I can break anything " category.

You might be correct, does piss me off a good bit, as I thought for sure no one could come close to breaking as much as I can.

quote:

its gonna be a loooooooooooooooong wait.

OK, so don't be holding my breath on this!

Offer stands, anytime! HEH..... I kinda got to liking that one!

LOL

M

quote:

I kinda got to liking that one!

Me too!



Be prepared I am gonna come see you one of these days.

Do you suppose that if we went on a hunt together planes would fall out of the sky and trucks would explode?

Problem resolved:

Spoke with Brian, he told me that depending on your individual action and set-up that just raising the bolt and closing it might not set the sear. hence when I move mine the firing pin is in its safety notch but isn't put at full cock and the sear engaged till I draw the bolt back and push it forward. He declares it a non issue-even if it does look a bit strange.

So Michael, it still goes to you in my will, but not till then.

SSR

quote:

So Michael, it still goes to you in my will, but not till then. beer

DAMN! I was hoping to screw you out of it, letting you think it was broke! Reckon that did not work!
Have to figure out another way!




What Brian told you, yesterday when I went to check my 475 B&M, it did not cock straight up and down again, had to pull it to the rear, then the next time, it did, so..........

I know for a fact that many I have done that with when dry firing that they did not cock, had to pull them back slightly, then forward.

Well I am very glad you spoke to Brian about it, solves that for us.

quote:

Do you suppose that if we went on a hunt together planes would fall out of the sky and trucks would explode? rotflmo

I am very sure that If We Arrived Alive we would have a great time, but I think it would be a hell of a gamble, and I think I would have some concerns. However, now that we actually know your rifle was not broken, this entire matter may need to be readdressed!

quote:

Be prepared I am gonna come see you one of these days.

Well I am prepared, you must make a plan, you would be very welcome here!

Michael

FOLLOWER SPRING ISSUE

I put about 40 rounds through my 458B&M yesterday - trying to sort out an optic mount issue, but that's another story - and about halfway through, the bottom round in the magazine started to hang-up and didn't want to chamber - a nice way of saying it jammed. Remembering some of the discussions regarding the follower spring, I took mine out and gave it a bend upwards. Reassembled and no more issues.

This makes me believe that the spring may begin to "reset" itself after x number of rounds. If this is the case, then checking the follower spring positioning of the follower should be done periodically while hunting and the spring adjusted (bent) as needed. This shouldn't be necessary, but it seems to be the case in this incident.

Anybody else experiencing similar? If this turns out to be a common occurrence, it may mean we need a stronger aftermarket spring, yes?

Also, this demonstrates the importance of loading a full magazine while practicing at the range, rather than simply loading one round at a time.

Follower, Magazine Spring

First, this has made me realize a few things. This issue is MY FAULT entirely. I have known about the issue with the Super Shorts from day one, its the only real bug that I know of in them, and every single one of them will do it.

What happens, these springs jump over the hump in the front of the floor plate, that repositions the follower, and points the bullet downward, JAM CITY--straight into the feed ramp, locked up tight.

It is not as common in the bigger B&Ms, in fact, I only really remember one of my guns doing that, and it happened to be a 458 B&M like Mikes. My 18 inch gun. But mine did it in the field, when I wanted a second shot on a buffalo!!!!! Thank god I only wanted that second shot, and did not HAVE to have it!

I had shot this rifle well over 400 + rounds in the months before leaving. I put it through hell too on the range, loaded magazines full, did my best to snatch the bolt of it every time. ZERO issues, feed and function like greased ball bearings, could not even feel rounds going in so slick.

Off to Africa! Had not shot the rifle except to check sights. First buffalo with the 458 B&M, 30 yds or so frontal shot on a cow. 420 BBW#13 NonCon blew the big hole in the heart, buff turned to run, I have a jammed tight rifle, and in 10-15 yds buff goes down, end of story. Lucky!

I popped the floor plate, I knew what it was, and sure enough the spring had jumped the hump! Even after all the range work and all the snatching, this crap had to wait until the very worst moment possible. Eh? That's the way it happens sometimes, regardless what you do.

Soon as we got to camp, I found a pair of pliers, bent the edge of the spring downward putting pressure down to the floor plate, replaced it, problem solved. I had not checked it again, until just moments ago after reading Mikes post above, it's still in place, no issues, just the way I did it in Zimbabwe last year.

Honestly, this is my fault that Mike has this issue, and also CW and Cross! I had never really put that much importance on this, because it's such an easy fix. But right now, there really are too many B&M rifles going out, and I may or may not have contact with everyone, and they may have an issue with it.

I am getting on the phone immediately to speak to Brian, and have Brian come up with a real solution to this on all other outgoing rifles, should have been done long ago and the buck has to stop with me--My apologies, My Fault!

It is a very common problem with all the Super Shorts. More rare with the bigger B&Ms. And I have not yet experienced the issue on the 500 MDM. But best solution is, for Brian to sort it out before anyone gets their rifles! I bet Brian can sort this out pretty easy, and will be a little more professional than my solutions! My solutions involve big hammers, Vise Grips and other less than delicate instruments of destruction! LOL.....

I will see if I can take some photos of this in a few minutes.

Michael

It is not a problem with the springs.
Repeatedly bending spring tips is not a good fix.
The design of the spring retaining slots on the M70 is the problem.
The fixes shown on the previous page will do,
but it will be interesting to see what Brian comes up with.
High recoil level is also part of the problem,
and why the rat guns are not prone to it.
Long action M70 500 Ripper: Prone to it.

My spring DID NOT jump the front of the floorplate - I looked for that as it is a known issue here. Bending the uppermost portion of the spring did it for me, but I have no idea how long it will last?

This is just another demonstration of how valuable the exchange of information in Michael's thread has been and continues to be. Every shooter of the B&M rifles should consider themselves to be a field tester/technician and be reporting any incident, however slight!

Sounds like the proper fix for the slipping spring is a properly designed replacement floor plate.

Mike's issue may be a bad spring tension from time of manufacture. Likely not a problem in rat calibers but definately would be with the heavier bullets in the B&Ms. A new spring likely would fix the problem...at least that's my thinking.

Here are some pictures of my guns floor plate and spring. In what position should I J-B weld it.

This is all the way to the rear.



This is all the way to the front.




Can the follower also be a problem because it can slide forward.



And back.



My way of thinking is that the spring should be centered in the magazine box ??????

CW

Most MOST--Take note--Of the time, with the spring forward in the super shorts--Your all the way to the front photo. Move it all the way to the front, feed some dummy rounds through it and if everything works there, and I think it will, lock it down. I would also put a little bend downward for some more pressure too.

Have not seen where the follower on top has ever been an issue.

M

Oh and someone PLEASE remind me, should I forget to call Brian on Monday. I tried today, he was in the polishing/bluing room and had his hands full.

We will sort this out on all future guns. There is just getting to be too many of them, and should be taken care of before they go out, my fault again.

Michael

Finding a way to lock the spring in a middle position,
on the follower and on the floorplate,
might be best, but more complicated than the easy fix,
that worked for me:
Follower forward and locked in place on top of the spring,
and spring rearward and locked in place on the bottom, in the floorplate:

quote:

Originally posted by coyote wacker:
Here are some pictures of my guns floor plate and spring. In what position should I J-B weld it.

This is all the way to the rear.



This is all the way to the front.




The floorplate with spring removed shows marks where the impressed "retaining dimple" in the spring
has left a scratch fore and aft of the recess it is supposed to stay in. Just installing the spring could cause
the rearward part of the scratch.
Recoil movement forward of the spring and follower under recoil could cause the
forward scratch when the dimple jumps the recess.
What worked for me was positioning so that the dimple was rearward in the recess, far as it would go.
Then block it from getting a run forward like this:



Can the follower also be a problem because it can slide forward.
Actually, this shows the spring slid forward and the follower is slid rearward.



And back.
Spring is slid back, follower is slid forward.



My way of thinking is that the spring should be centered in the magazine box ??????

I agree that the follower should not be free to slide back and forth on the top of the spring.
Locking it a middle position might be best.
But I found it easiest to do like this:
Pushing the follower as far forward as possible on the top of the spring,
which brings the rear of the follower right up against the rear of the spring ...



... This way the follower is where it wants to be after that first shot,
and is not going to drag on the back of the box, and it is then given a stop as shown above.
No back and forth sliding of the spring inside the follower slots.
The follower is small enough and shaped properly not to cause any drag on the front of the box.
I found it worked well with both the "fixed" M70 floorplate,
as well as the Sunny Hill Enterprises drop floorplate,
in the long action M70 500 Ripper.

Rip..
I see that I labeled the photo's wrong on the follower.... Thanks

Feeding dummy rounds, it worked best all the way to the front.

What I did was took a die grinder with a small carbide burr and rough up the elongated hole in the floor plate. Scuffed up the top and bottom of the spring ends with emery cloth and de-grease everything with alcohol. Put J-B in the elongated hole slid the spring in, that way the dimple in the spring will be locked in place when the J-B hardens. Then I put a coat on top of the spring end.

Coyote wacker,
That ought to gitterdun.
I like it, only materials needed: JB Weld and a Dremel Tool and some vinyl electrician's tape to smooth and make pretty.
Though heat application will be required to change springs, you won't be doing that unless the spring breaks and you need a new one, down the road.
Doing anything to the follower, or just letting that one ride?
A picture is worth a thousand words.

Wonder what Brian will come up with? ... Reminder to Doc M.

What about preventing future feeding problems by reinforcing the front of the box?
Could be as simple as JB Welding a piece of rectangular flat steel on the front-outside of the box,
like I might do with Dremel & JB:



Or nicer like Rusty McGee did this one, with a shaped chunk of stainless steel soldered on:



There is some room between the front of the magazine box and the stock magazine well front wall.
Just getting that filled in with epoxy in a tight bedding there (release agent on the box)
might be all that is needed
for prevention of battering/dimpling the box by bullet noses under recoil.

Rip...
I'am going to shoot it and see before J-B ing the follower.

It only takes a little more than 600 degrees to help loosen J-B Weld grip. I would not want to heat the spring that much and possibly annealing it.

quote:

Originally posted by coyote wacker:
Rip...
I'am going to shoot it and see before J-B ing the follower.

It only takes a little more than 600 degrees to help loosen J-B Weld grip. I would not want to heat the spring that much and possibly annealing it.

Of course not.
That is why I said you would only do it if the spring broke and you needed to replace it.

My method of JB Welding steel stops for the spring ends allows changing the spring ad lib.
The spring is not epoxied in place.

quote:

My method of JB Welding steel stops for the spring ends allows changing the spring ad lib.
The spring is not epoxied in place.

This is true from your photographs...you've eliminated the forward and backward slippage of the spring in the floorplate receptacle:

And in the follower receptacle:

Both appear to be fairly easy modifications to make…even for the ‘tool’ challenged.

It's not a big secret that in some of the B&M cartridges especially I am not a fan of the Raptor. It just takes up way too much powder capacity, it's impossible to compress the powder because the BBW#13 Solid in the bottom pushes powder outward, not straight down, Bulge the cases, don't go in the chamber. So you are limited as to what you can do.

I like Compressed Loads---Compression of loads buys you a lot in a big bore. For instance, pertaining to Bolt guns in particular, with a compressed load you are less likely to see that third round beat down in the case because of recoil in the bottom of the magazine. Nothing at all wrong with compressed loads, and have many advantages.

I do like the idea of loading rounds in the magazine, BBW#13 Tips attached.

So with these things in mind I put Dan to task for a couple of new bullets for .500 caliber. Flat Base, bands moved forward so they can be seated deep enough to put the tips in, and work through the magazines of my Winchesters, in all three action lengths, Long, WSM, and WSSM for the MDM and B&M. In addition to the bolt guns, these will be excellent additions for the lever gun selections, the 50 B&M Alaskan.

Yesterday I worked some with the 50 B&M and the 500 MDM only. I will play with the 50 Super Short this week, since I have to get it ready for Australia anyway. This will work right in.

50 B&M

Too much compression is still an issue with bulged cases, and with H-4198 anyway. I only worked with H-4198 yesterday, and it's possible if I set my mind to it, that we might change up to a faster powder and get a bit more out of it. I was able to use 78/H-4198 with the 300 gr before I experience case bulge and had one round not chamber. Also, I could take a bit more care in dropping the powder charge too and probably solve this, but not one more granule of H-4198 will go in the case, and seat as deep as needed to install the tip. This gave me 2556 fps with the 300 gr BBW#13 Tip Installed. With the 335 BBW#13 seated deep I used first 75/H-4198 for 2468 fps, then to 76/H-4198 for 2479 fps. No change in velocity, so it's at top end. 76/H-4198 with the 335 started to give some bulge, with no gain in velocity, best load is 75/H-4198 at 2468 fps. All this seated deep enough to work with the W Talon Tips and work through the magazine of the WSM action. Very obvious I could seat the bullet out, and add much more powder to get muzzle velocity up, but without the tip added. One thing to keep in mind here, while I could do this, get more velocity, I would loose every bit of that velocity gained and then far more at 50 yards without the W Tip, vs with the W Tip. Essentially far better off at lower muzzle velocity with the W Tip added, and holding that velocity at 50 Yard impacts. Of course this was a standard 18 inch 50 B&M.

In the 50 B&M the most I could do with the 350 Raptor is 2340 fps, no pressure, but too much case bulge. With the 335 BBW#13 Long Nose NonCon designed for the Super Shorts I am able to run it at 2580 fps with 80 gr of H-4198, and no pressure issues. What I would gain in muzzle velocity, I loose at 50 yards far more at impact velocity without the W Tips added. So in that respect the two bullets with W Tips are a success and have gained ground. Working through the magazine. Now I am still a proponent of adding a tip first round up to the longer nose BBW#13s as well, backing up with standard NonCons. Much to be gained here as well, you start off with that added muzzle velocity, and hit harder at 50 because of it. But, won't work through the magazines either. Life is a bitch when there has to be a compromise sometimes eh!

Either way, it's a win win.

The 500 MDM is much the same, seating deep takes up case capacity, regardless of cartridge, and the 500s are no different than anything else, in respect to big bore cartridges.

I never had time yesterday to get up to top end with the 500 MDM, but will as the week goes forth, probably one more generation of loads and I will be there. Currently with the 300 BBW#13 seated and crimped in the top groove and 98/H-4198 we got to 2963 fps. I can take this to 100/H-4198 I am sure without getting into case bulge. That will put it to over 3000.

With the 335 BBW#13 and 96/H-4198 we got to 2846 fps without any issues.

21 inch barrels on my "remaining" 500 MDMs. Both of these already more than enough to accomplish anything you would do with these bullets.

Terminals will follow this week on these. Along with seeing what the little Super Short can do with the 300 gr bullet. I will also be working some loads this week in the 50 B&M Alaskan with both of them. So it's a good multiple use bullet for sure, both. Adds to the choices of bullets available in .500 caliber, once again. These will do great in RIPs close cousin, the mighty 500 Ripper!





Michael

quote:

Originally posted by michael458:
It's not a big secret that in some of the B&M cartridges especially I am not a fan of the Raptor. It just takes up way too much powder capacity ...

Terminals will follow this week on these. Along with seeing what the little Super Short can do with the 300 gr bullet. I will also be working some loads this week in the 50 B&M Alaskan with both of them. So it's a good multiple use bullet for sure, both. Adds to the choices of bullets available in .500 caliber, once again. These will do great in RIPs close cousin, the mighty 500 Ripper!



Michael

Doc M,
Very interesting!
The no-compromise 500 Ripper should work wonders with all these new bullets.
Since it does +3000 fps with the Cup&Core Hornady 300-grain FTX,
might do better with slick brass Non-Con of same weight with faster powder.
It gets +2900 fps with the W350 Raptor (360-grain weight with tip added),
and at 3.602" COL is a good fit inside the 3.620" boxes of the RUM M70 Winchesters.
Accurate and flat enough for 300 yards too.
With all the help obtained here on bullet developments,
I have a mind to change the name again.

The hard to say "12.7x68mm Magnum/49-bore/.500-Caliber/.338 Lapu Magnum Improved of 2012"
aka "49-10"
aka "500 Ripper"
might also be called the ".500 Berry Uekotter McCourry-Ward"
aka: "500 BUM-W
Pronounced: "Five Hundred Bum Dubya"



On second thought, the new aka sounds like I am casting aspersions on "Dubya."
Can't do that.
It is going to have to be "500 BUM."
Using Berry, Uekotter, McGee this time.

quote:

Originally posted by michael458:





Michael

Nice set of photographs...unfortunately you forgot two of your bolt cartridges - your new 500 B&M and the existing 50 B&M SA...

So after you phone Brian in the morning - this is your reminder! - you need to add the two additional dummy rounds to the lineup and retake the photographs!

Yep...that'll do it!

RIP

One time, with one can of RL 10X (no more) I was over 3000 with the 375 North Fork CPS...... Alas, I can't repeat it after that 1 keg of RL 10X was gone. This is why I am interested in blending IMR 8208 and H-322. And maybe even IMR 8208 and RL 10X. I may be able to recreate that keg of RL 10X. However, must have the pressure traces up and running. The preliminary blend test went extremely well--with the blends giving better performance than either of the original powders as stand alone.

With 100/H-4198 and the 300 BBW#13 I was not able to break 3000?

However, it was damned close as you can get--1 round went 2999 fps. Average was 2991 fps! Damn! HEH HEH..........

I was loading to seat deep, use tip, in the magazine. Getting close to bulge at that point. Oh well, 2991 will do!

Was able to do 2896 with the 335, also seated deep for tips and magazines. Using 98/H-4198. No pressure issues at all. Run into bulge issues before pressure issues.

These bullets will "RIP" in the Ripper!

Thank you for the consideration

quote:

.500 Berry Uekotter McCourry-Ward

I will still call it the "RIPPER" for the remainder of my days--ya'll call it what you wish! HEH HEH..........


Jim

Tried to call Brian, busy every time I called and then I forgot----


Michael

RIP--Our NEW NORTH FORK FPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Introducing the NEW North Fork Nose Profile!!!









Nose projection, meplat, profile, seating depth, everything is perfect for the MDM and the B&Ms, zero issues, all feed and function 100% in all three Winchester Actions. Also, take note, very nice crimp groove in the new profile. I will be shooting tomorrow.

Michael

Excellent!!!
Shorter in length!!!
More stable, and even higher velocities for each weight possible!!!

What would be interesting with the improved North fork is having matched pairs of cup point and solid at the same length. Those cup points they made that were for the 45-70 driven from the 458 Lott did well.

OK, I just got off the phone with Brian at SSK. From this point forward Brian will fix the magazine spring in place in the floor plate so it does not move during recoil. This applies to ALL the B&M rifles from today forward.

Again, this really is my fault in the end as I never made him aware of it.

Michael

quote:

Originally posted by michael458:
OK, I just got off the phone with Brian at SSK. From this point forward Brian will fix the magazine spring in place in the floor plate so it does not move during recoil. This applies to ALL the B&M rifles from today forward.

Again, this really is my fault in the end as I never made him aware of it.

Michael

Most excellent

SSR

Should be interesting to see a simple and elegant
solution that could be applied to any and all M70
Winchesters out there.
Winchester itself should come up with a better version
of bottom metal for all M70 rifles.

quote:

Originally posted by RIP:
Should be interesting to see a simple and elegant
solution that could be applied to any and all M70
Winchesters out there.
Winchester itself should come up with a better version
of bottom metal for all M70 rifles.

RIP
You know, you are correct, Winchester could correct this before it comes out. But the issue is, Winchester people these days, or even in the days of New Haven do not and did not know or have much experience with big bores. Even when Leslie headed the Custom Shop, she confided it was very difficult to keep help, the Custom Shop only consisted of 4 people most of the time, including Leslie, she once confided. And, some of those fresh off the street.

Enter Michael And RIP--making big bores from rat guns, and the rat guns are not 100% prepared. Not hard to figure that one out.

We learn. Some years ago when we started using the adjustable NECG rear sight as standard to go with the NECG barrel band front. I discovered that every single rifle did not have enough adjustment in the rear sight to go up. So I took dremel tool to the rear blade to lengthen the slot in the rear to give more elevation. Well, slots were crooked, ugly, and I have absolutely ZERO talent in these matters, but did not give a shit, they were my rifles, and by god I intended to get them spot on with irons at 25. After several of these, and always the same story, I knew this was not going to work with the general public. So I called Brian, explained to him, and he started lengthening the rear slots so they would have more elevation. Believe me, you can't even tell it, he does a MUCH better job than me.

This spring issue, once again my fault, will be the same way, he will come up with a solution that will be proper, and look proper, and work. Soon as I get one I will take some photos of what he does to solve it.

M

Michael

Finally got a chance to set up crony-

1000 ft elevation

98* temp

your 458SS load- 295gr NC -54gr Lilgun ran 2537fps just a bit sticky, may drop back 1/2 gr--this was with new brass--may be fine with once fired.

325gr BBW#13 solid-46gr Lilgun--ran 2300fps no signs of pressure

Man is this a fun lil gun----hehehehe

am working on a proper quarry for it.



SSR

CrossL

98*--Kinda cool over your way eh? HEH........... It's about the same here, but our humidity matches our temps--heat indexes of 115* +, horrible--I can't breath when going out. Air Con on the Range is pretty damned spiffy!

Running a bit sticky, probably because of the temps. They ran very nice here in the AIR CON at 70*! HEH........... Drop a grain, won't hurt a thing, UNLESS you might have some Ballistically Educated Critters over your way! If they are uneducated then I doubt they will know the difference in 25-50 fps impacts!

There are very few things walking about that can chew up a .458 295 NonCon and spit it back at you with no effect! There are a few, but very damned few!


I have been talking to Layne Simpson this week, and as we know Layne is all over the 50 B&M AK in his lever guns. Layne has written up the 50 B&M Alaskan in a couple of articles now in RifleShooter and Shooting Times, and now he has it featured in an upcoming Guns & Ammo Reloads Column coming up soon.

As you know, my interests have been peaked again with the cartridge because of two things, wanting a couple of Single Shots, Ruger #1 and Winchester 1885, chambered in 50 B&M AK, and these new bullets from Cutting Edge we have primary for running tips in the bolt guns, have made perfect bullets for the 50 B&M AKs in the lever guns as well.

So yesterday I ran some data with a Marlin with the 300 BBW#13 and the 335 #13 NonCons. I made it to 66/IMR 4198 with the 335 and gave me 2275 fps in the 18 inch Marlin, zero issues, no problems.
With the 300 BBW#13 NonCon I went to 69/IMR 4198 but things started getting a little sticky up there at 2420 fps, so backed down to 68/IMR 4198 for a good steady 2375 fps and smooth running. This particular Marlin is very sensitive to 45000 PSI--It will talk to you at that Pressure, confirmed with all the data done with it and the PT hooked up. Since PT is down right now, I am running in the dark, almost. But with this gun it speaks to you at 45000 PSI+. So I reckon 2375 fps is plenty, and I know that none of my critters around here have been educated in ballistics!

Not to shabby for a little lever gun! This cartridge might turn into a beast in a solid Ruger #1 and Win 1885!





Michael

OK, so I got some J-B Weld, both the regular and the KwikWeld. I've never worked with these before but I leave for Ele/Buff in 3.5 weeks, so need to fix this myself.

What tips/pointers/advice from the knowledgeable?

The pics from Coyote wackier look like a job well done and I'm hoping for a similar result, so any advice is appreciated. TIA

quote:

Originally posted by LionHunter:
OK, so I got some J-B Weld, both the regular and the KwikWeld. I've never worked with these before but I leave for Ele/Buff in 3.5 weeks, so need to fix this myself.

What tips/pointers/advice from the knowledgeable?

The pics from Coyote wackier look like a job well done and I'm hoping for a similar result, so any advice is appreciated. TIA

I use the regular J-B it gives you over a hour to work with it.

Mix it 50-50 with a pop-sicle stick, with sand paper rough-up both surfaces to be bonded and clean with alcohol.

I put J-B under the spring on the floor plate and on top, pushing it forward in the slotted indent in the floor plate. Smooth with the stick so you don't have a blob. Any extra can be cleaned up with a shop towel and alcohol.

Keep the floor plate level until hard at least 6 hours, in 24 hours you are ready to reassemble.