The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing 8mm-06 , 338-06 or 280 Rem. Mauser?Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| 8mm-06 , 338-06 or 280 Rem. Mauser? | Login/Join |
| One of Us |
I am preparing for my first Mauser project. I have been trying to decide which caliber to jump with. I would like to hear every ones opinions, and findings between these calibers. I would be rechambering the 8x57 to 8-06 if it were a good shooter. Do I need to remove the barrel to rechamber? Also, I wonder what safeties and triggers you have tried or would recommend?
| ||
|
| one of us |
Caliber choice depends on what your intended use is. Please advise. | |||
|
| One of Us |
I intend to use it on Deer, Hog , Bear, Elk, the dreaded paper, vicious cans, and possibly a few pine cones. As you can see, I am looking for excuses for any reason to shoot, reload, and build something. I guess, I am looking for experiences. Availability of bullets, performance, and so on. SCOUT | |||
|
one of us |
It is always best to remove the barrel to perform the chamber work for accuracy sake. You run the risk of getting a egged chamber if you don't take your time pull the barrel & do it right. Nothing says UNPROFESSIONAL louder than an expansion (bulge) at the base of a fired case due to sloppy chambering techniques / short cuts. ------------------ | |||
|
one of us |
I had one rechambered to 8mm-06 Improved. The performance of the cartridge is outstanding, about on a par with 180gr factory loads in a 300 Win mag, more flexible with heavier bullet weights. (200grs and up) 3000fps is realistic with Nozler 180gr Balistic Tips, 2950fps will give good brass life (14+ reloads with Norma brass) 200gr bullets can be driven @ about 2800fps. The only thing I regret was turning the steps out of the barrel as it seemed to make the point of impact shift unless a few minutes cooling was allowed between shots. A few moments cooling would result in .75" groups at 100yds, consecutive shots would open groups up to 2" The whole outfit with scope and a walnut stock weighs 7 1/2#s Leaving the steps in the barrel wouldn't add much to that. I've heard recently that the steps were the result of a lot of design research. (In other words, don't fix it if it ain't broke!)I am seriously contemplating getting a take off barrel (about $45) and having it rechambered, and put it on the rifle. Nothing says class like a 3-position safety on a M98, and a Timney Sportsman trigger will give a nice trigger pull down to 2 1/2#s. Relieving the recieiver rail slightly and welding on a bolt handle that hugs it will allow LOW scope mounting. [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-06-2002).] | |||
|
| one of us |
Wildcat Junkie-- How long is the barrel? | |||
|
| one of us |
denton: The barrel is standard WWII German issue length, about 23 3/8" | |||
|
| One of Us |
Yes, there are more bullets for the seven, than most others. But, how many does it take to actually make something dead. I am looking for splat experience here. Besides, I want lots of guns, not one that will do it all. SCOUT, | |||
|
| one of us |
I don't have a 8mm-06 but have been thinking about it. I have a couple 8x57's, and they work great on deer, I have a VZ-24 in 8x57 that is very accurate, and not sensitive to the load, virtually anything will group 3 shot's in 1/2" or less at 100yds, 175gr, and 150gr go to same point of impact. I've even used 3 brands of brass, 150, and 175gr bullets, of 2 different types, and shot a 3 shot 1/2" group! | |||
|
| one of us |
scout: The 8mm-06 Imp. shooting the 180gr Nozler B.T. @ 2960fps developes 3501 ft lbs of muzzle energy and when sighted in about 2 3/4" high @ 100yds will be dead on @ about 225yds, 3 1/2" low @ 300. It will carry just over 1 TON (2000ft lbs) of energy @ 340yds. You can get bullet weights in 8mm from 125grs. to 250grs right here in the good old U S of A. If you are looking for bullet selection and "SPLAT" I think there is plenty of both. I shot 3 deer with this combo this year, 2 @ 220yds+ - (paced) and 1 @ 60yds. 2 went "SPLAT" (dead on the spot) with exit wounds the size of tennis balls, (1 @ 220yds, the other @ 60yds, taken broadside and quartering away respectively) The similarity in exit wounds suggests that the Nozler 180 B. T. is effective across a broad velocity range. The one that didn't go splat went about 50yds. It was a very large doe (40" around the chest) that I hit quartering on at about 220yds. (I tried to shoot her when she was broadside without a round in the chamber, after the gun went click and I finally chambered a round, she had turned and was looking my way. It's amazing what they can hear from 200+yds!) The bullet shattered the large part of the lower shoulder, took off a large piece of the heart and lodged in the paunch. When I opened her up, bone fragments the size of a thumb nail were in the intestinal cavity. This seems to be a very efficient cartridge, and recoil is no more than a 30-06. If you are going to rechamber anyway I would suggest you go with the Ackley Improved version, as I seem to be getting great life out of my brass. I use a full length die set to just touch the shoulder. I can feel slight resistance as I close the bolt on a chambered round. I would also suggest that you make a sleeve to cover the area where the military rear sight is located (If you remove it.) and leave the steps in the barrel. [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-06-2002).] [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-06-2002).] [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-06-2002).] | |||
|
| One of Us |
Wildcat junkie Could you agree that I could see at least 100fps or more from the improved shoulder? I have noticed a minimum of 70fps on others. What are your thoughts? I too think leaving the steps in the barrel is a good idea.
| |||
|
| one of us |
scout: Never having shot the standard version, I can't say. The idea of the 40* shoulder and minimal case taper is not only about velocity. It also increases case life by reducing case stretch, while also decreasing bolt thrust. The 40* shoulder is supposed to help in the accuracy department by providing more positive headspacing. I would not consider my loads "Max", but they are warm. I have just reached a point were I'm satisfied with the performance, and I don't seem to be having any problems with sticky bolts or short case life. Gotta go to work, see ya tomorrow! | |||
|
| one of us |
Just another vote for the 8mm-06 AI. Great cartridge. A word about the chambering, some military chambers have a long neck section cut in the chamber. If you just rechamber without takung at least a thread off the barrel shank, you rune the risk of having a step in the neck. Not earth shattering or dangerous, it irons out in the loading (ask me how I know!) but it sure looks goofy until you fix it. Other than that, it's a great round, I use 200 gr. Speers and Noslers and it shoots very well. FWIW - Dan | |||
|
| one of us |
Been reading this with above average interest. I have a rain check on a Turk at the local sporting goods place for $45. I've already turned one of these into a very nice 30-06... lots of work. Thought I would make the next one into an 8mm-06. With the 29" bbl, I'm thinking a straight 8mm-06 will more than hold its own with the AI at 23.5". The local smith will do the ream job for $40... not bad for getting it into shape for loading and experimenting. I'll worry about making it look nice once I find out how it shoots. | |||
|
| one of us |
I have a couple of 8mm/06 AIs in the works right now, too. Seems to make sense. | |||
|
| One of Us |
Looks as if the 8mm-06 may have some real potential. Any one else have some tight groups? Have we done any crown work? Do tell.... SCOUT | |||
|
| <Gary Rihn> |
quote: Uuhhh, one. You may have missed my point. You have a wider variety to choose from, giving you more of a chance to find either A) a more accurate load, or B) more "splat" effect, if that's what you're after. Of course, if your point is to have lots of guns, build all three. | ||
|
| one of us |
I have 98K that I bought off one of the net auctions that took a little time to figure out what it was. It had 8MM MAGNUM stamped on the barrel but after making a chamber cast,the dimensions check out almost idenical to the AI with the exception that the shoulder mikes .460. I use 8mm-06 dies to load for it and they seem to work ok. If I was going to shoot it a lot I would have a neck sizing die made up for it. I think a bench rest shooter owned this rifle at one time as it had european style scope mounts on it, one being on the barrel about 10" from the one on the reciever.The bottom of the forearm has considerable wear from being laid on a rest. It has the stepped military barrel and is full length. It does shoot very well. Best thing is, I think I have about $175 in it. This is the third "pig in a poke" I have bought, the other two being Japs. one a Type 99 chambered for .300 Savage, the other a Tyyp 38 chambered in 6.5X.257 Roberts.The latter is an excelent shooter too, but that is another story. | |||
|
| one of us |
quote: Gary: I think you missed my point. With bullet weights from 125grs to 250grs including brass solids, it seems the 8mikemike does offer a WIDE choice in bullets. The bullet choice might have been a valid argument a few years ago, but I don't think it holds water any more. The same could have been said about the 7mm 40 years ago,(poor bullet choice)but that has obviously changed. By the way, I just picked up a 1942 Whermacht M98. I plan to chamber it in 280 (7mm) Ackley Improved for the really LOOOOONG shots.  Actually I think I might rebarrel the one that has the steps turned out and just rechamber the new one to 8mm-06 Imp. The 8mm is definitely superior if you plan to hunt anything much larger than deer. You just can't churn up as much energy in a 7mm unless you increase the powder volume tremendously. My 8mm-06 Imp. will generate 3500 ft lbs of energy from a 23 3/8" barrel. To get that much from a 7mm, you would need a 7mm STW, and a 26" barrel to boot. Don't get me wrong, I like the 7mm as much as the next guy. I have a 7mm-08 M700 Mountain rifle that shoots bug holes @ 100 yds, and as I've said I plan to have at least 1 of my current M98s in 280 Ackley. I also plan to develope a 7mm (and an 8mm) wildcat "Intermediate Magnum" based on a slightly lengthened WSM case (actually a shortened RUM case) for use in intermediate length large ring M98 actions. The case will be 58mm long with a COL of 3.150" The point is, don't sell the 8mm bore short.  [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-06-2002).] | |||
|
| one of us |
I shot a barrel for a couple of years that P.O. Ackley rebored for me(from 30-06 to 8mm-06),then rechambered the same barrel to the 8mm Ackley Imp. I realized 60-80 fps more velocity in the imp version, depending on the load, with the exception of the 200g and 220g bullets where there was a greater gain in velocity--about 100 fps. Sambubba | |||
|
| one of us |
scout: My 8mm-06 A. I. was also my "first Mauser project". I learned a lot!!! (like having to have almost everything done twice to get it right, sometimes even had to re-do it myself) If you have any questions about magazine lengthening, fire-forming etc. etc., just holler. | |||
|
| one of us |
My 1st mauser project was a .280 rem. What I found is the case is just a tad too long for it to feed smoothly. Seems the case wanted to bind on the top of the chamber on the way in. I had to file and polish the feed ramp to relieve some of the binding. It's still a little sticky on feeding and leaves visible scratches on the case. However it is my favorite deer rifle now. In the process of building that one I ended up with enough spare parts to build another. It just happened to turn out to be a .270 win. It feeds much smoother than the .280. I think it's the extra .10" of case length on the .280 that makes it bind. Anyway, that .270 is still in the works but I am getting execellent accuracy. Good luck and use carefully, it's very addictive. | |||
|
| <Paladin> |
I took a 29+" 7x57 Mauser and had this done: --remove sights, st back a thread; I dropped this back into the military stock, handguard, fittings, bayonet-stud and all, and now have perhaps one of the world's most homely "beanfield" rifles. It is incredibly accurate, to look at it one never would believe it could shoot, but it really does. ...This however picks up on something I noticed about ten years ago: a lot of the OLD Mausers were made by skilled craftsmen working with belt-driven equipment, etc. They could only push their work "just so fast." So, this gave them the extra minutes to notice problems and make things right. They also were milling from forgings, not castings or stampings. Consequently, their products frequently turned out with a higher level of fit and finish than most people are accustomed to seeing today. Regardless, for most of the 20th Century, these rifles had a poor accuracy reputation. That was undeserved: turns out it was the ammo. Today's American bullets are made to such high standards it is not at all difficult to make the old Mausers shoot very tight groups. The quality of the rifles was about 80 to 100 years ahead of ammo technology..... | ||
|
| One of Us |
I am really getting excited with the responses. Please feel free to give more detail, makes me feel confident in using the mil. barrel first. May even give real good performance too....
| |||
|
| one of us |
scout: The only thing you are risking when rechambering the military barrel is the cost of rechambering. ($125 @ McGowen Rifle Barrels. Includes test firing and mods to magazine rails. I believe they even check for feeding) Everything else you do would be done anyway regardless of chambering right? Here's how I would proceed. You will want to check the accuracy potential of the military barrel. I would think scope mounting would be required to do this unless your eyes are better than mine. A recessed flat crown job would be a good idea at this time, and the cost of this would be minimal. PHASE 1: Have the rear bridge ground, drill and tap for scope bases. CAUTION This is something I had to have done twice and I still had to do some hand fitting (filing) on the rear bridge myself. be very carefull who you turn loose on this step as your receiver could be reduced to a paper weight! Grind a small radius to clear the altered bolt handle just behind the rear bridge. Just go about 3/32" deep as you will want to hand fit this after the bolt handle is altered. Have the military bolt cut and weld a bolt handle on that pleases you (I like the Harris as it looks similar to a Ruger M77) It is hard to bend the military bolt handle close enough to clear low scope mounting, but it can be done. I had the bolt handle bent, but ended up having it cut off and having a Harris handle welded on. Have it welded as close to the bolt body as possible and finish relieving the receiver rail to clear it. Again be VERY CAREFUL who does this as too much heat will reduce your bolt to a paperweight. Have a scope compatible safety installed. I installed a "Bueler" type myself, but ended up having a 3 position Model 70 type installed. Again the "Bueler" type will not permit LOW scope mounting. (I like the objective bell on the scope about 1/16" from the barrel if I can get it that low.) This will not be cheap (the 3-pos safety) About $185, but it realy adds class. (if you want to install a "Bueler" type, I have one I'll give you if you'll send the $ of shipping) Okay your done with Phase 1, your wallet it about $250 or so lighter (If you opted for the 3-pos safety, you did didn't you  ) All of this would be done anyway right? Now you can play for a while. Mount a quality scope, beg borrow or steal a set of 8x57 dies, select the bullet of your choice and PLAY for a while I wouldn't fool with factory loads, you want ADULT loads not the lawyer approved "squib" loads put out by "Corporate America". You should be able to get about 2700-2800fps with 175-180 grainers, 2600fps with 200 grain pills. Try IMR 4064 for the lighter weights and IMR 4350 for the 200 grainers. (8x57 dies should be a dime a dozen used, and you can easily form brass from 30-06 cases.) USE EXTREME CAUTION HERE AS YOU MAY BE SO TICKLED WITH ADULT LOADS THAT YOU WILL DECIDE TO STAY WITH THE 8x57 AND MISS OUT ON A WONDERFUL OPPORTUNITY TO SPEND LOTS OF MONEY ON YOUR NEW TOY So now you can decide what you want to do with the barrel. Stay tuned for PHASE 2 [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] | |||
|
| one of us |
Money hole Mauser project PHASE 2: Okay, so your barrel eithers shoots MOA groups or better, or it doesn't. If it does great, you don't need a new barrel. (If an inspection reveals a sound bore) If it doesn't shoot MOA or less, try seating your bullets out where they almost touch the lands in the throat, and try that. It doesn't matter if they feed through your magazine as you are just trying to see what kind of accuracy the barrel is capable of. The long throat will be taken care of when it is rechambered. If this doesn't produce the results you want, you will have to decide on what caliber, and have a new barrel chambered and installed. If you plan on hunting game larger than deer, I would stay with the 8mm-06 even if you are going for a new barrel, it will shoot flatter than a 338-06 in the same bullet weight, and will still generate more than enough energy. A 7mm bore would get the nod if I were going to hunt nothing larger than deer. Lets say your 8x57 is shootig bug holes @ 100yds while pushing a 180gr B.T @ 2750fps and 200gr Partitions @ 2600fps. Enough power to kill anything on this contenent, but are you satisfied? NOOOOOOOOO! To quote Tim The Tool Man Taylor, you whant "MORE POWER ARGH ARGH ARGH!" Going to 8mm-06 Imp. will give you at least 200fps more velocity and 500 ft lb increase in muzzle energy Well now, if you are going to chamber a 30-06 length cartridge in a standard length M98 you will have to lengthen the magazine well. The standard mag well is 3.315" in length, and you need about 3.385" or so. The good news is this won't cost you a dime if you have a "German milling machine" ( a good set of files) a Dremel tool and a "Milled" triggerguard. If your bottom metal is "Stamped", replace it with a "milled" assembly. This should set you back less than $20. If you look at the rear wall of the mag well you will notice it is almost 1/8" thick. You can safely take this down to 1/16" or so with no problems. I would suggest that you grind the teeth off of the sides of the mill file before doing this. When you just start to see the cut out for the floorplate latch emerge through the rear wall of the mag well, don't go much farther. Make a guage out of a dummy round @ 3.370" and make sure everything is true and square before you proceed to the front mag well wall. You can get another .015 or so off of the front of the mag well without requiring any feed ramp mods. Set the COL of your "DUMMY ROUND LENGTH GUAGE" to 3.385", check again for true and square. So now you have a mag well length of 3.385" but the bolt won't come back far enough to pick up the cartridge. Not a problem. Remove the bolt release and stop and grind about 1/32" off of the front of the bolt stop, DO NOT GRIND ON THE BOLT LUG, try and keep it square and just take a little at a time, cuz it's easier to take more off than to put it back. Reassemble and try feeding a magazine full of dummy rounds of about 3.365" COL. Keep working on this until it feeds FLAWLESSLY EVERY TIME! Keep going until you achieve this. You don't have to completely chamber the round, in fact all you have to do is work the bolt fully to the rear and far enough forward to pick up the round and fully engage the extrator. (I love CRF, long live the M98 )This will take you through Phase 2 with the appropriate barrel work. A word about accuracy of the military barrel, it probably won't be equal to a "Shilen or Hart", but it will only be a fraction of the cost. A $75 barrel will still require chambering regardless of caliber, and I doubt if there will be an improvement in accuracy. The Germans made "good stuff", they still do So now you have spent another $150 or so for a total of $400. The rest is cosmetic (restocking blueing etc.) and you can spend anywhere from $100 to $1000 depending on how "purdy" you want it. I've got about $700 or so (not counting the scope)in mine with a real nice AA fancy Black Walnut stock with ebony grip cap and forend tip and 1" "Decelerater" pad. I plan to spend another $500 or so on checkering and blueing etc. You can buy a "factory sporter" for less, but I would doubt if it would be near as satisfying. If you decide to go with the 8mm-06 Imp. version, let me know and I can give you some tips on fire forming as there are some pitfalls (non serious, but annoying) Good luck [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] | |||
|
| One of Us |
My hat is off to you Wildcat Junkie. You have just about answered all my questions and then some. So lets see what kind of knowledge you have in selecting the donor? I am looking at a VZ 24 or two It seems that a sander has hit the center of the stamp on the receiver. Is there enough strength in the ring to polish out all the markings, say maybe .015 or so? I would pass on it, but the action is so tight. Well at least tighter than most of the others I have been looking at. I am also convinced that I am going to pursue the 8mm Improved. I feel it will accomplish all my needs. | |||
|
| one of us |
scout: all I have done is pass on what I have learned from my "first project" I am not a gunsmith, just handy with tools and open minded enough with enough mechanical aptitude to learn from other people, and some ability to sort out B S from fact. As for vast knowledge, I'm flattered, but I think a willingness (or perhaps the ability)to share what I have learned is mistaken for "vast knowledge"  I try to know what I'm talking about and am more than willing to be corrected. ONLY A FOOL KNOWS EVERYTHING! As for the VZ24 action: is it a standard length? I have no personal experience with this action. You will need a standard length (as opposed to an "intermediate length") large ring M98 action. Measure the center distance of the action screws, it should measure 7 7/8" with a receiver diameter of 1.4" As for polishing out .015 mars on the receiver, I would suggest you post that question on the Huntamerica gunsmithing forum as a question to jbelk. He is the only person on these forums that I have personal knowledge of, and I can vouch for his "vast knowledge" If your actions are large ring "intermediate length" (7 3/8" long) well I have a whole nuther idea on what to do with those Gotta go to work, toodles Oops that last dimension should have read 7 5/8" (for an "intermediate length" M98) I didn't have time to proofread before I left for the "graveyard shift". [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] | |||
|
one of us |
I have to say what a good read! A few things. I have a 8mm-06 Imp. that my father and I built years ago and it is a wonderful rifle. Wouldnt trade it for nothing. Looking back when we built it,(early 80's) there wasnt that same stuff around and we just did what alot of mauser owners were doing, taking grandpas old war relic and making a hunting rifle out of it. Now, when looking around (in the middle of a vz24 winter project myself) I see that there are hundreds of choices out there. Stock/barrel combos running $259 (Fajen ace varmiter stock, 220 swift, ss fluted barrel, Midwayusa.com), triggers with side push/pull saftey, mounts, bolt handles etc. Having it barreled, finished chambered, and test fired wont cost an arm and a leg.. Good luck my friend. Jason Ps. If you want to go wildcat, go WILD! | |||
|
| one of us |
jag! a side push pull trigger safety on a M98! GAG PUKE come on now THAT is sacrilege  A 3 pos M70 type is the only way to go You did inadvertently make my point, "it is a wonderful rifle" I doubt if an "economy barrel from Midway will out perform a sound, German made, properly chambered military barrel. As for something wild, what could be wilder than an "8mm-06 Ackley Improved? Were talking NO LESS THAN 11 SYLLABLES HERE! I love it when someone comes up to me at the range and asks "Is that a .270 or what?" I just love to lay all them syllables on em. The puzzled look on their faces gets my "jollies" off ---------SCOUT: after giving it some thought, I don't think I would try to polish off .015 from the front receiver ring as it might open a can of worms when you go to mount a scope. I have seen articles in magazines about using TIG welding to remove crests etc. from the front receiver. Perhaps this would be a better route? Again CAUTION and lots of "heat stop paste" would be in order here as we are (again) talking potential paper weights here. If you decide to go that route make sure they use mild steel wire or it won't blue properly. Post this question and see what kind of feed back you get as I am not talking from personal experience here!------------------ [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] | |||
|
| One of Us |
Wildcat, Good point on that .015, could make real problem.... Trying to get my hands on one without that big stamp on it.... I am not real excited about welding all that up... Looking forward to your forming class, when will sign ups be??? Also, could you point me in the best supplier for my 8mm projectiles >-> | |||
|
| one of us |
scout: The front scope base will cover most of the crest, I didn't bother with mine, but it wasn't very large. My newest/old M98 only has 42 stamped at the rear edge, and the little eagle w/swastika on the side  My 8mm-06 Imp has several of the little boids flyin' around on it. Both have "Mod. 98" on the left side rail just ahead of the stripper cutaway. As for projectiles, my personal preference is the Nozler 180BT and 200Par. I use Sierra 175s for fireforming and plinking. The Nozler 180BT will actually shoot flatter than the 175 sierras with the same powder charge (59gr IMR 4064). Bullets are available from almost all of the US makers, and the 8MikeMike is the 30-06 in Europe, so there is a plethora (is that a word?) of bullets available there. I think Woodliegh makes a 220gr BRASS round nose (I mean round as in .1615 radius) solid. I think they are turned on an automatic screw machine. I'll bet THAT would be "vedy intelesting" to say the least. An 8mm-06 Imp would probably put that pill out @ 2600fps or so. Can you imagine the penetration of that I'll bet it would be good "pachyderm medicine" with proper shot placement. Look through the Midway catalogue etc. Call every maker of 8mm bullets you can find a phone# on and see what kind of "freebies" (brochures, samples etc.)they'll send ya. As for a class, log in at www.huntamerica.com and go to the "rifles and riflesmithing" forum, start asking questions there. Jim Belk (username J Belk) does have a "vast knowledge" of Mausers and all thing "rifuler" Now a question for you: How does one identify a "VZ24 action ?------------------ [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] | |||
|
| <CAL9 from planet Fargo> |
Both have "Mod. 98" on the left side rail just ahead of the stripper cutaway. "snip" How does one identify a "VZ24 action ?Junkie- A VZ24 is a standard length action of good quality. Where yours says Mod.98, it will say VZ24 and possibly other markings also. CAL | ||
|
| one of us |
quote: So CAL9: What the heck do I have? One is stamped with a small crest. I think is something like "ce" and 44. The side rail "Mod 98" is in "Old English" script It has several eagle/swastikas on the receiver, barrel etc. There are several other markings on it, proofs I think. The one I just picked up only has 42 on the rear of the receiver ring and a eagle/swastika on the side. The "Mod 98" on the side rail is in New Roman" type script. I don't think there are any other markings on it other than matching seriel#s on every thing ------------------ [This message has been edited by wildcat junkie (edited 01-07-2002).] | |||
|
| <CAL9 from planet Fargo> |
[QUOTE]So CAL9: What the heck do I have? I honestly don't know. I do not claim to be a mauser pro. It Sounds like you have various manufacture dates of a K98. A couple good places to ask are the mauser forum at www.mosin-nagant.net and Keiths K98k page at http://home.thezone.net/~k98k/k98kframe.html CAL | ||
|
| One of Us |
Wildcat, I have been reading some posts on the 98. If memory is correct, the 44 is the arsonal that refurbished your weapon. SCOUT.. | |||
|
| one of us |
Acording to Ball your rifle was made by Sauer& Sohn in 1944. Ray | |||
|
| one of us |
m1carbine: I figured that the # referred to the year off manufacture as my father once had a M98 stamped "1904" with the word "DANZIG" under that. I traded it away for some welding on a motorcycle frame when I was "younger and stupider"  So can you give me any more info on this action. I also found the "ce" in "cursive" on the barrel. The "fit" on this action seemed to be good, but the "finish" left some to be desired, it also HAD "stamped" bottom metal. Yuck! I wished I had know about the "1909 Argie" bottom metal when I replaced the "stamped" crap.------------------ | |||
|
| one of us |
Durring WWII the germans used manufacturing codes for all millitary equipment. These codes could be numbers or letters. Most people say not to use the recivers from the late war guns beacuse for potental prolems from relaxed quality standards. Most say that the potental problem years are 44 & 45. I have worked on one 44 and it did not seem to have any probems. With your rifle having been made in 44 the finish isn't going to be that great do to hurred production. Any other questions? | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 2 3 4 5 |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing 8mm-06 , 338-06 or 280 Rem. Mauser?
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia
| View $GS_USERNAME's Public Profile |
| Add $GS_USERNAME to my Buddies |
| Add $GS_USERNAME to my Ignore List |
| Invite $GS_USERNAME to a Private Topic |
| View Recent Posts by $GS_USERNAME |
| Notify me of New Posts by $GS_USERNAME |