The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Rifles Double Rifles .615 Nitro Light/20-Bore Rifle/RBL Slug GunGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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RIP I haven't been in the reloading room for two or three days. I'll weigh one when I get near one. I don't have notes for that rifle handy where I'm at currently. The bore rifles tend to be much more flexible/forgiving on projectile weight. I always start with roundball as they also almost always tend to shoot well with ball. Since it works and I don't and haven't had access to an appropriate mould, I just haven't gone down the conical road with that particular rifle. That's why I asked if you had one. I tend to ask any/everyone the same question. Some day I'll get ahold of a pound or so of slugs and I'll try them. Until then I'm perfectly happy with the roundball. Have you tried the mountain molds company? _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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RIP: Here is a pic of the receiver... the wood to metal fit is as good as I could ask for and the colors and engraving are very well executed. The gun balances on the hinge and is a joy to carry. I'm not sure how Ken did it, but this one shoots Brenneke's, shot and buckshot to the sights. I've used all three on game - Really a cool concept, if you think about it!  My understanding is that Russ Gould imported these unfinished and then had then had them finished somewhere stateside. I think they imported a few of them and then it became cost prohibitive to continue to have them regulated and finished over here. He also told me that having them finished in Europe was not workable because Brenneke's were not available over there. Anyway, I'm glad I got a hold of mine and it will likely stay in my collection. Oh, meant to add that I think Russ only has one of these left... He's reduced the price and I would suggest that someone grab it ;-) | |||
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I know discussion is 20ga.but I am having a 12ga.rifled double being made in a few months and would what best ammo to used for regulating? They tikd me to used Remington Sabot, but since is my first one that wanted to know if I can used anything else? Also the best to ship ammo without alot problem from the shipper? So can anyone help me? | |||
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One problem with factory slug ammo is that it gets changed very frequently, and you can end up with your rifle regulated for a load you cannot buy anymore. I don't mind reloading for a double rifle but the shotgun with slugs in to me a pita I don't want to undertake. The one company that hasn't changed its original slug line up, though they have added to it is Lightfield. I use 2 3/4" 12ga Lightfields in one rifled shotgun and the accuracy is excellent 50yds and very good at 100yds, 3" at 100yds. Results on deer have been excellent and I've killed a bunch with that gun and load combo. The Lightfields are a near full bore saboted slug keyed to a small sabot that expands on firing to take rifling and deer hit decently with them do no go far. Some of the other sabot slugs I've seen used or used over the years don't do nearly as well in either accuracy of effect. I use the blue hulled version. Here's a link: http://litfld.com/wp/?page_id=14 JPK  Free 500grains | |||
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For a bore rifle, run full bore ammunition. Sabot ammunition will at best simulate down-loaded performance achievable with the sub-caliber projectiles. If for instance you want to run .45 caliber saboted bullets, run .45 caliber barrels. _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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I've had several people PM me on where to get one of these. Beyond the known gun auction sights, I am not sure. I know that srose just posted a pretty little Chapuis 12ga DR. Chapuis Slug Gun | |||
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Ok RIP, I made it back to the ranch and to the loading room. Quite the task it seems... That .684 1/10 ball weighs in at 460 grains. _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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Tinker, Thanks. That is .001" over "groove size, eh? Bigger and heavier than I thought a RB would be for .683"/.653" octagonal rifling. Educational for me. If it shoots that payload to regulation, then yes, why bother with a conical.  Hexagonal Whitworth rifling here?  That one shows a minor diameter circle in the bore, which if a lead RB, 'twould just skid along the rifling with no spin. The 20ga "Shot & Ball" is a smoothbore with IC and M fixed chokes and a regulation of barrels to shoot the Brenneke slugs, eh? Very nicely done. Basis shotgun? Verney-Carron or Sabatti or Chapuis?  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> http://www.doublegunhq.com/ "Bad Boy Shot & Ball" TM sxs gun, 26" 20 or 12 ga, regulated for Federal Truball slugs and usable with any type of shot, ejector or non-ejector. Game scene engraved scalloped action, hand-checkered walnut stock with full length trigger tang, full length rifle rib with integral quarter rib, NECG/Rechnagel skeletonized fiberoptic sights. A LIMITED NUMBER OF 20GA EXTRACTOR GUNS NOW IN STOCK OFFERED AT $1950 - place orders online per normal procedure. For additional pics, see picture gallery. http://bigfivehq.com/galleries/s&b.htm "BAD BOY" Shot & BAll Gun Guns capable of shooting both shot and balls (slugs) were once quite popular, especially in the English gunmaking trade. Several makers developed this concept and patented their own twist on it. Holland & Holland licensed Fosbery's patent for ratchet rifling and called their gun the "Paradox". Westley had the "Explora" and in 20ga ,the "Fauneta". Lancaster applied their oval bore idea to the "Colindian". These guns fell out of fashion and are today collector's items. (H&H recently reintroduced the Paradox and is making ammunition for it again). All of these guns had some form of rifling, to enable the use of conical bullets. Modern slug technology has made rifling unnecessary ... the rifling is now on the slug itself, allowing a shotgun to be pressed into use as a rifle. The first attempt at this was the Foster slug, but being hollow, it lacks sectional density and is rather ineffective and inaccurate. The Brenneke is a much better slug and is popular in Europe. Federal has brought us the "Truball", a surprisingly accurate and effective solution that works well through a choked smoothbore, and has proved popular and highly accurate in pump and semi-auto guns. This last development allows us to once again shoot slugs through our SXS guns...assuming that the gun is properly regulated. Unfortunately, guns designed for shot are normally hopelessly out of regulation with ball and have rudimentary sights. So we have built a gun that is specifically designed and regulated for Truball ammo, and further it has the lines and styling cues of a double rifle: a full length rib with integral quarter rib and front ramp; high quality sights; and a full length trigger bow tang. This is primarily a slug gun, but will do double duty on birds as the bores are choked, the left being tighter than the right. The 20 gauge gun has 3" chambers and shoots a 330 grain bullet at 1600 fps, enough medicine for pretty much anything in North America but especially suited to boar, bear and deer hunting. The gun is available with extractors, or ejectors on special order. These guns are made exclusively for us and are sold in the USA exclusively by us. By carefully using parts and manufacturing processes common to shotguns produced in volume, we can offer a gun that looks and feels like an expensive double rifle for the price of a shotgun. Click on the pictures below for full-sized images, and feel free to contact us by email or by telephone at (503) 263 3787 business hours Pacific for further details. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Well I am going to be able to resist the "Bad Boy Shot & Ball" because I have several double shotguns O/U and SxS, 20, 12, and 10 guage with which I can simulate that performance, some have rifle sights screwed onto rib, and some have the "Paradox" rifled screw-in chokes. I can get at least one of the two barrels shooting slugs to where I aim it.  Besides, it would be unseemly greedy of me to go grabbing another rare gun right now ...  | |||
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RIP: This is the one I was referring to... They quit regulating them to true-ball's because they demonstrated poor penetration. My understanding is that he has one left in the white. JDA | |||
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 Truballs are just Foster slugs with a plastic ball under the skirt, supposedly makes them more accurate, more sure obturation in a smoothbore, I reckon, flying with no spin, just badminton-birdie, heavy-nosed-light-tailed, dart stabilized. The "rifled" ribs on the side don't make the slug spin in flight. They just allow the slug to compress more easily in a choked bore, if fired in other than a cylinder barrel, so as not to damage the barrel. Octagonal rifling is interesting, with round ball, only a small circumferential band of the ball is fully obturated at the equator of the ball. Must lead the bore very little, low stress and clean. .684"-diameter ball in a .683"-grooved/cornered-diameter octagon makes great sense. Getting the right diameter for a conical in Whitworth rifling sounds like a challenge for barrel stress consideration. Nope, I would not try it with a "museum piece," stick with the perfectly performing hard, round ball. | |||
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Handloads for the RBL: I am most interested in sabot loads with this gun. A third Tony: Member "NE 450 No2" "Triple-Tonied" on this thread, by referring to "75% Rule Again" here: http://forums.accuratereloadin...781074311#9781074311 If I could reverse directions on Tony's "75% rule" it would mean the 260-grainer at 1800 fps is a 75% load, which means the 100% load would be with a 350-grainer: 350gr x .75 = 262.5gr Also, I can adjust regulation so a 300-grainer might work too, or heavier than 350-grain bullets. .452-caliber/300-grainer at 1600-1700 fps would make this a top-end .454 Casull 7-1/2"-barreled-revolver equivalent. .458-caliber/350-grainer at 1500-1600 fps would make this a low-end 45-70 Govt. rifle equivalent, and might even shoot to same regulation as the 45-cal/260-grainer at 1800 fps, by 75% rule. Better penetration than with full-bore lead slugs. 400-405 grainers at 1400-1500 fps, 450-graines at 1300-1400 fps, 500-grainers at 1200-1300 fps. Whatever the twist rate will handle. Searching for shotshell sabot-slug components ... | |||
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http://www.ballisticproducts.c...productinfo/1244120/ A nose-pour, hollow-base mould from Lyman, 20-ga sabot slug mould for 350-grain badminton birdies. Uses a standard plastic wad cup as sabot, star crimped, plastic hull. That would make some economical ammo. Gyro and dart stabilized?  Ah nuts! 12ga offerings are OK, 20ga components offered, not so good! Make my own wooden sabots like the French started with?  | |||
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RIP I have that mould for 12ga (for years now!). Haven't run the projectiles yet though. Friend up in canada says that with the base plug modified for a more robust slug (heavier) they penetrate like mad, and in a straight line. The head is .685 The tail is ~.667 My plan was to try them in the WR Actually forgot I had this until earlier today when I dug up the stash of roundball. The mould would be easy to modify, and as a nose pour, I could also easily machine a new nose plate with cavity to lengthen and modify the nose profile. As cast the slug is right about .775 long For you the fosbery slug in 20ga with modified plug for more robust tail and sized for your groove diameter might be great. I might actually have one of those moulds here too. Much of the bore rifle goodies have been packed away since we bought this ranch a few years ago. _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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Tinker, Ha! That 12-ga Lyman sabot slug mould seems like it would be perfect for your WR 16-bore with no sabot.  "The head is .685 The tail is ~.667 My plan was to try them in the WR Actually forgot I had this until earlier today when I dug up the stash of roundball. The mould would be easy to modify, and as a nose pour, I could also easily machine a new nose plate with cavity to lengthen and modify the nose profile. ... As cast the slug is right about .775 long" 12-ga sabot slug Lyman mould:  I am still cogitating on this. http://slugsrus.com/store/index.html Slugs-R-Us has some 20-ga sabots that take "44"-cal handgun bullets and I have some JFP and JHP (Hornady XTP) of "44"/.429-caliber and 300-grains. Sabot weighs 60 grains. Might work better than a 44-mag handgun on deer and hogs. 35-cents each:  Sabot Pressure Wad, 20ga, Empty SKU: Z20/SPW For Rifled Barrel Shotguns Only .625 solid wall sabot with double chevrons weight: 60 grains Can be loaded with most .44 cal bullets or make your own Key Benefits SPW discards on impact Splined holding compartment allows for maximum rotational spin from rifling to the slug - no slipping Double Chevron for lower recoil curve Aerodynamic Vortex for added in flight stability and adding back drag Specialized polymer material to withstand temperatures well below 0°C  "STI Sabot Pressure Wad - SPW This one unit piece incorporates a sabot, aerodynamic vortex, double chevron cushion, and gas seal. There is no other single unit piece available nor a sabot/wad team so aerodynamically designed to create a longer in flight profile to produce the precision results as is called for in the shooting industry today. We are sure you will find this product to be the most exceptional sabot slug that you have had the pleasure of shooting." NOTE: The slug compartment is splined to hold the slug in place guaranteeing maximum rotational spin to the bullet from the barrel rifling therefore increasing the accuracy. You can design loads to your specifications. Not all shooters are looking for the same results, but are shooting for the same target - accuracy. Load for your preferences. You will find that when you are loading for velocity and a flat trajectory pressures can tend to be down from the norm of other wads due to the double chevron of the SPW. Therefore with some loads you will enjoy lower recoil and better performance than what is found in factory loaded ammunition - Just another little design benefit. There are no velocity restrictions on the SPW. It works equally as well at 1600 fps and beyond as it does at 1000 fps. You choose the velocity you wish to shoot and the energy you wish to deliver. - Best accuracy will be achieved if all loaded shells (of same powder charge) be of equal finished length - Whichever load you choose, remember that the nose of the slug must not protrude beyond the roll crimp on the hull - Always use straight wall hulls." ........................................................................................................................................... I hear that .625"/350-grain round ball for 20-bore is common, but I am wondering if I can use round ball in a 1:26" twist at about 1500 fps? My groove is .615", and bore .605" (best I can measure), so, if I try ball will I be better off with a .616" ball diameter? I would just as soon cast my own if something as simple as that will work. Push a .625"/350-grain round ball through a .616" sizer to make a small football with equatorial band to align the loading into a 20-ga hull? Also, .625" sabot diameter stuffed with .429"-caliber bullet, in a .615" grooved barrel? Plastic is soft ... I am going to dissect one of the approved Winchester sabot loads and see what that sabot measures ... | |||
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0.625" is the correct plastic sabot diameter, used in the Winchester Supreme Elite Dual Bond sabot slug with .452-cal/260-grain bullet, 20-ga, 2-3/4". Claimed ballistics: 1800 fps MV 1605 fps 50 yds 1430 fps 100 yds 1279 fps 150 yds 1157 fps 200 yds I can duplicate (close enough) this load with the Slugs-R-Us sabot and handgun bullets, maybe even better it. Dissected $2.80 priced load, all components weighed, measured, spec-ed, for the record, includes 37.0 grains of flake shotgun powder, to be QuickLOAD predicted. COaL with roll crimp is 2.475". Sabot length is 0.920", sabot diameter 0.625":  Sabot and bullet, together weigh 306.2 grains. Silver bullet load, perfect for vampire hunting:  Opposite twist barrels, LH twist (counter-clockwise) on the left barrel, RH twist right barrel (clockwise, viewed from breech). Bores are so shiney they reflect similar patterns of objects from far wall. Dang the ding at the left muzzle ... soon to see how it shoots:   | |||
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Ball a few thou over groove dia is good. For your rate of twist and shallow grooves try a tough alloy. Wheel weight might do the trick. Pushing .625 through a .615 sizer would likely be great, if you have .625 ball or mould go for it. Wide meplat hard cast .45 bullets might be nice in those sabots you show above here. Let it fly and see how it goes! I'll hang in here to see how you do. _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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OK, lead alloy roundball/football (sized to my rifling) might be as ambitious as I get. I will see if the sabots from the expensive stuff can be picked up off the ground and re-used with hard-cast and jacketed 45-cal heavies. The sabots that Slugs-R-Us sells will require 44-cal like: .430/265-grain Hornady FTX pointy plastic tip  .430/300-grain Hornady XTP HP  .429/300-grain Barnes Buster FN-FMJ  Or hard-cast 44-cal heavies ... It is snowing here again today, the fluffy white stuff coming down might cover up sabots lying on the ground. As soon as there is some kind of hard crust on the ground, and I can get to the public range 20 miles down the road, I will see how this "Lil'Baby" shoots. FWIW & BTW, unless "sumbuddy who know" can correct this, "RBL" as far as I can tell stands for "Round Body Launch." So named when CSMC "launched" the marketing of their "round body" actioned shotguns. "Round Body Lil'baby" works also for the ~6.5# RBL Professional 20-ga. | |||
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Maybe these would work for plinking, rolled in liquid alox (Lee) lube, with gas seal and wads in plastic or brass cases? No sizing required. .610"/344-grain roundball: Ball diameter is midway between my bore and groove diameters. 20.3 to the pound, 20.3-Bore balls!  | |||
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Rip, Have you seen the Thug Slugs from BPI? http://www.ballisticproducts.c...roductinfo/SSPPTS20/ I think this would be a great short range option,would love to hammer a hog with one! Simply, Elegant but always approachable | |||
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RIP I'll dig up some images of what my wad column and components look like. That small size ball might strip across the rifling in your fast twist barrel. You will see. That's where somewhat tough alloy and a few thou over groove size help at the end of the day. Shoot that thing! Post results and targets :-) _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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Also, on brass cases - it's highly unlikely that magtech thin brass will be useful to you at all. Those big custom cases you featured earlier, with their thick walls and cut to fit your chambers look like they'd do the trick! _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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Maybe those lead balls could use a tinfoil hat to keep the gasses at bay. Just a conspiracy theory  577 BME 3"500 KILL ALL 358 GREMLIN 404-375 *we band of 45-70ers* (Founder) Single Shot Shooters Society S.S.S.S. (Founder) | |||
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Seasons44, No doubt the Thug Slug from BPI would be a good one, in either smooth bore or rifled. But I am wanting to make this RBLil'baby into a "Sabot & Ball" gun. Sabot with large handgun bullets, and ball up to full-bore 350-grainer. I am getting some new components from BPI and slugsrus.com | |||
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Yes, I just concluded that myself about Magtech brass. I can cut the thick RMC brass to 2.5" length for the RBLil'baby. I also got a tip from the BPI slug-loading manual, about using teflon tape to wrap a slightly small ball. I will forget the lube on the .610" ball, but wrap it with teflon tape, plumber's gossamer pipe thread sealing tape. The .610" ball in the .605-bore/.615-groove barrels might do like that. I will be looking for a proper +.615" ball mould, unless this works so well I stick with .610" ball. .610" ball wrapped tight in teflon turban would sure be slick and easy on the barrels. Ballin' might be very satisfying, if the twist ain't too fast. I have proper 12-ga ball mould and sizer. That will be next bore-rifle "balling." | |||
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Or a teflon tape turban? Also, I am thinking of splitting the solid slugsrus.com 20-ga sabot bullet cup so that it discards at muzzle instead of on target impact: I have some of the BPI 12-ga sabots ordered, to play with in 12GaFH-3.85", they take .500-caliber handgun bullets. Already split sabot cup I prefer, too bad they don't offer this in 20-ga, like Winchester uses:  | |||
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If I recall, reflon tape is good for a couple tenths. Might need a few wraps there! On the NEI fosbery 20bore paradox mould, I have a bullet cast from the 20bore mould. 490 grains! You could very easily size those to groove or plus a thou or two. _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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Going to be one hell of a stomper, Have always admired these little bore guns since here in NJ its either shotgun or muzzleloader. If you have any .54 sabots I have a paradox "like" slug which you may wanna try. Its my go too in my muzzleloaders and was a brainchild of doubledown and me and then executed by accurate molds. 420 flat nose  Simply, Elegant but always approachable | |||
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I have posted on this subject asking about buying ovee counterammo for regulating the barrels on by converison, they commended Remington Sabot slugs. But what would you guys thing?I hope to start reloading in the near future, so can anyone help? | |||
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I noted above in this discussion that my opinion on the bore rifle is that if you are running a bore rifle, run full bore projectiles. A sub-caliber projectile will at best give sub-standard performance compared to it's potential in the appropriate barrel. For instance, if you want to run saboted .45 caliber bullets, build the rifle with .45 caliber barrels. Since you discuss a custom build, I suggest you start out right in the first place. In my experience of quite a few years owning and running bore rifles, full caliber bullets or ball (I actually prefer ball) give amazing performance. I would hand load. You might consider using Holland and Holland Paradox ammunition for regulation if you are bound to factory ammo. You can do better at the loading bench.
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More snow. I tried anyway. Got the keys to the snow-closed public range Sunday afternoon and got myself stuck in ice and snow at the entrance gate. Had to walk down the county road and help another motorist get unstuck, then they drove back and helped me get unstuck. Maybe next weekend for patterning my shotgun! 
Excellent! The NEI WR-style Fosbery 20-bore slug mould is next on my list for mould aquisition, right after a proper ball mould, for hard-cast ball of +.615" diameter. I will need the proper sizer, aye, for the WR Fosbery slug, but a ball mould ought to throw a ball diameter not needing sizing, for the lead alloy selected. More planning needed for ball mould, but for now I have "Teflon-sabot balls." Some of the PTFE/Teflon thread sealing tape says it is .004" thick, printed on some labels. However, when you wrap a .610" lead ball with a 2" length of the 3/4"-wide PTFE tape, it does not add much diameter. It takes 16" of tape, wrapped in 8 segments of 2" each wrap, to bring the ball diameter reliably up to +0.625". This effectively creates a plastic sabot for the ball, so proper plastic sabot diameter of .625" was achieved. Sabot-ball! This should cut down on leading of the bore and skidding, will be a great gas seal. .610"-diameter ball in a .625"-diameter Teflon sabot, through .605"-bore/.615"-groove. Member nitro450exp also has related that he gets good results with ball in his custom 20-bore double rifle with 1:24" twist and 0.622" groove, with .625"/350-grain ball, IIRC, though he had considerable leading. This bodes well for my 1:26" twist rifling. If 1/2"-wide tape is used, probably a dozen 2"-long wraps would be needed. The first 2"-long wrap of the 3/4"-wide tape is equatorial, second wrap is polar, third through eighth wraps alternate on every-which-longitude of the ball, ball is rolled between palms after each 2" piece of wrap is applied, clingy tape clings like Saran wrap:   | |||
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Pretty cool tape work there. Now let's see some tinfoil hats  Remember, shiny side out! 577 BME 3"500 KILL ALL 358 GREMLIN 404-375 *we band of 45-70ers* (Founder) Single Shot Shooters Society S.S.S.S. (Founder) | |||
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Another great idea! I have a 54-caliber Hawken, with Hornady swaged lead balls and a "REAL" conical mould from Lee for it. I might find the right sized ball or slug to fit inside a normal, plastic shot-cup wad for 20-gauge. If it is snug, the wad will work as sabot. Maybe .475-.500-cal handgun bullets, and Teflon tape wrapping can be used there too, to make a ball or bullet snug in a wad. Or a two-ball-sabot using a plastic shot-cup wad? Depends on thickness of cup walls and diameter of ball.  The +.625" Teflon-sabot ball is a nice snug fit in the Cheddite plastic hulls, no shot-cup wad needed, just gas seals and fiber/cork/felt- filler/spacer wads. The regulation load from Tony Galazan has a bullet plus sabot payload of 306 grains at 1800 fps. The "reverse 75% rule" load might be about 400 grains payload at about 1500-1600 fps. | |||
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Abrasive tin or aluminum foil in my barrels?  | |||
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I have some Remington to compare to the Winchester "Dual Bond" sabot slugs that Tony Galazan preferred. The Remington 20-gauge "PREMIER AccuTip Bonded Sabot Slug" has same weight 260-grain bullet but is advertised at 1850 fps, 50 fps faster than Winchester. Remington has a "big green" plastic tip on theirs, with "spiral nose cuts" or "power ports" in that nose cap.  Must be accurate, but I am wondering if they whistle when they fly. They ought to shoot close to regulation for the Winchester sabot slug. I think they are 58-caliber in the 12-gauge slug, but I have not dissected the 20-gauge specimen yet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaL61Z0nzf0  Then there is the Hornady SST slug for 20-gauge. Will try those too. 20-gauge: 250-grain Monoflex-FTX (monometal-gilding metal with plastic tip 45/.458-cal bullet) at 1800 fps.  Supposed to be zero-ed at 150 yards if +2.5" @ 50yds, +3.3" @ 100yds, -8.2" @200yds.    Whenever the weather allows, I'll shoot those too. I'll post handloading adventures here for sabot and ball, if I ever get any range time ... | |||
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For the ball mould look up Jeff Tanner in the UK He conducts business through a US contact. Custom ball mould. any size, affordable and quick service. Tell him your alloy and he will tailor the mould cavity to produce ball of correct size. I do not recall Nitro450exp discussing alloy of the roundball he used in his rifle. Proper alloy, lube, and gas seal (all achievable easily) will eliminate leading in a bore which is not rough. If a man is getting leading, he needs to look at those issues. There he will find the cure. _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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Tinker, After all my googling for custom round ball moulds I had identified Jeff Tanner in UK already. I was ogling the cannonball moulds, etc. Seems like competitive round ball shooters worldwide seek out his moulds. Your recommendation, cinches it. Not much in the way of alternative. Your ball alloy is 10-1 (91% lead + 9% tin): 11.5 BHN, eh? Pure lead: 5 BHN My choice for my relatively shallow-for-bore-rifle rifling is: Lyman #2 alloy, 90% lead + 5% tin + 5% antimony: BHN 15. I'll see about getting a .617"-diameter round ball mould for Lyman #2 alloy balls, from Jeff Tanner, UK. That is +0.002" over my .615" groove, and same mould ought to make .6155" ball of pure lead, that could be wrapped with Teflon tape if need be.  | |||
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http://www.jt-bullet-moulds.co.uk/index.htm That should get you there. I will have to dig up my lead hardness tester and report back to you on hardness of projectiles I've cast. _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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Yep:  | |||
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It will just clean em out A few foil covered balls won't harm anything. Can you measure what a single layer wrap of foil would measure? 577 BME 3"500 KILL ALL 358 GREMLIN 404-375 *we band of 45-70ers* (Founder) Single Shot Shooters Society S.S.S.S. (Founder) | |||
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RIP the Saeco lead hardness tester says a wee bit over BHN 11 reading one of my cast 20bore roundball. _________________________________ Self appointed Colonel, DRSS | |||
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