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Very cool indeed. So is the 480 paper patched!! What do you put behind it for powder? Never mind, I followed the link and read the story! "The liberty enjoyed by the people of these states of worshiping Almighty God agreeably to their conscience, is not only among the choicest of their blessings, but also of their rights." ~George Washington - 1789 | |||
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The powder was 68 gr of Swiss 1.5 fg powder. It is, by a pretty good margin, the best blackpowder on the market. Fairly equivalent to Curtis and Harvey No. 6, according to folks that are positioned to know. When there is lead in the air, there is hope in my heart -- MWH ~1996 | |||
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No shots fired, this year Done. But, I did carry a Ruger SS with a 23.5" barrel, 375 Ruger cartridge with 270 grain TSX handloads, with a Zeiss Victory 1.5-6x42mm 1st Focal #4. The past several years I have carried a factory 20" barrel Ruger Alaskan in the 375 Ruger, McMillan Hunter stock, and 270 grain TSX with a Kahles Helia C 1.1-4x24mm with 1st focal plane 7A reticle. One year in between those, I did use a Ruger Alaskan in 416 Ruger, 350 grain TSX, with a 1.5-6x42 Kahles of the same type. I did take a day or so adjust to the 3.5" longer barrel. No complaints with it. But, the 20" barrels are handy and about 200 meters is my maximum viewing distance, usually much less than half distance. So any velocity loss is of no consequence. I have already began pondering next year's rifle/ cartridge/ scope combination. And as usual my choices are narrowed down between a Kimber Montana 325 WSM, same bullet and scope as BrettAKSCI has, or my Ruger 338 Win with 225 TSX or TTSX, or the previously mentioned 375 Ruger 20" andor 23.5" one or 416 Ruger Alaskan which is in process of having a McMillan Classic installed, with 350 gr TSX or TTSX or 416 Rem, 22" barrel in a M70 Classic stainless with a H&S Precision stock and the Barnes 350's or an unfired 26" barrel Kimber Montana in 338 Win, which I am considering reducing to a 25" barrel (no valid reason or than different) I suppose all that pretty well sums up my favorite existing rifles and cartridges, and not exclusive to moose. 8mm through 416. | |||
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I'm in an awkward frame of mind here where I don't want to argue for smaller moose cartridges, as there really isn't a benefit aside from lighter guns and recoil, neither of which are overly critical on a moose hunt, and also wanting to justify what I personally gravitate to. Interesting stuff to read a survey like this. I'm an outfitter here in NW BC and recommend anything based on the -06 case, .270 through .35 Whelen. Up until the last twenty years .30-30 and .303 were the usual moose guns here, still have and use my grandfather's Model 94 .30-30 that was his only moose gun. I don't subscribe to the minimalist philosophy, there's up to .505 in the safe and multiple .375s I carry for outfitting, but moose just plain aren't that tough and haven't lost one. Punching out the other side with the .375s hasn't achieved anything markedly different from the 7x57 for me. Then again, you certainly aren't doing any harm with a .375 or .416 if you can shoot them like an -06. My last two were 7x57 and .308 Win as mentioned, both heavy bulls, both went down within a moose length of where they took the shot. While I can't truthfully fault a medium bore moose hunter I also know the moose isn't any more dead than the ones I .308 or 7x57... But my only motivation for the light cartridges is rifle weight, then by evolution I found they kill moose just as well as my M70 .375. Starting to ramble, and that brings me back to my awkward feelings on this subject. Best summary I can offer is there is no wrong answer on a moose including and above .270, heck I'd use a stiffly bulleted .25-06. Or a .404... | |||
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My most satisfying moose kill was with my 50 2/1 Sharps. DRT and could eat right up to the bullet hole. Last moose was with my 338ME. The 200 grain "gummy bear" bullet worked perfectly and killed him at 150 yards. Jim | |||
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My one and only Canadian moose was taken with a 338WM and 225gr Accubonds. Yes I traveled half way around the world for the hunt and was very satisfied with the result. Took a 12 point bull elk as well. Cheers, Mark. | |||
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Great rifle, I love a stainless Ruger for a working gun, utterly great cartridge, and a great bull. Lots of great there, sounds like a wonderful hunt. | |||
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I would say my Browning left hand .375 H&H. That's what I shot my moose this year with. He green scored 242 5/8. If you want to see a pic he is in the Alaska forum. | |||
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Great pictures, great stories, great trophies, and great guns and calibers. This has been a super thread. Thanks all for sharing. | |||
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A chime in from Norway Although we do not have moose the size you guys have, we do a lot of moose hunting. I`m part of a team of 7 landowners who usually have license for 5 moose each year. Regarding calibers we have three .375 H&H, one 338-06 A Square, two 30-06 Sprg and one 308 W. Rifles are CZ 602, M70, Kimber, Ruger M77 and Parker Hale. Over the years moose have died just as fast hit by 150 grs cup and core in 308 W, as from Swift A-Frame in 375 H&H. If I was to do an expencive, once in a lifetime moose hunt across the pond, I would pick a rifle/Caliber/bullet combo that would see me through, come hell or high water. Here at home my Kimber 8400 in 338-06 with 225 Woodleighs is a top notch moose rifle and it would most likely go with me on such a hunt as well. My scope is a Zeiss Victory HD 1,5-6x42 with ill. reticle 4 A. Arild Iversen. | |||
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I'm a bad example as I've only shot 2 moose. My first was a big bull southwest of Port Heiden on the Alaska Peninsula. I used a .270 with 150 grain Core-lokt bullets. He died 20 yards from where I shot him. My 2nd was a Wyoming bull with a 100 grain Thunderhead out of a 65 lb. bow. He fell over dead about 150 yards from where I shot him. As I think back on that Peninsula bull, the .270 was a lousy choice. Not for the moose but because of all the brown bears we encountered on the streams. Like I said, I'm a bad example. | |||
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250 grain Nosler Partition out of .340 WEA CRF rifle @2900 fps with a Schmidt&Bender 1.5-6X42mm. Have used others but this combination for me has always anchored them in place. No tracking. Usually add a couple (humane) insurance rounds into them until they are down but realistically the extra rounds have never been needed. | |||
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Mark, Ive shot a number of elk with the 225 Accubond, its my favorite bullet in my .338..Id shoot a Brown Bear with it,and not feel undergunned..Ive recently shot some elk with the 200 gr. Accubond in my 30-06 and it works as well..Love those Accubonds and partitions. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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My moose experience is limited to 3 bulls, all Montana Shiras. Two were mine, a 40" and a 50" bull, both one shot kills with 180 grain Nosler Partitions from my .30 Gibbs. The other bull was a one shot kill by a friend of mine that I had taken hunting. He had used his 7 mm Rem mag. When he killed that bull it was the 4th highest B&C scoring Montana moose. I'm booked for a Newfoundland moose hunt this fall, and I will be carrying my 7 mm RM with 160 grain Accubonds. I have a good history with this rifle and bullets on elk, caribou and muskox. If I ever get to do a Western Canada or Alaska-Yukon moose hunt, I will use my .300 Weatherby and 180 grain Barnes TTSX bullets. Again, I have good history with this rifle on elk, and hunts in New Zealand, South Africa, and Mozambique. NRA Endowment Life Member | |||
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any of your choice will work more than perfectly. sometimes they do not know they are already dead and there is a common ground that they love to die where they should not ... swamp, deep water, tight forest name it ... | |||
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Exceptional wood! Very nice! NRA Endowment Life Member | |||
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If you're taking long shots on moose, that's one thing ... but if you're inside 200-yds, what's wrong with the compact and handy 18" Rem 600 carbine in 350 Rem.Mag? Run a low-mounted Weaver 1x-3x, and call it good. "Only accurate rifles are interesting." | |||
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That sounds good, but try finding a Rem 600 in .350RM in decent condition today. Going to be hard to do. For a compact, fast-handling 'Moose gun,' at least for shots inside 100-yds, a 16" Mini-G in .35 Whelen from Shuff's Parkerizing gives you about the same ballistics as the 350RM, but in an autoloader. All you need for the conversion is a donor Garand. The .35 Whelen cartridges can run off M1 en bloc clips, same as the 30-06. Then you'd have yourself a .35-caliber 'bush carbine' ready to rock for moose or bear. All The Best ... | |||
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I think the 350 Rem in a carbine would be dandy. I like the shorter barrel rifles for the areas that I hunt. 20-22" barrels are my favorites. I have an acquaintance that hunts with a Marlin 45-70 that is 16.5" if I recall correctly. He has killed several very large moose with this rifle, a 1.5-5x20mm Leupold, and hard cast bullets in the 450 grain range. This is his favorite combination. | |||
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The 340 WBY with a good bullet certainly covers things near or far. I still think of having one put together on a M70 stainless. My personal rule is, if they are still standing, I will still be shooting. I prefer to find out when gutting that it was not required. Rather than that feeling of maybe it was, as they disappear into the bush/timber. | |||
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.338 Win Mag | |||
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.300 Win. Mag. / .358 Win. / .35 Whelen / .375 H&H Mag. / .416 Ruger / .416 Rem. Mag. / .45-70 / .458 Win. Mag. My .416's kill 'em a lot deader than the rest. | |||
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The 416s are also a huge jump in felt-recoil from the .375H&H (all the .400-magnum masochists notwithstanding) ... ... whereas a 35 Whelen 'mini'-Garand gives you an 8-rd clip-fed autoloader that spits out 250gn .35-cal slugs as fast as you can work the trigger. Some AK residents understand the benefit here ... https://www.gulfcoastgunforum....-Mini-G-in-35-Whelen All The Best ... | |||
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"Some" might be an overstatement as it appears there is One. I have no doubt it would be effective, so is the original Garland, and according to my brother-in-law, who was stationed in Wainright in the late 1950's, an awful lot of them were checked out of the armory every hunting season. But they are heavy,bulky fighting rifles that are a pain to carry all day over rough terrain. To each their own. Anyone who claims the 30-06 is ineffective has either not tried one, or is unwittingly commenting on their own marksmanship Phil Shoemaker Alaska Master guide FAA Master pilot NRA Benefactor www.grizzlyskinsofalaska.com | |||
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That was my thought too, way too heavy to be a pleasurable hunting rifle, at least the way we hunt moose. I’ve never seen one afield, though I had a match built .308 Garand with a Krieger. Was fun, but too heavy to hunt. Also have yet to meet a moose in many that requires any sort of rate of fire, a bolt action puts one at zero disadvantage on the species that I can note. I use a single shot Ruger No.1. This all said if people enjoy them, great! Will never turn my nose up at another’s rifle selection just wouldn’t choose or recommend it myself. | |||
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After everyone's first tussle with a vindictive wounded brown bear they start imagining the "perfect" rifle. Eventually you learn that no matter how big a caliber you use, YOU STILL HAVE TO CORRECTLY PLACE YOUR SHOTS, and a heavy, bulky rifle you have lugged around all day is seldom a help. But since this thread is about moose rifles, not bear protection rifles, I recommend anything you like and shoot well with stout bullets. You can do it with anything larger than a 243 and I know many who have done it with much smaller. Anyone who claims the 30-06 is ineffective has either not tried one, or is unwittingly commenting on their own marksmanship Phil Shoemaker Alaska Master guide FAA Master pilot NRA Benefactor www.grizzlyskinsofalaska.com | |||
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Speaking of medium bore autoloaders, my .35 Whelen Remington 7400 works pretty good on Moose. Not overly heavy just under 8 lbs scoped. Surprisingly accurate with the right handload and capable of taking out multiple targets in rapid succession. Only drawback of the .35 Whelen is that it kills 'em just plain dead, not extra dead. | |||
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Enjoyed that.
Too true. I have a dream for a 6 1/2lb stainless double. Perhaps one day. Agreed on moose chamberings, it doesn’t take much, it just needs to be placed correctly. | |||
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Ive shot enough elk with a 25-35 to know,barring long shots I could kill a moose with my 25-35, I know some folks that have with a 30-30 Win..but unless I lived in the Alaskan bush and had lots of time to pick my moose and pick my shot I wouldn't use either one, On a pay hunt for 10 days Id take my .338 Win and my 30-06 for a spare..It would be fun to shoot a moose with my 25-35, but that's not in the cards. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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Actually, there are quite a few more than 'one' Mini-G in AK. Never would've figured you for a backwoods boufo, Phil, but try doing some research before you post. A rather simple amount of Google-fu, plus an email or two to Shuff's Parkerizing, might have informed you that he's sold dozens of Mini-G conversions to AK residents, including a couple of 35 Whelen Minis to Kodiak Isl. Maybe that guy in the link above is one of those?
Phil, dude, I have no idea what an 'original garland' is, ... maybe the AK state flower? Hope not. But if you meant an 'original Garand' - yeah, they're quite effective at putting down big game. Think 220gn Hornady SN pills x8, ... or x5, if you're forced to use a 5-rd 'hunting' clip.
Phil, focus: we're NOT talking about the full-size, 24" M1 battle rifle, which weighed close to 10lbs with sling attached but unloaded. The Mini-G is a true 'carbine'-length 16.1" brush weapon weighing 7.5-8lbs (unloaded, with sling). It can be chambered in .308, 30-06, or .35 Whelen (buyers choice), as Shuff uses Criterion M1 barrels for these conversions. Phil, an 'Old School' guy like you should be all over one of these for short-range bush use: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XlYJacucucQ Also, take a peek at the first picture in the link below ... Top is a Mini-G; bottom is the little .30 M1 carbine. Same length. http://forum.shuffsparkerizing...inations-on-a-Mini-G All The Best ... | |||
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AJ, I guess I am abit old fashioned, in that when I am discussing something with someone I prefer to know who they are and something about their qualifications and experiences. Since we are discussing Alaskan moose rifles and you know who I am and that I have been guiding moose hunters for 40 years, please tell me something about yourself and your qualifications in these matters Anyone who claims the 30-06 is ineffective has either not tried one, or is unwittingly commenting on their own marksmanship Phil Shoemaker Alaska Master guide FAA Master pilot NRA Benefactor www.grizzlyskinsofalaska.com | |||
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It doesn’t get much more authoritative as a source than Phil on moose and brown bear guns. | |||
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That's true, Angus, and Phil's expertise and experience were never in doubt. I'm just pointing out the inconvenient facts that expand knowledge and get folks thinking 'outside the usual box' of responses. I've killed a lot of tough hogs down here over the years and a 16" ('carbine'-size) 308 or .30-06 Garand can easily take them, same as many guys do with the popular 7.62 ARs with 16" barrels. In Alaska, a 16" Mini-G in .35 Whelen, loaded with the 250gn slugs, would be about perfect for short-range shots on moose, caribou, or bears. Take a look at that picture of the Remy 7400 in .35 Whelen that 4sixteen posted above. It's nice and trim and compact, but packs a .35-cal punch on the sort of critters you want to put down right know. A Mini-G gives you the same thing but on the platform of a battle-proven autoloader that's withstood the harshest weather conditions you can imagine, not to mention it's accurate, points quick, and - for the average dude - is reasonably easy to shoot with iron sights. Heck, even a real Alaskan like Chuke hunts with a full-size '06 Garand. Taken caribou and bear with it. His is set up with a forward rail mount and a scout scope, which of course only makes a 10-lb battle rifle heavier, but you could run the same on a Mini-G with less weight, or use the rail to mount a small red dot sight or flashlight, or whatever. Chuke's 'Hunting' M1: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=...dtYlRyE&index=2&t=3s Taking a Caribou ... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cX9dIoNU0Mc Outside the box ... That's where unconventional but effective solutions are often found. All The Best ... | |||
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Phil, At best; I would guess that AJ is a paid Social Media "Influencer" in the digital advertising world. I think that because he is essentially driving people to websites in almost all his posts over and over. And at worst, just a disrespectful troll without anything thoughtful to say. "The liberty enjoyed by the people of these states of worshiping Almighty God agreeably to their conscience, is not only among the choicest of their blessings, but also of their rights." ~George Washington - 1789 | |||
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The fact that his idol is Chuke is a clue to how much Alaskan experience he has . He may have killed a few hogs in Texas with trendy guns, but I was killing hogs with a 22 when I was 8. No matter what you choose to carry, and in Alaska you may have to carry it a long time, there comes a time when you still have to be able to shoot it correctly. Anyone who claims the 30-06 is ineffective has either not tried one, or is unwittingly commenting on their own marksmanship Phil Shoemaker Alaska Master guide FAA Master pilot NRA Benefactor www.grizzlyskinsofalaska.com | |||
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Having only been to Alaska and killed moose once, perhaps you could explain how killing big things at close distances in thick brush in Alaska is so much different than killing big things in at short range in thick places in other country. That would be more useful than simply being dismissive. When there is lead in the air, there is hope in my heart -- MWH ~1996 | |||
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Moose in the brush is not much, or at all, different from Killing big things in the brush other places. I can't speak for others but an 8Lb semi Garand with a 16 barrel would not be a fast handling, great pointing rifle I don't think. Also there might be a question of taking a near perfect battle rifle platform, changing it to 35 Whelen and getting 100% function. I did click on one of the links above and found the below "rest of the story." I love the 35 Whelen and think it would be a terrific Moose cartridge. I just would not choose a Garand to run it in. If I wanted super fast repeat shots, I would find a Remington 7600 in that bore or simply rebore a good 760 in 30-06. Some might like the 1895 Lever in 30-06 with similar work done to it. Both would likely be far more reliable than a shortened and up-bored Garand. A 760 rebored to 35 Whelen with a 16" barrel would weigh about 6.5 pounds I would guess and point like a good shotgun. AMMUNITION Tim informed me that the rifle was adjusted to shoot M80 147gr ball ammunition. I had no interest in shooting that. Anyway, I didn't have any on hand. However, I did have a few boxes of M118 and M118 LR, 173gr military Match ammo. So, with great hopes I took that out to give the rifle a go. The results were dismal. It quickly became apparent that the ammunition, both versions, wasn't getting enough velocity in the 16" barrel of the mini-G to rotate quickly enough to stabilize. I was seeing big groups and lots of key holing. To make matters worse, no matter how I adjusted the gas plug I couldn't get the rifle to function reliably. I think the cartridges and loads were too high and beyond the capabilities of the system to properly conform to. M118 /M118 LR earned a big NO-GO in my rifle. I decided to purchase some Fiocchi ammunition topped with 165gr Sierra Gameking bullets. The bullets are shorter than the 173gr M118 bullets. That, I guessed, coupled with the additional velocity gained by shooting the lighter bullet might generate enough spin to stabilize the bullets. The 165gr load is also closer to the M80 load and I expected it to improve feeding and functioning. I tried the ammo at the range and things couldn't have worked out better. It took some rounds to dial in the gas plug but it now performs reliably. One bug added benefit to this Fiocchi load is the excellent for hunting use Gameking bullet. "The liberty enjoyed by the people of these states of worshiping Almighty God agreeably to their conscience, is not only among the choicest of their blessings, but also of their rights." ~George Washington - 1789 | |||
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I’ve never met a moose that required a rate of fire above a Ruger No.1s, in many, including in obscenely thick bush. If a guy likes a short battle rifle for hunting all the more power to him, I think the only thing Phil has taken issue to is the assertion they’re “catching on” and a perfect fit for Alaskan moose hunting. If a guy wants to post a perfect moose rifle, all it takes is how this thread started; a pic of the rifle and the bull. Many different rifles can be perfect moose rifles, to many different people. If it works perfectly for you, that’s all that counts. But things get murkier and off course when somewhat tenuous claims are made. Just my small change of course and worth the bandwidth it’s printed on. | |||
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Well, at least you got that point right.
Actually it is. But since you aren't speaking from experience, you're speculating. Frankly, if you're gonna hate on something, at least speak from personal knowledge and be accurate about it.
Not at all with Shuff's Mini-Gs. Some early commercial 18" 'Tanker' M1s, in .30-06 and .308, had functioning problems, but even Fulton Armory and the CMP overcame those by using a stronger op rod spring, modified follower rod and, on the 308 Tankers, by enlarging the barrel's gas port hole.
Yeah, well the 'rest of the story' you quoted pertains to M80 ball ammo (7.62/.308) not .35 Whelen ammo, and as the last paragraph indicates (see below) the user got his Mini-G dailed-in by adjusting the Schuster gas plug, which is exactly how it's supposed to work.
Certainly your choice ...
Those Remy guns are indeed handy, but they've also had well-reported reliability issues. And as 'repeaters' for firing multiple shots at moving game, they are significantly less fast than a Mini-G in any of the same three calibers for two reasons: first, the Mini is a semi-auto and thus can absorb the effects of recoil, and second, all three Mini-G chamberings can run (if the buyer requests it) a muzzle brake, which further reduces felt-recoil significantly, while boosting the rapidity of accurate follow-up shots.
Geez, where do I start? ... Shuff's 308/30-06/.35Whelen Mini-Gs aren't 'up-bored' anythings. He uses properly chambered Criterion barrels in these conversions. The key to the Mini-G's functioning in all calibers is the use of Schuster Mfg.'s adjustable gas plug which allows you to 'tune' the gas system and the op-rod's cycling rate to the ammo you're using, which can vary with the bullet-weight and energy level. But once you've dailed it in to cycle and eject cartridges reliably, you're good to go. Also, if you handload, turning the adjustable screw in the plug a 1/4-turn either way will shrink or open groups - just as Schuster Mfg. states on its website.
All The Best ... | |||
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