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Has anyone ever heard of a .404 EXP?

I have an unmolested FN commercial barreled action that has .404 EXP marked on the barrel.

Cerrosafe is on the way but I thought I would see if anyone ever heard of it? Looks like it has a .410 bore (6-groove barrel), so I'm pretty sure it isn't a Jeffrey.
 
Posts: 4156 | Location: Hell | Registered: 22 August 2010Reply With Quote
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The 404 B-J Express is the only 404 wildcat that comes to mind. The parent cartridge is the 375 H&H.
 
Posts: 2650 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 15 February 2003Reply With Quote
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It does have a belted magnum chamber so you may be right!

I haven't been able to find much information on a 404 BJ Express on the internet.

It will be interesting to figure out what to do with it.
 
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I’ll post a drawing and any information I have when I get home this afternoon.
 
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That would be great! In the mean time, some photos (cleaned up with a green scotch brite):







You can see where is was either marred in a vice or a bad action wrench...
 
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It was a Barnes & Johnson creation. That's all I know about it.

Max. case capacity H2O is 100.83 grains according to QL.



 
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quote:
Originally posted by MickinColo:
It was a Barnes & Johnson creation. That's all I know about it.

Max. case capacity H2O is 100.83 grains according to QL.



The mag box on this rifle is 3.400" so it may be something else?
 
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I had case dimensions and all the information from the parent cartridge but no COAL when making the drawing so I picked that, COAL is a random number in this drawing. The COAL can be longer or shorter depending on your needs.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by MickinColo:
I had case dimensions and all the information from the parent cartridge but no COAL when making the drawing so I picked that, COAL is a random number in this drawing. The COAL can be longer or shorter depending on your needs.


I guess I have to be patient and wait for the Cerrosafe to show up! Smiler but it would be nice if it turns out to be something I can use, and maybe even find dies for???
 
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It's all fun! It'll be interesting to see what the chamber really is. Smiler
 
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quote:
Originally posted by MickinColo:
It's all fun! It'll be interesting to see what the chamber really is. Smiler


I've always wanted something that thumps! Smiler
 
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If I understand, Swift makes a .410" 400g A-Frame bullet that would work if it turns out to be a 404 BJ EXP.

I wonder where the heck to get load data for that? I wouldn't even know where to start or end.
 
Posts: 4156 | Location: Hell | Registered: 22 August 2010Reply With Quote
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You need to make a casting of the chamber to see what it is. Don't get to far ahead of yourself on this one. It may be a jewel, but it may be a bust. Wink
 
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quote:
Originally posted by MickinColo:
You need to make a casting of the chamber to see what it is. Don't get to far ahead of yourself on this one. It may be a jewel, but it may be a bust. Wink


Thanks Mick - Cerrosafe is on the way!
 
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There are other .404s in N.A. on the .375 H&H parent case. Mine is a 404 Barnes Supreme which I have owned since 1972.

It is basically identical to the later, factory introduced, .416 Remington, except it uses .411" bullets instead of .416" diameter ones. I long ago quit making my cases from .375 H&H as it is much easier just to run the .416 Rem cases into the .404 Barnes
Sizing die. They come out the right length,right dimensions everywhere, and I use the same 400 gr. weight bullets I always have (Barnes originals). I

I think Remington just used the already existing .404 Barnes Supreme and necked it up to .416 so they could have a proprietary .404 cartridge to claim as their own.

The only bad thing I can say about it is if you don't shoot it or even bigger stuff regularly, it will kill on both ends in a light bolt action.


My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still.

 
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quote:
Originally posted by Alberta Canuck:
There are other .404s in N.A. on the .375 H&H parent case. Mine is a 404 Barnes Supreme which I have owned since 1972.

It is basically identical to the later, factory introduced, .416 Remington, except it uses .411" bullets instead of .416" diameter ones. I long ago quite making my cases from .375 H&H as it is much easier just to run the .416 Rem cases into the .404 Barnes
Sizing die. They come out the right length, and I use the same 400 gr. weight bullets.

The only bad thing I n say about it is if your don't shoot it or even bigger stuff regularly, it will kill on both ends in a light bolt action.


Well I am just going to have to be patient (not one of my virtues) and wait for the Cerrosafe to show up! Either way, I have a feeling that reloading dies are going to be a real trick!

I dykem'd a 300 WIN MAG dummy round I had laying around and can see and measure where the shoulder contacts the chamber - the bolt will not close on the 300 WIN MAG.

Anyway, I am as anxious as a teenager gettin' his first, well, you know Smiler
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Alberta Canuck:
There are other .404s in N.A. on the .375 H&H parent case. Mine is a 404 Barnes Supreme which I have owned since 1972. ***


Out of curiosity, AC, was that a Fred Barnes or a Frank Barnes design? beer roger


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According to the folks at Barnes Bullets, the F.N. Barnes stamped on my barrel stands for Fred Barnes, the originator of Barnes bullets!

I still haven't gotten the Cerrosafe (tomorrow), but they are fairly certain it is a 404 B-J Express (a .411 bullet in a 375 H&H case shortened to fit in standard length actions, which would explain the factory 3.400 magazine box!).

Now, to find some .411 diameter bullets...
 
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There are a number of bullet makers that make .411 bullets. Smiler All you have to do is find some. Wink
 
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I couldn't help it. I had to know what it looked like. Well, at least my best guess based on information I've been able to gather so far...



Pretty neat lookin'!
 
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The results of my Cerrosafe experiment! Remember, I do NOT have an optical comparator, just a Starrett .0001 Mic, a digital caliper, and a 10X optivisor



Something tells me this chamber was never "finish reamed"???

I don't know what to make of it but at least it seems like I should be able to ream it to a .404 B-J Express though that might be a trick since the belted part is already reamed and that is where you head space it...
 
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Sort of like a .416 Taylor only shorter.
.416 groove and .408 bore is universal for the .416.


Do you have the bore diameter there at 0.4133" or do you mean groove diameter/bullet diameter?

And the other has a 0.4420" "bore"?

"Odd Caliber" is right.

The Miroku, Japan-made Winchester .405 WCF rifles of late have barrels with .4133" groove diameter according to Mike Brady's slug measurements, which I trust. Wink
 
Posts: 28032 | Location: KY | Registered: 09 December 2001Reply With Quote
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The bore diameter is the bore (larger diameter) of my rifle (the smaller diameter looks to be about .405/.406). The other dimensions are chamber dimensions.

This was the first time I ever did a chamber cast:

◾my eyes are old
◾I'm not sure how to perfectly measure the shoulder of a chamber-cast without an optical comparator
◾I don't have an optical comparator, but I wish I did!

Therefore, information is subject to change.


While I did get a surprisingly good cast for a first time event, I think I can do better around the base of the chamber and will do so tomorrow, maybe, and then double check all my dims as best I can and go from there.

Whatever it is will be fun to own and shoot!
 
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quote:
Originally posted by RIP:
Sort of like a .416 Taylor only shorter.


Surprisingly very similar to the .416 Taylor, but with a slightly smaller diameter bullet?

Not too shabby...
 
Posts: 4156 | Location: Hell | Registered: 22 August 2010Reply With Quote
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please check the twist... .513 is aweful close to a 9,3x64 or a belt turned off HH case


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffeosso:
please check the twist... .513 is aweful close to a 9,3x64 or a belt turned off HH case


16" Twist - Belted chamber
 
Posts: 4156 | Location: Hell | Registered: 22 August 2010Reply With Quote
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You need to slug the barrel with soft lead slug to get a better measure on the barrel groove, and a check on your chamber casting.

Assuming the chamber casting is good, are you sure you are not measuring some throat, parallel-sided free-bore or leade?

Your barrel might truly be .410 or .411 or .412 or .413, GROOVE diameter, all common:

quote:
Originally posted by Quick Karl:
The bore diameter is the bore (larger diameter) of my rifle (the smaller diameter looks to be about .405/.406). The other dimensions are chamber dimensions.

Quick Karl,
So, you need to re-label the drawing to show GROOVE diameter, not bore diameter.
Ideally, groove diameter equals bullet diameter.
By your chamber casting your barrel GROOVE diameter is about .413"
and the smaller diameter of the rifling you peg at about .405/406": That is the BORE diameter, the diameter between the lands.

That is great news. You have a cartridge more powerful than a 400 Whelen.
It can produce > 2150 fps with 400-grain bullets, same as a 450/400 Nitro Express 3".
The 400 Whelen will easily do 2200 fps with 400-grainers, and your cartridge will do much more.
Adequate for any game animal on the planet.
Squirrel bullets available too.

North Fork actually makes .413"-caliber bullets to fit those new Winchester/Miroku .405 Winchester rifles.
GSC now made in Michigan will make them too.
CEB could do it too.
Get yourseld a mould and make your own too.

The commonly available .411-caliber bullets from Hornady, Barnes, and Woodleigh,
for 405 WCF and 400 Whelen, might work.
The other common caliber is .410, might be too small,
but worth a try also. That includes 450/400 NE and .41 RemMag handgun bullets for plinking.
Bullets bump up in firing, and if the rifling grabs it enough and the twist is adequate, they will work.
Certainly safe to try all those bullets.


While I did get a surprisingly good cast for a first time event, I think I can do better around the base of the chamber and will do so tomorrow, maybe, and then double check all my dims as best I can and go from there.

Yep, I'd say you did great on the casting, and no need to do more. The base is obviously a .375 H&H belted type.
Refining the shoulder, neck, and throat specs will be the ultimate details.
I would call or email the various reamer makers and reloading die makers that were around back then,
and see if any of them have a reamer drawing or reloading die listing.


Whatever it is will be fun to own and shoot!


Yep,
I would see if I could load a.338 WinMag cartridge into the chamber and close the bolt.
If I could, then I would simply fire form those to your wildcat.
Use a full power load and let the bullet rattle down the barrel.
If the shoulder allows entry of the case, it will headspace on the belt,
and the case overall length will shorten as the neck and shoulder blow out to fit your chamber.

I routinely fire-form .338 Lapua Magnum to .500/.338 Lapua Magnum Improved, and have had one minor case neck split in 200
with Lapua-made brass. More with cheaper brass.
Metallurgical flaws are possible even with best brass.
If you have any case neck splits with new .338 WinMag brass, I would be surprised.
Annealing case neck before fire-forming would help, especially if using old, previously fired brass.

The case length of this wildcat might possibly be based on the result of fire-forming .338 WinMag in the .404 Exp.F.N.Barnes.
Just a guess.

After fire-forming:
Trim to square and uniform the case mouth, and establish maximum brass length of fire-formed brass.
If any of the brass extends into the throat, remove that in trimming.
Shorten the brass to 0.010" short of the start of chamber case mouth chamfer.
That is the end of the chamber and the start of the throat.
Max brass length should be 0.010" to 0.015" short of minimum chamber length.

You might use make-do dies from whatever pistol or rifle dies that are helpful with neck area.
The opening in the bottom of some handgun or small rifle die might be right for partial neck sizing,
and you can use a neck expander ball of proper diameter in a larger rifle die or universal decapper,
or neck expanding die.
That is why self-taught wildcatters have so many reloading dies lying around at home,
for guns/cartridges they do not even own, and the gross that they do.

If you have the proper neck sizing dies, .338 >>> .375 then .375 >>> .410 (two steps):
Neck up the .338 WinMag brass to .410-caliber and trim to establish experimental length based on chamber casting.
Load some 200-grain .41-caliber handgun bullets to normal estimated pressure and fire-form.
Establish final trim-to length.

Send three pieces of your best-finished, fire-formed brass to Hornady Custom Dies
with any supplementary info and dimensions you have or they want.
That is if you can't find the .404 Express (ala Fred N. Barnes) die set on a shelf somewhere.
Best to pick one brass make and stick with it.
I would vote Winchester or Hornady brand, and hope those might be interchangeable in the final neck dimensions,
neck wall thickness and OD with loaded bullet.

You can work out a Cream O' Wheat & Pistol Powder (COWPP) load for bulk fire-forming,
or to start with if you don't like smaller caliber bullets rattling down your bore.
COWPP: Cow Pee Pee, I just thought of that. holycow

Fire-forming loads using the .41 RM pistol bullets also can be nice. Plink while you make brass. tu2

.338 Winchester Magnum from Wikipedia,
good fire-forming candidate:

 
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Appears likely .338 WinMag brass was used. They may have just used expander buttons to upsize the neck diameter to accept 405 Winchester diameter bullets. New brass is always slightly shorter than the case length specification. Expand the neck diameter to accept a .411 bullet diameter and the overall case length is going to shorten even more.


Jim coffee
"Life's hard; it's harder if you're stupid"
John Wayne
 
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Jim,
Thanks for summarizing my ramblings.
Very Hemingway of you. tu2
 
Posts: 28032 | Location: KY | Registered: 09 December 2001Reply With Quote
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So if I want brass that is the proper length for my chamber, would it be better to start with some 375 H&H brass, shorten it, neck it up, and fire form it?
 
Posts: 4156 | Location: Hell | Registered: 22 August 2010Reply With Quote
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That will work too.
But you will have to experiment with how short to trim it before you neck it up.
You will be blowing out the greater case body taper of the .375 H&H, and that will lead to greater shortening on firing.

Wikipedia cartridge drawing for the .375 H&H:



2.5" is very near Neck-1, shoulder-neck juncture.
I would start by cutting it down to that line, neck up, see how long it is,
see if it will chamber with a .410cal/200-grain handgun bullet loaded,
and tweak it until you can fire one and see what length that case ends up with.
This process might involve finding a "dreaded doughnut" inside the case neck requiring inside-neck reaming.
Outside-neck turning is another issue that might come up, involving brass and reloading die fitting to your chamber.
That would be about concentricity and neck tension issues.
You might get lucky and have no neck reaming or turning issues.
Always a good thing. tu2


If you had proper reloading dies, definitely the way to go would be to simply:

1. Get basic cylindrical .375 H&H brass that Hornady sells, has only an "H" on the headstamp.

2. Cut the basic brass down to 2.5" then

3. Neck it down in FL sizer die, and

4. Trim to proper length.

5. Anneal necks before loading and shooting.



If it were me undertaking this bit of fun,
I would make a few pieces of brass using .338 Winchester Magnum brass.
Then get reloading dies made.
Then use .375 H&H basic cylindrical brass to make the regular ammo supply.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by RIP:
If it were me undertaking this bit of fun,
I would make a few pieces of brass using .338 Winchester Magnum brass.
Then get reloading dies made.
Then use .375 H&H basic cylindrical brass to make the regular ammo supply.


That is my plan!
 
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Well, after a crash course in obscure wildcat cartridges and all that goes into making brass, finding bullets, and having dies made, I believe it makes more sense to just send it to Douglas and have it re-barrel it in 416 Taylor, which seems to be about the most nastiness one can squeeze into a 98-action without disfiguring it!
 
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I screwed up and measured my chamber cast incorrectly.

Here is the corrected drawing:


A little bit closer to the notorious .404 B-J Express...
 
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Here is a photo for comparison:

 
Posts: 4156 | Location: Hell | Registered: 22 August 2010Reply With Quote
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So you need to leave the .375 H&H brass a bit longer to fire form it.
It is going to shorten on fire forming.
I don't know by how much.
.338 WinMag brass is going to be too short for use in fireforming.

You might simply fire a full-power loaded .375 H&H cartridge in the wildcat chamber,
but you will have to size the .375 H&H shoulder down enough to fit in the neck area of the wildcat chamber.
The .375 bullet will rattle down the bore, no harm.
The case will expand enough to do another chamber casting in brass.
Then just trim it down to the proper length.
Maximum brass length should be 0.010" to 0.015" shorter than chamber length to the start of chamber neck chamfer.
The chamfer is the 45-degree angle leading into the parallel-sided free-bore you seem to have sufficient amount of.

You will probably have a "dreaded doughnut" in the neck area of the fireformed wildcat brass,
due to converting thick shoulder brass into neck brass,
don't know that until you try.
It is an easy thing to inside ream the necks to eliminate the "DD" if there.

You could try 2.580" max brass length, trim to 2.570" minimum brass length,
if you have not already sent the rifle out to be rebarreled to .416 Taylor or .416 Ruger. faint

Eventually you will find how long to trim the .375 H&H brass to make a nice case with COW & PP loads
or use .410 caliber pistol bullets to plink with while fire-forming.
 
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RIP,

I haven't sent the rifle anywhere yet, and I am glad I didn't. A gentleman on another forum named carpooler made the brass in the photo for me. When his brass arrived I laid it next to my chamber cast and immediately saw the results of my incorrect chamber cast measurements.

I am wondering about firing a 375 in my chamber to make brass - if I try this, how will I know if I have created a doughnut or not?

If it is safe to do it might be the best way for me, a novice wildcatter, to get some brass for this rifle.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Quick Karl:
RIP,

I haven't sent the rifle anywhere yet, and I am glad I didn't. A gentleman on another forum named carpooler made the brass in the photo for me. When his brass arrived I laid it next to my chamber cast and immediately saw the results of my incorrect chamber cast measurements.

I am wondering about firing a 375 in my chamber to make brass - if I try this, how will I know if I have created a doughnut or not?


You may not have a problem. If you do you may be able to see it inside the neck or feel it with a straightened piece of paperclip wire,
or when you seat a .411 bullet in the neck, the internal doughnut will become an external doughnut that might interfere with fit of loaded cartridge in chamber.
I get one when I neck up .338 Lapua Magnum to .375 "Tornado" wildcat.
However, when I fire-form a .338 Lapua Magnum to .500/.338 Lapua Magnum (aka 12.7x68mm Magnum) I get no problems. In that exercise,
I just let a full power .338 Lapua rattle the bullet down the .500-caliber barrel with no ill effects.
After fire-forming, just trim, load, and shoot.

Another case is the 35 Whelen fire-formed to 400 Whelen, letting the bullet rattle down the barrel.
No dreaded donut. After fire-froming, just trim, load, and shoot.

Trimming is needed to square and unifom case mouth, even if brass ends up too short.

I am guessing the .375 H&H with all its taper and minimal shoulder will not cause a dreaded doughnut.
Any doughnut material will end up near the case mouth of the shorter wildcat, and trimming and chamfering will take care of it.
It will shorten considerably in blowing out that taper however.
I guesstimate you should shorten the .375 H&H brass to about 2.680" long if you want it to be 2.580" long after fire forming. Just guessing.
35 Whelen blown out to 400 whelen shortens about 0.050".

Take a regular .375 H&H piece of new brass, trim it down to 2.680" long, size the shoulder down a few thou, so it will fit into the neck of the wildcat chamber.
Then seat a 235-grain .375 bullet in the short remnant of the neck, after priming and putting in a starting powder charge for .375 H&H.
Load cartridge into rifle.
Let bullet rattle out the barrel in a safe direction to backstop.
See what the brass looks like.

Make three pieces of brass to satisfaction and then get reloading dies made from the fire-formed brass.
Hornady Custom Dies.
Very good, and less than $200 including shipping, etc.

Using proper reloading dies and .375 H&H basic cylindrical brass will be much easier.

You could also figure out a Cream O' Wheat and Pistol Powder load,
capped with soap, wax, or hard bullet lube plug in the case mouth instead of a bullet for fire-forming,
if you don't like wasting bullets for fire-froming.



If it is safe to do it might be the best way for me, a novice wildcatter, to get some brass for this rifle.
 
Posts: 28032 | Location: KY | Registered: 09 December 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by RIP:
quote:
Originally posted by Quick Karl:
RIP,

I haven't sent the rifle anywhere yet, and I am glad I didn't. A gentleman on another forum named carpooler made the brass in the photo for me. When his brass arrived I laid it next to my chamber cast and immediately saw the results of my incorrect chamber cast measurements.

I am wondering about firing a 375 in my chamber to make brass - if I try this, how will I know if I have created a doughnut or not?


You may not have a problem. If you do you may be able to see it inside the neck or feel it with a straightened piece of paperclip wire,
or when you seat a .411 bullet in the neck, the internal doughnut will become an external doughnut that might interfere with fit of loaded cartridge in chamber.
I get one when I neck up .338 Lapua Magnum to .375 "Tornado" wildcat.
However, when I fire-form a .338 Lapua Magnum to .500/.338 Lapua Magnum (aka 12.7x68mm Magnum) I get no problems. In that exercise,
I just let a full power .338 Lapua rattle the bullet down the .500-caliber barrel with no ill effects.
After fire-forming, just trim, load, and shoot.

Another case is the 35 Whelen fire-formed to 400 Whelen, letting the bullet rattle down the barrel.
No dreaded donut. After fire-froming, just trim, load, and shoot.

Trimming is needed to square and unifom case mouth, even if brass ends up too short.

I am guessing the .375 H&H with all its taper and minimal shoulder will not cause a dreaded doughnut.
Any doughnut material will end up near the case mouth of the shorter wildcat, and trimming and chamfering will take care of it.
It will shorten considerably in blowing out that taper however.
I would guess you should Shorten the brass to about 2.680" long if you want it to be 2.580" long after fire forming. Just guessing.
35 Whelen blown out to 400 whelen shortens about 0.050".

Take a regular .375 H&H piece of new brass, trim it down to 2.680" long, size the shoulder down a few thou, so it will fit into the neck of the wildcat chamber.
Then seat a 235-grain .375 bullet in the remnant of the neck, after priming and putting in a starting powder charge for .375 H&H.
Load cartridge into rifle.
Let bullet rattle out the barrel in a safe direction to backstop.
See what the brass looks like.

Make three pieces of brass to satisfaction and then get reloading dies made from the fire-formed brass.
Hornady Custom Dies.

Using proper reloading dies and .375 H&H basic cylindrical brass will be much easier.

You could also figure out a Cream O' Wheat and Pistol Powder load,
capped with soap, wax, or hard bullet lube plug in the case mouth instead of a bullet for fire-forming,
if you don't like wasting bullets for fire-froming.



If it is safe to do it might be the best way for me, a novice wildcatter, to get some brass for this rifle.


I almost thought you meant I should fire FACTORY 375 ammunition in my rifle??? I guess I am glad I didn't try that before reading your instructions to shorten and load my own 375 load, which I am not set up to do in terms of dies and all that.

Something is telling me this is way more trouble than it is worth.
 
Posts: 4156 | Location: Hell | Registered: 22 August 2010Reply With Quote
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Hey!, I was still typing when you quoted me! Big Grin

You could do that too.
Size the shoulder of the .375 H&H cartridge down enough to fit inside the neck of the wildcat chamber,
then just pull the trigger.

You will have to do the trimming before or after you fire the case.
Easier to shorten before with a .375 pilot,
then finish trim after with the .41/.410/.411 "400" pilot.

Just refining the technique.

You either love this stuff or you don't. Wink
 
Posts: 28032 | Location: KY | Registered: 09 December 2001Reply With Quote
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