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Zim (Omay North) Elephant Hunt - MANY Pictures
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HUNT SUMMARY

Trip Dates:
March 16 – March 27, 2009

Location of Hunt:
Omay North Communal Hunting Concession, Zimbabwe

Animals Shot:
(2) Elephant Bulls (One Export + One Non-Export)
Tuskless Elephant Cow

Animals Shot by Others in My Group:
(2) Non-Export Elephant Bulls
Tusked Elephant Cow
Waterbuck
Bushbuck

Other Game Seen:
Buffalo, Hippo, Crocodile, Lion (female), Waterbuck, Bushbuck, Impala, Zebra, Kudu, Warthog, Monkey, Baboon, Jackal, Mongoose, African Wild Cat, Lots of Leopard Tracks

Outfitter Information:
Martin Pieters Safaris
Email: martin@bulembisafaris.co.zw
Landline Phone (from US): 011-263-9-67792 or 011-263-9-245783
Website: http://www.martinpieterssafaris.com/

Travel Summary:
Airlines: South African Airlines
Itinerary: Dulles (Wash DC) to Johannesburg to Harare


EQUIPMENT SUMMARY
Rifle: Ruger Mark II in .458 Lott
Ammunition: Hand-loaded .500gr Woodleigh Solids (83.5grns IMR 4320, ~2220fps)
Boots: Lowa Renegade GTX
Shorts: Columbia Sportswear Cascade Creek Water Shorts
Shirts: Under Armor Tactical Approach Shortsleeve
Compact Camera: Olympus Stylus 750
Satellite Phone: Iridium (rented from Outfitter Satellite)


DISCLAIMER
Please consider when reading this report that I am an optimist by nature, have previous hunting experience in Africa (this was my 12th trip), and that my experiences and perspectives may very likely differ from yours. Also note that various aspects of this trip are subject to change from the time of this writing. I am not a booking agent or involved in the hunting industry, nor do I receive any financial benefit from the writing of this report. I do so as I enjoy sharing my adventures with other hunters in the hope that they can benefit from my experiences. I hope you enjoy it, and please feel free to respond or email/pm me with any questions or comments. Thanks in advance for your time!


BACKGROUND
My father-in law Bob, who posts on AR as “rslus”, has been talking about an elephant hunt for several years. He’s been to Africa multiple times, including twice to Tanzania, Zimbabwe South Africa and Namibia. In these trips Bob has shot leopard, buffalo, and quite a bit of plainsgame. Along with friend Dylan, he decided that this was the year for elephant, and of course I was only to happy to oblige! We focused on an early-season hunt, which would allow Bob to take a meat bull, and Dylan a management elephant at night in the fields. I too was after my first non-export bull, having yet to experience this type of hunt, and the distribution of meat to the locals that follows. Note that during the report I may refer to these as “PAC” (problem) elephant, but technically on the Zimbabwe TR2 license they are non-export “meat bulls” or "Management bulls". A tuskless in the jesse, and the opportunity to take a trophy bull if budget permitted, were also high on my list.

I looked at several options, and decided on booking with Martin Pieters in the Omay North concession. I was impressed with Martin’s professionalism, attention to detail, enthusiasm, and willingness to answer all my questions as the guys evaluated other options including croc, hippo and plainsgame. All references – including that of Mr. Don Heath - checked out, and dealing with Mart has proved to be a pleasure.

A boundary with the Matusadona National Park meant that there would be elephant coming out of the Park to raid the early season crops, offering the possibility of a big bull in that 50lb+ category. In addition, Omay North is along the shores of Lake Kariba and between the Sengwa and Ume Rivers. In my experience hunting along the Zambezi, Luangwa, Kwando and Faro Rivers, there is nothing quite like a camp and hunting concession bordering a river. It adds so much to a safari - the sounds of hippo at night, views of beautiful sunrises and sunsets, opportunities to view and hunt plainsgame, and of course fishing.

As with all early and many last-season hunts, the variable would be the rains. Two years ago I hunted Zim in March, and encountered very dry conditions. There was little elephant movement, and due to failing crops, no PAC elephant. Last year the rains were good, which meant that those hunting elephant in March-April encountered challenging conditions due to thick bush and abundant water that disperses the game throughout the concession.

Of note is that when the bush is thick, one cannot expect to see tons of game, as unlike later in the year when the animals are concentrated around the water, they may be there and when walking you will see fresh tracks, but seeing them as you drive or hike is another matter. February-March-April is not the time to hunt buffalo and plainsgame, but for elephant hunting it can be good…including tuskless in the jesse which can be a real hoot for those hunters (and PH’s!) with the appetite. And, it is the only time of the year for true problem animal hunts.

Mart and I had many conversations in the months and weeks that preceded the hunt, and as the dates approached we knew it was going to be a wet one that would limit our mobility somewhat. However, I found the prospects of a “wet season elephant hunt” exciting and something that after 11 safaris I had yet to experience.


TRAINING & CONDITIONING
I enjoy hunting early in the year, it is a good time of the year for me to get away, and the pending trip provides me with a strong incentive to workout and watch my diet over the long winter months. However, the challenge is that in a cold and snowy winter, such as the one we just experienced, it is difficult to exercise out of doors unless one is into the snow sports, which I am not. While the Stairmaster may be good for overall conditioning, it is no replacement for actually walking with the boots you plan to wear, over mixed terrain and hills (both up and down).

As is usual and per my other hunt reports, I worked out in my basement weight room 5-6 times a week, and hiked with a weighted backpack typically 2-3 times a week including hills, for anywhere from 1-3hrs noting that long hours at the office coupled with the short days of winter can make getting out challenging. A nagging hip caused me some concern during training, but it proved to be little hindrance during the hunt, although after hours on the trail it did get a bit gimpy. I suppose I need to breakdown and have this checked out.


TRAVEL TO OMAY
From Pennsylvania, we drove to Dulles International Airport, and flew South African Airways direct to Johannesburg, checking our luggage all the way thru. After about a 4hr layover, we made the 1.5hr flight to Harare arriving around 9:30pm. Things went smoothly with Customs, all bags arrived, and we had no problem clearing our rifles and ammunition. As is typical, the serial numbers were checked against the previously completed Temporary Firearms Permits, but our ammunition was not inspected.

Of note is that the three of us had our ammo in factory or similarly designed boxes, within a lockable plastic case (mine is a lockable case from Cabela’s, and although I didn’t have it locked, I did have the key attached just in case). Apparently South Africa began screening ammunition this year, and is removing ammo boxes packed loosely in the checked luggage, and forwarding it in a plastic bag. Another hunter we encountered on the way back said this happened to him, and I didn’t know what he meant until I returned home and read an email from SOAZ. Just another reason to be an active member of AR, as this is something that has been discussed multiple times before on the various forums.

Martin’s office had arranged for us to overnight at a B&B in a nice section of Harare (Ballentyne Park), run by Shirley Harrison and her husband. We were met by their driver in a new Mitsubishi Pajero and driven the ~30 minutes to the House Harrison. Accommodations were very nice, and just $100 for a single, less if sharing a double. For an additional $20/person we had them prepare a meal of steak w/the trimmings. There was no charge other then a tip to the driver for airport pick-up and return. I would suggest that anybody overnighting in Harare considers the House Harrison, Shirley is great to work with and it felt very “homey”. Also, the cost is considerably less then other options that I looked at, such as Gecko and York lodges ($160-$190/person plus airport transfer and food if desired/required).

Shirley Harrison: dharrison@zol.co.zw

Shirley Harrison in front of the House Harrison B&B in Harare:


The next morning we were met for an early Sunday breakfast by Buzz Charlton and the young lady responsible for maintaining his excellent website, Charmain. It was nice to catch-up, and as is customary we had brought along some goodies for Khumbu and Lucia, the children of Buzz’s right-hand man Royal and housekeeper Letwin. As space in my single suitcase was limited, and given the availability of goods in Harare since the Dollarization, my kids and I gave the children money to be used for school supplies and clothes as Letwin sees fit. Upon returning home, Royal met me in the airport, with cards and letters written by the children, which was very nice. I always wish I could do more.

We drove to the small airport outside of town, I with Buzz, and Bob and Dylan in the Pajero. We were delayed by about an hour as the airport was without power and the charter pilot was unable to refuel and had to fly over to the main airport and come back. Martin’s office coordinated the charter, using Graham Hingston’s company. Price for the plane round-trip to Omay North was $2600, or $860/person for the three of us and actually LESS then had been quoted at the end of last year. The flight was approximately 1.5hrs, and due to some stormy weather, I managed to get a bit airsick but fortunately didn’t chuck. From the air, it was clear that there was water everywhere, and when we landed it was raining. A sign of things to come! We were met by our eager PH’s, and made the hour or so drive to what would be home for the next 13 days.

Buzz helping us get thru the firearms check prior to the charter:


Loading up the Cessna 206 with pilot Matthew:


View of a “green Zimbabwe” from the air:


Touch-down at the Tiger Bay airstrip:




CAMPS
We stayed at the Ume River Camp, located along the eastern boarder of the concession adjacent to the Matusadona National Park. This is Martin’s main camp, and a good location for elephant hunting especially early season as the elephant come out of the park to raid the fields. The camp was built by the previous operator, Butch Walker, in 1992, overlooking the Ume River and Lake Kariba inlet. While somewhat dated, it is a pleasant camp with good shade, nice breezes, and great views. My chalet was high on the point and open, and is the one to request if possible. There is a nice dining area with an adjacent outdoor concrete fire pit, although the trees that provide shade during the day tend to block the stars at night. Martin is in the process of updating the camp, and recently purchased a large $11,000 generator that provides lots of power when running yet is very quiet.

View of the Ume River Camp from the water:


Overlooking my open-air chalet:


The dining area:


Sundown as viewed thru my chalet’s window:



We visited the Mackenzies Point Camp during the hunt, which is on the western side of the concession overlooking the Sengwa River basin where it dumps into Lake Kariba. This camp was built more recently by HHK and feels slightly fresher, although given its location high on a point it was quite hot when we were there during mid-day, with little breeze coming off the water. Given the location in close proximity to the floodplain, there is lots of game especially later in the season, and this camp would be well-suited to a hunter looking for a mixed-bag hunt with perhaps an observer or family along. Martin is working on a new initiative which if it comes thru, could result in the relocation of this camp in a few years time.

Spectacular view from the Mackenzies Point Camp:


Guest quarters:



There is also a spike camp in the mountains that is used for specific hunts where the hunter wishes to hunt on foot for game such as buffalo, leopard, sable and kudu. We did not visit this area during our hunt, although looking at the mountain ranges off in the distance and on the map, I think it would offer an excellent adventure hunt for the right type of hunter.


THE FOOD
This is a category that I included in my Cameroon hunt report given the fine French cuisine served there, and typically is not an important element to a Zimbabwe safari, at least in recent years. Great hunting, decent camps, top PH’s, and good value for the money…but average food which considering the other aspects is perfectly acceptable. That is, one does not go to Zimbabwe and expect a Tanzania-like dining experience.

However, unlike my trips to Zim in 05, 06, 07 and 08, due to the Dollarization of the economy the availability of goods has increased tremendously. Although at a cost premium especially right now as demand outstrips supply, it is possible to obtain just about anything with a bit of effort. Martin is based out of Bulawayo, which is an ~8hr drive away, and working with his wife Candy is able to supply the camp with all sorts of local and imported fresh foods including fruits and vegetables. Couple this with two excellent cooks, and a camp manager who appreciates good food, and you have the makings of some wonderful meals. Especially after 12 hours in the bush!!!

Dinners were severed around 8pm, after everybody had gotten back to camp, showered, and enjoyed a few sundowners around the fire. Being the first hunt of the season, the only game meat available was that shot by us, which included waterbuck and bushbuck. I have always heard that waterbuck is virtually uneatable, however, this was not the case and although not as tender as the bushbuck it tasted nice. By request we had lots of fresh fish (brim), plus standby’s including steak, pork and chicken. All meals were served with either a hors• d'oeuvre or appetizer, starches such as potatoes, rice or sadza (pronounced "sudza"), and vegetables including locally grown yams, carrots and acorn squash, and a nice salad. Desserts were exquisite, and although I had small portions, I always left room. My favorite of which was the homemade vanilla ice cream – quite a treat in the bush! Again, after a long day in the field, the excellent cooking was very much appreciated by all…and I still managed to drop 5 pounds of winter weight!

Typical meal but with “kapenta” (more on this to follow) and sadza:


Fresh brim with the trimmings:


Steak, chicken, pork sausage & bushbuck served extra rare:




THE LAND
Omay North is a one million acre hunting concession located in the middle Zambezi Valley. It is bordered by Lake Kariba on the North, the Ume River and Matusadona National Park to the east, and the Sengwa River on the west. To the south is the Omay South hunting block, which is approximately another one million acres. Martin acquired the hunting rights to Omay North from longtime acquaintance Butch Walker, and this is his third year controlling the area, working under “Bulembi Safaris”, and with any luck will control this area for many years to come.

This is important as otherwise there is little incentive for an operator to invest in an area, which includes the camps, road network, local communities and anti-poaching. Martin is one of a handful of Zim operators looking towards the future, and throughout the report you will see glimpses of his passion and enthusiasm to turn things around. Without going into detail or breaking any confidences, I think we will see Martin’s sphere of influence increasing over the coming years, which is a good thing for the hunting industry in Zimbabwe.

Per the map below, our camp was on the western bank of the Ume River, where it dumps into Lake Kariba.



While my understanding of how this all works pales in comparison to that of Mart’s and those in the industry, the following is a general overview that others not intimately familiar with Zimbabwe may find interesting.

Omay is a Communal Hunting Concession, and part of the CAMPFIRE (Communal Areas Management Program for Indigenous Resources) program. In 1989, the CAMPFIRE program was founded to improve relationships between rural Zimbabweans and their environment to the hopes of creating long-term sustainability of the entire ecosystem. It provides structure and incentives to Zimbabweans to preserve wild animals and utilize them as a valuable natural resources, rather then poach them and destroy their habitat. Leased by safari operators, CAMPFIRE profits are primarily generated by hunting. Trophy hunting should be considered the ultimate form of ecotourism, as hunters usually travel in small groups, demand few amenities, cause minimal damage to the local ecosystem, yet provide considerable income.

The money collected is used for the general community such as building and equipping clinics and schools, constructing fences, drilling boreholes, building and maintaining roads and controlling poaching. In years of drought, the money was used to buy maize and other foodstuffs. In recent times, the actual value of the program to the local people has been modest at best. This is because as the Zimbabwe economy collapsed and inflation rose, by the time payments were made to Council, the amounts were virtually worthless.

However, with the Dollarization of the Zimbabwe economy in January 2009, all fees including trophy fees are now paid to the CAMPFIRE areas in USD’s and represent real buying power for goods and services. This is a big change and one that hunters should be aware of, as a considerable part of their money will again be going towards the conservation of the land and game, and to the aid of the local people.

In addition, the safari companies operating in the CAMPFIRE areas employ many local villagers as trackers, camp staff, anti-poaching scouts and road crews. Martin has some (75) local people on payroll in one form or another. Not only are they paid for their services, but rations including meat, mealie meal, medical supplies and clothing are provided. Perhaps most importantly, in properly run CAMPFIRE areas, the symbiotic relationship between the people and the safari company is to the benefit of the land and the wildlife. For as they become educated in the value of hunting and tourism, the hope is that they come to understand the concept of stewardship, and that wildlife is of more benefit to them alive then dead. Nobody can stop meat poaching in Africa, but as a community when they police themselves, the impact to an area can be minimized.

Omay’s administrative center is the District Council located in the village of Siakobvu. Settlements are centered around four major chiefdoms: Mola, Negande, Nebiri and Msampakaruma. The various villages are organized into Wards, each with a governing body. For being in the middle of nowhere, with little modern conveniences, it all struck me as being amazingly organized. Half of the trophy fee cost goes to the District Council, which is run very much like a corporation. The other half goes to the Ward in which the animal was shot, providing incentive to control poaching and village settlement. Excluding that needed by the safari operators, all meat (“nyama”) is distributed to the villages, and in the case of elephant typically the village closest to the kill.


THE PEOPLE
Known as the Batonga (also called Tonga), the people living in the Omay Communal lands were relocated to this area by the government in the late 1950’s following the building of Lake Kariba, and the flooding of their native lands along the Zambezi River, which they are said to have inhabited since the Stone Age period. They are mainly subsistence farmers, and among the poorest and least developed societies in the country. The language spoken is Tonga, which has little in common with the more prevalent Shona spoken by some 80% of all native Zimbabweans.

As is typical of Zimbabwe, I found the people to be friendly, especially those living in the more rural farming areas in the midlands of the concession. It was common to drive down a dirt track, and hear the yells of children as they ran from their huts and thru the fields in the hopes of catching a wave, or perhaps if they are lucky, a sweet. The people along the water in the fishing villages were a bit less congenial, likely due to their exposure to the outside world via the waterways, and the encounters that they have had over the years with the safari operators and game scouts due to their fish poaching activities in Lake Kariba and the surrounding river systems.


















MY HUNTING TEAM
Martin Pieters – Hunting professionally, for some 17 years, Martin has shot with clients over 130 elephants to date. Much of Martin’s experience was in Botswana, hunting for Jeff Rand. Clients have included many well-known hunters and personalities, including General Norman Schwarzkopf who gave Mart his beautiful William Douglas .470 double rifle (which sadly took a bit of bit of a beating on this hunt!). Active in the industry, Martin is currently serving on the board of the Zimbabwe Professional Hunters Association, and is a member of the testing committee that evaluates and licenses new professional hunters.



Steven – Steven is from Omay North, and has been tracking here for many years. He proved to be an EXCELLENT elephant tracker, working mostly solo we literally walked on spoor covering a lot of ground quickly. When close he is quite good, including when leading the group into the jungle-like jesse which is cause enough to make everybody a bit nervous. He is personable and always with a smile, eager to jump off the truck and help cut branches or push, and was a pleasure to hunt with.



Dalton – Dalt is Martin’s senior “appy” and accompanied us during the entire hunt. He’s in his third year of apprenticeship, and will be taking his written exam this year followed by his practical at which point based on his experience level I would expect him to be hunting on a full license come 2010. Dalt is nice young man who is hard-working and has a passion for hunting and the outdoors. In my conversations with him I found him to be polite, respectful, personable…basically he has what it takes to be an excellent professional hunter.

Jabu – Mart’s long-time tracker and assistant, Mart grew up hunting kudu in the hills with Jabu. While his elephant hunting experience is limited, Jabu is very handy on the trail as well as in camp and on the truck. Eager to do whatever is necessary, protective, and cheerful from morning till night.

Madjambonje – Our Game Scout provided by the Council. Unlike Parks Game Scouts in Safari Areas such as Chewore, Makuti and Sapi, Madjam was not armed. He was always helpful and when I hunt Omay again I would hope to have him again on the team.

Batsarayi – Bats was the sometimes driver and truck attendant, dutifully watching over things while we were in the bush. He is not yet to the point where he can work via radio to intercept hunters as they walk thru the bush shortening return trips, or check spoor as he drives, but perhaps under Mart’s supervision he will get there soon.

Dalton, Jabu, Steven (high-seat, left to right), Madjambonje (behind Jabu) & Batsarayi (far right)


Andre (Dylan’s PH) & Chap (Bob’s PH) Esterhuizen - Father & Son



TRAVEL DAY
When hunting Zimbabwe, I have always driven to the hunting concession from Harare, requiring anywhere from 5-10 hours. I actually enjoy this aspect of the trip, as one gets to see the countryside and the people along the way. And, it is cheaper then chartering. However, as there were three of us paying to hunt 1x1 on this trip (unlike when it is myself and sons…where dear old Dad pays it all!) it was an ideal opportunity to share a plane. Too, while the drive-in is fun, the drive-out can be brutal, especially when hopping on the plane for the long trip home.

Even with the delay at the airport, we arrived at camp shortly after noon. This gave us ample time to unpack, call home via the satellite phone, have a nice lunch, site in the rifles, and do a bit of fishing.

Our group at the range:


Bob shooting his Blaser in .470NE:


Dylan with his .500NE Merkel:


A late-afternoon boat ride & brim fishing (unfortunately the waters were too muddy during our trip for Tiger fishing):


Who says elephant aren’t good swimmers!!!








DAY-1 HUNTING
And so at 4am another elephant hunt began, with the usual sound of approaching footsteps followed by the quiet “Morning, Morning” until a response is finally mumbled. I actually slept well this night, getting a good 6hrs of sleep. Breakfasts were heaping bowls of oatmeal with bran, plus toast and peanut butter, and of course a cup of extra-hearty Folgers instant coffee (no sissy coffer maker from the States on this hunt!). Like most PH’s, Mart said he did not eat breakfasts but did so on this hunt, commenting several times during the hunt that doing so gave him sustained energy throughout the morning and thus avoiding that 10am crash.

Did I mention it was raining? Well, it was, and had all night. The rains in Zim are fascinating and somewhat scary as dry river beds turn into rushing torrents of muddy water seemingly within minutes. We encountered three types of soil during the hunt: (1) grey clay that was gooey and sticky, (2) red clay which was like ice when wet under foot, and (3) black cotton soil which is analogous to quicksand (or in my part of the world wet coal silt) and impassible by vehicle. The mud also puts a strain on the vehicles, exposing them to stresses that are not common even in the roughest, rocky terrain. We broke a steering component which thankfully failed while turning around and not while we were moving at any speed.

A typical & quite passable dirk track during the early part of the hunt:


Mart & Dalt doing some field repairs…amazing what can be done with a hammer & a bit of wire!


During the previous two weeks, an elephant bull with reported “big tusks” had been seen hanging around a particular village. The elephant was acting strangely, not leaving the area. We parked and geared-up, and began a walk to see if we could locate tracks. It was raining steadily, and not more then 20-yards from the truck I promptly fell on my ass in the mud. I figured best to get it over with quickly, but I can only imagine what the guys behind me were thinking regarding my dexterity.

We crisscrossed the area, looking for spoor, eventually spotting the bull in a green thicket. Although the tusks indeed appeared big, it was actually due to the long thin ivory in relation to a small body. The bull was “edgy”, and moved off before we could get a good look. Despite the rain, Steven had no problems tracking him, and we followed for another hour or so as he moved in a large semi-circle. He was not acting like a typical bull after being bumped, walking fast but not running and stopping back often to look back. It was only after getting on him a second time that we could see the cause. There was a wound on the inside of his right front foot, which appeared to be from a gunshot. Being the first hunters of the season it was likely not via a high-caliber weapon, but thru the bino’s, it was apparent that it had become infected and it was effecting his mobility.

He moved off before we were able to get close enough, and we again followed his tracks. This time when we caught up with him, rather then risking bumping him again and considering he was wounded, I attempted a “long” 35-40 yard quartering-away side brain shot. The shot was a bit too far front and high, and the bull immediately started moving away from us, but then abruptly and inexplicitly turned to his right and began running actually towards us on a diagonal angle to out right. At about 20-yards I put in a running side brain shot and he was down. I probably should have gone for a safer body shot, but as strange as it may sound I was a bit angered that he did not fall at the initial attempt. And, as agreed to beforehand Mart was standing by to help if required.

While we were pleased, it was a bit of a sobering feeling as while the elephant needed to be shot, it shouldn’t had to have been that way. Although approved by the Game Scout as a mercy killing, I paid for this elephant and it was put on my TR2 noting that I had more available to me if desired, on a kill fee basis only (that is, no additional day rates). While not the trophy I personally was looking for, especially on day-1 of a 12-day hunt, Mart said that the long thin ivory would have been perfect for one of his many Spanish clients. However, none were scheduled to come into the area for several months, and in that time the bull would have likely suffered and died, and/or became a problem to the local people.

The shame of it was, that it was likely those very same people who were responsible for shooting the bull as it raided their fields. Martin spoke with the Chief of the area, and took this up with the Council after I left when the tusks and salted hide were delivered, and is planning to use this as an example as to why he is implementing a strong anti-poaching program. TIA, as the movie says, and animal/human conflicts are bound to happen. The reality is that each year some crops get destroyed, some elephant get shot, some people go hungry, and a few villagers get killed.

Elephant #1:


The cutting of tail (note we are all soaked from the rain):


Bullet wound thru the bone that had gone septic:



For the recovery, we purposely did not go to the closest village, so as to not reward the suspected culprits with the meat. Instead, we went to a nearby fishing village. It was a bit odd, but the people actually needed some convincing to come and retrieve the meat. Being along the water they have plenty of fish to eat and traded for other kinds of food, so they were not as “hungry” as the typical Tonga villagers. And…it was raining. This was in stark contrast to the experiences of Bob and Dylan, who had over a hundred people at their recoveries. Those that came though, were very appreciative.

Recovery of the meat ("nyama" in Shona) & distribution to the people from the nearby fishing village:






Delivering the trunk to Chief Mola:



As we were visiting with Chief Mola, we were told that Dylan and his PH Andre were a few kilometers away in the truck awaiting sundown. There were reports of elephant raiding the fields, and Dylan wanted to try to shoot one at night using a spotlight. Around 8pm they came into the fields, and he put the first big elephant spotlighted down with two quick shots to the head from his Merkel .500NE double shooting hand-loaded .570 grain Woodleigh Solids.

Dylan’s problem elephant cow shot at night in the fields:


The next morning there were over 100 Villagers waiting for meat, despite the rain:




DAY-2 HUNTING
We put some miles on the Cruiser today, driving south to the Council headquarters then west towards the Sengwa River, asking villages along the way if they were having any problems with elephants raiding the fields. There was a report of an aggressive bull elephant that charged the villagers as they attempted to scare it away from their crops. However, after checking it out, the bull was moving across a river to an area inaccessible to us. We told the man who’s fields had been hit the hardest that if the bull should raid the fields again, and move into the mountains where we could track him, that he should get word to us via the Council who was now on radio thanks to some handiwork by Martin.

Africa in the rainy season:






Remote villager who’s crops had been raided the previous night be an aggressive elephant:



His crop of sorghum:



The majority of fields were planted with sorghum, which has a nutritional profile similar to that of maize (corn), but is cheaper to grow as the seeds cost much less. When ground into flour, it is made into a porridge (a paste known as sadza), and is the principal starch in the villagers diet. We also saw a few fields planted with millet, which is used the same as sorghum and maize. Due to all the rain, the crops were healthy, but there was some concern that if the rains did not stop, the crops would rot before they had an opportunity to harvest and dry them.

Harvested sorghum drying in the sun:


Grinding sorghum into a flour, the old-fashioned way:


A "watch tower" overlooking a villagers field of sorghum:



Of note is that sorghum can also be used to make “7 Day Beer”…another staple in the rural male African’s diet! Seven days to make…and another seven days to recover from! I am sure the beer crop will be good this year, especially when there is ample food aid coming in from the US and WFP (World Food Program) which have kicked into gear now that the elections are over and food can be distributed to non Zanu-PF districts (such as Omay which primarily voted for the opposition party).

In the afternoon we walked in the hills along the Ume River, picking up tracks of a herd of elephant. The herd was led by a huge tuskless cow, the biggest I have ever seen. We bumped the group, and she and a young bull who missing the end of his trunk thanks to a snare, gave us a bit of a charge but no shot opportunity. The elephant fled, literally straight-down a steep gully that we had to find another way around. It is always amazing to me the terrain that elephant are able to traverse, seemingly with ease. Mud, rocks, thick bush, embankments…nothing proves too much of a problem to an elephant especially when motivated.

As we followed the spoor, there was a ruckus to our rear and then trumpeting of elephant. We had apparently split the herd, and the rest of the group had gotten our scent as they tried to rejoin the others. I thought either that, or they were tracking us! We played hide-and-seek with the herd for a few hours, following them up and down some serious terrain and thru thick bush. We would get close enough to hear their rumblings, the fickle winds would swirl, and off they would go. At this time of the year, they do not move far as they feel safe in the sea of green, but remain keenly alert to anything out of the ordinary. We eventually had to abandon the hunt as darkness was fast approaching.

When we got back to camp, I learned that Bob had a big day, shooting his meat bull in the morning and a waterbuck in the evening, both clean one-shot kills. And after 5 trips to Africa, he had also seen his first lion in the wild. Dinner was wonderful, tender steak, sudza, baked potatoes, gravy, carrots, acorn squash, a fresh salad and of course dessert. Sleep came easily at 10pm.

Bob’s meat bull, taken with his Blaser in .470NE with a single shot thru the heart at 10-yards:






Bob’s waterbuck spotted from the boat & stalked on foot:




DAY-3 HUNTING
We were up again at 4am, and once again it was raining hard. We hung around camp until first light in the hopes that we might see clearing skies and head in that direction. It was rain everywhere, and rather then sit around camp, at 8:30 we hit the trail, albeit a muddy one. We had to turn back once due to a flooded stream that we were not able to cross.

Flooding streams are frightening as they rise with little warning:




Mart’s hydraulic winch came in very handy on this hunt!



We finally made it to a nice valley where the previous year Martin had seen quite a bit of game. The rains had now subsided, and although everything was wet, we were able to at least get around. As we started walking, the guys spotted some vultures in a tree. Thinking it might be a lion kill, we worked our way towards it, crossing a stream that came up to our knees. Up to this point, my feet had managed to stay pretty dry. However, they were now soaked. The vultures were just drying their wings, and flew off as we approached, breaking branches as they forced their feet down to aid in lift off. So we crossed the stream again, and continued our walk down the valley towards the Ume River. Dalton had stayed behind and moved the Cruiser to a meeting point, which we almost reached before the skies opened up again, drenching us. Lunch was sandwiches from the coolbox.

Building an earth bridge to cross a washed-out gully:




The afternoon proved quite exciting, as we entered the famed “Tiger Bay Jesse” in search of tuskless elephant. We picked up spoor of a herd crossing the dirt track that splits the jesse block, and proceeded to follow them into the eerie jungle-like sea of green. I have hunted in the jesse before, including Chewore North in April, but this was essentially a wet-season (January) hunt. To say the bush was thick is an understatement. Steven did an amazing job of tracking the herd, and in the thick cover they had not traveled far before we heard them feeding. Although we were probably within 20-yards, we never saw them. The tunnels and trails that one can peer down later in the season were non-existent. The fickle winds gave us away and the herd disappeared.

The sea of green that is the Tiger Bay Jesse:


Do you see the elephant? I don’t either!



We picked up the trail but shortly thereafter crossed a bulls track (how Steven was able to decipher this is beyond me). We followed the bull as he meandered his way thru the bush, walking parallel to the water for several kilometers before exiting the bush to the floodplain.

After 2hrs in the jesse, it is a great feeling to break out into the open of the floodplain, with the water and blue skies ahead. The bull was not far, leisurely feeding on the tender grasses. From behind, all we saw was his right tusk which stood out to the side and appeared huge in relation to his body. However, as we approached, we determined that he was a rather small-bodied elephant, and although the tusks were long, they were thin. I recall mumbling something to the effect of “friggin forest elephants”. As we approached, he sensed our presence, and gave us a bit of a show before returning to the jungle.

The rare & elusive Tiger Bay Jungle Elephant:








During the frantic walk back to the Cruiser, thru the ~3km of jesse, I began to become keenly aware of my feet. Specifically, having been in wet boots all day, I was developing a blister or two on my right foot, and had a strange pain in my left big toe. As the pace accelerated, my coordination diminished and to keep things exciting I took a branch to the ear and stepped knee-deep into some creature’s hole. We arrived back at camp after sundown...a quick shower, pork with the trimmings for dinner, and bed at 9:30.
 
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DAY-4 HUNTING
Following the same routine, we were up at 4am, and on the trail by 4:45 heading to the Tiger Bay Jesse. Tracks were plentiful, and we were soon following a herd of elephant thru the jesse. Martin reiterated to Dalton and myself that if we were charged, we should shoot first and ask questions later. While perhaps obvious, this was reassuring to hear, as in the past when confronted by an angry elephant I often think first about my position relative to my PH, and try to follow his lead. In the jesse there is no time for this as a charge may just as likely occur from the side or from behind, as it might from the front.

There was a lot of buffalo sign, and we got close to a herd feeding in some thick stuff. We saw a few cows and one nice but young bull that was glaring our way trying to determine what we were. When he turned to run, the bush came alive with buffalo, they were standing there all the time but not until they moved were we able to see them. With the cover making them feel safe, they did not go far, and we bumped into them a few more times as we followed the elephant.

We got on the herd and began our approach, but once again the wind changed direction and the big tuskless cow at the back of the group gave us a few steps and a loud trumpet, before turning to run. Had she charged, I would have been on her, with Martin there to back me up if need be, but unfortunately she never came completely around. Steve was ahead of Mart and I, in front of the guns, and all I remember is seeing him drop and disappear. Martin said later that he looked like a python slithering away, which is a pretty accurate description.

An angry elephant is impressive, especially one of this size. With all the mud around, the elephant were brown and this one with a big square head, wild eyes, and no tusks to soften the appearance was particularly menacing.

It was Mart’s turn to provide some entertainment, and he came thru by taking a double-brain shot from a pair of very angry wasps. As the elephant pass and disturb the wasp’s nest, they get all riled up, and God help the next poor sucker thru. Steven led the way and must have seen the impending doom and wiggled out of the way, but not before drawing Mart’s attention skyward. They hit fast and hard, just missing Mart’s left eye. It was obviously painful, and remained swollen for several days, but he took it like a man!

We continued following the herd as the jesse began to give way to more open bush, and after about an hour we were once again within 30 yards of the tuskless, who was feeding away from us. We began our approach, and I took the lead walking with gun ready towards the big cow. At about 15 yards Mart snapped his fingers, expecting the tuskless to turn and face us, with that classic head held high posture as she glares down her trunk trying and determine what sort of fool would be sneaking up on her. However, this old cow was clever, and she simply looked over her left shoulder, took a few steps, looked back over her right, and fled. And just like that it was over. As frustrating as this was, one could not help but to be impressed.

We tracked them for another hour as they moved into the open grass and mopane scrub, before entering another patch of thick forest bush. About a kilometer ahead we heard them scream, and assumed it was directed at somebody they had ran across, as we were getting close to a fishing village. Of course it would be terrible if something happened to an innocent passerby, but in typical African fashion, one could not help but to chuckle at the potential scene unfolding. I cannot explain it, but next time in the bush watch the reaction of the other members of your group when one encounters mild misfortune.

Low on water and out of ash (you know you have been in the jesse too long when your ash bag is empty!!!), and rather then push them out of the area, we called off the hunt and made our way back to the truck. By this time, the pain in my left toe was getting bad, but I figured it would just work itself out.

On the way back to camp, the guys spotted a herd of elephant feeding in the distance. We geared up and put on a stalk. There were two tuskless in the group, one of decent size if not the monster we had just left. As it was getting late in the day, they were in more open bush feeding and we were able to work our way thru the herd without giving them our wind. As often happens, we managed to get in front of the tuskless as she rounded a corner heading towards us.

I stepped forward and took the Ruger off safety, waiting for her to provide an opportunity for a frontal brain shot. I raised the rifle as our eyes met, her head and trunk held high into the air, head slightly angling sideways to my right. I don’t recall aiming per-se, or at least looking thru the sites. At the shot her real legs buckled and the trunk went up high into the air, indicating a good brain shot and instant death. Prior to shooting, I was aware of a tusked cow off to her right (my left) that was actually a few yards closer (10 yards to be exact). I quickly cycled the bolt and pointed my rifle in her direction, but instead of charging she went the other way, and of course Mart was keeping an eye on her too. The shot was walked off to be 14-yards.

We left the recovery for Steven, one of Mart’s junior appy’s, to take care of the next morning. I asked Steve to trace the bullet’s path, and recover it if possible. He reported that the .500gr Woodleigh had passed thru the right side of the brain, forcing brain matter out the ear hole, exited the skull at the back of the head, went through 6-8 inches of spine, and continued on into the body cavity where he was unable to recover it. Not bad penetration for a round nose bullet! Bob and Dylan did recover two of their Woodleigh’s, and both were in good shape with nothing more then rifling and a slightly flattened nose to indicate that they had been fired.

Tuskless as she fell from the frontal brain shot:


Tuskless elephant as viewed when shot (distance 14-yards):


Me with the Team:


Dinner was once again excellent, and included elephant tail stew from Bob’s elephant, cabbage, rice, sudza and pie for dessert. I passed out at 9pm.


DAY-5 HUNTING
I woke this morning to sore feet, but in the darkness managed to get the boots on and off we went. Looking for PAC elephant, we stopped by several villages to ask if there have been any reports. We were told that elephant were raiding crops in “Twoboys” village, which is a pretty nice spread on the outskirts of the village and therefore the first one the elephant were likely to hit. Note that Mart won’t respond to any reports of PAC by villagers living in areas not approved by the Council for settlement, a few of which we had.

Old Twoboys must have been an interesting fellow, and had quite a reputation in the local area. I said “had”, as Twoboys is dead. It seems that besides being a farmer, Twoboys was a rather gifted poacher. He was killed a few years ago when he attempted to spear a buffalo that had been caught in one of his snares. A rather fitting end. Twoboys is said to have over 300 children, and many wives, or make that widows.

We met one of his sons in the village, who is apparently following in his father’s footsteps. Mart cornered him and told him exactly what was going to happen to him when he was caught, that instead of going to Parks to be “messed up”, he would be taken right to Harare. It was a humorous exchange, very much cat-and-mouse. As Martin described all the terrible things that awaited him, Twoboys Jr simply smiled and replied “Yea, Shooor”. He asked for a job, saying “If you employ me, I won’t poach”. Makes sense, however, given his reputation we doubted he would make a loyal employee, and the Batonga are known to not be above common thievery (Mart had a boat, an outboard engine, and some miscellaneous stuff from camp stolen over the Christmas holidays when is was vacant).

Gathering info about PAC activity at “Twoboys” village:


Once the spoor was confirmed, we began tracking the elephant. There were initially two, one of which had a large print of about 21-inches that is good for the area. One of the things that I love about tracking elephant is that you get to see exactly what they were up to, where they stopped to drink, take a mud bath, feed, take in salt/minerals, meet up with other elephant, and sleep. This particular bull was busy, after raiding the fields with his buddy, they went their separate ways. Our bull relieved himself quite a bit with hugs piles of dung. Tired from the night out, he slept lying down a total of three times.

Hard to see in the picture, but this is a large 21-inch footprint typical of an elephant over 40yrs old:


Large pile of fresh bull dung:


Tusk marks in the sand where the bull had laid down to sleep:



Steven did a great job following the spoor, and once again we were able to walk at a decent speed making up lots of ground and time. I was struggling a bit though, as the pain in my left toe was getting worse, and although I like carrying my own rifle I thought it best to hand it over to Steven. We were not in typical cow elephant territory, and ego aside, this was the correct action as I was beginning to slow the group down. After about 2hrs of fast tracking, we caught up with the bull who was standing in some cover. What we should have done was after judging the ivory, quietly backed out to discuss the options. Instead, we hung around a few seconds too long, and he either smelled or sensed us, and fled.

Mart thought this bull carried about 40lbs per side of thick for the area ivory, and it was clear that he was an older bull. Although technically he was a “problem elephant”, he was indeed a “trophy” and as such not one that we would shoot as a non-export PAC (technically a “meat bull” on the license). Although I was looking for something in the 50+ pound range, this was otherwise the type of elephant that I was after. And given the hunting conditions, it was going to be difficult for us to cover the amount of ground that we needed to in order to “get lucky” on something bigger. With this in mind, and full of adrenalin after the encounter, we decided to see if we could get back on this bull and take him.

However, he had other ideas and was now alert. We bumped him in some thick cover, we never saw him, just heard the crashing of the bush. From his deep footsteps, and placement of the rear oval foot close to the round front foot, it was easy to tell that he was intent on putting some distance between he and us. And so began a death march that is the norm in elephant hunting.

As the morning wore on, the sun became hot…very hot. Gone was the shade of the jesse, and we were in open mopane scrub and grassland. A few weeks prior in Penna it had been snowing with temperatures in the mid-20’s, now it was over 100-degrees. The millions of gallons of water everywhere began to evaporate into the air, and the humidity level became almost unbearable. Sweating profusely, yet unable to cool, I became dehydrated. Chills, tingling limbs, confusion, exhaustion. Once dehydrated, it is near-impossible to drink enough water to catch-up. A rehydration mix that Mart carried in the medical kit in the backpack helped, and almost instantly my energy level and mental alertness was restored. Unfortunately it only lasted about a half-hour.

The guys getting a drink from a fast-running, albeit muddy, stream:


The bull was showing no signs of slowing; clearly he was an elephant on a mission. So around 3pm and after about 7hr of tracking with some 18 miles of ground covered, we had to call it off for the day. Mart radioed the appy Steven who was doing some roadwork and gave him a place to meet us. After another 45-minutes of slow walking we hit the road.

Waiting for pickup and return to camp:


Back at camp, I removed my boot to find that my left toe was not only discolored, but full of puss around the nail. I was also unable to bend it. I relieved the infected area, and applied Triple Antibiotic cream. It was a Hell of a day! Elephant hunting can be like this, and looking back, this is another reason why I love it so much. It forces you to dig deep within yourself, and deal with challenges and circumstances often beyond your control.

It is worth mentioning that my anti-malaria of choice is Doxycycline (100mg/day during the hunt followed by 4-weeks afterwards, see the CDC website listed below), partly to address situations like this. The downside is possible stomach distress, and sensitivity to sunlight. Taken at night with a full meal, I have found these to be minimized. Doxy also treats tic bite fever, and several times during the hunt I found tics crawling on me.

CDC Webpage on Anti-Malaria Drugs: http://www.cdc.gov/malaria/travel/drugs_public.htm

At camp, we learned that Bob and Dylan combined to shoot another elephant, a crop-raider. This is one of the nice things about hunting with a buddy, and although I didn’t spend any time in the field with either Bob or Dylan, the two of them did did team up quite a bit.

Bob & Dylan’s second elephant:







DAY-6 HUNTING
It is amazing what a good night’s sleep can do! Recovered and reinvigorated, we were at the pickup spot from the previous day, eagerly awaiting the sun to rise so we could begin tracking. At first light, we made our way to where we had left off, and Steven quickly located the tracks. Today we were ready, with two backpacks of water, Gatorade mix, and extra Clif bars. We figured that we would need 4-5hrs to catch up with the bull, unless he had buggered off to the Park.

Tracking speed was brisk, as we tried to cover as much ground as we could in the coolness of the morning. Shortly after we left him, he had joined up with a herd of cow elephant. Whether he did this given the pressure of being followed, or he was just looking for some female companionship, I don’t know. But he did spend the night with them, feeding. It took a half-hour or so to sort thru the tracks, and locate where the herd had departed. The bull was not with them, and after a bit more effort, Steven found his tracks heading off in a different direction. This was a good sign, as it meant we had made up a lot of time.

In fact, a considerable amount of time. The bull had not gone far, and luckily Steven spotted him before he saw us. He was standing under some trees, facing our direction but upwind of us. No conversation was necessary this time, just action. As I walked towards him, he actually began walking our way, stepping over a fallen tree. With the two of us moving together, the 25-yards quickly closed to 20, 15, then 10. I raised the rifle and fired when he was at 8 yards away. Unable to locate his ear holes or zygomatic arches in the shade of the trees and dimness of the early-morning light, I aimed thru the skull to where I thought the brain would be, and fearing to shoot too high as is common, went a wrinkle or two lower down the trunk.

The shot was a bit too low, and although stunned, the big bull regained his composure and began to run to my left. I cycled the bolt and put another shot in him, this time aiming for the body. It hit at the point of his shoulder, collapsing him on the spot. It was over quickly, and not more then 30 yards from where he had initially stood. Looking at the first shot, we couldn’t figure out how it missed the brain, it either went a bit low or the bullet did something funny. We didn't traced the bullet path, so I will never know.

Don’t let anybody kid you, the brain shot is a difficult one, especially on a big bull, as there are many variables. A twist or tilt to the head, or a slight change in elevation, can make all the difference in the world. And while a near-miss with a .500gr bullet may put down a cow or turn a charge, there is no guarantee that it will level a big bull. I am now 4 for 7 on “perfect” brain shots - but - all elephant were recovered and none went farther then this bull, and all died quickly which is about all that we can ask for. It is just this difficulty inherent to the brain shot that keeps calling me back to hunt elephant.

My Omay North trophy bull:




Note the deep crevices on the pads indicating an older bull, although not yet worn down



The rest of the day was spent with the recovery of the meat, hide, trunk and tusks. Given the remote location, surrounded on three sides by steep ravines, we were unable to get the trucks close to the bull. Word was put out that an elephant was down, and after a few hours the people began to appear out of nowhere. We cut a ~2km road and got to about a kilometer of the elephant. As soon as we were done with the pictures, the heavens opened up again. This made getting out quite an adventure, both across the ravines which now were full of water to the trucks, and the trucks back out to the main dirt track.

Butchering of the elephant led by the trackers and game scouts employed by Mart:


Village women patiently awaiting their turn:


Prime cuts were divided up & distributed to the men who with helped the butchering & carrying of the heavy hide, trunk and tusks to the truck:


Our tracker Steven and his daughter:


Appy hunter Steven leading the way back to the truck:


Winching our way out of the muddy bush (I think Mart’s big smile was contrived for the camera!):




DAY-7 HUNTING
After all the excitement the last few days, today (Sunday) was a rest and recovery day. I slept in to 6:30, ate a good breakfast, and relaxed most of the day. Late morning we went fishing for the pot, but the sun was too hot and they were not bighting. Attempting to get some sun, I managed to get burned (reminder to self, don’t screw with the early-season African sun!). The guys have some weights in camp, and I couldn’t resist doing a good dumbbell workout before dinner, which was another winner (breaded and fried brim, French fries, cabbage & potatoes, salad, and homemade vanilla ice cream). We had the first clear night, and I never tire of marveling at the amazing African sky. It is simply awe-inspiring, and even now when I close my eyes I can still see it, so bright and clear and seemingly close enough to touch.

Some good R&R:



DAY-8 HUNTING
With three elephant down, and five days yet in the hunt, Mart and I discussed our options. I like to keep moving, and love elephant hunting, so we decided to keep hunting elephant but limit ourselves to either a tuskless in the thick jesse or a very problematic PAC bull. Too, my feet had recovered from the problems associated with the wet weather, and I was anxious to stretch my legs.

We crossed elephant tracks, but as they were not in the extra-thick Tiger Bay jesse area we didn’t follow. We had our first good buffalo sighting, a herd of about 5 bulls standing along the old runway, one of which was a very impressive ~38-inch hard-bossed bull. We continued on to the Ume (Kariba) Crocodile Farm to tour the facility and meet up with ex-HHK PH Brian, the manager of the facility.

Due to the world-wide economic downturn, the croc farm has been forced to make some changes to the way they do business. Previously, they would sell the croc’s at about 2.5yrs of age for around $8/cm (typical 25cm per croc). Now, they must hold them until they are about 4yrs of age, and are making only $4/cm. There are some 64,500 crocs at this facility, plus some massive old breeder crocs. The farm is hatching their own eggs, as the numbers that they are able to harvest from the wilds have been cut as other players (including Parks) gets into the croc farming business.

It was entertaining to make the sound of a mother croc calling her young, and watch the immediate response of the baby crocs. They would snap their heads to the sound and reply back in unison. It just never got old!

A holding pen at the Ume (Kariba) Croc Farm:


Breeder crocs:




Croc food, which includes elephant meat purchased from safari operators in other parts of the country:



Needing to meet with the Sergeant of the local police department to sort out an issue involving an apprehended fish poacher, we drove to one of many kapenta operations located along the shores of Lake Kariba. Kapenta is a small sardine-like fish that was originally relocated from Lake Tanganyika (Tanzania) to Lake Kariba after the building of the dam. It is a major food source for the people of Zimbabwe, and most any grocery store in Harare and elsewhere has bags of the dried fish on the shelves. The locals rehydrate the kapenta and eat it with their sadza, adding valuable protein, oils and calcium to their diet. Along with their sudza and possibly some fresh vegetables, just a cup of dried kapenta will feed an average family for a day.

Kapenta drying on the racks, this was the previous night’s catch:


Some of the older fishing boats docked at this harbor:



Per Wikipedia: “This fish is caught at night using lights to attract it. A dip net generally about six meters in diameter is used to bring the fish up from anything from 40 meters (130 ft). It is then salted at a ratio normally of 2.5 kg per 30 kg (1 lb per 12 lb) of fish, and dried in the hot Zambezi Valley sun”. The owner of this fishery said that so far this was a decent year, but that June, July and August were the prime fishing months. One of the challenges faced by the kapenta fishing operators is theft, as it is not uncommon for the guys on the boat to meet up with people from Zimbabwe and Zambia when out on the water, and sell off part of the catch, pocketing the money for them selves. Aw Africa, where everybody makes a plan!


DAY-9 HUNTING
In the days that followed we continued to track elephant in and out of the jesse. This particular morning we followed a herd that had raided one of the fields in Chief Mola’s area for several hours. We abandoned the hunt after confirming that they were all cows and with quite a few young, and they were putting some distance between themselves and the fields.

There is a lot of talk on the forums regarding what accessories (gadgets) are needed during a hunt. For me, I prefer to carry as few things on my person as possible. I almost always carry my rifle over my shoulder, but dislike a lot of gadgets hanging off my belt. As such, I use a simple “culling belt” with 5 to10 to maybe 15 shells depending on the nature of the hunt, typically more on longer walks and/or when excepting to be around herds of cows. In my pocket I carry a small waterproof and shockproof Olympus camera, and that’s pretty much it.

However, I do make use of the backpack carried by the trackers. On this particular hunt, a small tube of sunblock was a requirement, as was a little bottle of Ben’s deet spray to keep the flies at bay which were bad especially around the villages. A Clif bar or two for energy, and of course a roll of campers toilet paper (in the wrapper or a Zip-Loc bag) rounded out the essentials. I always try to check the backpack, and/or watch it being filled, to make sure that enough water is being carried, as a “short walk” can easily turn into an all day affair. Getting into a routine helps, mine is: put on the cartridge belt; drop the camera into the pocket; take the rifle from the tracker as he hands it down to me; face away from the group and top it off with a “lucky round” (one that has been carried on a previous hunt) from the belt; confirm double safety on; get a bottle of water from the truck attendant and chug; verify the backpack(s) is full of water; head out.

Essential items were easily available to me whenever I needed them, as was water:


Later in the morning we drove the floodplain separating the jesse from Lake Kariba. Although we did not see much game, as the season goes on and water becomes scarce, the animals flock to the Lake’s shores for the last bit of green grass and water. The rains were by now a distant memory, and with the temperature hitting 100-degrees by 10am and continuing to rise to around 2pm, the cool breeze coming off the lake was quite refreshing.

Enjoying some fresh watermelon along the shores of Kariba:


These trees have remained standing since the dam was built and the area flooded, which was some 50-years ago!


Mart received word that the road crew had spotted a buffalo dragging a log not far from camp, obviously with a snare attached. We raced back to where he had crossed the dirt track, and meeting Steven the appy, began taking up the spoor. As darkness was approaching, Mart told our tracker Steven to work quickly, which he did although the spoor was pretty easy to follow (I remember needling to the effect of “even a blind tracker…”) as the log left a considerable drag mark in the dirt. Every so often it got hooked, and it was impressive to see the size of the rocks that the bull dislodged as he struggled forward.

We expected to find the bull standing waiting for us, and capable of charging. However, when we came upon him he was dead, and in fact signs indicated that he had died as little as a half-hour before our arrival. It was a gruesome site, as the snare had caught the 6-7 year old bull around the snout. He had gotten tangled in some small trees and unable to break free, he died probably of dehydration. I had neglected to take my camera on this walk, but perhaps it was for the best. As the meat was still good, Steven and Dalton returned to recover it with a truck load of the guys from camp, leaving behind some of the innards and meat for the bold female leopard who had also been following the buffalo (her spoor was on top of the bulls).

As was stated previously, poaching occurs all over Africa and there is no way to stop it. Most areas can handle some meat poaching, the guy snaring a warthog or impala here and there to feed his family. But once the organized meat trade moves in, an area can be decimated in a shockingly short period of time. Prior to Martin taking over Omay South, poachers were getting the upper hand, as is occurring in other communal areas and most of the private land left in Zimbabwe with the exception of a few well-protected ranches such as Lemco and parts of the SAVE Conservancy.

Martin has instituted a very aggressive anti-poaching campaign in Omay North, consisting of approximately 30 men from the local communities plus several vehicles. They were selected out of hundreds of applicants based on their physical abilities and mental toughness. For example, one weeding-out test had 50 or so applicants run for 10 kilometers, the first 25 that arrived continued on in the program. The group is being trained by an ex-Zimbabwe army guy whose last tour of duty was in the DRC (Congo), who seems to have gained the confidence and respect of the men under him. Over the last two years it is said that game numbers have already increased in Omay North, and one can expect an even greater impact as the years unfold.

Charles Khumalo, who is in charge of the 30-man anti-poaching team now active in Omay North:



DAY-10 HUNTING
As it had been a few days since the last rains, we decided to try to reach the Mackenzie’s Point Camp, located to our west, overlooking the Sengwa River basin. The difficulty lied in our ability to cross the center of the concession, where the soft ground known as “black cotton soil” can make passage during the rains virtually impossible. The ground is very fertile, and here we drove thru many large fields with very healthy crops. I enjoy interacting with the local people, and while wilderness areas are wonderful, there is something more interesting to me when there are some people and culture around. This is especially so during the wet season, where everything is nice and green and full of life. Come October, most of the farming areas that we visited will be dust bowls, and one will wonder how on earth anybody scrapes out a living in such a bleak and seemingly inhospitable environment.

One meets some very interesting people!


A sign of changing times in Zimbabwe – we can only hope so! Charman is an elected local official.


In the States we have street addresses...in rural Zimbabwe they have these: (note he is a “Dispenser of Traditional Medicine!)


Andre/Dylan & appy Steven both stuck in the black cotton soil on their way to Mackenzie’s Point Camp:


Due to lots of rain and good soil, the crops in the midlands were very healthy:




DAY-11 HUNTING
Each morning after breakfast, we would walk down the path to where the truck was parked. The guys would be waiting, greeting us with big smiles and hearty “Good Mornin’s”. On this particular day, Steven asked Martin where we would be hunting, and Mart told him that we would be returning to the Tiger Bay jesse to hunt tuskless. Steven reflected on this a moment, sat back in the high seat, looked at me with a resolved grin, and simply replied said, “Aw, Bwana Jess”. I thought that was pretty cool.

Back to the jesse in search of tuskless elephant:


The rain had taken a toll on not only my rifle’s blued metal and stock, but also on my cloth cartridge belt which no longer held the rounds as tightly as it did prior. As a hunt wears on, I find that the number of rounds that I carry decreases, so this suited me fine.

In place of Jabu, Mart brought along a new tracker by the name of Witness. Witness has tracked for well-known PH’s such as Duckworth and Pete Fick in Chewore South, and did quite well acting as the #2 man. The jesse is a good test of a trackers character and courage, and as we got close to elephant he was solid and fit into the group nicely. It got a bit touchy as we inadvertently split a group of cows that we had been following. Several elephant to our right must have gotten our wind and fled, alerting the rest of the group in front of us. We continued on, not noticing a single elephant cow standing quietly to our left. Steven saw her out of the corner of his eye before we passed, and if she was unaware of our presence or laying a trap we’ll never know. As we retreated, she quietly left with the rest of the herd. We decided that the probability of getting on these elephant now - in the thick cover that was their backyard – was slim. We cut a path back to the dirt track, then to the truck.

Too much time in the thick bush can take its toll on everybody’s nerves!


Having not traveled more then a few kilometers in the Cruiser, we crossed the tracks of another herd of elephant, and decided to follow. While thick, the bush in the area was a bit more open and allowed some reasonable visibility. Mart teased Steven that it was “Mafazi” or girlie jesse, which like many things in the bush was hilarious at the time but when retold don’t quite have the same impact. We got within 20-yards of the herd and was able to look them over, determine that all cows were tusked, and left them undisturbed. As we backed-out, there was a commotion to our left about 50 meters away. We followed the sounds of crashing bush to discover two teenage elephant bulls testing each other’s strength. We watched for several minutes, then left them to continue on with their play. While confrontations are exciting, being able to get close to a group of elephant without them being aware of your presence is perhaps the ultimate stalking accomplishment.

Later that afternoon we took the boat out and spent a few hours catching brim for the table. It was a glorious sunset. As was usual, talk around the campfire was interesting, involving some shop-talk but also stories and conversations about firearms, reloading, memorable hunts, funny client antics, and as the hunt went on…girls in Bulawayo! During our final days in Zim, I would sneak away more frequently to a quiet spot to marvel at the African sky, trying desperately to commit it to memory.

A typical good-eating brim, which on a light spinning rod are a lot of fun to catch:


A nice bull elephant feeding along the shore, as photographed from the boat:


Dylan & Bob also took some good pictures of elephant and hippo feeding along the shores of Kariba:






Dylan shot a nice, tasty bushbuck with his small gun, a Kimber .325WSM


Camp manger Chris, who is also Martin’s father-in law:


There is little that can compare to an African sunset, especially one over the water:


Spirited conversation around the mopane-fueled campfire:




DAY-12 - FINAL HUNTING DAY
We spent the morning again playing with the cow elephant in the Tiger Bay jesse, and once again we got into a herd, but were unable to find any tuskless. Walking parallel to the water thru the jesse, we covered quite a bit of ground but didn’t come across any fresh spoor. Mart was hit by another an angry wasp, but this time on the back. We eventually came out on the floodplain, not too far from where some locals had set up a fishing camp.

As we approached, a half-dozen or so jumped into their makeshift boats and sped off. Most, however, remained and greeted us as we approached. One of the guys was the fish poacher who had been apprehended earlier for fishing in a breading area, had his boat confiscated, and forced to help around camp with some chores before being taken to the local Parks Department. He too greeted us with a smile, and offered us some of their lunch – cooked fish and sudza. We politely declined. These guys are durable if nothing else!

A fishing camp not far from the Croc farm in an area that is off-limits…and would soon be visited by the Parks Department:


Fishermen (fish poachers?) having lunch – cooked fish & sadza (tempting, but we declined!):


Homemade boat of tin & wood, confiscated by Martin’s anti-poaching team for fishing in illegal waters:



Rather then hang around camp the final afternoon, after the tips were handed out (went well, recommended amounts were realistic for Zimbabwe and the times) we decided to take a walk along the Ume River, hoping but not expecting to find a big old tuskless. At the start of the walk, Mart had the guys carry the ivory down to the water’s edge for some pictures, which was a great idea. We got into ele one last time and was treated to a half-hearted mock-charge by a big tusked cow, before ending the walk at a pool of water teeming with croc’s plus a few hippo.

My ivory collected during the hunt (the long thin ivory will go to the Council):


A pool along the Ume river, which was LOADED with croc’s!



That night we were treated to a wonderful braai (BBQ) of sausage, steak, chicken and bushbuck served extra rare, plus beans, garlic bread, a fresh salad and a delicious English dessert.

Last evening braai:


The end - of another great African adventure:




TRAVEL HOME
Our long journey home began with the 1.5hr flight to Harare. Our pilot was again Matthew, and he helped us quickly and painlessly get thru Customs and checked in for our 1:30pm flight to Johannesburg. After a short layover in Joburg, we were on the plane for the long flight home to Dulles, which included the annoying stop-over along the western coast of Africa to refuel, Senegal as I recall. We arrived in Dulles tired, but on time and with all of our luggage.

The start - of a long 35 hour journey home:



CLOSING
Although this was my fifth trip to Zimbabwe for elephant, every day was an adventure with new and exciting experiences. This of course required effort and the desire and determination to keep moving, but was also due in large part to Martin’s enthusiasm for hunting and life in general. Mart’s passion is apparent in an email that arrived the day I got home where he wrote:
quote:
“I just want to thank you for a most enjoyable hunt, the times we spent on tracks and in the jesse reassures my passion for elephant hunting, it is these moments that I live for and what keeps my hopes for Africa and its people and wildlife alive. I look forward to the next time we are able to do what we love most!”
Based on my experiences, I can whole-heartily recommend Martin Pieters for a quality African hunting adventure.

Thank you for sharing my trip with me.

Bill Smiler
 
Posts: 3153 | Location: PA | Registered: 02 August 2002Reply With Quote
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I may post additional pictures here in the future...

Please let me know what you think of the report guys...but just keep in mind that my dear old mother will be reading it too! Smiler

I will likely be making minor tweaks here-and-there for another week or so. If there are any questions...pls let me know.

Thanks!
 
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Bill,
Wonderful hunt and pictures. Doesn't look as hot and muggy as I thought it might. You could make a coffee-table book out of those picts and your story.


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Posts: 8100 | Location: NW Arkansas | Registered: 09 July 2005Reply With Quote
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You write an excellent report.
 
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Always a pleasure to read your hunting reports Bill!
 
Posts: 11651 | Location: Montreal | Registered: 07 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks Bill. I enjoyed that report. Looks like a wonderful trip for all.
Jeff


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Posts: 1689 | Location: North MS U.S.A. | Registered: 31 March 2007Reply With Quote
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Awesome as usual, Bill! Fantastic report!
 
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Thanks for sharing your fabously written report.

It makes me all of the more anxious to get to Africa for my first trip in just under 3 weeks.
 
Posts: 535 | Location: Greensburg, PA | Registered: 18 February 2008Reply With Quote
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Nicely done, Bill. Congrats on a great hunt!
 
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Nice report Bill, congratulations. My favorite part -- Buzz in his Houston Rockets T-Shirt. Wink


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Great pictures, Bill. You really capture the flavor of the hunt.
Jim
 
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A typically thorough report!

Thanks.
 
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Thank you for an outstanding hunt report. I felt that I was in the jess with you.

Congratulations on an excellent hunt and memories that will last a lifetime.


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Great report. I enjoyed reading it and seeing the photos very much. Thank you.


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Posts: 1378 | Location: Virginia, USA | Registered: 05 March 2005Reply With Quote
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You are still the reigning KING of hunting reports! Thanks for making the effort. I am sure I am not the only one that gets IMMENSE enjoyment from reading them. thumb

Congrats on another grand adventure!

Cheers
Canuck



 
Posts: 7123 | Location: The Rock (southern V.I.) | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Great report as always. Raising the bar again.

Brett


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May fordings never be too deep, And alders not too thick; May rock slides never be too steep And ridges not too slick.
And may your bullets shoot as swell As Fred Bear's arrow's flew; And may your nose work just as well As Jack O'Connor's too.
May winds be never at your tail When stalking down the steep; May bears be never on your trail When packing out your sheep.
May the hundred pounds upon you Not make you break or trip; And may the plane in which you flew Await you at the strip.
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Congrats on a wonderful hunt, and thanks for that outstanding report. The pics made it seem like we were there. Felt like I was walking along beside you. Can hardly wait the 118 days until my Zim hunt.
 
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I was waiting for your detailed report and it was worth waiting for. thumb


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I'm speechless. Thank you.


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Awesome report!!! Thanks for your time!!!
 
Posts: 2694 | Location: East Wenatchee | Registered: 18 August 2008Reply With Quote
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awesome report. Elephanthunt is still the cutting egde of all african hunts. Cool

Thanks for posting patriot. I am really getting inspired here


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Fantastic report, as usual!
All reports should be like this one...
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Bill C:
For Additional Pictures...


Is this post missing a link?
 
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Bill no one writes reports like you do.They are really very well detailed.It would take me longer than the hunt took to try put a report together like that.Great hunt well done.

Have you got another hunt planned for the year?
 
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Excellent report, Bill. Congrats.


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Posts: 2106 | Location: Around the wild pockets of Europe | Registered: 09 January 2009Reply With Quote
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Bill,

I waited until this Saturday morning to read your report so I could enjoy reading it in its entirty without distraction. Very nice! I have not ever given much thought to the early season hunts myself but you may have peaked my interest. Great report and pix.

Mark


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Posts: 13081 | Location: LAS VEGAS, NV USA | Registered: 04 August 2002Reply With Quote
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Bill, what can one say? YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHA from a big fan from S. Texas, you are da man!

As expected, excellent report, great pics and of course congratulations and thanks for sharing once again.
 
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Superb hunt report!!! I pity the dialup guys who couldn't appreciate all the wonderful pics. Congratulations.

Hmmm, lots of free advertising for Cabelas but not a single AR ball cap was spotted.
 
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I am embarrassed to write a report now...
Great pic, and best report ever.
Thanks


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Posts: 1366 | Location: SPARTANBURG SOUTH CAROLINA | Registered: 02 July 2008Reply With Quote
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Congratulations on a wonderful hunt. This is by far the best report I have ever read!
 
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I love your reports, Bill. Thanks a bunch for taking the time and effort, and congrats to you on your bulls.


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Bill, amazing and detailed photos. Thanks!
 
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WOW!!!!

What a trip and what a report.

Thanks for taking the time to share this with us.


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Congrats on a great trip and thanks for the superb report as usual. It was a great read with great phtos...


Good Hunting,

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Posts: 2981 | Location: Lexington, KY | Registered: 13 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Congratulations

Most perfect report and very lively. It brings fond memories for the guys who know the country and provide ample matters for those who plan to visit the real Africa. Thanks to You we are living the hunt and feel the genuine flavour of the people and the country.
Thanks really for sharing.
jb


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Posts: 1727 | Location: France, Alsace, Saverne | Registered: 24 August 2004Reply With Quote
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Great trip report!

Do you have more pictures of Shirley? Wink
 
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Bill -- Thanks, great report. I especially enjoy all of the "setting the scene" narrative and photos. Hearing about and seeing camp life, the thrill of just getting to/from hunt spots, and the people/places really makes for a great report. Thanks for taking the time.
 
Posts: 1264 | Location: Simpsonville, SC | Registered: 25 June 2006Reply With Quote
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Great report! Makes me feel inadequate regarding mine. Thanks, it was just like being there.

JPK


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Originally posted by JPK:
Great report! Thanks, it was just like being there.

JPK


Yes, reminds me of being there. only greener.
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