Well, I worked up some loads for my 204 and primers are backing out. I was doing a ladder test and decided to stop as I didn't know what steps to take next. No sticky bolt, case head smearing, extractor marks out of the ordinary (there were a couple scratches that I did notice on all cases), etc were observed. I just stopped.

This is virgin brass and I guess I set the shoulder back a bit too much when first preping the brass as I full length resized 100 rounds of the brass. I've got an additional 900 rounds I bought from the same lot that I haven't touched yet.

So, what should I do now? Go ahead and shoot looking for high pressure indicators. Or, should I pull the bullets and put in the minimum charge weight and shoot to reform the brass? Then, partial or neck sizing the brass should be in order.

Thanks,

You've got 900 loaded rounds before the ladder?

If you've got 900 pieces of brass, I would just cream of wheat fireform, then do the load development.

Pull the bullets a little, then reseat them so they engage the rifling.

quote:

Originally posted by rcamuglia:
You've got 900 loaded rounds before the ladder?

If you've got 900 pieces of brass, I would just cream of wheat fireform, then do the load development.

Maybe I wasn't clear. I haven't even touched the additional 900 brass. They are still sitting in unopened packaging. They really have nothing to do with my problem.

I only FL sized the first 100 pieces.

As already said, pull the bullets a touch and shoot them.
The rest of the brass you have I would leave be, or if the necks are dented just run the expander ball in them enough to round them back out. New brass is at min spec usually and needs no sizing prior to use.

If you love the hobby of reloading I highly recomend the stoney point (now hornady) headspace bushing kit...about $40....it tells you everything you need to know about your brass growth after firing a couple rounds.

Without buying anything, I can tell you, if it's virgin brass, you don't need to be F/L resizing it. Or sizing it in any fashion for that matter.
As Ole Joe said, just make sure the neck is round.
Also, if the primers are backing out and staying out, your loads are too light in addition to being improperly sized.

Cycle some of the virgin brass through the gun and see if the cases are already sized enough.

Without gages you won't know and can't know anything.

First of all, how do you know that primer backout is not due to very mild loads?

Like this:



Secondly, why don't you have a cartridge headspace gage, like this:



Most of the reloaders out there don't use gages, they use various voodoo and black magic, like sizing to the shell holder and adding a mystical amount of rotation, but they really have no idea just how much they are setting back their shoulder because they don’t have a measuring device.

This is the difference between “GO” and “NO-GO”. Do you really think you are going to hit between that .006” difference by sizing to the shell holder than adding a quarter turn
.

Of course not. That’s why gages are needed.

And you don’t know just how much headspace you have until you buy a gage and find out if you actually have an issue.

Then you can figure out what to do. Until then, it is all philosophizing.

Ok, so maybe it is low pressure or a combination of both headspace and low pressure. I went back and looked at my notes and I'm about 300 fps slower than what is published for my loads.

So, how do I fix the problem? Reseat the bullets longer and continue moving up the ladder?

I'll look at purchasing some headspace gauges.

Thanks for the help guys!

As a side note, I'm shooting 40 gr Hornady V-max bullets behind TAC powder with CCI 450 primers in Winchester brass.

Looking at the Hornady book published loads are min 23.2 gr and max 25.8 gr.

Looking at the Ramshot website published loads are min 24.0 gr and max 27.0 gr.

I chose to go with the Ramshot loads and started at 24.0 gr and was moving up 0.2 gr at a time. I had shot 6 rounds (24.0, 24.2, 24.4, 24.6, 24.8 and 25.0) when I stopped, which is why I thought it was a headspace problem because of being on the upper end of the Hornady recommendations.

Additionally, the Hornady velocities are about 200 fps faster than the Ramshot velocities, but I'm about 300 fps slower than the Ramshot velocities.

Hi graybird, I was having similar problems except that my primers were backing out and then getting flattened so it is worth reading the following two threads as there might be a lot in there of use to you, there are lots of pictures as well and be sure to read right to the end of the first one as it goes off track a little in the middle:

http://forums.accuratereloadin...2511043/m/4431079701

http://forums.accuratereloadin...2511043/m/1641097031

quote:

Originally posted by graybird:
I'll look at purchasing some headspace gauges.
...

The reason most of us do not have Head Space Gauges, is because it is a complete and total waste of money for Reloading.

1. Fire Form your cases using any method you desire.
2. P-FLR those Cases. If you have just a modicum of common sense, you will not need any Head Space Gauges nor any "Thingys" to do this. (I realize the "common sense" requirement leaves out a few people on the Board.)
3. Start with beginning Loads and use the never improved upon Creighton Audette Load Development Method.
4. Fine Tune the Final Load by varying the Seating Depth which is easily accomplished by converting OCL to ODL.

If you are unfamiliar with any of the above, there is a Find Button at the top of this page which will locate the instructions for you.

Best of luck to you.

First, primers can ONLY back out the amount of loose fit in the chamber, aka "excess headspace."

All the reloader need do is adjust his FL die so the shoulders aren't moved too far back AFTER the first firing. Most new cases are a tad too short to begin with. A normal (high) pressure load will drive the case head back to the bolt face and reseat the primer. IF the pressure is excessive, the primer may not slide in as the head moves back and that results in very flattened primers.

Normal headspace min:max range is only 6-7 thou. A typical loader's "small" quarter die turn changes the shoulders some 16 thou, almost three times the full range. Using a proper gage will help get it right. In theory we can adjust the die by feel for fit when chambering the sized dases but that's very iffy in practice.

Any simple SAAMI chamber gage, from any maker, is no more than a block of steel; a simple "go-no go" device. It ONLY tells us if the loaded round should chamber in a standard chamber in any weapon ever made for that cartridge. That's okay if we expect our ammo to be handed around at the deer camp but, as reloaders, what we really want is to make our ammo match our chamber.

We certainly can't do that accurately by feel while chambering a sized case. To do it precisely demands some kind of case gage "thingy" which allows us to read the shoulder lengths, both fired and sized, in thousants. The RCBS Precision Case Mics or Hornady's LnL and Sinclair's case gages used with a dial caliper or an Innovative Technoligies shoulder gage with a dial indicator will let us do that quite accurately, for whatever change we wish.

IMHO, there is no valid reason to set fired shoulders for a bolt rifle back at all. They have (usually) expanded to match the chamber and retracted a bit already so moving back any more simply increases the rate of case stretch for each cycle. And we do want to avoid stretching as much as possible, don't we?

But, for now, you first need to make your cases fully expand and your present loads are too light to accomplish that.

It's not critical to do anything about it but I'd pull the bullets and add a tad of powder, at least hot enough to set the primers fully flush, before continueing. Otherwise all you're doing is wasting bullets while breaking in your barrel.

Voodoo?? Black magic?? Should I be hanging a dead chicken over my reloading bench?? Would that be classified as a thingie?

Personally , what I would do if the field performance (Usefull for the intended purpose ) of the 100 is satisfactory use them as is. When reloading these either expand to .220 and neck size to tight bolt closing or if possible headspace on extended bullet so cases now correctly fit chamber. Than file all this on your computer as "Reloading Learning Adventures" or "RLA" to be stealthy. roger

quote:

Originally posted by wasbeeman:
Voodoo?? Black magic?? Should I be hanging a dead chicken over my reloading bench?? Would that be classified as a thingie?

Maybe a Dead Thingy!

quote:

The reason most of us do not have Head Space Gauges, is because it is a complete and total waste of money for Reloading.

quote:

The reason most of us do not have Head Space Gauges, is because it is a complete and total waste of money for Reloading.

I guess hunters with bolt rifles are just sloppy reloaders. I consider sizing cases that require the cocking cams of the bolt to crush fit the case just sloppy reloading. On other forums you read threads where neck sizing guys can’t close the bolt on their rifle, and they are totally clueless why. Maybe function is not all that critical with this group.

Maybe it is because I shoot in highpower competition, and my ammunition must fit in a number of same caliber rifles. Maybe it is because I also shoot gas guns: M1’s, M1a’s, and AR15’s, where function and safety are extremely high priorities.

Even though I shoot match bolt rifles, I don’t want my rapid fire scores to suffer because I am having to beat my bolt handle down due to fat or over length cases. That really ruins my cadence. I don’t want jams, or slamfires in my gas guns due to over length cases. Jams lead to alibis, alibis lead to lost points, lost points mean you lose.

It is just not worth driving 2 and a half hours to shoot in a match and then ruin my score due to sloppy reloading practices.

That is why I buy gages and measure what the heck I am doing. It is also why I full length small base resize for my match rifles. I have won or placed in many matches. All of the competitors I shoot with full length resize their brass. You can ask HMs how much they set their shoulders back, and you will get an answer. And it won’t be “I partial full length resize”. I know what I do works, and so do they.

Without gages, you have not the slightest idea why it works, or does not work.

I did the search for P-FLR. The reference was interesting.

http://www.opticstalk.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=15461

Slamfire,

Thanks for the link. Some good conversation and information in there!

Slamfire, how does it feel to be perfect? Especially since you must still walk amongst us great unwashed.

quote:

Originally posted by SlamFire:
I guess hunters with bolt rifles are just sloppy reloaders. I consider sizing cases that require the cocking cams of the bolt to crush fit the case just sloppy reloading.

Actually it is the exact opposite of your thinking. Having the Case as a slight Crush Fit ensures that the Case CenterLine will be in near perfect alignment with the Chamber CenterLine. That is because the Case Head/Case Shoulder is held in a slight Compression inside the Chamber

Using any kind of Thingy to set the Case Shoulder back results in the Case being "loose" in the Chamber. On Controlled Feed rifles, the Case lays onto the lowest part of the Chamber. In Push Feed rifles, the Case is skewed to the side of the Chamber opposite the Ejector.

quote:

On other forums you read threads where neck sizing guys can’t close the bolt on their rifle, and they are totally clueless why. Maybe function is not all that critical with this group.

If it wasn't critical, they would not have mentioned it being a problem for them.

quote:

Maybe it is because I shoot in highpower competition, and my ammunition must fit in a number of same caliber rifles. Maybe it is because I also shoot gas guns: M1’s, M1a’s, and AR15’s, where function and safety are extremely high priorities.

Anyone who knows anything about semi-autos realizes they must be FLRed, or Feed problems will result. Again, no Thingys are needed to Full Length Resize a Case.

quote:

Even though I shoot match bolt rifles, I don’t want my rapid fire scores to suffer because I am having to beat my bolt handle down due to fat or over length cases. That really ruins my cadence.

Neither do I. If you want to learn a bit, no one advocating P-FLRing has said the user needs to "beat my bolt handle down due to fat or over length cases", or even suggested that was considered OK. A "Snug Fit" seems to be beyond your comprehension ability.

quote:

I don’t want jams, or slamfires in my gas guns due to over length cases. Jams lead to alibis, alibis lead to lost points, lost points mean you lose.

That is why Cases used in semi-autos should be FLRed. No Thingy needed. By the way, there are other Bench Rest shooters on this Board, you are not the first. But, they do understand Reloading much better than you appear to.

quote:

That is why I buy gages and measure what the heck I am doing. It is also why I full length small base resize for my match rifles.

No Thingys needed unless you just want to toss money away and stimulate the economy.

quote:

I have won or placed in many matches.

Me too. And I could not possibly find it in myself to care less.

quote:

All of the competitors I shoot with full length resize their brass. You can ask HMs how much they set their shoulders back, and you will get an answer. And it won’t be “I partial full length resize”. I know what I do works, and so do they.

You should use whatever Method you desire. However, when unnecessary bologna is handed out here, you can expect to be called on it.

quote:

Without gages, you have not the slightest idea why it works, or does not work.

And totally WRONG again.

quote:

I did the search for P-FLR. The reference was interesting.

Yes, you have a LOT to learn.

quote:

Originally posted by SlamFire:

quote:

The reason most of us do not have Head Space Gauges, is because it is a complete and total waste of money for Reloading.

I guess hunters with bolt rifles are just sloppy reloaders. I consider sizing cases that require the cocking cams of the bolt to crush fit the case just sloppy reloading. On other forums you read threads where neck sizing guys can’t close the bolt on their rifle, and they are totally clueless why. Maybe function is not all that critical with this group.

Maybe it is because I shoot in highpower competition, and my ammunition must fit in a number of same caliber rifles. Maybe it is because I also shoot gas guns: M1’s, M1a’s, and AR15’s, where function and safety are extremely high priorities.

Even though I shoot match bolt rifles, I don’t want my rapid fire scores to suffer because I am having to beat my bolt handle down due to fat or over length cases. That really ruins my cadence. I don’t want jams, or slamfires in my gas guns due to over length cases. Jams lead to alibis, alibis lead to lost points, lost points mean you lose.

It is just not worth driving 2 and a half hours to shoot in a match and then ruin my score due to sloppy reloading practices.

That is why I buy gages and measure what the heck I am doing. It is also why I full length small base resize for my match rifles. I have won or placed in many matches. All of the competitors I shoot with full length resize their brass. You can ask HMs how much they set their shoulders back, and you will get an answer. And it won’t be “I partial full length resize”. I know what I do works, and so do they.

Without gages, you have not the slightest idea why it works, or does not work.

I did the search for P-FLR. The reference was interesting.

http://www.opticstalk.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=15461

That is an excellent link slamfire! That sakomato really knows his stuff!

HC, you need to go read that thread on OpticsTalk, here is another thread where sakomato gets it right!

If you haven't guessed by now HC, I post there as sakomato.

I agree with slamfire and you. With slamfire in that you need to eventually acquire gauges to understand what is going on in your chamber and with you in that you can PFLR without gauges. But look, do you want to be one of those drivers who get in their truck and turn the key and just drive or do you want to be one who knows why the key started the car, what to do if the key doesn't start it (check for loose connection at the battery etc.)

IOW, HC you are just muddling along doing it the way you always have because it works, but you don't know why and can't check dimensions on your case if you have a problem. Sorta like your truck not starting and just calling somebody to come fix it rather than having a set of jumper cables or tools to tighten battery cables.

Jim C..<>< has it right, it is best to know what your are doing and why rather than just blindly doing it. slamfire is correct also although I have never had any use for Wilson Gauges.

Dead Chicken Thingy? Do I need one? Explain their function again.

quote:

Additionally, the Hornady velocities are about 200 fps faster than the Ramshot velocities, but I'm about 300 fps slower than the Ramshot velocities.

You cant go by velocity. First, are you shooting a bolt or AR? In a bolt, pressure signs are easy to see or feel with bolt lift. AR's not as easy.See the photos of the 204 AR. KABOOM He was watching the chrono and dumping powder till she blew the head off the brass. photos of pressure

Rifle is a Weatherby Vanguard Varmint Special in 204 Ruger.

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
That sakomato really knows his stuff!

I thought some of those pictures looked familiar, along with the dial calipers.

Where is the thingy vs no thingy counter that is in the "OAL & Off the lands" thread?

quote:

Originally posted by graybird:

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
That sakomato really knows his stuff!

I thought some of those pictures looked familiar, along with the dial calipers.

Where is the thingy vs no thingy counter that is in the "OAL & Off the lands" thread?

Maybe we should call it the "Accomplished Reloaders" vs "duct tape & baling wire gang"!

AR's
kraky
Jim C. <><
slamfire
woods

dt&bw's
HC

Hey I'm winning this one!

quote:

Originally posted by graybird:
Rifle is a Weatherby Vanguard Varmint Special in 204 Ruger.

Headspace- Make 2 shims out of a soda can. Each about .004" thick, measure them. Put a hole in the center for the decapping pin. Set up/adjust your FLRS die with the shims between the shell holder and the die. Take 3 fired brass, run into die. Try in rifle. If bolt will not close, headspace is fine. Remove 1 shim, adjust die again, does bold close now, it should, but will take a little extra pressure, this is normal.This will give you an idea if dies and chamber are normal.

quote:

Originally posted by 243winxb:

quote:

Originally posted by graybird:
Rifle is a Weatherby Vanguard Varmint Special in 204 Ruger.

Headspace- Make 2 shims out of a soda can. Each about .004" thick, measure them. Put a hole in the center for the decapping pin. Set up/adjust your FLRS die with the shims between the shell holder and the die. Take 3 fired brass, run into die. Try in rifle. If bolt will not close, headspace is fine. Remove 1 shim, adjust die again, does bold close now, it should, but will take a little extra pressure, this is normal.This will give you an idea if dies and chamber are normal.

I guess I don't understand the above.

Why would the bolt not close when the brass is worked once the die is set with the two shims? Isn't this the same as a P-FLR, when you back the die out 1/8 to 1/4 turn? How would this keep the brass from allowing the bolt to close? Any why would removing one of the shims cause a crush fit?

I guess I need a bit more explaination to understand what the shims are providing.

Thanks,

Woods -

quote:

Hey I'm winning this one!

Only because you are keeping your own score. (Maybe like Billy Klinton's golf card! )

Didn't bother to look at the Link since I understand what I'm doing and how Head Space Gauges actually work.

However, I really had no idea Woods translates into sackotomatoes. Nice to be able to learn some Jap language.

quote:

That is an excellent link slamfire! That sakomato really knows his stuff!

I agree!. Keep putting the good stuff out there.

quote:

Neither do I. If you want to learn a bit, no one advocating P-FLRing has said the user needs to "beat my bolt handle down due to fat or over length cases", or even suggested that was considered OK. A "Snug Fit" seems to be beyond your comprehension ability

Why the heck would I ever want “ a snug fit”? I never want a snug fit. I want the bolt to close without any resistance.

quote:

That is why Cases used in semi-autos should be FLRed. No Thingy needed.

Only half right. Did you ever break Marksman class? Posts like this only reveal how little you know.

quote:

By the way, there are other Bench Rest shooters on this Board, you are not the first. But, they do understand Reloading much better than you appear to.

I don’t shoot bench rest. I don’t shoot one of these.




Bench resters will see things that will never appear in a hand held rifle. I shoot a hand held rifle.

All I have to do to win is shoot 2 MOA all the way out to six. It’s simple, 2 MOA and 800 points. Next time you do that, just post the date and the tournament. That way we can all congratulate you on your superhuman shooting abilities.

quote:

Originally posted by graybird:

quote:

Originally posted by 243winxb:

quote:

Originally posted by graybird:
Rifle is a Weatherby Vanguard Varmint Special in 204 Ruger.

Headspace- Make 2 shims out of a soda can. Each about .004" thick, measure them. Put a hole in the center for the decapping pin. Set up/adjust your FLRS die with the shims between the shell holder and the die. Take 3 fired brass, run into die. Try in rifle. If bolt will not close, headspace is fine. Remove 1 shim, adjust die again, does bold close now, it should, but will take a little extra pressure, this is normal.This will give you an idea if dies and chamber are normal.

I guess I don't understand the above.

Why would the bolt not close when the brass is worked once the die is set with the two shims? Isn't this the same as a P-FLR, when you back the die out 1/8 to 1/4 turn? How would this keep the brass from allowing the bolt to close? Any why would removing one of the shims cause a crush fit?

I guess I need a bit more explaination to understand what the shims are providing.

Thanks,

Yes, same as P-FLRS ing. The shims provide a more exact adjustment, compared to backing the dies out 1/8 or 1/4 turn. Follow this link, is will explain chambers and headspacing better than i can. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx...pace_and_Maximum_COL

quote:

Originally posted by 243winxb:

quote:

Originally posted by graybird:

quote:

Originally posted by 243winxb:

quote:

Originally posted by graybird:
Rifle is a Weatherby Vanguard Varmint Special in 204 Ruger.

Headspace- Make 2 shims out of a soda can. Each about .004" thick, measure them. Put a hole in the center for the decapping pin. Set up/adjust your FLRS die with the shims between the shell holder and the die. Take 3 fired brass, run into die. Try in rifle. If bolt will not close, headspace is fine. Remove 1 shim, adjust die again, does bold close now, it should, but will take a little extra pressure, this is normal.This will give you an idea if dies and chamber are normal.

I guess I don't understand the above.

Why would the bolt not close when the brass is worked once the die is set with the two shims? Isn't this the same as a P-FLR, when you back the die out 1/8 to 1/4 turn? How would this keep the brass from allowing the bolt to close? Any why would removing one of the shims cause a crush fit?

I guess I need a bit more explaination to understand what the shims are providing.

Thanks,

Yes, same as P-FLRS ing. The shims provide a more exact adjustment, compared to backing the dies out 1/8 or 1/4 turn. Follow this link, is will explain chambers and headspacing better than i can. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx...pace_and_Maximum_COL

Ok thanks! I read on one of the other links that one person used 1/8" washers between the die locking nut and the press, which would serve the same purpose. Allowing you to set your die for FLR and add the washer if you wanted to just P-FLR, which would remove the need to adjust or reset your die depending upon your desired want/need.

Thanks again!

quote:

Originally posted by 243winxb:
Follow this link, is will explain chambers and headspacing better than i can. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx...pace_and_Maximum_COL

Hot Core,

Please don't look at this link or you might internally combust!!!

Too many thingies!!!

Just playing Hot Core!!!

Well, I looked at the link and am a little confused about this

quote:

Sizer die setting for minimum headspace
The easy way to size to a fired case is with a neck sizing die that does not contact the case body. However, one of the rifles I handload for is a lever action Browning that lacks the mechanical advantage of a bolt action rifle when extracting. This means I need to full length resized handloads for this application. Normally a die would be adjusted down until it touched the case neck, and maybe a 1/4 turn more, but the force required to run a full length resizing die down over a cartridge does not permit this approach. I back off the sizer die, run the ram to the top, put a feeler gauge between the die and the shell holder, then turn the die in until it just makes contact with the feeler gauge. In this case a .008" feeler gauge yielded a 1.629" case head space reference dimension. It is easy to start with a thicker feeler gauge and work down while checking progress with the Hornady gauge

Seems to me that putting a feeler gauge in between the shell holder and the bottom of the die would be doing the same thing as backing the die back up the width of the feeler gauge. That is a sure recipe for creating a severe crush fit if I ever saw one. And since when does sizing a case at the camming over position of being adjusted an additional 1/4 turn in become impossible?

Am I missing something here?

HC help me out! You might have to think a little bit but you can do it.

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
Well, I ... am ... confused

HC help me out! You might have to think a little bit but you can do it.

Hey SackOTomatoes, I'd be glad to help you out, but "Fortunately" GrayBird Warned me about all the "Thingys"(or Thingies) in the link.

Surely 243WinXB will jump back in to provide the clarification.
-----

Normally a die would be adjusted down until it touched the case neck, and maybe a 1/4 turn more, but the force required to run a full length resizing die down over a cartridge does not permit this approach. The "Force required blah, blah ... does not permit this approach." Had to be written by jeffee, teenScum, tomek, seafire or gibson. You can crush a Case with even the old El Cheapo Lee($9.95 at the time) cast "C-press".
-----

It appears the "scribe" used a 0.008" Feeler Gauge between the top of the Shell Holder and the Bottom of the FLR Die. The "1.629" case head space reference dimension" must be another one of those completely useless Thingy measurements. Now that he has that 1.629" measurement, it is a useful as obummer.

Just sitting here thinking about a Feeler Gauge being used "only on one side" of the Die. That should have you Thingy users in a complete dither. Looks like it would toss you all into the "Case Neck Run-Out" Quivering, Measuring, Straightening, Re-Measuring, ReStraightening,(Re-Re-etc. for hours) and Whining Mode.

Meanwhile the rest of us common sense folks will P-FLR for our Bolt Actions, FLR for the semi-autos/pumps, totally ignore Thingys and go shoot well below 1MOA.

"Duct tape and baling wire" That's how I keep my old truck running even though I haven't a degree in mechanical engineering.

I much prefer the term: "a rock and a rusty nail" to describe my style of reloading.

quote:

Originally posted by SlamFire:
Did you ever break Marksman class? Posts like this only reveal how little you know. ....to win is shoot 2 MOA all the way out to six. It’s simple, 2 MOA and 800 points. Next time you do that, just post the date and the tournament. That way we can all congratulate you on your superhuman shooting abilities.

I do believe that sounds a bit "negative" about my shooting abilities.

If I mention how well "I used to shoot", there is a group of folks here who do not like bragging and tend to get upset when I can outdo them. Talked to a buddy last night(who is following these threads) and he mentioned teenScum (and jeffee though he wasn't mentioned) follow me around like a Tail(or something just below it) following a Dog.

I certainly can not shoot as precisely as I did 30-50 years ago. But at the same time I never bothered taping a hunk of Cardboard to my head when I shot. That is such a fine picture of you.

I'd guess I've shot more rounds through an M14 (many in competition) than you have shot Total Rounds in your entire life. They are indeed, excellent well designed rifles which have also pulled my bacon out of some tight places.

No need for you to feel so sorry about your shooting though. Just be thankful I'm not there laughing at you.

quote:

Originally posted by wasbeeman:
"a rock and a rusty nail" to describe my style of reloading.

Bragger!!!

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:

quote:

Originally posted by SlamFire:
Did you ever break Marksman class? Posts like this only reveal how little you know. ....to win is shoot 2 MOA all the way out to six. It’s simple, 2 MOA and 800 points. Next time you do that, just post the date and the tournament. That way we can all congratulate you on your superhuman shooting abilities.

I do believe that sounds a bit "negative" about my shooting abilities.

If I mention how well "I used to shoot", there is a group of folks here who do not like bragging and tend to get upset when I can outdo them. Talked to a buddy last night(who is following these threads) and he mentioned teenScum (and jeffee though he wasn't mentioned) follow me around like a Tail(or something just below it) following a Dog.

I certainly can not shoot as precisely as I did 30-50 years ago. But at the same time I never bothered taping a hunk of Cardboard to my head when I shot. That is such a fine picture of you.

I'd guess I've shot more rounds through an M14 (many in competition) than you have shot Total Rounds in your entire life. They are indeed, excellent well designed rifles which have also pulled my bacon out of some tight places.

No need for you to feel so sorry about your shooting though. Just be thankful I'm not there laughing at you.

Hotsh#t

You old butt shooter, blue dot boy, innerd shifter, fly shooter, Berger bullet boy, Ricochet man and BB gun boy,

Good to see that you are around still I was wondering if the job at Marlin was keeping you so busy that you couldn't share your

with us. Seems like the fantasies are still alive Glenn, and that is pitiful. Your
here is never supported by any proof other than your word and we know what a cesspool that is. I'm waiting to hear the wonderful stories about the 1,000's of Whitetails taken and the wonderful competition shooting you "used to do". Apparently the lights aren't on enough for you to understand that nobody believes your anymore.

It's fun to listen to how much you embarrass yourself but nobody believes anything you say. So Sorry old man.