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One Of Us |
Rough in the depth at the range with a coarse file, but don’t worry too much with how it looks, just work on getting the depth right. Remove the rear sight and use one of those Lansky knife sharpeners to clean up your rough file cut. It is much more accurate than free-handing it with a file, and the cutting is much easier to control. Moreover, you can cut both sides of the “V†with a consistent angle. The 17.5 degree setting seems to work perfectly. It provides enough angle on top of the sight that glare will not be a problem. | ||
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One of Us |
Now that's what I call a sharp idea. Makes one wonder why THEY didn't think about it. SCI Life Member NRA Patron Life Member DRSS | |||
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One of Us |
I use the same jig/stones for my knives, it seems as if it works quite well doing your sight adjustments-nice job! | |||
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new member |
Thank's for the tip. I'd like to try this on my rifle. Did you use the basic set with the course, medium and fine stones? You set the angle on the holder at 17.5 degrees? How is the sight held for stoning? Is it sodered or expoied to the metal base plate then it looks lkie it's clamped with the holder? I would really appreciate a kinda step by step detail of the process as it gives a real professional looking result. | |||
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One of Us |
Ya, what 375 said- how about a step by step procedure. Thanks. | |||
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Moderator |
Great tip, the sight really looks nice and it appears to be even somewhat moderately idiot proof. for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside | |||
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Moderator |
GREAT TIP opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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One of Us |
Amazing, or not, how many of us are using that Recknagel express sight now! | |||
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One Of Us |
375 - The sight base is not long enough or thin enough to allow the jig from Lansky to clamp to it. You'll need to clamp the jig to something rigid. I happened to have a 1" piece of aluminum and used that. Anything flat that will fit in the Lansky jig should work fine. You could glue the sight down, but that's not really necessary. If you clamp the jig in a vise, then you'll have a free hand to hold the sight while you work on it. Okay, step-by-step. After you've filed the bottom of the sight to the correct depth at the range, use a set of calipers to measure the height you want on the outside of the "V". You can make it shallow or deep or somewhere in between. Just measure from the bottom of the sight up each outside edge and make a mark with a razor blade or something sharp. This will give you a reference point on the outside edge of the sight to file down to and ensure that you keep both sides and angles of the “V†symmetrical. I use a small file (needle file) to get both sides of the "V" straight (from the center bottom, to the outside tops). After you get it close with the file, you can slowly clean up the file marks with the stones, or you could use the stones only. I used the medium only. I don't see why you couldn't start with the course stone, but the medium should give you the correct finish on the top of the sight. The Lansky will give you a good angle to avoid glare, but this isn't an area where you would want a mirror finish – so I don’t see a need to use the finer stones. Hopefully, that fills in some gaps. Just go slowly and take off a little at a time... you shouldn't be able to really go too wrong. | |||
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new member |
Thank's for the further information. I see now how this works and I am going to give it a try on a single standing blade sight for my Kimber .416 Rigby African. When filed up, I'll take it to my gunmaker to have a gold center line inlet, matted front surface, and rust blued. Set for 50 yards with 400gr solids at 2400 fps will do nicely. | |||
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