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Help needed with removing epoxy
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I purchased a shotgun today and whoever glued on the front sight post let the glue/epoxy run down the barrel. Is there a way to remove the excess glue without taking the finish of the barrel off? Its only a cosmetic issue but i'd like to clean it up if there is a way.
 
Posts: 19 | Registered: 12 October 2014Reply With Quote
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If the barrel where the epoxy has run had not been de-greased it maybe possible to peel the glue away with a plastic scaper, not metal which will scratch the finish. A little judicious application of heat to the epoxy would help to soften it enough to break free. This is how I have removed scope bases glued and screwed with epoxy, the action finish is not affected with the epoxy I use but others may react with the finish. If the run away epoxy is joined to that under the sight base, careful separation needs to be done with a razor blade or surgical blade so the sight is not removed as well.
 
Posts: 3944 | Location: Rolleston, Christchurch, New Zealand | Registered: 03 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Acetone.
 
Posts: 481 | Location: Midwest USA | Registered: 14 November 2008Reply With Quote
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Thanks!
 
Posts: 19 | Registered: 12 October 2014Reply With Quote
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How did the clean up go?
 
Posts: 3944 | Location: Rolleston, Christchurch, New Zealand | Registered: 03 August 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by bigred6695:
I purchased a shotgun today and whoever glued on the front sight post let the glue/epoxy run down the barrel. Is there a way to remove the excess glue without taking the finish of the barrel off? Its only a cosmetic issue but i'd like to clean it up if there is a way.


Bigred,

Did you really buy a shotgun or do you live/work in Egypt? Smiler Smiler

Beard of Egypt's King Tut Hastily Glued Back on With Epoxy

Another museum conservator, who was present at the time of the repair, said that epoxy had dried on the face of the boy king's mask and that a colleague used a spatula to remove it, leaving scratches. The first conservator, who inspects the artifact regularly, confirmed the scratches and said it was clear that they had been made by a tool used to scrape off the epoxy.


Sorry Red, saw your title and couldn't help myself!


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7786 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to buy a heat gun or acetone, but I should be able to do so tomorrow. I'll let you all know how it goes.

Mark, maybe I bought a shotgun and live in egypt!
 
Posts: 19 | Registered: 12 October 2014Reply With Quote
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Do you have a propane torch? If you do, go easy. I would not buy a heat gun just for removing epoxy.
 
Posts: 17442 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Yes I do. I'll try that. I'm going to take before and after pictures. Its pretty funny how bad of a job they did. I guess I shouldn't make fun though because I've never installed a sight before. maybe I'll practice on my 870
 
Posts: 19 | Registered: 12 October 2014Reply With Quote
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Do not use a propane torch, way too much heat and impossible to control. Use a Weller(or other brand), soldering gun, applied directly to the epoxy that you wish to remove!
 
Posts: 386 | Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada | Registered: 01 February 2006Reply With Quote
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Really? I use a propane torch for this and everything else. Of course you can't over heat it; just feather the heat in. Impossible to control; no, easy to control.
 
Posts: 17442 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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I use a Kitchen propane torch, the one the chefs use to melt brown suger in a spoon..very small flame and easy direct..I use it for lots of stuff, like mount screws that are glassed in or someone used red locktite you can direct that small flame directly on the screw head.

I use it for a multitude of stuff even on my ropes when I tie off the end in a crown, then melt the access and that knot will never come undone.

I have two torches, one the size of a pencil and the other about the size of a chiefs special 38.... beer


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42314 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Atkinson:
I use a Kitchen propane torch, the one the chefs use to melt brown suger in a spoon..very small flame and easy direct..I use it for lots of stuff, like mount screws that are glassed in or someone used red locktite you can direct that small flame directly on the screw head.

I use it for a multitude of stuff even on my ropes when I tie off the end in a crown, then melt the access and that knot will never come undone.

I have two torches, one the size of a pencil and the other about the size of a chiefs special 38.... beer


I trust you don't get your torches mixed up then Ray Big Grin
 
Posts: 3944 | Location: Rolleston, Christchurch, New Zealand | Registered: 03 August 2009Reply With Quote
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I have only one torch; the size of a Desert Eagle .50 caliber. Actually, I do have one of the tiny butane torches; I use for soldering car wiring connectors. Not for gun work; too small.
 
Posts: 17442 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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The man is talking about removing epoxy that is immediately beside, and actually connected to, a front sight that has been attached to the barrel with the same epoxy. You are going to remove that epoxy, with a propane torch, without also degrading the adhesion of the epoxy that is holding the sight to the barrel?

You're a better man than I, Gunga Din!
 
Posts: 386 | Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada | Registered: 01 February 2006Reply With Quote
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I would wrap the sight in a wet cloth and turn the torch down to the lowest level that would still burn. Works for me


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Ah, if the front sight is glued on, then don't use heat at all. What moron recommended that anyway? Wait, that was me.
Actually, I would remove it all and start over, soldering it on. I didn't read that part, but I usually answer before reading the question. Faster for me that way.
 
Posts: 17442 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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If it is blackmax loctite, acetone isn't going to do jack .. and if you acetone anything, oil it right after being finished.


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

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What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
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Posts: 40232 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Would moderate heat (50-80 C) followed by acetone work? A wet cloth on the bead and maybe an iceblock in the muzzle might keep that part from loosening, for a short time.
 
Posts: 5188 | Location: Melbourne, Australia | Registered: 31 March 2009Reply With Quote
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I'm not a gun guy, but I have cleaned up a lot of epoxy. This is what I use. It might work for you.
I make a tiny chisel out of copper. Sharpen and polish it. Heat the tip pretty hot and gently push up the epoxy. Reheat and resharpen as necessary.
Take your time and it won't mark the blue and you can't overheat your sight.
mike
 
Posts: 350 | Location: oklahoma | Registered: 01 August 2006Reply With Quote
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I finally got around to working on this project. I purchased a heat gun from harbor frieght for 15 bucks. I tried a brass punch, an old gift card and finally a 45 ACP casing and the casing worked best. I finished up the job with some Flitz polish on my dremel's buffer wheel. I think it came out great. Thanks for all the help! Now I can finally start refinishing the wood stock on my 11-87. Here are some pictures.





 
Posts: 19 | Registered: 12 October 2014Reply With Quote
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Ok...i'm not sure how to post the pictures. It wont let me browse. I tried putting the file location and nothing happened
 
Posts: 19 | Registered: 12 October 2014Reply With Quote
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There is one product that will remove any epoxy based adhesive or bedding compound without harming a metal finish. It will however remove stock finishes as easily as the epoxy, keep it clear of any wood or plastic components. It will likely dissolve plastic magazines, trigger guards, etc.

http://www.wmbarr.com/product....catid=102&prodid=209 It's available at ACE Hardware, Home Depot, Lowe's, or any paint store.

I use this stuff almost every time I bed a stock, because invariably there will be a dot or small drip, or a smear where my gloves transferred some to the barrel. It doesn't matter how carefully I work, or how much blue tape and release agent I use, Murphy accompanies me as soon as I begin mixing the stuff. This stuff dissolves it or softens it enough to scrape it away with a sharpened Popsicle stick.

The active ingredient is Dichloromethane {Methylene chloride; R-30;Freon 30} it also contains methyl alcohol, so it's poisonous. Wear gloves or apply it with a small paint brush, and don't breathe too much vapor. However doing a small area on a rifle splotch isn't going to require more than a dab of the stuff. Straight Methylene chloride would work too, but the stuff is so volatile it evaporates alost immediately. Jasco's product is a gel which reduces evaporation. A pint can will last a long time.
 
Posts: 56 | Registered: 27 December 2010Reply With Quote
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That Jasco stuff works great for removing Duracoat too.
 
Posts: 150 | Registered: 03 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Wrangler John:
There is one product that will remove any epoxy based adhesive or bedding compound without harming a metal finish. It will however remove stock finishes as easily as the epoxy, keep it clear of any wood or plastic components. It will likely dissolve plastic magazines, trigger guards, etc.

http://www.wmbarr.com/product....catid=102&prodid=209 It's available at ACE Hardware, Home Depot, Lowe's, or any paint store.

I use this stuff almost every time I bed a stock, because invariably there will be a dot or small drip, or a smear where my gloves transferred some to the barrel. It doesn't matter how carefully I work, or how much blue tape and release agent I use, Murphy accompanies me as soon as I begin mixing the stuff. This stuff dissolves it or softens it enough to scrape it away with a sharpened Popsicle stick.

The active ingredient is Dichloromethane {Methylene chloride; R-30;Freon 30} it also contains methyl alcohol, so it's poisonous. Wear gloves or apply it with a small paint brush, and don't breathe too much vapor. However doing a small area on a rifle splotch isn't going to require more than a dab of the stuff. Straight Methylene chloride would work too, but the stuff is so volatile it evaporates alost immediately. Jasco's product is a gel which reduces evaporation. A pint can will last a long time.


OK, it won't harm the metal but what about the bluing?

I bedded a rifle years ago and got some compound inside the stamped lettering on the barrel. I've tried heat (gun&torch) to get it out and never had any luck so I left it alone.


--------------------------------------------

Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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