Help needed with removing epoxy

23 January 2015, 08:36

bigred6695

I purchased a shotgun today and whoever glued on the front sight post let the glue/epoxy run down the barrel. Is there a way to remove the excess glue without taking the finish of the barrel off? Its only a cosmetic issue but i'd like to clean it up if there is a way.

23 January 2015, 13:39

eagle27

If the barrel where the epoxy has run had not been de-greased it maybe possible to peel the glue away with a plastic scaper, not metal which will scratch the finish. A little judicious application of heat to the epoxy would help to soften it enough to break free. This is how I have removed scope bases glued and screwed with epoxy, the action finish is not affected with the epoxy I use but others may react with the finish. If the run away epoxy is joined to that under the sight base, careful separation needs to be done with a razor blade or surgical blade so the sight is not removed as well.

23 January 2015, 19:33

Lapidary

Acetone.

23 January 2015, 19:40

bigred6695

Thanks!

27 January 2015, 10:32

eagle27

How did the clean up go?

27 January 2015, 21:55

Mark

quote:
Originally posted by bigred6695:
I purchased a shotgun today and whoever glued on the front sight post let the glue/epoxy run down the barrel. Is there a way to remove the excess glue without taking the finish of the barrel off? Its only a cosmetic issue but i'd like to clean it up if there is a way.

Bigred,

Did you really buy a shotgun or do you live/work in Egypt?

Beard of Egypt's King Tut Hastily Glued Back on With Epoxy

Another museum conservator, who was present at the time of the repair, said that epoxy had dried on the face of the boy king's mask and that a colleague used a spatula to remove it, leaving scratches. The first conservator, who inspects the artifact regularly, confirmed the scratches and said it was clear that they had been made by a tool used to scrape off the epoxy.

Sorry Red, saw your title and couldn't help myself!

27 January 2015, 23:00

bigred6695

Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to buy a heat gun or acetone, but I should be able to do so tomorrow. I'll let you all know how it goes.

Mark, maybe I bought a shotgun and live in egypt!

28 January 2015, 00:08

dpcd

Do you have a propane torch? If you do, go easy. I would not buy a heat gun just for removing epoxy.

28 January 2015, 02:00

bigred6695

Yes I do. I'll try that. I'm going to take before and after pictures. Its pretty funny how bad of a job they did. I guess I shouldn't make fun though because I've never installed a sight before. maybe I'll practice on my 870

28 January 2015, 19:50

ron vella

Do not use a propane torch, way too much heat and impossible to control. Use a Weller(or other brand), soldering gun, applied directly to the epoxy that you wish to remove!

28 January 2015, 20:45

dpcd

Really? I use a propane torch for this and everything else. Of course you can't over heat it; just feather the heat in. Impossible to control; no, easy to control.

28 January 2015, 22:16

Atkinson

I use a Kitchen propane torch, the one the chefs use to melt brown suger in a spoon..very small flame and easy direct..I use it for lots of stuff, like mount screws that are glassed in or someone used red locktite you can direct that small flame directly on the screw head.

I use it for a multitude of stuff even on my ropes when I tie off the end in a crown, then melt the access and that knot will never come undone.

I have two torches, one the size of a pencil and the other about the size of a chiefs special 38....

28 January 2015, 22:45

eagle27

quote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:
I use a Kitchen propane torch, the one the chefs use to melt brown suger in a spoon..very small flame and easy direct..I use it for lots of stuff, like mount screws that are glassed in or someone used red locktite you can direct that small flame directly on the screw head.

I use it for a multitude of stuff even on my ropes when I tie off the end in a crown, then melt the access and that knot will never come undone.

I have two torches, one the size of a pencil and the other about the size of a chiefs special 38....

I trust you don't get your torches mixed up then Ray

28 January 2015, 23:06

dpcd

I have only one torch; the size of a Desert Eagle .50 caliber. Actually, I do have one of the tiny butane torches; I use for soldering car wiring connectors. Not for gun work; too small.

29 January 2015, 02:15

ron vella

The man is talking about removing epoxy that is immediately beside, and actually connected to, a front sight that has been attached to the barrel with the same epoxy. You are going to remove that epoxy, with a propane torch, without also degrading the adhesion of the epoxy that is holding the sight to the barrel?

You're a better man than I, Gunga Din!

29 January 2015, 02:22

ramrod340

I would wrap the sight in a wet cloth and turn the torch down to the lowest level that would still burn. Works for me

29 January 2015, 02:48

dpcd

Ah, if the front sight is glued on, then don't use heat at all. What moron recommended that anyway? Wait, that was me.
Actually, I would remove it all and start over, soldering it on. I didn't read that part, but I usually answer before reading the question. Faster for me that way.

29 January 2015, 02:54

jeffeosso

If it is blackmax loctite, acetone isn't going to do jack .. and if you acetone anything, oil it right after being finished.

30 January 2015, 07:20

sambarman338

Would moderate heat (50-80 C) followed by acetone work? A wet cloth on the bead and maybe an iceblock in the muzzle might keep that part from loosening, for a short time.

30 January 2015, 15:54

lost okie

I'm not a gun guy, but I have cleaned up a lot of epoxy. This is what I use. It might work for you.
I make a tiny chisel out of copper. Sharpen and polish it. Heat the tip pretty hot and gently push up the epoxy. Reheat and resharpen as necessary.
Take your time and it won't mark the blue and you can't overheat your sight.
mike

22 February 2015, 08:48

bigred6695

I finally got around to working on this project. I purchased a heat gun from harbor frieght for 15 bucks. I tried a brass punch, an old gift card and finally a 45 ACP casing and the casing worked best. I finished up the job with some Flitz polish on my dremel's buffer wheel. I think it came out great. Thanks for all the help! Now I can finally start refinishing the wood stock on my 11-87. Here are some pictures.

22 February 2015, 08:49

bigred6695

Ok...i'm not sure how to post the pictures. It wont let me browse. I tried putting the file location and nothing happened

23 February 2015, 17:27

Wrangler John

There is one product that will remove any epoxy based adhesive or bedding compound without harming a metal finish. It will however remove stock finishes as easily as the epoxy, keep it clear of any wood or plastic components. It will likely dissolve plastic magazines, trigger guards, etc.

http://www.wmbarr.com/product....catid=102&prodid=209 It's available at ACE Hardware, Home Depot, Lowe's, or any paint store.

I use this stuff almost every time I bed a stock, because invariably there will be a dot or small drip, or a smear where my gloves transferred some to the barrel. It doesn't matter how carefully I work, or how much blue tape and release agent I use, Murphy accompanies me as soon as I begin mixing the stuff. This stuff dissolves it or softens it enough to scrape it away with a sharpened Popsicle stick.

The active ingredient is Dichloromethane {Methylene chloride; R-30;Freon 30} it also contains methyl alcohol, so it's poisonous. Wear gloves or apply it with a small paint brush, and don't breathe too much vapor. However doing a small area on a rifle splotch isn't going to require more than a dab of the stuff. Straight Methylene chloride would work too, but the stuff is so volatile it evaporates alost immediately. Jasco's product is a gel which reduces evaporation. A pint can will last a long time.

26 February 2015, 23:08

marshmandan

That Jasco stuff works great for removing Duracoat too.

28 February 2015, 17:37

TC1

quote:
Originally posted by Wrangler John:
There is one product that will remove any epoxy based adhesive or bedding compound without harming a metal finish. It will however remove stock finishes as easily as the epoxy, keep it clear of any wood or plastic components. It will likely dissolve plastic magazines, trigger guards, etc.

http://www.wmbarr.com/product....catid=102&prodid=209 It's available at ACE Hardware, Home Depot, Lowe's, or any paint store.

I use this stuff almost every time I bed a stock, because invariably there will be a dot or small drip, or a smear where my gloves transferred some to the barrel. It doesn't matter how carefully I work, or how much blue tape and release agent I use, Murphy accompanies me as soon as I begin mixing the stuff. This stuff dissolves it or softens it enough to scrape it away with a sharpened Popsicle stick.

The active ingredient is Dichloromethane {Methylene chloride; R-30;Freon 30} it also contains methyl alcohol, so it's poisonous. Wear gloves or apply it with a small paint brush, and don't breathe too much vapor. However doing a small area on a rifle splotch isn't going to require more than a dab of the stuff. Straight Methylene chloride would work too, but the stuff is so volatile it evaporates alost immediately. Jasco's product is a gel which reduces evaporation. A pint can will last a long time.

OK, it won't harm the metal but what about the bluing?

I bedded a rifle years ago and got some compound inside the stamped lettering on the barrel. I've tried heat (gun&torch) to get it out and never had any luck so I left it alone.