The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Corrosion Protection In Humid And Salty Environment - Photos AddedGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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Looking forward to the results. | |||
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Saeed,The stainless experiment will be interesting. In the pic below are a small selection of stainless bbl ends. I often see these when they have been 'through the mill'. These examples are probably Tikka and Sako on the right and they all get little pin holes of rust. The true stainless (which machine like proper stainless steel) are the two Rugers on the left. Enjoying your experiment, a lot of work for you, thanks. jc [URL=  ][img]https:/ | |||
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So, Melonite was mentioned. What have you found? | |||
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I really enjoy these tests. Picked up a tub of coconut oil to try out. If it doesn't work I'll use it for french fries.  | |||
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I use that coconut oil for skin care and soap making. Use it for protection of bare skin, such as the nose and lips in extreme cold. Provides a layer of protection against frost bite. Maybe a survival thing. Packy | |||
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similar test. Some products perfromed better and some worse than in Saeed's test. Failure = corrosion forming link to whole article http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667  Mike Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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Cosmoline; if you try that, I guarantee it will win. I have rifle and Jeep and Dodge Truck parts from WW2 stored with it and there is no rust and never will be. Even under water. | |||
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Very true! You could waterproof anything with it. Until you want to actually use the gun.. Doug Wilhelmi NRA Life Member | |||
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bump | |||
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Ok - I would like to push this to the next level. Now I know what CLP stands for - Clean, Lubricate & Protect! I thought it was some special ingredient!  Here are some observations. 1. Saeed's test is a preservative test for long term storage under very harsh conditions (50% salt solution spray). In other words it is just the "P" in the "CLP" 2. It does not tell us anything about cleaning, removing rust, copper fouling or carbon fouling 3. It does not tell us anything about lubrication 4. Some of the products used in Saeed's test are not designed for use on guns. They are industrial products - specially designed for use in marine conditions etc. Hence they are very tacky, and not suitable for lubrication. Purely in the "P" category. 5. I am also not sure if they are difficult to remove before using the gun on a hunt. Will they stick to the gun parts and trigger assembly, bolt etc? Will they accumulate dirt, grit etc and end up galling or seizing the gun or cause the trigger / seer assembly to malfunction? I have seen this happen. Regular use of CRC will build up a thick brown sticky goo that interferes with moving parts. 6. It would be interesting if a test can be done to determine what is the best product for (a) removing copper, (b) for removing carbon and (c) for lubrication - In other words for "C" & "L" in the CLP. 7. Finally the question - is there one single CLP product for the lay man gun owner (not a target shooter or a high volume user) - One CLP product that is reliable for use - say once a year cleaning and storage? Here is a link of some tests on the web. I am sure there are many more - https://www.bing.com/videos/se...4602BE40927B5E856385 This one I saved a few years ago - https://www.perfectunion.com/v...-corrosion-test.html I like this one below that used 5% salt solution. It is easy to look at results. Eezox is at the top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?...inue=1&v=7eJSLPLpF5U "When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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I did this test after seeing my friend's rifles, being kept in Dar gun safe. Some of them were covered in rust like the worst examples you see in this test. Originally my intention was to test gun oils and preservatives only. Then decided to include anything I can find locally - some are actually have no use for gun owners, but, I tested them too. You will be surprised what people use as gun protection - sometimes taking what is written on the box as gospel ! Years ago we used nothing but WD40. Worked on metal, but wrecked the wood! For lubrication one needs very light oil that does not gum up - at least that is what we use and it works. The best products we have found for removing copper fouling are Sweet 7.62 and JB Compound. Anything that Sweet will not clear JB does. It just needs a bit of elbow grease! Never had a gun that could not be cleaned with JB or Sweets. | |||
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Saeed You are right in your statement as a fact but that does not make those products the best, ideal or even the most suitable for removing copper. It does not highlight some undesirable side effects. Sweets is ammonia based and it dissolves some metals and causes microscopic pits in the barrel. Barrel steel has trace metals like vanadium, chromium etc that are leached out by Sweets. Such pitting will make rusting a MUCH BIGGER PROBLEM for your friends in Dar! Here is a suggestion. If you take a cotton string soaked in Sweets and leave it for 48 hours on one of your clean rods and then check with a magnifying glass, you will see a distinct difference in the spot where the Sweets etched the metal. JB is very good and does need a lot of elbow grease. Very messy too. After 15 years of trying many products, I moved to Wipeout / Patchout with Accellerator and also a carburetor cleaner. Best all round cleaning I have experienced so far. Easy peezey. Saeed said
"When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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Here is a story about Outer's gun oil in the early 80's . I brought several Star super pistols. The one I kept for my self looked like it had a accuracy job done on it. It was very accurate one hole groups at 25 yards. Well I didn't use it much and I oiled it very well with Outer's oil wrapped it up in the shipping paper it came in. A decade plus later I took it out the oil was harded so much I could not operate it. Had to complelely field strip and clean it. No rust but it took a lot of WD-4 and elbow grease to bring it back to shooting. | |||
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This concludes my test for these. I do not think there is any reason for explanations, as everything is clear in the photos.                 | |||
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Composition of the medal makes a huge differences . I stored 3 mini-14s and 3 SKS for over 20 years in not the most favorable conditions. All 6 were treated the same way all metal parts were sprayed heavily with WD-40 to start with. To wash any handling/contamination away. All were then heavily greased to the point that all parts were completely covered with a very thick layer of high quality grease. Inside and out then wrapped and sealed. Care was taken to make sure all parts springs ect were thoroughly covered in grease. When they were finally retrieved the Mini's faired really well. Only s very small spot of rust here or there. They were useable after cleaning. The SKS were trashed for the most part. The barrel and actions were in good shape. But most of the small parts were so rusted that that literally fell apart when taken from their wrappings. The trigger assemblies had major rust all through out and springs were in pieces. All I can say it must of been quality of the metal in the parts. | |||
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Great Topic. Great test process there, Saeed. Very informative. I guess this thread is about protective COATINGS. My chemistry background suggests that most of these products were supposed to COVER the metal surfaces so moisture, oxygen, and the salt, etc were kept off the metal. And some did not do that well at all. The other choice to protect the metal surface is to use chemical reaction[s] to bind the surface atoms/molecules so they don't react further. Metal surface treatments like bluing or the Tenifer nitriding process[Glock pistols] are examples of versions of 'surface deactivation' <--my term for this. I have neighbors who work for the Coretec company. They gave me some free samples of their products, including a few storage bags lined with a vapor corrosion inhibitor, and a small container of rust remover 'towelettes'...sort of like handy wipes. the Coretec rust remover wipes worked well removing a small amount of rust from one of my rifles [hadn't used it in years ] the small storage bags were 'Ziploc-style' sealable containers with the rust inhibitor inside. I cut the bags into halves and put the pieces in my reloading die cases and some other containers. the larger bags were large enough to put rustable items in. I cut some of them up into large sheets for my rifle cabinet[even though it has a heating system in it.] Some will go to my son for his cabinet. I have not had any corrosion/rust troubles. IMHO the Coretec products are worth checking out, along with some of the other items mentioned above. | |||
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The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Corrosion Protection In Humid And Salty Environment - Photos Added
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