+100

Eezox is the best. I was given a can 20 years ago and was amazed at how good it was.

I came across a similar test done extensively and Eezox came out on top. Break Free was pretty good too.

I had the link saved and found it on the web again - https://www.perfectunion.com/v...-corrosion-test.html

I remember another such test and Eezox was pretty high up on the list.

quote:

Originally posted by bigbull:
Eezzox, It is a little bit of work to put it on but the results make it worth it, I found it to be an excellent rust protector.
BB

I really miss Lloyd. May he rest in peace. A true gentleman. Sad that the sale of his guns went sour. I wonder if his wife ever got the money.

quote:

Originally posted by JBrown:
About 6 or 8 years ago I did a similar test on a smaller scale. I treated steel scraps form Tally bolt handles and left them out in the rain. I meant to post a report here on AR but never got around to it. I used the following 5 products in the test:

Chevron Dextron ATF: horrible, looked worse than the untreated(control) sample.

Birtchwood Casey, Barricade: good

Olive Oil: good

Shooters Choice Rust preventative: Very good

Eesox: By far the best


The real surprise of the test was olive oil. It did a decent job and it has little of no unnatural odor. I wanted to try it in the test become someone here on AR recommended it as a good option for rust protection when you wanted to limit unnatural odors(I believe it was Alberta Cannuck ). He was right.

The worst for corrosion is Ammonia. Beware of ammonia based bore solvents.

I once had mould in a gun case with the mouldy smell as I was preparing for a hunt. I sprayed some household mould killer. I then packed a couple of rifle in the case for a hunt.

When I opened the case in camp the next day I was shocked to see crusty rusty spots on the rifles. One of the scope rings was really corroded and caked with rust.

I quickly cleaned the guns in camp and put on a good coat of Break Free. Once I got home I washed the foam in the case. Even the alluminium in the case edge and the rivets in the hinge were rusted. I had to drill out the rivets and put new ones.

So does this Eesox have some sort of chemical that prevents oxidation, or is it just a blanket so to speak that prevents oxygen to contact the metal?

No idea.

It is a very thin oil (the drop come out quickly like water and not slowly like most gun oils) and it forms a thin film. It is not too slippery or sticky. An oiled gun that has been stored for a long time feels quite dry.

quote:

Originally posted by lindy2:
So does this Eesox have some sort of chemical that prevents oxidation, or is it just a blanket so to speak that prevents oxygen to contact the metal?

This is how things look right now.

Thursday will be a week, and I will post the results then.

The board was left outside as you can see.

I've got a small tin of RIG supplied with Chris Reeve knives and other knife guys swear by Renaissance wax

So far looks like CorrosionX (18) and Mpro7 (19) look the best. Ballistol (21) not so much anymore

Tomorrow I will post close ups of all of these.

And start a new lot of oils.

How about Fluid Film?

John

It will be interesting to see the outcome.

I have found a number of similar test on the web and it will be interesting to compare the results and also the method of testing.

I do not intend to undermine Saeed's test. I will post some links after this test is done. No time to collect comparative data & do a chart

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
It will be interesting to see the outcome.

I have found a number of similar test on the web and it will be interesting to compare the results and also the method of testing.

I do not intend to undermine Saeed's test. I will post some links after this test is done. No time to collect comparative data & do a chart

Well, a fundamental aspect of scientific methodology is to test for repeatability of results. Looking at other test to compare results has value, independent of Saeed's tests. It wouldn't surprise me to see at least some common results from multiple studies; perhaps a few candidates are in the top 5 in multiple studies, for instance. Correlation is a good thing!

I am afraid there is no test that is going to be fool proof, but, as Doug has mentioned, certain results should come out that will give an indication which product is best.

I have specifically chosen this method and these steel rods to get quick results.

It will really be great if somone can tally results from different tests and post them.

A list of the Oils by number would be a great start to collecting the data. Maybe I overlooked it?

quote:

Originally posted by gasgunner:
How about Fluid Film?

John

Oh Yes, Fluid Film is another fantastic rust preventer but it is a thick coating that does not allow handling unlike thinner /drier coatings.
bb

I wonder if outers gets better with age.

Here is the final results after one week.

I don't think I need to explain anything, as everything looks very clear.

The last photo is of a new batch.

Would this old Outer's gun oil be the same as the current ones available?

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
The worst for corrosion is Ammonia. Beware of ammonia based bore solvents.

I once had mould in a gun case with the mouldy smell as I was preparing for a hunt. I sprayed some household mould killer. I then packed a couple of rifle in the case for a hunt.

When I opened the case in camp the next day I was shocked to see crusty rusty spots on the rifles. One of the scope rings was really corroded and caked with rust.

I quickly cleaned the guns in camp and put on a good coat of Break Free. Once I got home I washed the foam in the case. Even the alluminium in the case edge and the rivets in the hinge were rusted. I had to drill out the rivets and put new ones.

I guess ammonia is hard to mistake, Naki, but most of the mould killers I've come across seem to use chlorine - a substance I believe has a reputation for causing rust, too. You might recall a certain engine-oil additive that cut friction in the short run because of the slippery qualities of chlorine but, over time, caused corrosion.

Yes mate. However I doubt that Chlorine will cause serious pitting rust in 24 to 48 hours.

This was one of the house hold anti mould stuff used in the bathroom, kitchen etc and not Bleach (chlorine) based

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
The worst for corrosion is Ammonia. Beware of ammonia based bore solvents.

I once had mould in a gun case with the mouldy smell as I was preparing for a hunt. I sprayed some household mould killer. I then packed a couple of rifle in the case for a hunt.

When I opened the case in camp the next day I was shocked to see crusty rusty spots on the rifles. One of the scope rings was really corroded and caked with rust.

I quickly cleaned the guns in camp and put on a good coat of Break Free. Once I got home I washed the foam in the case. Even the alluminium in the case edge and the rivets in the hinge were rusted. I had to drill out the rivets and put new ones.

I guess ammonia is hard to mistake, Naki, but most of the mould killers I've come across seem to use chlorine - a substance I believe has a reputation for causing rust, too. You might recall a certain engine-oil additive that cut friction in the short run because of the slippery qualities of chlorine but, over time, caused corrosion.

Once again thanks for doing the test. In some cases it's kind of an eye opener.

Maybe those old cans of Outers gun oil many of us have floating around need to be taken more seriously!

Well, from this lot we can see that ARMOR-KOTE came in best.

It does leave a funny coat on the metal, but, for long term storage it looks like the best so far.

OUTERS 445 and M-PRO 7 seem to be very close behind.

The rest should really be avoided for long term storage.

I found three different makes of spray wax, and these are included in the next lot.

I have already coated all the rods yesterday, and have sprayed them liberally with 50/50 sea water tap water, as was done on the previous lot.

Will take photos tomorrow, and then one week later.

New lot being tested.

This is after 24 hours.

I will post the results a week from now.

Curious to see how Tru-Oil will perform. I've used it on metal to protect case color and it forms a plastic film. Fine for exterior part protection but of no use internally.

Anyone use Froglube?

Carbauna wax (Brazilian vegetable wax from a palm tree I think) is an ingredient in Truoil, Danish oil etc. It forms a film coat on metal, just like it does on car body finish. Very tough and durable.

I have use simple polyurethane on guns in India where the humidity and heat causes guns to rust in 6 hours. It gave good protection as long the original rust was removed. It just seals off air, moisture and oxygen, preventing any new rust from forming. Does not last long but adequate for a hunt in thick bush that could become wet.

My son had my cheap ‘ol blued Ruger American Predator on Kodiak for 4 1/2 days. I sprayed it down with Corrosion Block before the trip and nothing was done during the trip. Got home, opened the gun case and to my utter dismay, not a speck of rust was found.

Looking at the last pic, it appears those Pal products have the magic ingredient - but I've never seen that brand here. Boring old Vaseline seemed to do well, too.

If any more experiments are done, I'd like to see Prolix (silly name but interesting product) and anhydrous wool fat (lanoline) included.

We used to mix lanoline with Vaseline. The logic was supposedly that lanoline was the better rust preventive but that Vaseline made it more usable. However, from looking at the photo above, I wonder if Vaseline was the better preservative but the wool fat helped keep it in place. I used to leave a fair coat of wool fat on my rifle barrel when I went hunting, hoping it might cut reflections as well as corrosion. If anything it got better as the hunt went on, gathering bits of leaf litter etc .

I see corrosion protection as two separate cases. One is protection that would be used for storage but which must be removed before use, ie cosmoline. The second is something used to wipe down a firearm that would not interfere with its operation. Anyway keep up the testing, this is very interesting. If you are going to do more I would like to see some 5w20 synthetic motor oil and maybe good old cosmoline, if it is even available any more.
C.G.B.

This is the results of our second batch.

I have a nea batch being processed.

This is the last one, as I have put all the oils I have on test.

These are the last lot I have.

Saeed:

If you wish, I will send you industrial stuff, in small spray cans.

Jiri

I did not notice any Eezox in that lot. Not sure if I saw Breakfree either. Not surprise with the results of Hopes no 9.

About 45 years ago I had some left over gun grease from my dad's - probably from the early 1950 and I am sure it was from the UK. Had a very distinct smell and worked very well for long term storage and rust prevention. Very sticky and messy - dark brown with a hint of amber colour. It had a nice smell too - not flowery fragrant but it was good.

It is clear that long term storage and day to day protection are very different propositions.

quote:

Originally posted by Jiri:
Saeed:

If you wish, I will send you industrial stuff, in small spray cans.

Jiri

Thank you Jiri.

But I wanted to test what is available to us on the market and can be found in the shops.

So, the race goes on and some early leaders have come back to the field? If Vaseline has lost some of its sheen at least there's a patina rather than a crust of rust.

It would be nice to have some stainless rod involved also.

I've used Pro-Shot Gold,Pro-Gold in some rifle bores for long term protection.

quote:

Originally posted by p dog shooter:
It would be nice to have some stainless rod involved also.

Funny you mention this.

I am planning to try the same test on stainless steel rods too.

I was reading the other day that the U.S. military now vacuum bags arms for long term storage. I would think that would work great but it might not be great for a wood stock? Of course you could separate wood from metal.
C.G.B.

Is Froglube available to you for testing?

quote:

Originally posted by Recoil Rob:
Is Froglube available to you for testing?

No.