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One of Us |
I have probably bedded 10-12 700s, a couple of 77's and a 70. Never glued a stock to a rifle before. How do I remedy this without buying a $135 stock wrench? | ||
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One of Us |
Bummer. | |||
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One of Us |
Try putting in the freezer. | |||
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one of us |
I broke them apart using temperature. As Mark said freeze it and the metal will contract. Or heat it and the heat will release the bond. Extra heat can damage the epoxy so you might be starting over. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Moderator |
what's this 135 stock wrench? any idea of where it's glued in? did the epoxy "go proud" or extrude above the woodline? as the other guys have said, you can put in a freezer, at least 4 hours - what they didn't say is that if it doesn't come apart easy, you can put in some long action screws (consumable parts, at this point) and rap it with a dead blow hammer.. rap tap, not WHAM and as Paul said, if all that doesn't work, heat the action .. if you do this, IMMEDIATELY oil the metal work opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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one of us |
I brought a savage 340 22hornet that was glassed in. I found a quart of fiber glass mold release and poured some along the stock line. Did that a coup-le of times and was able to separate them in a couple of days. | |||
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One of Us |
Stock wrench is a device that leverages the metal from the wood. I suggest a hatchet. | |||
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One of Us |
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one of us |
The freezer should work unless the bedding compound got into an opening and locked the action to the stock. Dave | |||
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one of us |
Assuming you can remove the screws. I pull the fore arm away from the barrel and shove a couple of popsicle sticks to maintain pressure. Then I will warm up the action with a heat gun or I'll heat up a mandrel with the torch then slide it into the action and wait a few minutes. I do this the remove actions which have been deliberately glued in and it works fine. Regards, Bill | |||
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One of Us |
That puller looks like a couple of hours on a mill and lathe and you would be in business. Never rode a bull, but have shot some. NRA life member NRA LEO firearms instructor (retired) NRA Golden Eagles member | |||
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One of Us |
True, but it is not worth the time; they will come out with the other methods mentioned, and if it is mechanically locked in by the bedding, the puller is going to break the stock anyway. | |||
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One of Us |
Usually I put the rifle in the freezer and next day rap the underneath of the barrel while grasping the fore stock. Always worked for me. I use a rubber tire mallet. | |||
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one of us |
Put the rifle (upside down) in the plastic jaws of your vise loose, you don't want it clamped, you just want the sides of the stock resting on the plastic jaws. With the action screws just partially installed tap them lightly with a hammer. It should pop the action loose. Phil | |||
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One of Us |
Be wary of using heat, although it depends on the epoxy. If you bedded in stuff like Devcon heating will just make it cure more. "Glue ins" done on accuracy/bench guns use an epoxy glue to glue the action to the bedding and heat works on the epoxy glue. If you used a high quality epoxy like Devcon that is designed as a "filler' and not a "glue" then use the freezer. | |||
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One of Us |
you guys all have freezers big enough for a rifle? | |||
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One of Us |
Yes I do, a chest freezer. | |||
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one of us |
I’ve never a chest freezer big enough for a rifle. I’ve alway wondered if you could just pack some dry ice around the barreled action. If not he could mail the rifle to me. It’s been -30f the past few days. I could just leave it in the car for a couple of hours... Jason "You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core." _______________________ Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt. Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure. -Jason Brown | |||
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One of Us |
I don't anymore but used to have one and just for rifles. "Glue ins" started way back in time when fibreglass stocks for bench guns were made hollow in the action area thus you could screw them together. However, it did not take long to realise a "glue in" is the best bedding job. One of the pluses of the Rem 700 (nd its custom action copies) is you can get the trigger out without taking the rifle apart. On a Rem 700 you have two holes in either side of the stock so the trigger holding pins can be knocked out far enough too release the trigger. Some actions have the trigger assembly screwed on so can be accessed from bottom of the rifle. The actions are bedded as normal in stuff like Devcon etc, and then the action is glued to the bedding but using an epoxy glue. | |||
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One of Us |
Our freezers are both upright, drawer models, so I asked the neighbours. The 89-year-old lady next door had a chest freezer but was amazed I wanted to put a rifle in it. The good news is that it worked. | |||
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one of us |
The glue-in is usually done with the same compound as the rifle was bedded in although some will try different epoxies for the glue-in. I generally used Acraglas for the bed and the glue-in and still do. I have, however, used other epoxies as well. Devcon EK-10 worked well and so did Plastic Steel. The only problem with the Devcon Products was that they were degraded by Hoppes#9 so I stuck with Acra Glas (no pun intended). The drill was to bed the rifle as usual, degrease and sandblast the receiver and bedding then glue the receiver to the stock. I always did the glue-in with the barrel off. A well-done glue job stays together pretty well. A couple of years back, I had occasion to remove an action from a stock which I had glued in in 1978. The bedding stuck to the receiver and the stock well enough that there was bedding material still adhering to both. I did one glue-in on a coyote rifle for a guy. That rifle spent winters strapped to a snow machine where it saw temperatures down to -30. I think you could have put that rifle in a freezer for a long time and not been able to get it apart. Regards, Bill. | |||
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One of Us |
I got it out. Used a rubber mallet and some t-handled drivers that were too big to damage the underside of the action. Tap tap tapperoo! | |||
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One of Us |
All the ones I have done as well as having seen done in Australia were bedded first in Devcon or similar and then glued with an epoxy glue, that is, runny sort of stuff. The epoxy glue we commonly use is called Araldite sets about as hard as nylon, although of course the glue thickness is paper thin. I once tried on three rifles (all 270s on an Alloy stock we used to have in Australia) another Ciba-Geigy glue that set extremely hard, much harder than Devcon but a runny glue like the Araldite. The rifles did not shoot as well with the real hard stuff. | |||
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one of us |
As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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one of us |
If you are in Prudhoe Beach it has been -30 on the warm days. But hey, in no time the sun will be popping over the horizon. Man, it has been a cold (or maybe normal) winter in Alaska. I saw it was -30 the other day in King Salmon - that is pretty cold for that place. | |||
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