Fantastic ... stunning.

Mark, thanks for posting the pictures.

quote:

Those grooves machined on the sides of the action were put there when the action was made. They are called "lightning cuts" by some, and the reason they were put there was to make the action an ounce or two lighter becasue it was issued to moutain troops during the later stages of the war in Europe. Kind of like the modern day "Mountain Rifle".

Thanks, Always a good day when I can learn something new.

I can't tell you all how good it is to see those photos. The action looks terrific. Tom Burgess is finishing a set of scope mounts that Mark Stratton will install along with the barrel. Having that set of Burgess rings is just icing on the cake.

Guys this is going to be one nice rifle!

M70Nut, it's good to hear from you and it's not too late at all to get involved in our project. We've been fortunate that people have donated $5, $500 and everything in between. Some people have chosen to donate parts and some have sold or auctioned items on the AR classified forums and donated the proceeds to the Scholarship Rifle project. We've had several guys who have taken it upon themselves to organize teams that are handling stock acquisition, publicity, gun cases, etc.

There are lots of opportunities to get involved. Sending whatever donation you'd like to make is quick and easy. If you want to have more involvement, just pick an area that interest you and let us know. Feel free to post your thoughts or questions here or PM me.

We sure could use a nice knife to go with our rifle. Maybe there's a maker out there who would give us a deal on a nice knife worthy of the rifle we're building. Better yet, maybe there's a builder who would make several knifes for us - one to go with the rifle and a few others that we could auction off.

quote:

ForrestB: I can't tell you all how good it is to see those photos.

Here is the start of the barreling process. Facing the receiver is step one. I plan to add photos as I go. I think some of you might find it interesting.

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=447181&c=557&z=1"] [/url]

The next step is checking the face of the bolt, or even taking a clean up pass with a cutter. The bolt is held in a fixture sold by Cliff LaBounty and is available from Brownells. The next photo shows indicating the bolt in using the LaBounty fixture and a 4-jaw lathe chuck.

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=447195&c=557&z=1"] [/url]

Here is the bolt being indicated into position with a dial indicator. Adjustments are made with a 4-jaw chuck. The next step is lapping the lugs into the receiver.

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=447197&c=557&z=1"] [/url]

Here's the lapping process, sorry that there isn't much to see. The is a spring loaded plunger that applies presure against the bolt face. This spring pushs the bolt against the locking surfaces of the receiver. You add a little lapping compound between the 2 surfaces and open and close the bolt several times. Perhaps 5 or 10 minutes.

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=447203&c=557&z=1"] [/url]

Hi Mark,
Is that water based valve grinding compound in the picture? 320 grit?
Thanks,
LD

I do use valve grinding compound, 320 grit, however is an oil based. I found using anything finer takes forever to mate locking surfaces. There is one thing though, you need to remove any trace of the compound when you're finished lapping. I don't think you're going to open up the headspace, but you don't get that smooth bolt receiver feeling if not cleaned.

There are a number of factors that help you obtain the smooth feeling, and I'm sure Tom consider each one. First, is the threads that holds the bolt shrould. If you use a little lapping compound here and work the bolt and shrould until you've eliminated any drag. The second is the cocking piece camming surface on the breech end of the bolt. I use diamond laps for this surface. Being a Mauser 98 based design, the G33/40 cocks on opening. Its this camming surface that does the job. Polishing this surface and removing any cutter marks will improve the feeling when opening the bolt. Also look at the cocking piece surface that rides on this bolt surface. I little polishing might need to be done here as well. This action need to run like a swiss watch, and it looks like Tom did a good job here.

Thanks for that information!

Every time I try to take a diamond lap to Lois, I just get bitch slapped for my efforts.

Watching the birth of this rifle has been incredible. I am in awe of the talents brought to bear by the artists involved, and equally in awe of Forrest's organizational drive and talents.

I do believe there is one person in heaven shedding an ocasional tear of joy from looking down on what is happening.

LD

22wrf,

I take so little ammount of steel from the bolt face, I bet I take less than .002. The extractor won't notice the difference.

Hi Mark,

Question: How did you determine these surafces needed truing? Or do you just do this as a matter of course?

I'm surprised because I'd think a smith of Burgess' caliber would have done these things prior to having the action heat treated.

Do we need any scope rings or anything else? WHat kind of knife did you have in mind? Something with a bone or antler handle or something fancier? Trying to get a feel for what would go with this rifle.

I guess Tom figurer that anything that had to do with barreling fails in my court. No Problem....

quote:

Originally posted by Uncle Enfield:
Hi Mark,
I'm surprised because I'd think a smith of Burgess' caliber would have done these things prior to having the action heat treated.

Uncle Enfield,

While normally this sort of true up might be done prior to heat treating it is best to perform the truing afterward if/when the action has pocketed lug seats. That's set back for you and I. It's very easy to see up on the top seat where a ridge forms where the extractor slot is.

The carbon augmentation process will cause the deformed metal to spring back to some degree. Thus, the waiting on performing the truing until after return from the heat treater. The small amount of lapping will pose no threat to the newly hardened skin. I learned this the hard way on the second batch of receivers I sent in. Only afterward did I learn that this spring back was to be anticipated.

And, like Mark said, the truing is usually done by he who installs the barrel.

My guess is also that Tom wouldn't want another smith to do the barreling associated work on an action that he was supposed to put the barrel on.

Listening to what Mark is going through to put the barrel on with all surfaces trued up shows me the difference between having a real gunsmith install it and the 100 barrel plumber install.

Red

Gorgeous.....awesome....Can't wait to see it all together. Mark, thanks for posting the pics in progress. Neat to see, even if I'll never attempt anything like that...

MKane160

Well....Mark...can you shorten up the cylindrical portion of the barrel to something like old Mauser configuration? I can't help but be a little disappointed the swept back bolt handle...but...we'll live with it!..wanted this to be a true balls out Old World classic...lotsa German influence/British input...seeya...Duane

Mark, I want to thank you for the photos and the progress reports. It is great to see this rifle to come together. Again thanks.

Does anyone know what Tom done to the action other than the obvious? Surface grind. bolt handle and heat treat.

Is the web sight up yet?

Duane, I can't answer for Mark but I believe that in the picture of the barrel and receiver that the barrel is un-threaded and giving a false impression of the shank length.

James

Thanks Z1R, I meant no slight to Mr Burgess. I just wondered why Mr Stratton would have to "true" the receiver, now I know.

I have to agree with Mr. Wiebe that this rifle should have been kept lighter and more svelte.

Why the huge quarter rib when you could have cut an integral rib? Also, why such a large cylindrical chamber area when something more like .100" would do as Mr. Wiebe pointed out. I've always felt that quarter ribs belong on DGR's and not light stalking rifles.

Still, great workmanship and considering that there are many extremely talented individuals working on this project there must be inevitably some clashes as to form & function. And who knows what ForrestB's influences where.

The "huge" quarter rib hasn't been machined yet. Mark will prune it down and give the top the svelte shape later.

Why don't you just back off a bit Mr. Uncle and give everyone a chance to finish their work before you apply your expert critic to the project....Sheeze!

quote:

Originally posted by Scrollcutter:
The "huge" quarter rib hasn't been machined yet. Mark will prune it down and give the top the svelte shape later.

Why don't you just back off a bit Mr. Uncle and give everyone a chance to finish their work before you apply your expert critic to the project....Sheeze!

Sorry, didn't mean to offend. On the plus side, I've never seen any of your work I didn't like.

Hi Guys,

The quarter rib has just been fitted to the barrel. The outside has yet to be machined. As far as the barrel cylinder length, the above barrel photo shows it in the ruff stange. I want the length of the cylinder section to be around .500. Making a lite weight rifle.

Truing the receiver is more a job for the guy who's doing the barrel work, so Tom left it up to me. We all want this rifle to drive tacks and that's up to me...

More photos to come...

Scrollcutter

Are you doin anymore work on this thing, or did your work end with that bolt knob?

Mike Smith

Have you seen the new Galazan catalog yet. On page 6 they sell a beautiful Full length Rifle Case made of Oak and Leather for $799.00. that price includes a canvas cover for the case.
Might be an option worth looking at.

As for the knife, how about a classic Drop Point hunter from somebody like W.C. Davis with the even more classic stag handle scales in a custom fitted sheath. Maybe with a little scratching by Scrollcutter.

http://www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/davishunt.htm

22WRF,

I will be engraving a Rose n Scroll style pattern on this project, and can't wait to get started.

I got the barrel threaded mid week and todays job is to time the barrel so there is a flat of the octagon on top. I will also draw file the flats of the barrel and polish them to a 220 grit. The next operation will to take the measurements of the action and cut the chamber. More photos to follow...

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=448866&c=557&z=1"] [/url]

quote:

I will be engraving a Rose n Scroll style pattern on this project, and can't wait to get started.

Slightly OT Roger, but do you have any experience with a tattoo needle? I can think of a few old girlfriends that would have looked even better with a little rose and scroll here and there. Just a thought...

LD

In my experience, more women prefer the "bank note" style!

Hehe, sorry no needle XP.

Maybe in the next life....Nah!

22WRF, Thanks for the info I will check it out.

Well, the chambering process has begun. I'm using a 3-jaw chuck with an ABS plastic sleeve on the outboard end of the lathe's spindle for centering. The floating reamer holder is by JGS and the 7x57 reamer is by Pacific Grinding. The barrel is a Lilja, which machines very nicely. More to come....

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=449518&c=557&z=1"] [/url]

Well the work goes on, the barrel is now threaded and timed so there is a flat, of the octagon, on top. Last week I got the chamber cut, and oh by the way, for those of you who have never used a Lilja barrel blank, they machine very well, nice surface finishs. The Pacific 7x57 reamer left a nice chamber wall finish as well. Todays work will be polishing the chamber and cutting a short lead in for feeding the cartridge, 30 degrees, .050 deep.

I will also get the barrel cut to length and the muzzle crowned. The next operation is to start fitting the quarter rib and drilling and tapping the 6-48 hold down screws. After that will be building scope mounts, the design will match the rib.

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=450706&c=557&z=1"] [/url]

quote:

Originally posted by Mark_Stratton:
Well, the chambering process has begun. I'm using a 3-jaw chuck with an ABS plastic sleeve on the outboard end of the lathe's spindle for centering. The floating reamer holder is by JGS and the 7x57 reamer is by Pacific Grinding. The barrel is a Lilja, which machines very nicely. More to come....

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=449518&c=557&z=1"] [/url]

How did you center the barrel with the 3 jaw.

There is a nice, in depth article in the "Gunsmithing Tips and Projects" book put out by Wolfe Publishing. It is by John Bivins, and goes into detail about inletting a swamped octagonal barrel.

Beautiful work by Tom and Mark.

Hi Guys,

I've started the rib fitting process. Here's how it works, as you remember I made a casting of the barrel and cylinder section of the barrel. From this casting I cut the mating section of the rib using a panograph fixure for the milling machine. This process produced the rough rib blank. This next photo shows the rought blank sitting on top of the barrel section that will mated too. I use 3 6-48 screws to hold the rib into place, 2 of the screws will be under the express sight dove tail.

Now you're wondering what you're looking at here, this is how it works. I have he barrel sitting on 2 Vee blocks. One of the Vee blocks holds the barrel into place, next to the Vee block is a parallel clamp that acts as a stop. I coat the barrel with Prussian Blue so when I set the rib on the barrel it leaves a blue mark where it comes into contact with the barrel. I baseic hand fit the rib onto the barrel.

When I'm finished I will cut the express sight dovetail into the rib and do the same with the barrel. Once this is finished I will start doing the cosmetic machine work to the outside of the rib. I shorten the blank so what because this is a lite weight hunting rifle so we lost some weight.

Some ask the question about centering the barrel during the chambering process with a 3-jaw chuck. Here's how I do it, on the out board side of the spindle is an ABS plactic centering sleeve turned just for this barrel. Between the 3-jaw chuck and centering sleeve plus the JGS Floating reamer holder that causes the chambering reamer to float with the barrel, it cuts a very nice chamber. The floating reamer holder not only centers itself, but will pitch and yawl will the barrels movements. Nice tool...

More to come as we finish this project. I don't have the scope bases yet and the geometry and I want the rib to match the bases. I might get the word to build the bases myself at some point.

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=452590&c=557&z=1"] [/url]

Great work, Mark. I really enjoy your photos and commentary on the work you're doing. It looks like there are equal amounts of art AND science involved in your barrel work.

Hopefully we'll have the finished bases from Tom Burgess in short order and you won't have to do any additional chores to perform.

For any of you not paying full attention, last week we auctioned a stock blank donated by Butch Lambert. Mrlexma purchased the blank and the auction netted $400 for the Scholarship Fund. THANK YOU BOTH, BUTCH AND MRLEXMA.

If anyone else out there has something they would like to donate for an auction, please let me know and we'll set up the auction in the classified section. These auctions and classified sales have raised a lot of money for our project and we really appreciate both the donors and the buyers. Keep our Scholarship project in mind when you come across any useful odds and ends that could be sold.

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,
What an incredible group of people I have found in becoming a member on this site. The generosity and time included in the correspondence on this topic, let alone the monetary and labour contributions toward the rifle is astounding.

Glen,
If you are ever coming to Calgary, Alberta let me know. A man who was married to a woman who can command such attention has to be worth meeting. Let me know when you are coming and dinner will be ready. My heart grieves for you as I can't imagine the loss of such unearthly treasure. My prayers are with you and God Bless.

As for everyone else,
My hat is off and I bow low. I am still trying to gather up my jaw at this effort. Rarely do you find a project were people are trying to over-lap contributions. I unfortunately just came upon this posting so I can offer nothing but my awe.

Forrest,
Please let me know what I can do to encourage the raffle in Western Canada. I do not know Glen, nor did I know Sheryl, but when someone builds an Ark, I'm always happy to help them push it into the water.

Cheers to the Foundation and Blessings to the contributors. And warm thoughts from the North (not warm winds).

Andrew

Mr. Stratton

Anything new to report or show us a photo of?

Really looking forward to seeing how that 1/4 rib looks on top of that great looking barrel.

Hi 22WRF,

Right now I'm just fitting the rib to the barrel. I want to machine the outside of the rib to match Tom's bases. However I need to see the bases in order to design the cosmetic appearance of the rib. I want everthing to match.