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I just bought the last .264 (discontinued) #2 contour barrel from E.R Shaw. I'm not looking for bench rest accuracy, just a MOA lightweight hunting rifle. The twist is 1 in 9" & I will probably use 120gr lead core bullets, maybe 130s of the same construction. I'm wanting to build a lightweight 6.5X55 "Mountain Rifle" on a classic Oberndorf pattern. Will this barrel fit the bill? GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | ||
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My answer to that is "MAYBE" I've seen some shoot some wouldn't. I wouldn't spend my $$ on them. Many do and are happy. With the right reloads you should be able to make it a MOA rifle. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Well, it's a "Blank" barrel other than the #2 contour so perhaps the chambering, crowning & fitting of it to a M98 action will help the accuracy potential. I'm planning on giving Dennis Olsen a call when it gets here. After a thorough inspection of course. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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They can be accurate enough, if the smith doing the work takes his time to make the chamber, threads & crown as "true" as possible. The one I spent time around shot acceptably, but it also fouled like a pig (5 shots would turn the inside of the barrel orange with copper, that took 3 days of cleaning to remove) | |||
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You will find that there are folks that won't use a barrel that costs less that 600.00. I have not had a problem with Shaw barrels,when chambered right and the same with the crown. | |||
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Well, I just got off the phone W/Dennis Olsen.(of Plains Montana) He said he will thread the barrel, fit it to my VZ500 M98 action, chamber in 6.5X55, open the bolt face & crown the barrel for $175. That will have me W/$255 for the whole job including the shipped barrel. He seems to have a good reputation & when I sent him a M98K take-off barrel for a (custom)re-contouring a while back, he did the job exacly as I had spec'ed & had it back to me in less than a week. As far as cleaning the copper out, Wipe-Out will get the job done in short order. I wonder, since these barrels have a reputation for copper fouling, if lapping the barrel before I send it out to him would be a good idea. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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I for one would not use one if you gave it to me. Only barrel I ever had pretzel on me was an ER Shaw. Only the tiniest bit of material was removed before the pent up stress bowed it all out of shape. They might be fine if you use them as supplied but in my book a decent barrel will not bow when recontoured. Aut vincere aut mori | |||
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Back in the day, they were the best target barrel money could buy. If you stick them in the ground just right, they will withstand several bullet strikes before you have to go down range to reposition them for the next volley. _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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Geronimo | |||
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I own several and they do a fair job in the accuracy and repeatability depts. As was previously mentioned you will get your exercise cleaning them. I have a 6.5x55 with a Shaw light hunter barrel and it will do MOA with the right load. It is mounted in a Steven 200 action with original trigger and Tupper Ware Stock. My last one was a 22PPC Bull barreled Shaw ,same action ect., and it can and does shoot some tiny tiny groups but not bench rest competitive. roger Old age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone.. | |||
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You can polish a turd all you want, and may even get it smooth and shiny, BUT it will still be a turd. I'd rather spend $300 on a decent tube and not have to worry about any of the problems (and know that the maker will stand behind his product IF a problem should happen to develop) | |||
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Interesting ... I bought a Mark X barreled action for the action with the intention of making it into a boomer. Happened to be in .264 Win Mag and the barrel an E. R. Shaw. For the heck of it, I loaded some 125 gr Nosler Partitions and took it to the range. Darned if the thing didn't shoot sub MOA. So ... as .264 Win Mag has a reputation as a barrel burner ... I figure I just use it up before mounting a new barrel. Have also noted that a number of well respected providers of AR15 barrels use Shaw blanks. So, is E. R. Shaw all bad? I tend to doubt it. Would I put one is a high dollar custom ... probably not. Mike -------------- DRSS, Womper's Club, NRA Life Member/Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles ... Knifemaker, http://www.mstarling.com | |||
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I've found the same sort of snobbish attitude in the bicycling community. Many cyclists believe that you must spend thousands of $$ to get a good full suspension mountain bike. I purchased one for under $400, did a few upgrades to it & have put nearly 4,000 miles on it in the past year. It performs as well & perhaps is more durable than bikes costing $2000 or more for 1/2 the cost. So what if it weighs 2# more than the high $$$ version? From some of the posts here it appears that the same might hold true for rifle barrels. It looks like most of the posts from people that have actually OWNED & SHOT E R Shaw barrels are positive while most of the detractors are basing their opinions on conjecture. These are probably the same folks that say that a military barrel is not worth fooling with. I recently had Dennis re-contour a M98K take off barrel & it shoots sub MOA groups W/the right reloads. Actually it has shot sub MOA W/all the hand loads I tested, it shot sub 1/2" MOA W/the best Of course not having a high $$ barrel on my rifle will preclude having the bragging rights associated W/having spent a ton of cash on my project. I really don't give a rat's A$$ who is impressed. All I want is a rifle W/good hunting accuracy. If it will hold all the shots into a 1" group @ 100yds, I can still hit the lungs on a buck @ 400yds & a bit beyond. That's all the accuracy I need. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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Nor would I. Many here seem to think we all have unlimited cash reserves. My financial situation dictates that I have to work within my limited budget or not build rifles @ all. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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I can only speak for the one Shaw that I own. I put a varmint weight 26" in 220 Swift on a Savage 12fv, Chambered, crowned and threaded by Shaw. It shoots minute of prairie dog out to 400yds on a "Quiet" day. When I was "breaking in" the barrel I used JB paste every second cleaning. Currently cleaning it is no more difficult than any of my other rifles. GOOD LUCK and GOOD SHOOTING!!! IF YOU'RE GONNA GET OLD,YOU BETTER BE TOUGH!! GETTIN' OLD AIN'T FOR SISSIES!! | |||
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Yeah, that pretzelled barrel on my lathe is pure conjecture. Since you mention Military barrels, I'll add this: I have recontoured dozens of take off 98 barrels and never had one warp as a result. The amount of material taken off that Shaw was miniscule in comparison.
It's not about money, its about quality, repeatability, dependability. But when a barrel lets you down without even the benefit of one shot down the bore.....well.... No one says you have to buy the most expensive barrel out there but, as with bikes, at least use quality components. Ultimately, the proof is in the pudding. If it shoots, great. But given how much time, effort, and resources we put into a hunt, I sure as hell don't want the success of that hunt to come down to whether or not I can depend on a chintzy barrel. I've also found that those barrels which seem to foul quickly and demand lots of cleaning tend to take a while to settle in after each cleaning. Me, I prefer a barrel that will put that bullet right where I want it, each time. Aut vincere aut mori | |||
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Just because some of us use top quality parts for our rifles does not mean we are loaded with money. We shop around for good prices and wait until we can pay for it. You might check this link:http://www.thebarrelman.com/Barrelman_Pricing-Rifle-barrels.htm. Do like your old lady, shop around. I wonder where the fellow found $600 barrels. He didn't shop around. Butch | |||
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There was a local shop back in 1980 that would send their customers rifles to E.R. Shaw to have a barrel installed and blued, very cheaply, even in those days. He would double the price or better and then hand them back to his customers claiming them to be Douglas. Customers didn't know any better. A lot of these barrel jobs eventually made their way to my shop as well as others. Word got out about that little stunt and other things and the guy no longer lives in Utah. Moved to Montana last I heard. His name ISN'T Dennis. On the surface these Shaw barrels were fairly easy to spot even if you didn't know for sure what you were looking at. Sometimes, while gazing down the bore you would catch yourself waving back. After heating up, the only thing that was safe was the target. I hung on to a few of these takeoffs for many years, mainly to show wavering customers the difference in quality between brand A and brand B. Now E.R. Shaw may have improved things over the past 30 years, but the experience I had with their stuff back "in the day" left a lasting impression. Kind of like what happens when you accidentally look into the sun. No matter where you look you still see the sun. Personally I don't have the desire to try a Shaw barrel, or a few others for that matter. Mostly because of past quality issues. Professionally, I have to stand behind my work and so I only offer and recommend products that I can guarantee will perform. The difference in price between brand A and brand B is nothing compared to the potential long term expense for bad judgment. Good luck though. _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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Perhaps it has to do W/the fact that the WW-II M98 barrels are cut rifling that does not impart stress into the barrel. Not to mention that thousands of rounds sent down the tube, sometimes in rapid sucession resulting in tremendoes heat build-up, would tend to relieve any stress that was imparted during manufacture. Are then Shaw Barrels button rifled? That imparts stress on the barrel. I do not plan to have any stock removed from the barrel other than what is neccessary to thread & crown the barrel. And please also note that I used the word MOST, not ALL when I qualified my statement. Your post would not neccessarily be included in that statement. I don't doubt that you did have a bad experience W/that particular barrel, but since I do not intend to alter the profile of the barrel I purchased, I do not see where it has any relivance in this case.
Well, from all the positive responses from actual users of Shaw barrels, it seems that "quality, repeatability, dependability" are not lacking, @ least not W/the majority of Shaw barrels.
One of the best shooting "out of the box" rifles I ever owned is a M700 Mountain Rifle in 7mm-08. It leaves copper colored racing stripes in the bore right out to the muzzle. That rifle will shoot sub 1/2 MOA groups when I do my part W/Federal Premium 140gr BT factory loads. I have shot sub 3/8" groups @ 100yds W/my handloads. I clean the bore W/Wipe out @ the end of the hunting season. Before the following season I take it & all of my rifles that I might hunt with to the range to check zero. A few shots sent down range result in that horrible copper stripe & the subsequent pinpoint accuracy. I never hunt W/a "clean bore". I want any 2nd or 3rd shot (haven't needed either of those in some time) to hit the same POI as the 1st shot. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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It does appear that the bores can be a bit "rough" evidenced by the reported tendancy to copper foul. I think that top of the line barrels are sometimes "lapped" to smooth them up. That of course adds cost. I intend to inspect the barrel when I receive it & perhaps do some hand lapping myself. I'm familiar W/the process having done that to a few rough muzzle loader bores in the past. Think a smooth bore is critical for accuracy in a CF rifle? Just imagine what a rough bore will do to hinder accuracy when shooting patched roundballs. If my "polished turd" shoots well, then there's something to be said for "poished turds". GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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Like a good friend once said, "Considering that the barrel on a rifle is about the only part that will ever need to be replaced during the owners lifetime I have never understood why guys are so eager to cheap out when replacing it. Geez...you are getting a brand new rifle when you put on a new barrel." Me, I'd rather have one good one than ten that are so-so. My wife is fond of saying, "wait til you can afford what you want instead of settling for less." Smart woman! Aut vincere aut mori | |||
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From a machine builders perspective, yes, yes and yes For a button rifled barrel, they (any barrel maker) has a minimum of 3 steps that must be preformed. Contour (either before or after) Drill Button rifle. The better makers add some, or all of, a few more steps Ream Pre lap Post lap Stress relief Straighten The better makers also tend to hold tighter tolerances / reject (scrap) for smaller deviations from "perfect". These spec's include (but are not limited to) pre-button diameter (bore) pre-button surface finish bore diameter deviation post button diameters (bore & groove) post button surface finish Concentricity of the OD and ID Straightness of the bore post rifling diameter deviation The higher the standards, the more time is required, the lower the production rate, the higher the labor cost. Conversely the lower the standards, and the more steps you skip, the lower the cost out the door. IIRC your in the legal profession, which would you want to defend you at a license forfeiture hearing, a $25/hour "public defender" or the $500/hour lawyer that specializes in that kind of work and why? | |||
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I'm with zlr on this one. And I'm a guy who is notorious for using used barrels wherever practicable! But his argument is spot on; for the average person who will probably replace only a few barrels in his lifetime, IMO it would be foolish to scrimp over $100 or so. You generally get what you pay for in the shooting world as well as the rest of this earth. That is, if the lower-priced version makes folks happy enough, then the higher-priced version will disappear. If OTOH the higher-priced version is still popular with the THINKING buyers then that's a strong indication that maybe, just maybe, the lower-priced version is lacking somewhere. The extra money for a quality barrel is, IMO, money well spent if the rifle is any good. Good insurance, if you will. And the same goes for your smith, use a quality smith with a good rep and pay his price. But also as with barrelmakers, check to see which ones the THINKING folks are liking, that is, the accuracy-oriented ones. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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The cost of machining and installing a crappy barrel is the same as the cost of machining and installing a good barrel. The action costs the same whether the barrel is good or crappy. The stock costs the same whether the barrel is good or crappy. The scope and mounts cost the same whether the barrel is good or crappy. Ammunition costs the same whether the barrel is good or crappy. Travel time to and from your shooting place costs the same whether the barrel is good or crappy. Couple all that with the fact that the barrel machining cost is sunk, and I see little incentive to skimp on the quality of the barrel. Any cost savings of a cheap barrel get eaten up pretty quickly when you have to pay twice for a barrel install if the first barrel is a dog. | |||
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So, how many posts are on this thread by people that are unhappy W/their E R Shaw barrel? So far, none that I see.
And here are yet more satisfied E R Shaw customers.
Here are posts (from E R Shaw owner/shooters) that I consider neither posutive nor negative. Not what I woulod consider endorsements, but not totally damning the product either.
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Um, I was. Unhappy that is. And, if you include my customer, that would make at least two. Aut vincere aut mori | |||
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Sounds like you need to close out the thread. Your mind was already made up. Butch | |||
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I just barreled up a 220 Swift for a friend, and he supplied an E.R. Shaw barrel. We took it to the range and it shot a .230" group @100 yards, with factory ammo. For now it shoots, I just hope he gets a lot of use out of it before the accuracy goes south. Extreme Custom Gunsmithing LLC, ecg@wheatstate.com | |||
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wj, why not just come on and say that you bought a Shaw barrel and are thrilled with it. If you don't want opinions from people who have btdt, why ask? I've replaced several Shaw barrels that either didn't shoot or were such horrible foulers that they wouldn't shoot for long. The point you entirely miss is that while you "may" get a decent one, the odds of getting a real dog are MUCH higher with Shaw than with high quality barrel makers. It's your money, if you want to roll the dice that your investment in the rifle will pay off with those odds, rock on. I hope it works great for you. That said, lots of guys who have posted on this thread have taken their lumps by investing in cheap barrels. To those who have been there, it is like stepping over a dollar to pick up a dime. Bottom line, Shaw makes barrel for people who want to go the cheapest route possible, those who don't care or don't know about accuracy, repeatability, ease of cleaning, etc. Nothing wrong with any of that, just don't be surprised when your $50 Shaw barrel doesn't live up to expectations. There is no free lunch, if you want a high quality barrel, you have to pay for it. | |||
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Every barrel I've ever used with the exceptions of hand lapped benchrest barrels, button rifled or hammer forged were rough and needed to be lapped to get the best accuracy and least fouling...BAR NONE. I've used 3 ER Shaw barrels, many A&B and a few McGowen since my income doesn't fit my tastes anymore. I think McGowen are the better choices as they are smoother and require the least amount of lapping, but even the cheapo A&B's shoot well under 1 MOA without much load workup...and DON'T foul any more than any other cheapo barrel that hasn't been "fondled". I've had "BAD" high dollar benchresters in the distant past, but in todays machining world I think most of the BS about "bad" barrels is repeats of dim memories if you bother to really think about it, or repeats of what has been read before and NOT actual experience. "One dog barks at a shadow and a 1000 dogs bark at the sound" I don't blame a barrel maker if he stands behind his product. Jezzz...he POUR the steel and he DOESN'T make the barrel blank, for the most part...he probably only separates the wheat from the chaff, stress relieves, lapps the bore and maybe the contour, chamber and crown. You pay the high dollar for all the hand work that goes into the lapping, checking, stress relieving etc...the barrel blank price is chump change compared to the labor and handling costs. If Dan Lilja just sold his barrel blanks as they came from where ever he gets them the you ***** would be cussing HIM and calling him names. Gimme a break...some of these arguments are ludicrous. I may wish to be able to use $300-600 dollar barrels so I can drop all the names and strut around, but reality leaves me AND most other humble servants in the cheapo bracket, and those barrels, with a little sweat equity, will shoot very well indeed. Besides the fact that maybe 80% of all the shooters out there are happy with hunting accuracy and are clueless when it comes to what to do to really "accurize" their favorite shooters. We don't all have deep pockets or afford a $10,000.00 custom made "perfect" rifle, and I guarantee a deer shot with a $275.00 Savage will taste just as good as one shot with some gold encrusted, engraved, premier wooded example of "conspicuous consumption". Luck. | |||
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This is another thread that has accomplished not one damn thing. I don't know where the $300-$600 barrel prices come from. Sounds like talk from the shooting range guys. The better barrelmakers buy heat treated steel in very large lots. They are sawed to length. They are faced on both ends and centers are machined on both ends. They are gun drilled and then reamed. They are lapped to remove any tooling marks. You button or cut rifle the grooves. It is lapped again. Some contour before stress relieve and some after. Butch | |||
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I don't see where spending $100 more on a good barrel results in a $10,000 rifle? I also don't see where anyone said you HAD to spend $300 to $600 on a barrel blank. Any manufacturer can turn out a bad barrel, it happens. It's just that with better quality barrels the occurances are far less frquent. Aut vincere aut mori | |||
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BEST so far! Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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It's a fine hunting barrel. The only problem is it don't cost a lot so some folks don't like them. If the same barrels was sold by "Olmquist precision" at a price of $800, they would be loved. | |||
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I dont know if it's true or not, but I have an old Star barrel, it's as nice a tube as any I've ever had. It's in a 240 gibbs and shoots 3/8" groups with as little fouling as you could ask. I heard, ER shaw uses Star's machinery. If so, Shaw doesnt put the effort into their barrels Star did. I've shot a couple Shaw barreled rifles, they were OK, about factory rifle average it seemed. | |||
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I vote for that post being the best so far. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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If you want to use a cheap barrel get an Adams & Bennett. They cost less and are of the same quality. I'm not so sure they aren't better. Both foul quickly, but A&B seem to be more accurate on average. I have only used 4 or 5 of each, so it's a small sample. Many customers are happy, understanding they have to clean more often.......Tom SCI lifer NRA Patron DRSS DSC | |||
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z1r, I should have worded that post better. Yes I can see where you are coming from, but I really meant to specify that I wanted input from people that have actually purchased an E R Shaw barrel for their own personal use. You were referancing a customers barrel, maybe a fine point, but a point none the less. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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How can you say it has accomplished nothing? . Just because I, & it appears several E R Shaw barrel owners do not agree W/your opinion? It has initiated a lot of discussion on the subject. If you go take all the positive feedback from people that have bought & used E R Shaw barrels, it's not a one sided discussion as far as opinions asto the suitabiulity of these barrels for what I want. Yes I understand perfectly the difference in the quality. I just do not see where I need to spend the extra $$ for that last bit of guilt edges accuracy that all that expensive hand work yields. I am also willing to put a bit of my own time/sweat equity into prepping the barrel by doing some of that hand work myself. I do plan on having my "smith" giving the barrel a good once over before putting any tools to it & if he is of the opinion that it is not worth the effort, I will just have to eat the $65 price of the blank as well as my time hand lapping the bore. I'm sure I can recover most of the initial investment on e-bay if need be. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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@ $65 + $15 shipping I doubt that an A&B would be cheaper. The only reason I bought this barrel was the discounted price for a profile that is no longer being offered. The regular price would have been $130. I wanted a blank barrel so that I can have the crown, chamber & particularly the throat cut to my spec's. I think some elbow grease W/a lead lap will help aleviate the copper fouling. Besides that, Wipe Out makes removing copper a whole lot easier than hand scrubbing. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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