We're having some bedding problems. Let me tell you what we are doing. Our blanks are airdried and then laminated . They are cut on the pantograph. In anywhere from 3-7 days, we inlet the barreled action and bottom metal. Then the finish work is done, with the stock finish curing in a cabinet, with Golden Rods, to keep the temp up.
When we put the metal back in the stock, it seems the dimensions have changed, causing some re-inletting work. We're using Acragel.
I'm assuming it is a moisture problem in the blanks, possibly compounded by the heat in the drying cabinet.
Any thoughts?

Just a silly question...but what is the purpose of partially inletting the blanks then sticking them back in the drying cabinet? Isn’t that sort of like partially ironing a shirt, tossing it back in the dryer and then expecting it to be pressed when you take it out?

the golden rod is driving the humid too low... unless you are hunting in death valley or a high desert, your rifle won't see that level.

STOP the goldenrod, if you want heat, make a box out of something (insultation board) and shine a light on it...

Then again, I wouldn't heat the finish.. that's a car painting trick, not stock finish.

i bet your once-inletted fine stocks now require a good deal of work to get in...

and, if you put it in the bath room for 3 days, would have gaps

jeffe

Not once, but TWICE!!! have I put stocks in a rust bluing damp box without the water to speed up drying time. This makes for a warm environment with very low humidity. One stock shrunk a measuerd 3/32" around a steel butt palte. THe other I never measured, but was just about as bad. There is no way to completely seal a wooden gun stock and they will always take in or lose water. Even if you have thick coats of epoxy finish built up on the surface of a stock, it will still lose or gain water. This is not nearly as big a deal as made out in gun maagzines, but you do need to be aware of it when finishing your stocks.

Definitley lose the Golden Rod and let the stock dry at ambient temperature.

BTW-the 2 times I did this were not at the same time. Yes, i screwed up one stock and then about a year later, said, hell, there is no way that could happen again! There won't be a third time (famous last words)

Rick,

Many stockmakers partially inlet or turn blanks and let them sit for a while before they finish the stock. Doing this lets the wood further age and stabilize with the blank closer to its final mass and shape. It also will show any internal flaws that may be hiding in the blank before many man hours are put into it.

quote:

Originally posted by DavidReed:
Rick,

Many stockmakers partially inlet or turn blanks and let them sit for a while before they finish the stock. Doing this lets the wood further age and stabilize with the blank closer to its final mass and shape. It also will show any internal flaws that may be hiding in the blank before many man hours are put into it.

I understand that...but do they inlet them in normal humidity then stick them in a drying cabinet with zero humidity and expect the inletting to come out the same size as it was when they stuck it in there?

How warm do these golden rods get? I have a cabinet with a light bulb in the bottom and a few vents. Above that a common air filter and then the stock hangs above that with some more vents. The temp in the cabinet hangs around 80 degrees. Not sure it helps but I'm thinking the heat rising from light bulb creates ait flow. I got this off either this site or from the Swamp Gas site. I've never had any problems with shrinkage, not counting a cold swim in the morning.

Sorry Rick... I wrote that reply after going through a couple hundred lines of C++ code and wasn't back to real clarity of mind yet. I agree that I don't see the utility of the drying treatment either.

I remember Jack Belk describing using a light bulb in a drying cabinet to creat airflow. I'm not sure how much heat a Golden Rod generates as I don't use one. We don't have much humidity in the Denver area.

Waksupi,

Are you doing a lamination process similar to Serengetti's with five or six thicker layers? How long have the blanks aged before you have them laminated and turned on the pantograph? My first inclination is that you have some residual stresses working out from the time you turn them til you inlet and finish. But that doesn't make sense as the whole point of laminating is to avoid/minimize movement. Try as the others have suggested and try your process without the artificial heat on the next blank.

quote:

Are you doing a lamination process similar to Serengetti's with five or six thicker layers? How long have the blanks aged before you have them laminated and turned on the pantograph? My first inclination is that you have some residual stresses working out from the time you turn them til you inlet and finish. But that doesn't make sense as the whole point of laminating is to avoid/minimize movement. Try as the others have suggested and try your process without the artificial heat on the next blank.

I am working for Serangeti, and we have went to a three layer lamination. The stock age varies, and we do test them with a moisture meter before turning. I was pretty sure it was a moisture content problem, aggravated by the heat. I unplugged the heat unit today, and we will see what happens, as it was raising the temperature to near 100 degrees. I'm pretty sure you guys have hit it on the head. Thanks for the imput!

I don't think the heat was helping dry time anyways as I understand it has little effect on the evaporation rate of the solvent in the finish.