Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
One of Us |
I have an M91 bolt and a M1889 Receiver that need to be fitted. The etractor cam on the receiver needs to be mover ahead about .060. Anyone game? | ||
|
Moderator |
Not me, hell no opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
|
One of Us |
This is similar to taking to your room the last woman in the bar at closing time: sometimes it's better not none. | |||
|
one of us |
Its either the last woman at the bar at closing or going home with the NY Times. | |||
|
One of Us |
Need more info. The primary extraction cam on the 1891 is at the interface between the left front of the bolt root and the slanted left rear surface of the receiver's rear bridge. Are you saying that the bolt is too long or short, or is it that the 1889's primary extraction cam is located somewhere else like on the Mannlichers? What about headspace? What about sear/safety engagement? Lots of unknowns here. Need more info. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
|
One of Us |
Joe The rear surface of the receiver bridge needs to move forward about .060 to clear the root of the bolt handle. The rest of the receiver is pretty much identical and it is not barreled. | |||
|
One of Us |
That's another way of saying that the bolt handle root needs to move backward. Might be worth a thought, always modify the least expensive part first (grin). If you FUBAR it, I have an orphan 1891 bolt. Moving anything like that means that either the sear or the safety might have to be modified to work properly but I don't see any reason why it couldn't be done. But I'm not accepting any new work right now, sorry. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
|
One of Us |
Could you take 0.060 off the rear of the locking lugs? Like he said, do the easiest first. You could set the barrel back 0.060 and never know the difference. | |||
|
One of Us |
Why go through all that trouble to replace a $30 bolt. 1889 bolt You gotta look for parts first then start making chips if nothing around www.KLStottlemyer.com Deport the Homeless and Give the Illegals citizenship. AT LEAST THE ILLEGALS WILL WORK | |||
|
One of Us |
DO NOT TOUCH the locking lugs! Come to think of it, a collector/restorer might pay enough for the parts so that you could buy a complete 1891 action or even rifle. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
|
One of Us |
well yes never touch the lugs. For one they are most likely case hardened and removing the case would render it nearly useless. Two you significantly reduce the shear area on the lugs and maybe to the point that they could fail. I for one would not want to find out. And if a collector is willing to pay enough for you to buy another action even a 91 Arg I'd stick with the Argentine but get one seven years younger A 98 Argentine would make a decent platform to build a rifle on. Ya Ya Ya I know it's a waste of money to dump into a mauser to get a decent hunting rifle out of it. We all have our way's of wasting money www.KLStottlemyer.com Deport the Homeless and Give the Illegals citizenship. AT LEAST THE ILLEGALS WILL WORK | |||
|
One of Us |
I wouldn't touch the locking lugs on anything but an 1889/91, but I wouldn't build anything even remotely hot on such an action anyway. Actually, who would bother doing such a major modification? I would throw the thing in a drawer and look around for something more productive to do. | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia