A few weeks ago I purchased an older style Mark X Rifle in like new condition - basecally for the barreled action. I like military Mauser actions and have a few of them, but don't completely trust the heat treat, and besides there is some work to do to get them up to snuff as well.

So I want a custom stock on this barreled action and I think I am going to take Steve's class to learn how to do it myself (if that is possible) I won't save any money on this one but the knowledge gained will be priceless.

The question is, what would you do to an Interarms Mark X action before you put some decent wood on it? (its a .300 WM)

I'm not a gunsmith, just a consumer. But if it were mine I'd start by replacing the trigger with a good aftermarket brand that does not have a side safety. Next, I would replace the bolt shroud with one that includes a safety. You can get better bottom metal but I'd don't think it is worth the effort if your rifle has the trigger bow floorplate release. But if your rifle has the push-button release outside of the trigger bow I'd go ahead and upgrade the bottom metal.

From there the sky's the limit. Depending on how much you want to "upgrade", you can have a fancy checkered bolt handle installed, front sling loop soldered on the barrel, and barrel band sights. You can also get the barrel threaded for a brake or suppressor and engine-turn the bolt. I wouldn't bother with any of those on a Mark-X but some people would.

What I would do with it isn't the same as what I would recommend to you, but here it is:

I'd replace the trigger with a model 70 type trigger. I'd replace the bolt shroud with one of Jim Wisners 3 position safety's. He sells them in the classifieds here: http://forums.accuratereloadin...2711043/m/6381096662

Then, I'd rebarrel it to a 458 win mag. (my preference, not yours). And work on it just a bit to make it feed reliably.

Barrel band sling mount, express sights.

If I was telling you what to do, not what I would do, I'd recommend exactly the same as Grenadier did.

Add smoothing the rails feed ramp etc.

I'd find a take-off stock and see how it shoots before I did anything. Custom stocking a bolt gun is a lot of work to find out the best it's capable of is 5" groups @ 100yds. Wisners' 3 position safety and a Timney for up-grades on MK x. Any metal finishing comes after stocking. While I was in school it took me 4 class periods to inlet 03 Springfield bottom metal in my 1st made from a blank stock. Mausers are easier.......

I can put up with them, but I find the bolt handle to be swept to far back. It works, but doesn't look right.

They just copied the FN handle when they started making them in Yugoslavia.

quote:

Originally posted by theback40:
I can put up with them, but I find the bolt handle to be swept to far back. It works, but doesn't look right.

I might change that. Thanks.

I glass bed it.

Scope it and go hunting.

havent seen a Mark X rifle for sale in very long time, other than online....

They say 'there is no accounting for taste' and I think the FN handle is the best looking one of all. I have an MK X I bought in 1974 (?) in 7mm Rem. Lots of moose and Shuyak deer put up in the freezer with that old tool. Sounds like you have a fun project ahead.

Having used one for 40 years I have found the factory triggers very rugged and reliable, basically they are a copy of the excellent Sako trigger. The actions smooth up superbly and are as reliable as a Mauser ! In fact during the late 1970's they built the same actions for Mauser, with the Mauser logo !

They are good, solid, reliable actions

The barrels on them also were typically quite accurate

I like the Mark X actions as they are a chrom/Moly alloy, a little rough but can be smoothed out by hand polishing. I make a new bolt handle and replace the bolt shroud with a regular Mauser 98 unit. The action is a speed lock set up so you need to understand the clearance for a new 2 position safety which I make to fit each action. The floor plate can be made like a release inside the trigger guard loop. The original trigger is fine after you learn how to hone the unit so you don't have a trip fire happen. Throw away the original safety. I will show a couple of pictures of one I made for my grandson when he turned 14 yrs old, some 19 yrs ago. This one has a Shilen 6mm barrel in 6mm Rem.

Well if you already have an FN barreled action, I would make a stock for that one and leave the MkX alone since it's in new condition and they are only new once (or sell it as you already seem to have a rather nice one with sentimental value in a similar caliber).

Stocking a rifle using a semi-inletted stock is pretty straightforward. Just get some inletting black, some very sharp chisels of various shapes, and maybe even a barrel rasp. You cannot inlet a stock properly without inletting black.

Most of the work, frankly, is the sanding and finishing not the inletting. Esp if you do a traditional finish. Start with a coarse file, then a fine file, then sandpaper. Do not skip grits when doing this.

To make a nice stock, get a metal buttplate and grip cap and take extra time to fit those. If you are going to go the recoil pad route, do a red solid rubber pad and again, take the time to get it to fit, and then finish and sand the stock with the pad on.

Now checkering, that is a different matter. Takes lots of practice to do it well. Ditto engraving. Send it out for that work.

And get it rust blued.

Like most said,
bolt shroud
bolt handle
trigger
bottom metal
glas-bed
nice blue job
All of these things are personal preference so you might not want to do any of them or all, whatever you decide just make sure you shoot it often and enjoy it, we only have them a short time even if we keep them all our lives.

Steve.......

It is what it is!! Shoot it, enjoy it, and don't F with it!

Hip

Me? I'd assemble it and shoot it - find out of the parts all work - the trigger is fine, the safety isn't pretty, but works, the bottom metal is great. I'd just put it together and hunt it awhile, determining if it likes the combo, then change the cosmetics . it's not like the stocks for them are hard to find.

cheers

I respectfully disagree with those that say the trigger and safety is okay. The trigger can be adjusted till it's okay. However, I have found that the safety will not hold in all circumstances, I've had several that if you pulled the trigger hard it would override the safety. I would definitely change it out to a safety that retracts the firing pin off the safety, and locks the firing pin, not just blocking the trigger pull.

Other than it's not polished up as nicely internally as it could be, and that it should be polished up and worked over to feed better and perfectly reliably, the trigger safety is the only detriment to the Mark X. It's a good rifle, not perfect, not a nice custom, but a good solid performer.

I always do change over to Mark X actions similar to this shown. The release button is cut away and no cutting into the stock. Canjar single set and 98 shroud fitted up.

I would start on a very cheep piece of wood.

Like pine or something.

When you get that down use your walnut.

Prairie Dog

I don't think the experience would be the same using Pine. That blank was only a couple hundred bucks back when I bought it. If I wreck it so be it. At least I learned something.

Have at it is your money.

quote:

Originally posted by p dog shooter:
I would start on a very cheep piece of wood.

Like pine or something.

When you get that down use your walnut.

I completely disagree with this. Use the walnut, at least you'll have a gun stock when you're done. I'm a gunsmith school grad (30yrs ago). The same was thought by some of the students when it came time to begin stockmaking (to use a cheap, low grade of wood). The instructors advice,, "Use a decent piece of walnut, It doesn't have to be exhibition grade, but not a cull either. If you don't use a decent piece, you'll regret it later".

I'd also say use the walnut. Just make sure you have the correct tool and know what you're doing, before you do whatever step you're on in the process. Slow and careful, and you'll learn from it, and have a decent product when you're done.

I make duplicator patterns out of pine and other soft woods sometimes, but it's more as a quick way to try something out and experiment, not as a saving of the wood technique. It allows me to build back with Bondo and epoxy, and develop the stock, try it and fit it and even shoot it, and then make it in the higher quality wood. Plus, gives me a pattern to save time if I want to make more than one stock. Other than experimenting and trial and error, the only time I would absolutely rather have a softwood pattern and then duplicate is on heavily figured wood. The duplicator makes short work of what would be hard cuts in wild grain wood, so saves a lot of time and effort.

For a nice straight grain piece of walnut like you have, and a one time stock, make it in the walnut, and have something when you're done, not have to start over and do the same thing again.

Don't make a stock out of pine!! It is a waste of time, so get a walnut blank with straight grain and follow my instructions at the top of this section on Stockmaker Show and Tell. If you get into a problem send me a PM and I will help you thru the process.

I have made just about all styles of stocks by hand from flintlocks, cap locks, classic, and after several yrs I designed a stock duplicator which anyone with a lathe can make. If you are making stocks for your shop than make a duplicator. You will need to understand dimensions that are required to make a pattern. Time is reduced from days to 1 1/2 hrs to cut a blank and then finish the inletting by hand.

I like to see the person who wants a custom stock to understand what he needs to fit him or her. If they have a picture of a stock I can make it.

My age and mind are about to cause me to stop writing on forums. I still have a fews of my DVD's and if anyone needs projects to do you can find things that will keep you busy. Send a PM if you have any questions and I will try to answer.

Remember that all of us started from what others have done in the past by reading articles in Magazines. The internet is the best thing for gunsmiths to use in the last 40 yrs.