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I had a customer bring me a Savage 116 300 win mag stainless that has a factory installed muzzle brake. It is a on/off style. It is not intergal. I tried a punch through the ports to get it loose but I put so much pressure on it, the punch was about at its braking point. Anyone have experience removing these, I don't see any pins. Im wondering if they used a thread locker of some type. I am going to replace it because it has a small crack starting at one of the ports. I just didn't want to start going extreme if there was a trick. | ||
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Moderator |
i have no idea, but can you check if it's lefthanded thread? is there threadlock on it? #dumptrump opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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One of Us |
I cannot tell if it is left or right threads. I can see the barrel crown but nothing else. The break is round with no way to get a wrench on it. I hope it is not pressed on, that would probably require a barrel swap. | |||
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One of Us |
Hold the brake in your barrel vise in wood blocks. Turn the action with your receiver wrench. Probably the brake will come off before the receiver does. COA2: Put the barrel in your barrel vise. Use a pipe wrench on the brake. It will come off. Actually this is COA1. | |||
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One of Us |
Thanks dpcd, I considered that. I don't care if I ruin or damage the brake, it is already cracked. I will try that this evening. | |||
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one of us |
If you're not worried about saving the brake, try heating it with a propane torch. Some of the high-temp thread lockers require a lot of heat to remove. | |||
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One of Us |
Well my first attempt snapped a welding rod in half with a 14 inch pipe wrench. So I used a map torch on it and got it hot, wasn't quite glowing yet and finally got it off. That sucker was on there. But off now, thanks for the tips | |||
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