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I had a customer bring me a Savage 116 300 win mag stainless that has a factory installed muzzle brake. It is a on/off style. It is not intergal. I tried a punch through the ports to get it loose but I put so much pressure on it, the punch was about at its braking point. Anyone have experience removing these, I don't see any pins. Im wondering if they used a thread locker of some type. I am going to replace it because it has a small crack starting at one of the ports. I just didn't want to start going extreme if there was a trick. | ||
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Moderator |
i have no idea, but can you check if it's lefthanded thread? is there threadlock on it? opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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One of Us |
I cannot tell if it is left or right threads. I can see the barrel crown but nothing else. The break is round with no way to get a wrench on it. I hope it is not pressed on, that would probably require a barrel swap. | |||
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One of Us |
Hold the brake in your barrel vise in wood blocks. Turn the action with your receiver wrench. Probably the brake will come off before the receiver does. COA2: Put the barrel in your barrel vise. Use a pipe wrench on the brake. It will come off. Actually this is COA1. | |||
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One of Us |
Thanks dpcd, I considered that. I don't care if I ruin or damage the brake, it is already cracked. I will try that this evening. | |||
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one of us |
If you're not worried about saving the brake, try heating it with a propane torch. Some of the high-temp thread lockers require a lot of heat to remove. | |||
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One of Us |
Well my first attempt snapped a welding rod in half with a 14 inch pipe wrench. So I used a map torch on it and got it hot, wasn't quite glowing yet and finally got it off. That sucker was on there. But off now, thanks for the tips | |||
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