Besides filling in the notch on the bottom, and cutting the engagement surface further back; what else is needed to make your military act into a "speed lock". Please don't ask me why, I won't answer.

I would be very grateful for some answers to how. I assume I'll have to trim the firing pin back at the least.

Thank you all for your help.

LD

The cocking ramp on the bolt needs to be altered. Nothing is done to the firing pin.

https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9411043/m/199108015

This may cause me to lose some credence here, but, You should not need to fill in the bottom on a milsurp, they work fine with a Timney trigger. As for the speedlock conversion, it is simply a matter of moving the sear surface to the rear, which allows the bolt to start its movement a little closer to the front end. However, this would be where you would need to fill in the bottom of the cocking piece. One thing to think about; if you do this you will probably encounter some misfires unless you go with a firing pin spring that is considerably stronger, which in turn will cause the bolt lift to be harder to open. Over!

Jim,
I am right there with ya
jeffe

quote:

This may cause me to lose some credence here, but, You should not need to fill in the bottom on a milsurp

Thanks Jim. I had sworn I had used the miltary piece before with an after market trigger with no problem. But someone talked about it locking his bolt. I only had memory (getting full of holes) and no way to test it any longer.

Dayton-Traister sells a "Speedlok" Kit for 98 Mausers which contains an adjustable trigger, a new striker spring, and instructions for modifying the military cocking-piece sear. Because of the shape of the military sear, D-T cautions that only a small amount of steel can safely be removed without weakening the part. If you are interested, Brownells' P/N for the kit is 240-200-098.

Thanks to you all.


I'll either have to lay off the coffee or shoot a Remington once in a while. Hard choice.

LD

Hi Gents -

My Mark X with factory adjustable trigger is the one that "locks up" with the mil surp cocking piece. Filled it in and it functions smooth as silk.

FWIW.

quote:

My Mark X with factory adjustable trigger is the one that "locks up" with the mil surp cocking piece.

Just wondering before morning coffee if a speedlock type bolt would cause the mil surp piece to function differently with the factory trigger.

I checked my rifles last night and I do have an old style MKX (non speed lock) with factory trigger and it works perfect with its surplus cocking piece.

Ramrod -

Distance from the front edge of the sear to the center of the rear action screw on my adjustable trigger is ~1.235". The sear is ~0.325" long.

Is yours the same?

Why?!

Just wondering how Ramrod's Mark X differs from mine... Am I misreading his post?

quote:

I checked my rifles last night and I do have an old style MKX (non speed lock) with factory trigger and it works perfect with its surplus cocking piece.

I'm assuming Ramrod's cocking piece notch is not filled in?

quote:

I'm assuming Ramrod's cocking piece notch is not filled in?

The notch is not filled in. As best I can measure from a quess of the center of the rear screw I'm right at 1.235" However the top of the sear is shorter than .3" on this and several other MKX I checked. Some have a taper on them some don't.

Something is keeping mine from allowing the sear to engage and allowing yours.

Did some more testing. I even took a surplus cocking piece and stuck it in bolt set up for speedlock. Other than being a bear to close since you had to compress the spring it functioned fine. I then took it and ran it in several other MKXs. Some had a taper cut on the leading edge of the sear a couple were square. The ones that were square were much harder to open but the speedlock bolt with surplus cocking piece would close, fire and reopen in 5 different MKX actions.