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Bill's thread on stock painting peeked my interest in trying this. Here are some pictures of an old Bell & Carlson stock that I painted. I have also painted a wood stock in a similar manner and it turned out well. Rather than do the spider-web finish, I tried a Rust-O-Leum product called Make It Stone. It is a spray paint that is designed to give a stone-look finish. I used Black Granite. What I like about this paint is that it also has texture giving the stock a very easy to grip feel. I worried that the finish might be rough on the cheek shooting, but having shot the rifle I experienced no issues. The paint goes on easy. In my experience, short little bursts (like 1 second) work best to dispense the texture. I then sprayed the stock with a cover spray (Ultra 2X Clear Matte). The open issue at this point is how well will it hold up to use. We will see. But it was dead simple to do and the look and feel is pretty nice. Thanks for the idea Bill. Mike | ||
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That looks good! Go figger? | |||
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I like the look. Much better than plain black. Let us know how it holds up. Tom Z NRA Life Member | |||
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Will do. I think one of the keys to maximizing the durability is using the 2X Clear Ultra Coat. That seems to really create a nice shell-like covering. I had the second rifle I painted out to the range today. It is a Springfield in a sporterized military stock. Really worked well on that stock. Obviously it covers any discolored areas, but it also fills in/makes less obvious small indentations. Gives a sporterized rifle like an '03 Springfield a whole new look and lease on life. Mike | |||
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Very nice and a lot easier than carving a real rock stock. My Kimber Montana has a textured synthetic stock which works well [ good gripping surface] though it's solid grey instead of multi-tone . Thank you for not adding an orange recoil pad !! | |||
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that does look about perfect for an extreme weather stock. | |||
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I've used Make it Stone as a texture paint on stocks too. The clear coat covering is VERY important as the bare textured paint does not weather well at all. Otherwise I think it does work pretty well. I painted textured Krylon white on the stock and did a light overspray of the Make it Stone. That was just a little fun project to do something with the Tupperware stock that came with the Marlin rifle after I made a walnut replacement. "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." | |||
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Mike: I saw that stuff in the spray paint aisle while I was looking for the webbing paint. Like you, I was concerned it might abrade my cheek on a heavier recoiling rifle -- and was concerned about durability as well. If yours holds up, it will be an elegant and inexpensive solution for those of us who are forced to hunt in the rain! Looks like yours is a Model 700? There is hope, even when your brain tells you there isn’t. – John Green, author | |||
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It is an old Sportsman 78. I think the clear coat is key to it holding up. I used the Ultra 2X and it is doing fine so far. Frankly, even if it wears it is very easy to touch up. Mike | |||
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Mike, Very nice looking stock (Ugh, complete rifle, actually), Pal. I did the exact same color on a Bell & Carlson Mauser stock, too; and a newly obtained Boyd's TactiCool stock is gonna get the same treatment on a .270 Winchester project. The German paint is for patio furniture (called pebble finish) and there was a learning curve as well. Originally I didn't use a base coat but did the second time around, using a vanilla-flavored matte black as a base. Also didn't cover the intital spray with the clear coat and had to re-do it. ..... but as part of the learning curve; I patted down the cheek piece area of the stock with a kitchen towel (Bounty) when the paint was still tacky (after @ 45 minutes) and managed to smooth it so it was not quite so rough on my my baby-smooth cheeks. Like yourself also found you don't have to glob it on - just quick sprays for a thin coat to cover everything. Did two thin coats of the paint and the clear coat. Also, despite my eagerness to complete the job had to be patient enough for each coat to completely dry (how do I know this?); if every coat isn't perfectly dry the next coat never completely sets and has a tacky feel. I made a template for the pistol grip and forearm with tape on the unfinished stock; roughed it with some sandpaper, sprayed glue on the area - and then used an old pepper shaker with fine sand for an improved purchase. Tuned out to be O.K. but actually the rough pebble coat paint offered plenty of purchase. Turned out appearing exactly like yours and I consider it a pretty spiffy looking stock. Cheers, Number 10 | |||
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I've used rocker schutz in a can and it really liked how it turned out. It dries hard and is fairly durable. | |||
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The Krylon Make it Stone also seems to work well, but it is absolutely essential to put a clear coat over the top. I found the post below on another forum. http://www.rimfirecentral.com/...ex.php/t-163325.html She was only the Fish Mongers daughter. But she lay on the slab and said 'fillet' | |||
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A long time ago I used to inlet and paint stocks when you couldn't buy them finished and always used a paint bay with professional equipment. My hat is off to you; brilliant job. | |||
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Mike, Have you shot the gun much since you painted it? How's the paint doing? I was just at Home depot and they had that paint. I almost bought some to paint an old MPI fiberglass stock but I thought that I'd ask and see how yours was holding up. Frank "I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money." - Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953 NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite | |||
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Guys, just make sure to allow a couple days for the paint to completely dry before doing the clearcoat Otherwise gasses are trapped and the whole job will become a cluster. | |||
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