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Seems to be holding up fine, but the stocks I have painted have not been subjected to hard use. I think without the clear coat it would not hold up well at all. With the clear coat it seems to do okay. The other aspect is that it is very easy to touch up. So even if you do have a rubbed area, you can spray a little make-it-stone on a piece of card board and then take a toothpick or something and touch up the rubbed area . . . then clear coat again. Mike | |||
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I have found that the Krylon matte clear coat works very well over the top of the Krylon fusion camouflage paints. I tried it on a board before spraying the stock. About 8 coats of clear, and used a heat gun on high between each coat. Left over night and goes very hard. Can't scratch with a finger nail and even tried scratching with my car keys with a reasonable pressure, still no damage. When I clear coat the stock, I'll make up a heat box to bake the clear coat. She was only the Fish Mongers daughter. But she lay on the slab and said 'fillet' | |||
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What prep did you do to the stock prior to painting? Sandpaper, solvent wash? Don't limit your challenges . . . Challenge your limits | |||
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All I did was rough up the finish a bit to give the paint better adhesion. Mike | |||
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Fjold, I've actually sold the stock, bought a McMillan Mountain rifle stock in McWoody finish for my Remington 700. However, found that the paint and matte clearcoat over the top works pretty well actually. Certainly no issues with it scratching easily. She was only the Fish Mongers daughter. But she lay on the slab and said 'fillet' | |||
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G'Day Fella's, M Jines, I spray this same Rust-O-leum product but only on the areas where checkering would normally be placed (Pistol Grip and Forend). After a week (to let it cure), I then spray Cerakote over the whole of the synthetic stock! It gives you a good grip, in the normal handling area's of the stock!!! Doh! Homer Lick the Lolly Pop of Mediocrity Just Once and You Will Suck For Life! | |||
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How hard and durable is that spiderweb painting? I've got a custom rifle with a premium synthetic stock, but it's plain black. I generally don't care much how a tool looks, but this is really plain. Just wanted to know if anyone has tried this and if so how it turned out, any tips, etc. I'm definitely going to do something with the bipod. While it's "sort of" a black matte, you could get some reflection, so it's going to get a paint job. | |||
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I used Duracoat to finish a stock recently with a HVLP sprayer. Couldn't be happier. Adjusted pressure and paint flow to get texture (turned out great, but don't overcoat with a fine spray, reduce texture effect - what happened to me). I didn't have 2 colors of paint, but played around and was able to spray spider webs on a cardboard box. So, think I'm going to try a tan or OD stock with black webbing for my Tikka T3. "Evil is powerless if the good are unafraid" -- Ronald Reagan "Ignorance of The People gives strength to totalitarians." Want to make just about anything work better? Keep the government as far away from it as possible, then step back and behold the wonderment and goodness. | |||
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Mike, bumping up this older thread to ask how your paint job has been holding up the past five years. I have a really homely stock to paint and your method seems just as good as the spider-webbing overspray, assuming it is durable. There is hope, even when your brain tells you there isn’t. – John Green, author | |||
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I am going to try that!. IHMSA BC Provincial Champion and Perfect 40 Score, Unlimited Category, AAA Class. | |||
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Still no word from Mike, but I am planning to do a Krag stock with this method. There is hope, even when your brain tells you there isn’t. – John Green, author | |||
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I'd be interested to find out the long term durability too. I have a Ramline Tupperware stock on a rifle that I've thought about painting. Roger ___________________________ I'm a trophy hunter - until something better comes along. *we band of 45-70ers* | |||
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I did this to a pretty rough wood stock a few years back. first we sanded it down and scuffed it up, de-greased it, then built up a few layers of the pebble paint. I run a heat gun over the final coat where your cheek would go while still tacky and pressed that area down with a plastic bondo applicator. let the last coat dry for 24+ hrs then applied 4 or 5 coats of satin clear. I gave the rifle back to the SIL after letting the whole thing sit for a week to cure. he has been hunting with it for 4 or 5 years now and it only has one scratch that really shows up if you have the rifle in hand. I think he actually put that scratch in the finish with a pocket knife seeing just how hard the finish was right after I gave him the rifle back. | |||
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I've painted a lot of stocks with stone paints. Step one sand paper or scotch brite the entire stock Spray a base coat of color matching paint of like manufacture As it dries to a tack apply the stone paint....this takes several coats After about a week apply matte clear of like manufacture ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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Ted, That stone paint application sounds great. I am going to do a TC Encore that way. Thanks for posting, Brian IHMSA BC Provincial Champion and Perfect 40 Score, Unlimited Category, AAA Class. | |||
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