As above please gents, ideally without the use of a complicated custom made jig.


I understand the principle of hanging a plumb-line at a distance using that on the vertical but how does one know if the rifle is perfectly perpendicular to the ground?

What is the datum in other words, ideally for a Sako 75 action?

Whit hanks in advance,

Amir

I will try and explain my method, and hope I succeed. I have a small circular liquid level, that has a outlined circle in the center. There is a small bubble tha when is centered in the small outlined circle, its level all the way around, from front to back, side to side. I put this on the bottom half of a scope ring, or the base if it has a flat enough area to hold the level.
Once it is leveled, and secured in the gun vise, I put the scope in, put the top rings on and then put the level on the top crosshair adjustment turret. I can then tell that the scope is not tilted, and also that it is not tipped forward or backward due to ring differences.
I have done this on several rifles when I worked at a gunshop and it seemed to work fine, including several for long range shooters who shot to 1000 yards plus.
Hope this helps, if not drop me a PM and I will call you and try to clear up what I am trying to convey.

quote:

Originally posted by congomike:
I will try and explain my method, and hope I succeed. I have a small circular liquid level, that has a outlined circle in the center. There is a small bubble tha when is centered in the small outlined circle, its level all the way around, from front to back, side to side. I put this on the bottom half of a scope ring, or the base if it has a flat enough area to hold the level.
Once it is leveled, and secured in the gun vise, I put the scope in, put the top rings on and then put the level on the top crosshair adjustment turret. I can then tell that the scope is not tilted, and also that it is not tipped forward or backward due to ring differences.
I have done this on several rifles when I worked at a gunshop and it seemed to work fine, including several for long range shooters who shot to 1000 yards plus.
Hope this helps, if not drop me a PM and I will call you and try to clear up what I am trying to convey.

Those are called "Bullseye" levels for obvious reasons. Those things are handy for all manner of projects. If you can get one on the flat of the receiver where the bolt goes in, you can keep an eye on the rifle and make sure it doesn't cant if it isn't in a gun vise. Midway USA sells a set of levels which have magnets attached to keep them on the firearm.

EXD device




put your rifle in a bench vise and when it reads level the scope axis and bore axis is aligned and the rifle is uncanted



aim it out the door at a distant horizontal and vertical object (4' level on fence, hanging rope with weight on end, edge of building, etc). Rotate scope in rings until level with distant object while EXD is level

Good time to install anti-cant device





so you can duplicate at the bench or in the field cause (regarding cant) nothing else matter except a level reticle when pulling the trigger

More info

Well, I don't make is so complicated...

I put a Scopelevel on the scope, then rotate the scope (loose in the rings) until the vertical crosshair aligns with a thin rope plumb bob 50 yards away. Tighten the rings. Then rotate the scopelevel so that the bubble is level. Tighten.

Put a 4 foot tall target at 100 yards. Dial the scope down 20 MOA and fire a group. Dial it up 60 MOA and fire a group. Put a plumb bob in the center of the group at the top. Does it cover the bottom group? if so, you are good to go.

I have never understood all this hardware, etc. You want the scope to be level to eliminate tracking to the side when making large elevation changes. Fine. My method shows you that.

Hmmm...sounds like I can make a story of that.

I read about the rope/string method long ago (I think on 6mmbr) and was also told about that method by a tech at NightForce. That is how I leveled my scope.

I have a picatinny rail and a US Optics level fastened to the rail. My NF scope has a fine reticle, so I used a heavy string. This is a very simple and effective method.

Thank you gents, good stuff.

+1 on the EXD!

405wcf

I have done it, on Mauser actioned bolt rifles, by EYE! First REMOVE the bolt.

In that I hold the rifle to the shoulder and then twist the 'scope until the VERTICAL crosshair (or post) is aligned and centred on the now empty boltway in general and the bolt sear specifically.

You'll find that crude as this is the eye will actually work. After all it is how we can tell if a picture hangs level...by eye!

Now this is far from conventional, but here is what I do.

Stand up, hold the rifle offhand. Adjust scope until it "looks right".

This works for me because I don't always prefer my rifle to be completely level, but I obviously do want my scope level. When it "looks right", I am very rarely off by much at all.

I use a Segway Reticle Leveler...20 bucks from Midway...simple, quick, easy to use...can be used along with checking the lower vertical reticle through the rifle bore centerline.

Been using the same one so long I can't remember doing it any other way.

Luck

This is a custom 50 cal MZLDR I have been working on nothing fancy but will work for demonstration.

The tools are the long plumb bob tool I use to allign the front ring with the rifles center line. The others are trivial except the power lapp tool.

Putting the rifle in a vice I first level the ring top


This puts the rifle level with the black grid lines on the wall. I use these to square the cross hairs later.


This is the jig that I use to allign the front ring to the bore centerline. It is a long length of 1" CRS drilled and tapped for a hollow 1/4 20 set screw into a nylon line and a brass plumb bob is inserted


Here you can see the front is now on bore centerline


The pointed rear of the long centerline jig makes checking in the rear easy also.



Then align the rear ring with the front I like to use the flat ends of my point jigs as this gives me far more eyeball area


Then lap the rings in with a drill and 220 compound


The lap is just 1" CRS with a groove I cut to hold the lapping compound drilled and tapped 3/8 16 with a long drill shank I made from welding a bolt to drillrod.


I then clean up the rings,oil the inside and drop in the scope aligning the scope with the level grid on the far wall. Tourqe up screws to german specifications (Goodantight) and your done.

Use a rail-mounted scope!

quote:

Originally posted by Tyler Kemp:
Now this is far from conventional, but here is what I do.

Stand up, hold the rifle offhand. Adjust scope until it "looks right".

This works for me because I don't always prefer my rifle to be completely level, but I obviously do want my scope level. When it "looks right", I am very rarely off by much at all.

It may "look" level to you, but if the crosshair isn't perfectly perpendicular to the pull of gravity, you are going to see large windage errors as you click up at very long range.