What is the best thing you have used to waterproof boots?

Also, what do you do in the field to assure your boots remain waterproof? I ask because my boots were waterproof for about half the hunt in my last trip to the Yukon. Wet feet are about as much fun as having dinner with the ex wife!


Thanks all!

Nikwax from REI.

Kenetrek Waterproofing Boot Wax works well for me and it will not harm the rand on boots.

Sno-seal boot wax for leather boots, similar to the kenetrek that Biggs mentioned...lot of people use them up here in Alaska, I used them on my Lowa boots for sheep hunting until I went to the dark side and turned to Plastics.

Plastics ?

Larry,

I used plastics as well on my recent hunt in New Zealand. Even so, I still took that tumble down the hill. But what we are referring to as plastics are technical climbing boots. They basically have an insulated bootie which is then inserted into a plastic boot housing that is waterproofed with rubber. Sorry but I don't remember the brand name of mine. For the most part, they provide superior ankle support and where you put your foot is where it stays!!

Maybe someone here can give you a brand name to look up but I would highly recommend them for your sheep hunt.

I used some knee high rubber boots in Alaska over some thick Cabela's boot socks. In crossing a river, I got water in the boots but even after many hours my feet never got cold.

quote:

Originally posted by AKsheephunter:
Sno-seal boot wax for leather boots, similar to the kenetrek that Biggs mentioned...lot of people use them up here in Alaska, I used them on my Lowa boots for sheep hunting until I went to the dark side and turned to Plastics.

+1 i love that stuff and not only for hunting mountain boots.

This is one of the things that makes AR so great. Personally, I have never heard of "plastics". I would have had no idea to look for these boots. If anyone has a brand name, I would appreciate it.

No one has thus far adressed one issue I raised. What do you all do in the field to help maintain the waterproofing? Do you reapply Snow Seal or some other substance?

Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by larryshores:
Plastics ?

Larry as quoted by Todd Williams : plastic are really technical boots.

if this is what you need : Koflach and Scarpa are coming to my mind there is certainly other brands.

but i wont use them myself except if winter hunting in the mountains is on the plan.

but again what locals are using is not what non-residents will do.

Larry what your outfitter recommends? of course good recommendation based on his experience not given troughout any paid program.

all the best.

I used the Koflach hunters, which are a totaly plastic boot, for a few years, buth they are so ridgid that my feet get sore in them after several days. Several people I know have used Scarpa boots and the ones that use them like them.
I've used Sportiva semi plastic boots quite a bit. I've always liked them.
If a technical boot is desired, I'd recommend the semi plastic type boots like the Scarpa or Sportiva. They offer up great foot portection with some flexibility.

I've used the Kenetrek Boot Wax (on my Kenetrek boots) and I've also used Sno Seal (quite a bit). I like to warm (not cook) the boots up in the oven first so the Sno Seal melts and really soaks in.

quote:

Originally posted by larryshores:
What is the best thing you have used to waterproof boots?

Also, what do you do in the field to assure your boots remain waterproof? I ask because my boots were waterproof for about half the hunt in my last trip to the Yukon. Wet feet are about as much fun as having dinner with the ex wife!


Thanks all!

Anticipating you refer to all leather boots or those with leather uppers, such as L. L. Bean's Maine Guide boots, how leather has been tanned is significant for proper selection of waterproofing agent.

A generation ago I bought two pair of hiking-hunting boots with Norwegian welt soling. I visited the [then] in-house boot repair shop at REI in Seattle to identify seam sealer and routine maintenance procedure. It was this man who informed me that using agents, designed for chrome tanned leather, on vegetable tanned leather - and vice versa - accelerates deterioration of that leather.

Whether or not this distinction is valid today I cannot confirm. I suggest you query people who repair built-to-order boots for your answer.

Hope this helps.

With leather boots it is all about the goretex membrane inside as well as changing your socks once or twice a day. I think most of what we think is a leaking boot is perspiration from our feet.
You can rub in all the water proofing stuff you want but will still end up with holes from the stitching where water gets in.

If we are moose, bear or deer hunting we wear knee high rubber boots.

quote:

Originally posted by larryshores:
Plastics ?

Larry,

I mentioned to you earlier in your first thread to read the link I gave you to Brett Barringer's hunt report.

Yes many of the pictures are gone but the information is still priceless. At the end of the report is his "gear review". Here's the boots report.

Boots: Scarpa Koflach - I'm extremely impressed with these! 3 of the 4 of us used them. I have yet to get my first blister. They are extremely forgiving. Mild flexion in the ankle allows for comfortable movement on flat ground. They breath well. The booty is nice for camp use. I'll use plastics for the rest of my life for sheep. I can't even imagine packing out without them.


Thread link

As mentioned earlier by Snowwolf, foot perspiration is a major problem and changing out socks 2x/day is wise. Leather boots are still leather boots. I've had and still have some of the best leather mountaineering boots available, Italian, Austrian, Belgian, list goes on. Given more than three days in the Alaska bush IN wet weather walking in water there is no leather boot that remains 100% waterproof. Plastics are a good option and they have come a long way in the past 10 years with improvements in flexibility. Still the go to setup IMO is simms wading pants and outer boot work great, yes you still have to change socks to feel dry when starting the day.

If its not to much trouble, could someone post a picture of "plastics ", I'm curious to see what they look like.

Peter

I read the gear report. I would have sworn he used Kennetrek boots. Obviously I was wrong.

The plastics are intriguing . They seem to weigh about a pound less than leather. That could be huge.

I saw them at Barney's booth in Reno. Wish I had paid more attention.

The new Koflach degre are a sheephunters dream, Yes, I got mine from Barneys here in Anchorage, and I use them in the late Summer when Sheep season opens, I'm going on my 3rd year with them, and they are still hanging tough, I am very rough with boots, because I like to side hill alot in some rough shale, the key to these boots (as mentioned earlier) they are like a ski boot and will protect your ankle!!! They also have green dot vibram soles so they are the strongest SOFT sole on the market and what you need for on the rock and shale, the soft sole will give you extra traction amongst the rocky terrain.I used to have Lowa sheephunters, but they only lasted 2 seasons, and got tore up pretty bad, plus (IMO) they trap moisture into the boot when the wool socks wick the sweat away from your feet, and leave a strong smelling stinchy odor while sheep hunting and I don't like packing around the extra weight of a can of Desenex. The plastics have an inner boot like stated before you can use around camp, also you can slip on the glacial socks over the inner boot and slip right into the plastic and cross any creek or stream waist high. However,... Plastics are NOT for everyone, and it took some time for be to get used to, but once I did....I never looked back. With plastics, my feet feel more confident and with a lighter boot it feels a whole lot better to me...They even work well on flat land hunting Bou in the Tussoks. If you get them, whether its the Scarpa Omegas or the Koflach degre, take the laces they came with and throw them out, and spend the extra $7 and get the Kevlar boot laces, they won't fail you.

Another point to add....
If you decide on the plastics, get them now and start walking around with them, around the house or even around the yard outside, pack a load with them and go for a hike so come That magical Month of August, as we all say here in AK.....you'll be used to them and ready to go, Do not however try to drive or operate a vehicle with these, I wouldn't recommend it, To me ...there's not enough dexterity for driving. Good luck......Lots of new gear out there.

quote:

Originally posted by larryshores:
I read the gear report. I would have sworn he used Kennetrek boots. Obviously I was wrong.

The plastics are intriguing . They seem to weigh about a pound less than leather. That could be huge.

I saw them at Barney's booth in Reno. Wish I had paid more attention.

Larry,

I purchased my plastics at Barney's while on layover in Anchorage, on the way to Kamchatka. I have an issue with my left ankle that requires extra support when hunting the mountains. The plastics solve that problem 100% and as mentioned earlier, the foot stays where it is placed with significantly less slipping and sliding.

Thanks guys. These sound like the thing I need.

I want to make sure. Are these 100% waterproof?

quote:

Originally posted by larryshores:
Thanks guys. These sound like the thing I need.

I want to make sure. Are these 100% waterproof?

As long as you don't poke a hole in the plastic (INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT......scratch that IMPOSSIBLE) or you dump water in the top of the boot. You will get a bit of moisture on warmer days from swet, but it will dry well once you remove your boots in your tent at night. Ask your outfitter how much stream crossing you will do and the depth of the streams. If it's simple few inches of water in a stream or two don't worry. If you really do have some stream crossing to do you might consider buying glacier socks from Barney's to take with you.

Brett

PS. Make sure you use Kevlar core laces. That will keep your laces from being sliced on shale.

As requested, here is a picture of my plastics. Koflach brand.

Scarpa currently owns the Koflach name. I would look at their Scarpa Koflach Degree boot.

http://barneyssports.com/footw...re-plastic-boot.html

Brett

Brett:

I ordered those boots today.

Thanks for the help.

I'm sure everyone down there in Florida will think your crazy wearing them around down there.... have fun playing with them !!!!

quote:

Originally posted by AKsheephunter:
I'm sure everyone down there in Florida will think your crazy wearing them around down there.... have fun playing with them !!!!

Just tell them you are getting ready to go skiing.

....or ice climbing!!!

You're welcome Larry!

Brett

You won't regret them Larry. They are awesome!

Have a look at these

http://www.military1st.co.uk/1...ow-boots-arctic.html

With neoprene socks

For me

Anybody can make a waterproof boot

But weight is a big issue where I hunt

Russia

Siberia

And the Balkans

Alaska no difference

Light , dry , insulate

If you are dry

You will stay warm with body heat

quote:

Originally posted by Alaska Hunter:
I like to warm (not cook) the boots up in the oven first so the Sno Seal melts and really soaks in.

This was my practice too, until I inadvertantly melted the plastic toe caps under the leather! . I would run the oven on "warm" which was 170 deg. It proved to be too much of a good thing (but the snow-seal really absorbed nicely into the boot!).

friar

Try using a hair dryer when applying the SnoSeal.

For those of you with plastics: is there any flex in the midsole and the toe, or is the boot completely stiff except for the ankle?

I have another question on the plastics. I have had one person tell me that they were great for the feet and ankles. However, they were tough on the knees.

For those of you that have worn them, is this true?

Just a fact Larryshores that any time you add stability to a joint you add stress to the next joint up or down but the most dramatic is stabilizing the ankle and adding stress to the knee. Taping an Athlete’s ankles to tight or rigid allows much more stress to be passed to the knee. I have no experience with plastic boots for hiking but plenty with Athlete’s ankles and knees.
My Athletic advice is; if you go to a more stable ankle, get some more muscle around the knee before you plan on taking big advantage of the superior ankle.
Best regards,

Thanks. I am pretty strong around the knees. I lift weights a lot with my legs. I have tears in 2 menisci (one in each knee). These cannot be repaired. If they do anything, the menisci will have to come out. I have ZERO pain and/or discomfort right now. Obviously, I do not want to start. I am a bit concerned since I heard this.

I guess I will have to try them and find out.

Thanks.

You don't have to buy them to try. You can tape your ankles tight and then walk some sidehills, up and downhills there where you live in your current boots and get the same degree of effect to see how your knees react. Of course you will have to duplicate the effort to duplicate the results.
there is not much way to protect torn meniscus.
The price of hard miles. You will feel the downhills the worst!

Larry,
I wear the Koflachs alot and I have had no problems with them affecting my knees, Yes they are stiffer, and there is very minimal flexibility within the boot itself. Brett could probably explain more or better on how these boots work and what they impact on the foot/knee, because he is in the medical profession. let us know when you get them and how they work for you,get the inner intuition boot heat molded to your foot and if you can find some rock structures to walk on to get a feel.....enjoy the Koflachs

Thanks.

I have these coming. I also have a new pair of Kennetreks. I guess I will try them both. I am thinking a trip to west TX to hunt Aoudad may tell me a lot.

Not much flexibility in the midsole and toe. In fact, none. Just the ankle forward and back, no side to side. That's the point of plastics! It's amazing what that does for foot stability on the side of a shale covered mountain!! It's the main reason I wear them. I've had multiple back surgeries leaving me with about 20% (L) and 60% (R) nerve function of the Proneal (sp) nerve that control the muscles in the shin, controlling the ankles. Without serious stability aids to the ankles, my mountain days would be history. The plastics work well for me. I did take a nasty fall this past June in NZ but that wasn't a stability issue. Just ice with a misplaced step.

Larry,

I haven't had a problem with my knees so for me, the plastics have had no adverse affect on same. If you have knee issues, you'll have to try them to see if they affect you or not. My guess is that you'll be a convert the first time you start side hilling in the rocks!!