For this build we've gone with one of our own actions. The barrel is K&P 12 twist #5 contour. Being more of a machinist type and less of a Blacksmith type my approach to the tange work is cnc machine them to the shapes needed and weld them on. I surface grind the width of the top tange so its nearly a press fit into the welding fixture this holds it very straight during welding. The end screw location for the hole a c-bore was held to .002 total location, thats .001 on the radius, not too shabby, happy with that. Willing to do more when required.
On the plains of hesitation lie the bleached bones of ten thousand, who on the dawn of victory lay down their weary heads resting, and there resting, died.
If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue, Or walk with Kings - nor lose the common touch... Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it, And - which is more - you'll be a Man, my son! - Rudyard Kipling
Originally posted by setters5: Very nice! Tangs must be a piece of cake if you can build the action
I am the combination of every craftsman I ever worked for or knew. Making tangs can be a piece of cake with the correct skills in place and a good plan on how to go about it. All the little details make up the big picture. Like a painter all the little details in the correct order at the correct time make a painting that is pleasing to the eye. Same in rifles, get all the little details in the correct order.
As far as CNC stuff goes I highly recommend the technology, and truly believe that every small custom gun shop should have at least one programable 2 axis knee mill, Southwest industries is a great product. I've had mine 23 years, its been a great tool, wouldn't be without it. As far as programming for beginners there is a ton of support out there. The uses are next to endless, hell I even set mine up to do the dishes and the laundry.....well maybe not ..
Nice! A gnats hair fit all around. The woodgrain on the right side is incredible with rare contrast. An equal quality cheek piece side woodgrain [hint] would be great.
Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can.
Posts: 5305 | Location: Near Hershey PA | Registered: 12 October 2012
Congratulations on your work. Very few people have the skill to produce both an action and a stock. Even fewer have the talent to merge them into a work of art.
Originally posted by thirdbite: Congratulations on your work. Very few people have the skill to produce both an action and a stock. Even fewer have the talent to merge them into a work of art.
Thank you, I've had some really good teachers over the years and I'm sure there's more to learn.
Let me say that I think that is some great machining and 'smithing. Very well done. My question is, does the thicker point of the comb lead to more uncomfortable recoil on heavy recoiling rifles? I know you can thin it up more at the cost of producing "razor edges" of wood where it joins the tang which isn't a good thing either. Hope you don't take the question the wrong way, just trying to learn something.
"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading".
Originally posted by clowdis: Let me say that I think that is some great machining and 'smithing. Very well done. My question is, does the thicker point of the comb lead to more uncomfortable recoil on heavy recoiling rifles? I know you can thin it up more at the cost of producing "razor edges" of wood where it joins the tang which isn't a good thing either. Hope you don't take the question the wrong way, just trying to learn something.
The width of the top tang going over the comb nose is .280 still pretty narrow. I think the bigger we go in calibers the more pleasant/unpleasant they are to shoot. comb noses don't add up to much in the grand scheme of recoil. Comb height, cast, drop affects felt recoil a lot more. What dimensions do you like?
"The width of the top tang going over the comb nose is .280 still pretty narrow. I think the bigger we go in calibers the more pleasant/unpleasant they are to shoot. comb noses don't add up to much in the grand scheme of recoil. Comb height, cast, drop affects felt recoil a lot more. What dimensions do you like?"
For a scoped rifle I like about an inch of drop at the point of the comb and about 1 1/4 at the heel. A 1/4 offset is plenty for me. For shooting with iron sights I would use a completely different setup. Got a steel shoulder last year so I don't really care for the big recoilers anymore. Either way, a rifle that is made to fit you is one of the most enjoyable things you can have, a real pleasure to shoot.
"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading".
[/url [url=https://ibb.co/YXkqG35] While waiting for a rear sight to arrive from NECG I decided to run a few rounds down range to get an idea on how this one will perform on a 100yd target. 6 rounds total, 3 handloads, 3 commercial loads, put one kind of low but not too shabby I'm thinking. Next is checkering and Bluing.
Thanks for the positive feedback, I truly appreciate it. Happy to add to the forum as well.
Kudos to all those who help to make this an interesting place to show custom work both builders and those who truly appreciate and use these hand created rifles. Without you this work, this trade does not exist as we currently know it, and for that. I'm grateful.
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