quote:

Originally posted by Dog Man:
How the hell am I gonna learn anything if you guys solve this stuff in private.

quote:

Originally posted by Dog Man:
How the hell am I gonna learn anything if you guys solve this stuff in private.

quote:

Originally posted by Dog Man:
How the hell am I gonna learn anything if you guyssolve this stuff in private.

quote:

originally posted by MacD37

Lane, The problem could be a number of things, but I suspect the problem is the way you are shooting the rifle!

A double rifle must be shot as if off hand, holding the rifle with the left hand (assuming you are right handed) holding the rifle at the nose of the fore-end wood with you fingers wrapped around the barrels. The rifle must not touch anything other that your hands, shoulder, and face while firing it. You cannot rest a double rifle directly on anything and still get proper regulation. It is all right to rest your forehand on bags but not the rifle. The double rifle depends on the un-hindered free recoils arch to regulate properly. Use you stony point but place a sand bag on top of it and rest your forehand on the bag. Do not let the rifle rest on the stony point, or the bag, but hold it in your hand. The deep “V” will grab the rifle not allowing it to recoil properly.

To start with the barrels must be cool, and fire the right trigger first, with the second barrel being fired within 8 seconds of the first shot. The double rifle was designed to be fire from a cool barrel set for the first two shots, as you would fire the first two in the field.

When trying to find the proper load you need to fire a six round composite group three from each barrel, but each two shots fired from a cool barrel set. Six shots fired starting with cool barrels will not let you see how the load is working in your rifle. These three shots from each barrel must have each two fire from cool barrels, to let you see what each barrel is doing in relation to the aiming point, and the other barrel. This will allow you to find the exact center of each barrels group.

The best way to do this is to fire each barrel on a separate target using the same aiming point on each target. This way you can find the CENTER of each barrel’s individual group in relation to the aiming point. The center of each barrel’s individual group with a perfect load should be on it’s own side of the aiming point. With the aiming point half way between the centers.

Bullet holes are not what you are looking for but the center of each barrel’s group. Certainly some of each barrel will spill over into the other barrel’s group, but the centers should remain consistently on it’s own side of the aiming point no matter the distance.
Once the two groups centers are found then you can measure the COMPOSITE GROUP from outside of each barrel’s widest shot through the aiming point to get the composite’ over all width. With this you know if the load is shooting properly in your rifle.


Now let the rifle cool to “ROOM “ temperature so to speak Now place an 8” bull’s eye at 25 yards, and fire a four shot composite group off hand at that target, as fast as you can get the sights on the X-ring, fire two, reload as fast as you can and fire the other two. If you can keep all the four rounds on the 8” black you are ready for Buffalo.

....Mac >>>===(x)===> MacD37, ...and DUGABOY1
DRSS Charter member
"If I die today, I've had a life well spent, for I've been to see the Elephant, and smelled the smoke of Africa!"~ME 1982

Hands of Old Elmer Keith

quote:

Originally posted by 500N:
Just maybe, try a different powder.
.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Brooks:
Perhaps you could run some conventional rounds thru it to see if there is a problem with the NF's or the rifle?

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Brooks:
Load some with Woodies or any cup and core to see if it possibly could be the NF's. Slight possibility maybe.

quote:

Originally posted by ledvm:
What is the next go-to powder? IMR 4831???

www.heymusa.com


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quote:

Originally posted by Peter:
ledvm, did you see the targets and loads I posted for my Blaser S2 in 500NE? As I recollect I used 93 grains of RL15 but do a search.
Peter.

quote:

Originally posted by ledvm:
.500 N E Merkel 140 has just had 10 rounds shot through it. I am just getting started with load development. Shooting NF solids over R-15. 96 gr put them in vertical alignment at ~2120 fps but the left shot over the right consistently.

Was looking for things to be tried in loading.

Will shoot a little more before passing judgement.

Just for discussion...the Left barrel was consistenly 10 fps faster than the right.

....Mac >>>===(x)===> MacD37, ...and DUGABOY1
DRSS Charter member
"If I die today, I've had a life well spent, for I've been to see the Elephant, and smelled the smoke of Africa!"~ME 1982

Hands of Old Elmer Keith

quote:

Originally posted by new_guy:

I would try the 4350s. H, IMR, Accurate, etc...

I have no experience with the new RL 17, but the burn rate seems like it would work (slower than RL 15, but faster than 19.)

quote:

Originally posted by Dave Bush:
ledvm:

Please remember that bullet shape plays an important part in regulation. Do you know what your gun was regulated with?

quote:

Originally posted by 500N:

quote:

Originally posted by Dave Bush:
ledvm:

Please remember that bullet shape plays an important part in regulation. Do you know what your gun was regulated with?

Dave

Agreed. I think that was alluded to although maybe not spelled out in the post above where someone mentions using Woodleigh's or others in case it's the NF's.

quote:

Originally posted by JohnDL:
Welcome to the wonderful world of reloading for DR's! Next to blindfolded golf, it can be about the most frustrating thing in the world.

At times I've thought it is a disadvantage to have previous experience in reloading, because it is so different. You have to change your whole thought process.

The first double that I reloaded for was a Marcel Thys .500, back in the '80's. It infuriated me that I couldn't make it get over 2080 fps. I was a slow learner and eventually learned that your goals with a DR are quite different. With regular reloading, you want good groups, velocity, with a good bullet. The fact that you started with NF's betrays your past. As Mike pointed out, it is most unlikely your rifle was regulated with these. Start with Woodleighs and branch out from there.

Even if I am handloading, I still like to see how factory ammo does in a rifle (it's always nice to know that I can use the store bought stuff if need be). I find that is a good starting point. You can pick up a few Kynochs, Hornadays, WR's, and see how she does.

At the end of the day, if your rifle will only regulate with particular components, so what? Consider yourself lucky and move on.

Hopefully you are smarter than me and will throw away 90% of your previous reloading experience.

quote:

Originally posted by ledvm:

quote:

Originally posted by 500N:

quote:

Originally posted by Dave Bush:
ledvm:

Please remember that bullet shape plays an important part in regulation. Do you know what your gun was regulated with?

Dave

Agreed. I think that was alluded to although maybe not spelled out in the post above where someone mentions using Woodleigh's or others in case it's the NF's.

The bullets will be the last thing I change. Will if necessary...but gonna try all else first.

Have no earthly idea what it was regulated with...I am sure what ever is standard with Merkel.

quote:

Originally posted by 500N:
ledvm

I diagree with the bullet being the last thing to change.

IMHO, as has been hinted at above, with any DR, I believe you get it shooting with a standard load and standard bullets (or as suggested above, factory Ammo) and then move away from here because you know what the base line is and can always go back to it.

ie. Your gun might shoot like it is with every bullet, but until you know that, then you could just be chasing your tail.

A bit like changing 2 components at once during the reloading process, seeing a major change / improvement but not knowing which component caused it.

.