Found this in an old magazine article on a 411-284 wildcat....any thoughts?



Roger

I've done A LOT worse things fireforming -- and since it's a chamber insert, not a barrel... well, let's say this was pretty smart

bt, don't use talc for filler -- not that it's super abrasive (it's a polish) but it makes a smoke cloud like 2f swiss bp, and it won't go away

...bit of an aside question....maybe more for Gunsmithing....

Drill Rod.....What exactly is it? Silver steel, 4140, C1030/40 or what steel would you use for this sort of item ? If you ask for Drill Rod here in Oz, you'll either get a funny look or a length of NQ or PQ pipe to put an auger on....

Roger

Drill rod in the states is Precision ground rod of various steels.

When I was well drilling, Drill rod or "sucker rod" was the rod that went down the hole.

https://www.metalsdepot.com/to...roducts/w1-drill-rod

"drill rod" in the case of the quote, is a flex that it wasn't hot rolled round stock -- oh, and maybe also that it was "tool steel" whatever that is .. d2, which hardened, would likely shatter!

it's just precision ground round stock, generally of a decent grade of steel - like 4130 would work GREAT in this, 4140 too, o1 is always a good choice - he didn't mention tempering, etc, processes, so i'd go with 4130

but O1 cuts like machining wax and takes an edge

use a cheap Mauser action or whatever with a 10 inch barrel stuck in a vise..Have several barrels chambered to screw in.

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
use a cheap Mauser action or whatever with a 10 inch barrel stuck in a vise..Have several barrels chambered to screw in.

Yeah, but that's an sbr

Okay, so I read this and have a ‘project’ currently of trying to fireform 300 PRC brass out to 375 Ruger. I took a scrap 30 cal bbl and reamed the bore out to .375 and chambered w/ a 375 Ruger reamer. 300 PRC will seat .060” further in so I faced the bbl off til it was flush, contoured the outside so it slips in a Win 37 ss 12 ga I had laying around, and then drilled out the neck portion so the brass was still tight but will expand the neck oversize so I can fl size and create a shoulder to headspace on.

Question is, what powder to use and how much? I’ve never used cow or corn meal method before…

This covers it. I use the same method.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com...1#lg=3206733&slide=0

HS-6, toilet paper, and corn meal. I did 50 cases today in the barrel liner in an old single shot 12 ga. I did need to use large pistol primers as 2 out of 3 large rifle primers did not fire. Good news is 14ish gr HS-6 w/ 1/2 sheet of toilet paper tamped down on top followed by corn meal filled to base of neck followed by another 1/2 square of tp tamped down. Cases were blown out beautifully, necks opening up to .450” and much more evenly than progressively expanding up from 30 caliber to 375. When using expanding mandrels the necks would lengthen more on one side and generally overall poor results…this was way better.

Drill rod is made from High carbon steel, sometimes with alloys in it like Cr and Mo. But the carbon is really high; .7 at least up to 1.5%. Comes in 3 flavors; air, water, and oil hardening. It is not barrel steel.
Mauser actions are not cheap in New Zealand.
I do not fire form anything; waste of primers and time.
I make plugs and open up the necks in dies. I have none of the problems outlined above.

11 grs of Hercules. maybe a bit more/

I’m now contemplating ANOTHER ’insert’ to full headspace of the 375 Ruger to finish the job and have fully fireformed cases. It may be a novel idea, but it does do a very good job IMO.