I am pretty new to the world of big bores. I do have several 45/70s and a 405 Winchester, but just took the plunge and acquired a 470 Capstick. Always wanted a true blue African big five gun!

I am an experienced reloader. Looks like Quality Cartridge has brass. Hornady has bullets. I can special order some dies.

How about "factory" ammo? Once upon a time Kynoch brand and A-Square had ammo. Any of this still available anywhere?

Thanks for any suggestions.

I'm not aware of any large production loadings for the 470 Capstick. It seems to be custom loading may be the main source other than handloading for it. But, What rifle did you get??

Winchester Model 70 Custom Express, NIB

That must be one of the Big Five Safari set. Nice! What were they...338, 375, 416, 458 and 470? Each was named for a different African animal.

I put in a supply of BeLL brass while it existed.
If starting off now, I would get properly headstamped brass from Quality Cartridge, and handload.

Beware the 1 of 125 Big Five Custom Shop rifles in .470 Capstick.
They are known to have had oversized barrels.
I have one of them in .416 RemMag, with the cape buffalo in gold on the floorplate.
My buddy, Big Chief Thunderstick, had one in .470 Capstick.
It would keyhole with the early North Fork bullets of .474" diameter,
Mike Brady changed them to .475" diameter after correspondence with me.
Those did not keyhole in the Custom Shop job.
My .470 Capstick with a McGowen barrel shot well with either diameter.
It was about 0.5 MOA for 3 shots with 85.0 grains of H4895 Extreme and the North Fork .474"/500-grain Cup Point.
Velocity was getting close to 2400 fps MV from my 26" McGowen barrel of 1:10" twist.
Keep that load in mind for an accuracy load, CCI 250 primer, and 3.595" COL, in BeLL brass.

Rip ...

I do not believe this one of the big five series.
There are not fancy engraving or inlays.
This is a custom shop order from the early 1990s.
It's called a "custom express" which I believe is a custom shop "super express".

I am planning to reload with the quality cartridge brass.
Any recommendations on dies?

Will a seater die also crimp, or should I also get a taper crimp die?

Thanks for the help folks. This a new realm for me!!!

With all of the 470 Capsticks having come from the Custom Shop, BF series and yours,
it would still be a good idea to slug your barrel and see if it is .475" in the grooves.

Do you know the twist that they used? I do not know it. Anything from 1:10" to 1:22" will do fine.
The old tight-patch-on-a-jag-on-a-ball-bearing-handled-cleaning-rod check of the twist rate would be interesting.

I use RCBS dies.

RCBS 3-DIE SET .470 CAPSTICK
P/N: 56692
Group L
Use Shell Holder #4

Set contains:
FL sizing die
Case mouth belling die
Seater die

The crimp built into the seater die is all I have ever needed.

Rip ...

Graf's has brass!!
https://www.grafs.com/retail/c...ory/categoryId/3740?



If it is a custom express ( i had sample set of ONE) then the front "bedding" is more like hot glue ... if you remove the action from the stock, the "bedding" on the front lug will be soft .. you can certain press a dime into it, or fingernail -- i strongly suggest having it (or DIY) properly bedded and have an axial wrist pin added - i prefer marinetex grey .. NOT THE WHITE, as the white is designed to be pliable. a brass, bronze, or stainless rod in the wrist ---

also, the ENTIRE radius of the tang MUST have a pronounced clearance from the stock - at least .025 or it WILL chip (larger sample set of big bore winnies)

as RIP stated, there could be an oversized barrel issue ... therefore, don't be surprised is .473 or .474 bullets keyhole - just known that this means you'll need larger -- if not, EXCELLECT

speer golddot/deepcurl .475 400gr bullets are great for plinking and north america hunting - these are TOUGH bullets --

while others recommend other powders, i have a STRONG preference for h335, especially in bigbores, and explicitly for straight walled cases .. in my 470 AccRel, i tend to use 70gr for a starting load, and work up from there .. i believe all of the loads are available on ammoguide, with link my signature -- and the annual fee there (i receive nothing from this) is well worthwhile

i also suggest doing all your dev work without a scope and DO NOT LET THE TOE OF THE STOCK TOUCH THE BENCH IN ANYWAY- EVER - not on a sandbag, not once, not ever -- i've seen way to many stocks broken for this, and the safari express stock is NOT any different in this matter.

This is an excellent round, in a desirable rifle, and is tons of fun to shoot .. especially with the 400gr speers at hogs, deer, elk, moose, rabbits, and even clay pigeons in a creekbank ..

you can use hornady basic brass, or 458 lott brass, properly trimmed if needed, to get started -

https://www.speer-ammo.com/en/.../475/475-400-gr-gdsp

https://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/7099

You guys are making me nervous I got a lemon! I am excited to work with it, but I hope I have a good one. I have done bedding work before, but never an axial wrist bolt. Recommendations for somebody who could do that if needed?

Regarding, "slugging the bore", is that really as simple as driving a soft lead ball or fishing sinker down from the muzzle end and thru the barrel? Do you worry about damaging the barrel crown doing that?

Hypothetically, lets say its oversize 0.475, what true African hunting bullets exist in that size? I know there are many in the 0.474 size that were designed for the 470NE.

Thanks again folks. Learning a lot here!

myself, i wouldn't bother slugging the bore -- if it keyholes, it does, but likely wont ...

you will NOT see the advertised vels "advertised" for the 470 .. if you get 500 at 2300, STOP .. and a true 2150/500gr is more than enough to kill anything and has -- and will FEEL like 1/2 the recoil of 2300

axial pin? it's not hard, but its easy to screw up ... but, hey, there's a cap on the pistol grip, so it'll be easier to fix ... i take a 3/8 drill from the rear of the tang, and use a 1/4 stainless tube most of the time ... perhaps its overkill, perhaps not, but all of my personal big bores guns have it


lemon? nah, just that sometimes an apple can be pear shaped .. nothing to worry about ...

MOST 475s shoot .474 just fine.. most shoot .473 just fine .. there's a couple that wont. but NBD

i would NOT shoot it without bedding it -- and recall what I said about the toe

I put in Bell Brass, Barnes XLC's in softs and solids and got RCBS dies when I had mine made in the custom shop (Custom African Express). The dies were $240. then, hate to think what they would be now. The suggestion on the 400 grain gold dot is a good one.
I load my own ammo, have never bought any.
I load mine to 2150 fps.

I've had a 470 Capstick for about 15 years. It started out as a Win M70 Safari Express in 416 Rem, but had a bad barrel. So I replaced the barrel with a Krieger barrel. (#6 contour if memory serves me) I added the stock mods Jeff suggested plus a mercury recoil reducer under the recoil pad.

I ordered a bunch of Bell brass back in the day and still have some in new condition. You can also buy, much cheaper, Hornady 375 basic brass. It resixes very nicely to 470 Cap. and is great for practice shooting without wearing out your headstamped brass. I use a Redding die set (Custom 80590). My hunting load is a 500gr Swift Aframe on top of 83.4 gr of Varget. This load gets me about 2250 fps with the Aframes out of the 24" barrel.

quote:

Originally posted by 257 Roberts:
You guys are making me nervous I got a lemon! I am excited to work with it, but I hope I have a good one. I have done bedding work before, but never an axial wrist bolt. Recommendations for somebody who could do that if needed?

Mine has everything but axial wrist bolt, I have only done those on things like
.505 Gibbs, .500 Mbogo, and a 10.6# .408 CheyTac "Sporter," all in laminate or walnut stocks.
My .470 Capstick weighs 10.75 pounds with heavy 26" barrel.
If it weighed 8# I would put the wrist bolt in it.

Regarding, "slugging the bore", is that really as simple as driving a soft lead ball or fishing sinker down from the muzzle end and thru the barrel? Do you worry about damaging the barrel crown doing that?

Yes, easy as pie and harmless, using a hard, black rubber mallet to start the ball into the muzzle, and a wooden dowel to tap it on through with the same rubber mallet. Clean the barrel first and run one oily patch through the barrel before you start slugging. See pictures below.

Hypothetically, lets say its oversize 0.475, what true African hunting bullets exist in that size? I know there are many in the 0.474 size that were designed for the 470NE.

My .475"-grooved barrel handles .474"-diameter bullets very well.
My .425"-grooved 404 Jeffery handles .423"-diameter bullets very well.
Every .458 WIN I have slugged has a .459" groove diameter, and handle .458"-diameter bullets very well.
First, I have first-hand experience only with one over-sized .470 Capstick, a Big Five.
Since it shot the .475" bullets well but key-holed with .474" bullets, that suggests it could not have been much over .477" for groove diameter.
Custom made and properly sized cast bullets might be required if over .477".
Go ahead and slug it.
Just be careful not to damage the soft lead slug when you push it out of the action. Go slow when you get near the chamber end
and let it fall gently on a cushion of some sort.

Thanks again folks. Learning a lot here!

Slugging a .458 earlier: You want to see a flattened ring of lead forming around the crown as
the hammered side of the ball becomes flush with the muzzle.



Then use a short piece of dowel to tap it down the bore, just like a "ball starter" for a muzzle loader.

Here is the .470 Capstick slugged tonight with a 3-foot-long dowel in the barrel, being tapped with the rubber mallet:





Armed with that knowledge I can say this:



I once hammered a .476"-diameter 1:20 (tin:lead) cast bullet down the barrel of a .458 WIN.
That was rough! Never again!

Do not use anything but a pure lead round ball of swaged lead (like the Hornady balls) that is about 25 to 50 thousandths of an inch bigger than groove.
That will make a nice slug, easy to push through the lightly lubricated barrel, tapping lightly with a wooden dowel, and a rubber mallet.

Here is mine, a little longer and heavier than yours maybe?







Notice the Seyfried Schtick Extension Base (SSEB) on the bridge. It schticks forward over the loading port, like on "A Professional's Rifle."
Bubba Gunwerkes is perfecting one that will schtick out even farther.

Rip ...

I 'slugged' my 6.5x54MS by putting some silver foil half an inch in from the muzzle and pouring moulten lead in on top. I'd had the barrel shortened when I got it, so hopefully the groove was not too much bigger there than farther down, and I was only interested in finding if it was smaller than .267", which it was.

Pushing it all the way through may have made a gentler alternative than forcing a larger ball but I wonder if friction might take more off, leading to a false reading.

Will powder coating stick to gilding metal the way it does to lead? If so, that might be a way to bulk up a bullet if the bore is oversize. I hear it can add at least one thou.

That hornady basic mag case works awesome for the 470 capstick.A friend in Alaska
Has one and it busted the stock twice and every scope he put on it.I.shot it twice and that was enough forever for me.I would put a muzzle break on it if your going to shoot it alot .My.friend likes his but.Has not it 20 times .It's mainly a bragging gun to him .It's an awesome caliber just be ready for lots of recoil with the heavier loads.I can shoot my 416 rem mag 100 times in a day but the 416 rem mag is my.limit on.recoil .Have fun with it !

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
I 'slugged' my 6.5x54MS by putting some silver foil half an inch in from the muzzle and pouring moulten lead in on top. I'd had the barrel shortened when I got it, so hopefully the groove was not too much bigger there than farther down, and I was only interested in finding if it was smaller than .267", which it was.

OK. I do not think lead shrinks much when it cools. I guess that would be close enough for government work.
I do know that pure lead casts a smaller diameter as coming from the mould, compared to the Tin/Antimony/Lead alloys.
As cast bullets of pure lead might be .001" smaller than an as-cast Lyman No.2 alloy bullet of .458-caliber,
after they cool.

Pushing it all the way through may have made a gentler alternative than forcing a larger ball but I wonder if friction might take more off, leading to a false reading.

I believe the soft/pure lead ball is a time proven method.
Light lubrication with a patch of a clean barrel allows you to feel your way along the barrel for any tight or loose spots,
checking for uniformity. I do not think the slug gets smaller as you go!

Will powder coating stick to gilding metal the way it does to lead? If so, that might be a way to bulk up a bullet if the bore is oversize. I hear it can add at least one thou.

Now, that is an excellent idea. I believe that would work to fatten a bullet by 0.001", repeat for another .001"?
Either cast lead or jacketed, or monometal copper or brass, all should work fine.
Get a sizing die to size them with to desired diameter after powder coating.
That just shines them up, good to go.

And I just finished reading the book RIGBY A GRAND TRADITION by Calabi, Helsley and Sanger.
Starting your book now, sambarman338.

Rip ...

How do I post photos on this page? Took some of my gun with my phone today...

Look forward to seeing some photos.

If you get stuck pm me and I will give you my email and post photos for you.

Some good information here. I recently picked up some new A Square brass for my build.

Cheers, Chris

I haven't taken the rifle apart yet to evaluate the bedding.
This rifle is brand new, built in 1993.

jeffeosso, what are thoughts regarding the tang area?

I am not sure I want to tackle adding the wrist bolt myself. This is too nice of a gun to screw up.
Is it required before large amounts [optimistic] of shooting? Any recommendations who could do this improvement?

My assumption based on all shooting recommendations, is not to use a 'Caldwell lead sled' to take out any recoil while shooting from the bench? This will almost certainly break the stock at the wrist?

What are your guys techniques for shooting those small groups with large bore rifles?
I was thinking about shooting it standing with the aid of some cross sticks.

Where does one find the Hornady basic magnum brass for sale?
While I plan to get some Quality Cartridge brass, the Hornady basic seems like a great practice method, both shooting & reloading.

Correct me if I am wrong, but the basic mag brass is a 375H&H case with the body taper but without the necking?
So my thoughts are, one could run this directly into a Capstick FL sizing die with proper lube?

Thanks again. Let me know what you see in the photos I posted.

i can't tell from the pic, but it looks close -- would hate to risk a chip

Is that a crack, or scratch behind the tang.

PM sent.

quote:

Originally posted by Jgrabow6493:
Is that a crack, or scratch behind the tang.

looks like open grain to me

quote:

Originally posted by 257 Roberts:
I haven't taken the rifle apart yet to evaluate the bedding.
This rifle is brand new, built in 1993.

jeffeosso, what are thoughts regarding the tang area?

I am not sure I want to tackle adding the wrist bolt myself. This is too nice of a gun to screw up.
Is it required before large amounts [optimistic] of shooting? Any recommendations who could do this improvement?

My assumption based on all shooting recommendations, is not to use a 'Caldwell lead sled' to take out any recoil while shooting from the bench? This will almost certainly break the stock at the wrist?

What are your guys techniques for shooting those small groups with large bore rifles?
I was thinking about shooting it standing with the aid of some cross sticks.

Where does one find the Hornady basic magnum brass for sale?
While I plan to get some Quality Cartridge brass, the Hornady basic seems like a great practice method, both shooting & reloading.

Correct me if I am wrong, but the basic mag brass is a 375H&H case with the body taper but without the necking?
So my thoughts are, one could run this directly into a Capstick FL sizing die with proper lube?

Thanks again. Let me know what you see in the photos I posted.

It's your call on the wrist pin, but I'm not a machinist and I have found it very easy to add 1/4" all-thread 4" wrist pins. A drill and 6" 1/4" drill bit works fine. Enter from inside the action space of the stock, of course.

On shooting small, big bore groups, everything is mental. Just one shot at a time and as if shooting at a buffalo. The rifle will not hurt so just hold on tight for the ride. A firm forearm hold is essential and adds weight to resist the recoil. It is important to practice so that the rifle does not pop out of one's hands.

Well crap...now what?

Its a hairline, about .75" long.

If it was something smaller, I would fully bed the front and rear tang and wouldn't hesitate to go shoot it.

Is fully bedding the rear tang not sufficient for the big bores?

quote:

Originally posted by 257 Roberts:
Well crap...now what?

Its a hairline, about .75" long.

If it was something smaller, I would fully bed the front and rear tang and wouldn't hesitate to go shoot it.

Is fully bedding the rear tang not sufficient for the big bores?

....wrist pin, bedding, clearance on rear of tang .... keep the toe off the bench .. i'd likely repair and keep

257 Roberts,

You do great photography.

quote:

Originally posted by 257 Roberts:
I haven't taken the rifle apart yet to evaluate the bedding.
This rifle is brand new, built in 1993.

That is a very early 1992-1993 "Pre-Classic" before they started calling the CRF M70's Classics in 1994, if your year is correct.

The only way I know to date them by serial number is to call BACO and ask them to give you the year of make, for those 1992-2006 Connecticut M70's:

800-333-3288


jeffeosso, what are thoughts regarding the tang area?

If the tang has started cracking, looks like you really must do a repair:
Hidden crossbolt or brass pin through and through, AFTER the axial wrist bolt, so as not to interfere with that.
Or get a Bell & Carlson with a full metal bedding block. $272 + $15 S&H, LOP 13.75" over a 1" Decelerator.
You can sand out the barrel channel and glass bed the barrel recoil lug through the metal in the forearm.
Or spend more for a McMillan that can be made to work, and get custom LOP.

I am not sure I want to tackle adding the wrist bolt myself. This is too nice of a gun to screw up.
Is it required before large amounts [optimistic] of shooting? Any recommendations who could do this improvement?

If the tang is cracked, it must have been shot some already.
The wood does not have the best sort of grain flow through the grip.
The axial grip bolt is mandatory, IMHO.
And the rifle weighs about 9 pounds dry/empty?
You are committed to some gunsmithing if you want a shooter.

My assumption based on all shooting recommendations, is not to use a 'Caldwell lead sled' to take out any recoil while shooting from the bench? This will almost certainly break the stock at the wrist?

I use a slip-on pad, and if at the bench I use a PAST Pad too, for 470 Capstick level of recoil. Keeps scope out of eyebrow too.

What are your guys techniques for shooting those small groups with large bore rifles?
I was thinking about shooting it standing with the aid of some cross sticks.

Do a search, several of us, including 416Tanzan have addressed this.

Where does one find the Hornady basic magnum brass for sale?
I used to get it from Midway USA, but have not looked for it for a long time now.Try Graf's too?
While I plan to get some Quality Cartridge brass, the Hornady basic seems like a great practice method, both shooting & reloading.
Yes, it works great.
Correct me if I am wrong, but the basic mag brass is a 375H&H case with the body taper but without the necking?
The Hornady basic cylindrical H&H brass has virtually no taper.
It is .507" above the belt and about .505" at the case mouth and about 2.865" long.
I just now picked up a piece and measured it.Perfect for minimal sizing down to .470 Capstick, easy, just trim to desired length.2.850" max, 2.840" min.
So my thoughts are, one could run this directly into a Capstick FL sizing die with proper lube?
Yes, very easy.

Thanks again. Let me know what you see in the photos I posted.

My old Classic Super Express rifle started as a .375 H&H, Serial No. is G2866xx.
It was made in Dec. 1997, as a .375 H&H, per BACO telephone call,
re-barreled to 470C post Y2K:



The stock you have must be a special custom pattern if from 1993.
The Classic Safari Express pattern with straight comb and negative drop at heel did not come along until 1999 IIRC.
Maybe you have some slight drop at heel? That would make it usable for iron sights, but better with scope.

Rip ...

quote:

The axial grip bolt is mandatory, IMHO.

The crack will be stopped with an axial epoxied all-thread and a relieved tang.

RIP mentions an extra brass, internal cross-pin. Good Advice. Find a place in the action space to epoxy even a little one after the axial wrist-bolt is done.

Note to self:
Before you shoot that Capstick again, do the wrist bolt that both you and gunsmith forgot about, 16 years ago.
This one will be easy, concealed by the grip cap coverup.

Rip ...

Thanks for the tips folks. I apologize for all the questions, I've just never dealt with anything quite this big.

So for the axial wrist bolt, I assume you want the bolt threads to engage the wood correct?
But first, put some epoxy in the bored wrist bolt holt, to take up the extra space and lock the wrist bolt in position.
Do I understand the concept properly? What angle should the wrist bolt follow? Down towards the bottom of the pistol grip or more parallel with the top of the wrist?

Relieving the tang I am a little fuzzy on this. I am used to competition accuracy guns and fully bedding the rear tang, with maybe 1 piece of tape to aid in action removal. Would this be something like putting a few extra pieces of tape around the back of the tang for more clearance? How much clearance does one need here? Proper front recoil lug bedding should hold the action in place fore/aft. My guess is this relief is required for stock and action flexing movement?

As far as the cross bolt/pin. Would this be behind the trigger mechanism and below the axial wrist bolt?
And this is to keep lateral pressure down. "Hold the sides together"

Any photos of any of the above would certainly be appreciated.

I have the factory letter for this rifle. It was completed in July 1993.

It sure shows "0" signs of ever being fired. There is not one mark on this rifle, anywhere.
Even the extractor showed no scratches or wear. I have only cycled the action a handful of times. While I have not used a borescope, the barrel is the cleanest, brightest, most perfect bore I have ever seen, and I've ordered some new custom barrels. If its been fired, its something less than 5 shots and was cleaned perfectly. Regardless what caused the crack, reason not that important, its needs to be addressed before I continue. I fully agree. If for no other reason than piece of mind.

I will get some batteries for my scale tonight, but I am guessing somewhere around 10-12 lbs.
I have a few 10 pounders in the safe, and pretty sure its bigger than that. Guess we'll find out!

Much appreciate the support on this one!!!

I have some pictures of both good and bad.

When building a 500 AccRel Nyati I broke two laminated stocks before learning my lessons and fully reinforcing everything before firing a shot.

Here is the first stock:

Notice the crack right through the middle of the main recoil lug area! Dumb me. On the left of the picture is part of the reinforcement that I used to built a forearm recoil lug area. I thought that the main lug area already had sufficient support from the Boyd's crossbolt. Wrong.

Along with that main lug area crack there was a crack in the middle of the action area and behind the tang:

I decided on a new stock rather than take a risk with what I had. After all, it is a dangerous game rifle and I expect MOA to shoot an eyeball if necessary.

So I got a new stock and bedded the main lug area.

You can see the main lug area and the foundation for what would be the forearm recoil area
But I shot it before finishing the forearm recoil area:

Whoops.

Here is a picture of the tang area where an axial wrist all-thread was inserted:


Finally, a third stock was able to succeed with the 500 AccRel.
Here is what a forearm recoil area looks like:


So what did I learn for doing things right?

Two years ago I bedded a 338 Win Mag.

A 1/4" all-thread was bedded in the main recoil area.
The extra holes were to allow the epoxy to grab in many places.

It worked out well, although I eventually had to scrape out a little area near the screw hole where an uneven spot has seeped under some tape.


The tang area on the Ruger was easy:


The gun now shoots tight little groups and I have no qualms about the strength of the stock. Even though it is only a 338, any stock can crack and an ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure.

As mentioned, find an area for a little all-thread near the trigger or tang area, too.
And when bedding, it is fine to do things in multiple stages.
The important thing is to produce a bedding that has ZERO binding on the action. The action should clamp down without any movement of the free-floated barrel. When bedding, the barrel should have some tape around the forearm tip and the action should not be pressured.

Theoretically, the first two stocks of the 500 could have been repaired and probably would have held up. But the 500 is very powerful and a hunter does not need any lingering doubts when shooting Mr. Mbogo. Thirty years ago a friend of mine broke a Brno stock (=CZ) into at least three pieces. He was going to junk it but I convinced him to let me try a fix. Judiciously epoxying everything in place resurrected that 30-06. It became a great little shooter. so I wouldn't worry at all about the little crack behind the tang on your 470. But I would carefully reinforce everything that you can and prepare about 1/32" to 1/16" space around the back of the tang.

PS: As mentioned I am not a tool person or a gunsmith. Everything that I do is "kitchen table" shopwork. I'm just an amateur who likes to hunt with practical, accurate rifles.

i sent you a link in my first post to the capstick brass ...

your axial should be 1/8" smaller than hole .. then well epoxied in .. it CAN be done that the tang rest on the top of the bolt .. we are making it seem way harder than it is ... use a white grease pen to mark a line through the center of the grip cap to the top of the action.. you COULD drill all the way through, or not .. i don't, but few would judge either way..

DO NOT just turn a bolt into the wood .. that is, the stock isn't just a "nut"

it WILL have a stuck-tion issue .. i fill the hole with epoxy and then coat the bolt .. then work it in ... measure thrice, cut once

257 Roberts,

So your barrel is about same contour as mine, if your rifle is over 10 pounds, but 24" instead of 26"?
What is the muzzle diameter at 24?

That is great advice from 416Tanzan and jeffeosso.
All I can add is a picture of a wrist pin done prophylactically on a Ruger No.1 "450 S. Rigby" aka
.450 NE, in a laminated stock which I trust less than properly grained walnut.





Rusty McGee did the brass pins, two of them, one above and one below the stock bolt hole running through the wrist.
They don't do much, but they don't hurt anything.
Must be a flintlock builder's trick.

I do stuff like 416Tanzan does, but on the garage workbench or backyard picnic table rather than on the kitchen table.

Slapping a B&C Medalist with full bedding block on it would be quicker and easier, and I trust those topmost.



Above is a B&C stock for a CZ but it shows how barrel channel can be enlarged, that is a No.6 with a short knoxform fitted into a No.4 channel.
I have one on order for a long action Winchester M70.
Black with red webbing this time.

Rip ...