I’ve read a bunch of different recommendations on relieving the tang on a M70. What’s the consensus from the experts on relieving the tang when pillar and glass bedding the entire action on a 416 Rem? It seems to make some sense that having the tang bedded tight could provide more stability to the entire action along with the recoil lug. But when the stock flexes under recoil, maybe that’s where a split could show up?

Is it best to relieve the vertical surface circled in the picture below after bedding or leave it tight?

The only vertical surface that should have contact is the back of the recoil lug and only the back of the lug, enough said.
BB

Yes, relieve that surface. .030"will do.
Also have some room around your action screws, between them and the pillar.

I usually put 2 layers of tape over the back of a tang prior to bedding - allows for built-in clearance - i find that anything touching the back of the action can lead to chips if the rifle isn't installed correctly

the lug needs light relief a piece of electrical tape, is 20 thousands and works.

quote:

Originally posted by bigbull:
The only vertical surface that should have contact is the back of the recoil lug and only the back of the lug, enough said.
BB

Enough said? you mean like the "Final word" the "Last Revelation" "Parting of the clouds" ????

Well I for one would love to hear Duane's take on this. Duane, we're waiting and interested.

Duane's a legend and I really would be interested in his take. Frankly, I'll take it as Gospel.

Hmmm... wasn't my intention to develop a "lesson plan", but ....A properly hand inletted gunstock will utilize that careful ionletting to spread recoil forces over the largst area practical.

The pre 64 M-70: the action cut behind the magazine well is a perfect place to help absorb recoil...wth a cross bolt, theis area can and should be inletted tighly, On th POST 64, that cut is an even better area for tight inleting.

Of course, the recoil lug should be inletted while at the same time compressing the wood at the rear

Bottopm metal ..same thing,,,tightly inletted and the fore and aft end of the magaine itself should be inletted snugly

And speaking of th reccoil lug, one should take a scrape in the middle to allow rcoil to transfer to the edges, beause from there on back..totally supported by the wood clear length of the action.

That rounded point the rear of a M70 : this should not quite touch, (pretty thin here), but no need for a huge gap either.

Guard screws for a sporter shold be pretty snug...you want contact all along the action to he wood .

These ideas are not new...the same is discussed in books from Clyde Baker, Dae Wesbook. etc .

I'll add here that I do not use glass in ANY caliber. Built many 416's, 458's and 500's that have survived at least 200 rounds that I know of.

Admittedly, I've had one client, a Tanzania PH. that had two failures on his "custom stocked" 460 Weatherby...and just insisted on glass bedding...What the hell!

Keep in mind that I'm talking about sporters....The target/bench rest guy will most likely do things a bit differently

Thanks Duane for the tutorial.

It's not what I knew that was my undoing, it's what I knew that was not so...