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CZ550 preparation - recomendations? Login/Join
 
Teat Hound
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OK, for you CZ 550 owners out there:

I'm now the proud owner of a new hog-back CZ550 in .375. I plan on having the stock pinned and bedded (maybe even pillar bedding for easy take-down) and will most likely have the safety changed to one similar to a Win 70. Besides this, what else would you recommend as essential? I've read that the magazine spring should be changed too. Anything else?

Bears are for sure in the near future, and possibly a cape buffalo in 2007.

Also, has anyone tried the CZ factory smiths for any bedding jobs? Just wondering as I've been chatting with them about the work they'll do.

Thanks,


-eric

" . . . a gun is better worn and with bloom off---So is a saddle---People too by God." -EH
 
Posts: 952 | Location: Bakersfield, California | Registered: 03 June 2005Reply With Quote
GarBy
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A while back there were some issues with the firing pin "clip" vs a nut. Don't remember specifics, except that I looked at my CZ American in 9.3 and had the clip. Sent the firing pin assembly to CZ and they changed it for free. It worked great before and has continued to work great. Might do a search to see if that is applicable.
I also took some spar varnish to the inside of the stock, 2 light coats, to make it less suseptable to moisture.

Gary B.
 
Posts: 1970 | Location: NE Georgia, USA | Registered: 21 March 2002Reply With Quote
boom stick
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just slick up the action and ditch the oooogly hogback...it is a bad design for recoil. otherwise why not the 416 rigby???


577 BME 3"500 KILL ALL 358 GREMLIN 404-375

*we band of 45-70ers* (Founder)
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Posts: 27616 | Location: Where tech companies are trying to control you and brainwash you. | Registered: 29 April 2005Reply With Quote
PC
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I have a hogsback in .375 H&H, 9.3x62 and .458 lott I like it for me it works well with recoil. Just get your .375 bedded and it will be fine.
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
jjs
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I have the American stocked version in 375H&H. I had a gunsmith add a cross-bolt, bed the rifle, adjust the trigger, and smooth the action...at a minimum I would have it bed then go shoot it and see what you may with to do from there...as far as the feeding and functioning of the rifle...

I scoped mine with a Leupold VX111 1.5x5 with Talley detachable rings..it really likes the 270 grain Barnes TSX.
 
Posts: 1999 | Location: Memphis, TN | Registered: 23 April 2004Reply With Quote
schromf
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quote:
just slick up the action


I did that on my 6.5x55. I have put a fair amount of effort into it and I am not sure I am entirely satisfied yet. I am going to pull it out of the stock and get serious with this next. I am not convinced at this point I am going to get it where I want it without some mechanical help though. The simple stuff has been done, yes it helped, my thoughts are the raceway on the tang is the problem area. I am going to stone and polish the rails first, if that doesn't slick it up, its the tang area for sure.

Its a bit premature to condemn, but mine is by no means what I would call a slick action.
 
Posts: 1486 | Location: Idaho | Registered: 28 May 2004Reply With Quote
GaryVA
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quote:
Originally posted by Teat Hound:
OK, for you CZ 550 owners out there:

I'm now the proud owner of a new hog-back CZ550 in .375. I plan on having the stock pinned and bedded (maybe even pillar bedding for easy take-down)....

- I installed pillars, a crossbolt and bedded the rifle from tang to the barrel lug (retaining the "F" block). Though; I'm of the opinion on a 375H&H European "Lux" version you could eliminate the "F" block and barrel lug, standard bed the rifle using the existing steel escrusions(spl??), leave a slight gap at the rear of the tang and add no additonal crossbolt. This would save some weight and should work well as the 375H&H has little recoil.
_______________________________________________

....and will most likely have the safety changed to one similar to a Win 70.

- I'm a fan of the two position CZ safety as is. It is simple, fast, positive, locks the bolt and is quiet.
_______________________________________________

....Besides this, what else would you recommend as essential? I've read that the magazine spring should be changed too. Anything else?

- Most magazine related feeding issues can be resolved by smoothing out the rear joint of the box and smoothing out the edges of the follower. Most replacement springs I've seen used are for long action(not magnum action) boxes and will walk under the magnum length follower adding potential other problems.

- I'd make sure you don't have the firing pin "clip" version, I'd make sure your trigger adjustment screws/nuts(once adjusted) are secured with blue locktite or fingernail polish, and I'd keep an eye on your magnum sear spring as I think this is a week link that will cause problems if it breaks and/or looses tension(I've replaced mine twice do to lost tension).

- I cut mine to 22", added a protected crown, and replaced the factory front sight with an NECG sight.

- Also, your stock is probably completely sealed w/ detecryl(spl??) inside and out(including under the recoil pad). This stuff is tuff and should require no additional sealing.
_______________________________________________




Good Luck,
Gary
 
Posts: 1190 | Registered: 11 April 2004Reply With Quote
Head Trauma
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All good suggestions. Athough not essential, I really did not like the configuration of the factory bolt handle on my CZ 416 Rigby. I found a M70 bolt body cheap and had it welded on in place of the factory bolt handle. Looks, functions and feels sooooo much better. Enjoy your new rifle, resistance is futile, you will be assimilated.
 
Posts: 1051 | Registered: 02 November 2003Reply With Quote
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