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| One of Us |
I've decided that I "need" a takedown rifle. I'd like something that will work for deer and black bear and will accept a scope. While I would very much enjoy an HS-Precision PTD, the cost is outside what I am currently comfortable with. I've looked at Dakota and Jarrett as well. Are there any somewhat more economical options out there that are still decent guns? I don't need or want anything overly fancy but I would like a solid and dependable firearm. | ||
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One of Us |
I’ve had similar considerations over the years. For a quality, repeatable, reliable take down system it gets pricey. My answer to the situation is to carry a proper fitting screwdriver and remove the barreled action from the stock. Sometimes the best solution to a problem is the simplest one. All We Know Is All We Are | |||
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| One of Us |
Blaser r8 but they are not cheap. Mike | |||
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Browning Lever Action Rifle Take down model. | |||
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Another low cost option is a T/C Contender carbine. Send a 30 caliber carbine barrel to Mike Bellm and have him rechamber to 308 Bellm (444 Marlin necked to 30 caliber). You end up with a single shot 5 1/2 pound rifle with 300 Savage performance. I took it to New Zealand on a Tahr hunt. Great mountain rifle. If you want a repeater take down get a T/C Dimension. Regarding unscrewing a bolt action and removing the stock make sure you put a witness mark on the floor plate aligned with the slot in the action screw or use a torque wrench. A compact torque wrench for bicycles in the proper torque range is available for a compact tool kit. My rifle loosened bouncing around in the rifle rack after a couple of days. Cost me a very long day of chasing a Zebra because of a loose screw. | |||
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The most rigid setup is the H&H type where they remove the barreled receiver from the stock, using a QD front guard screw and I think the tang is just hooked in. Secondly the H&H type that just has a single side mounted set screw is the easiest to make. Hardest to make and most expensive is the Rigby type that has the sliding lock on the underside of the forend and has interrupted threads. Issue is always with a scope. Rigidity, and unscrewing a fully threaded barrel. Having built a couple. | |||
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Thanks. This might be a winner for me. It looks like they are no longer being manufactured but a few are available. | |||
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According to the Browning website - The '81 Stainless (straight grip) is still available in the takedown. After reading the posts from Mr Detorre on his BLR takedown in .30-06...I looked for almost a year for one. Went to the shooting range around 5 weeks ago and the only other person at the range was shooting his takedown BLR (Blued/pistol grip) in .30/06. I asked him about the rifle and he said he just got it on trade and wasn't sure if he would keep it. 30 minutes later we had a trade worked out and I had it in my gun case  It fits perfect in the safe next to my stainless BLR in .22-250 and my Blued BLR in .308 (which took a 9pt this year at 198 yards)"Let me start off with two words: Made in America" | |||
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Have you put a scope on yours? If so, what did you go with and any issues as far as taking it down? | |||
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I put a Leupold 4.5-14x50 VXL on mine with medium height rings. I took the gun apart a few times on purpose at the range and I dont think point of impact changed at all when the gun is split (takedown). They are awesome rifles. LGS has one in .325wsm but are wanting $950 for it used. Kind of steep for a near obsolete caliber in a gun that Buds sold for $899 originally. When they mark it down to where it needs to be priced I may end up with it as well. I need to quit looking around gun stores   "Let me start off with two words: Made in America" | |||
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Might consider a Traditions Outfitter G2. http://forums.accuratereloadin...9421043/m/6661054442 https://www.traditionsfirearms...ategory/outfitter-g2 | |||
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Savage 99 TD in 300 Savage? DRSS(We Band of Bubba's Div.) N.R.A (Life) T.S.R.A (Life) D.S.C. | |||
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Both mine and my son's BLR takedowns are sub 3/4 moa shooters. Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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I have one of these with a tang marble sight. nice shooter only shot factory out of it.
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I did some looking around but didn't find the recipe..what load are you using in yours? iirc it was a 165 or 168 tsx? "Let me start off with two words: Made in America" | |||
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A well bedded bolt action rifle and the appropriate screw driver / allen key to remove the action screws. Better is a torque wrench so you redo to same torque. If you can, leave scope attached. With any take down Check the zero after reasssembling - do it a few times to see how repeatable it actually is. | |||
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A proper "take down" piece must be quickly broken down into two pieces, without the use of tools, in the field, and with no loose parts that can be lost. Anything else is in another category, as in, "can be disassembled with tools and you end up with parts you might lose"; of course with tools you can take apart anything. I thought the OP was looking for a bolt action; sure there are plenty of take downs in lever actions, and don't forget the Remington 141 and 81s are take down. | |||
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As DPCD said, there are several choices of take down leverguns. From the modern Miroku Winchester/Browning lines alone: Model 92 Model 1886 Model 1894 Model 1895 Plus of course the Browning BLR Takedown in many modern calibers Many caliber choices and sight choices. For instance: One of my buddies = 1886 45-70 TD Deluxe with Leupold QD base forward of action. Another buddie = 1895 .405 with base mounted forward of action. I have TD in 1895 .405 and 1886 45-90 and peep sights on both. Have fun shopping. NRA Life Benefactor Member, DRSS, DWWC, Whittington Center,Android Reloading Ballistics App at http://www.xplat.net/ | |||
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i'm no expert but in MY opinon i see no point in this when better options abound. | |||
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Except for the budget concerns, I have two and swear by them both of Sauer 203 Takedowns--these are simply things of beauty, but they are budget busters. | |||
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Europe has what you seek. Many makers and models to choose from. I have a Verney-Carron Impact Plus Affut bolt action, in the take down version. Couldn't be happier. It is about half the price of a Blaser R8, and only a little more than a typical USA rifle like a Rem 700 or Winchester M70. Good walnut, polished steel, repeatable accuracy, and superb trigger. I have used it at home and on Safari. Mine is chambered in 9.3x62, but they also offer more common standard chambering. I don't know if they are easily available in the USA, but are in Canada. | |||
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I know that Bergara BA13 take down rifles shoot way better than they should for their price point. Was with some Austrian hunters - all using k95s etc - but one has now bought at Bergara and shoots just as well. These are priced at c£500 in the UK. https://www.bergara.online/en/rifles/ba13-series/ | |||
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They aren't that I have seen. | |||
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I know a outfitter who has a REm 721 and a .308 barrel, a 7-08 barrel and a 358 barrel as I remember but not sure...He just screws the one he want in by hand as snub as he can to a mark on each barrel, I assume he head spaced them all, but you never know with guides, most have a bit too much cowboy in them to get into details....He has been shooting that gun for years...I guess as long as you don't let the barrel get loose your good to go. I know a barrel doesn't have to be wrench tight to shoot. Just curious of folks opinnion..  Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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Interesting, Id like to have one in a 9.3x62, but then Id probably go with a ruger no.1S custom barrel.. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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Ray: I have a T/C Dimension rifle with a 300 Win Mag barrel and a 7mm Rem Mag barrel rebored and chambered for 416 Ruger. With the 300 Mag barrel tightened using the factory supplied torque wrench the barrel never loosens. With the 416 Ruger tightened using the same wrench after a few rounds the barrel unwinds. Must have something to do with the 400 grain bullet slamming into the rifling. I am going to install a set screw to keep it tight. | |||
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I've been told, and upon examination, i agree, that the arisaka paratrooper takedown is literally to best takedown design, for accuracy. I am assuming you want a boltgun, rather than the wonderful BLR. have a smith setup the barrel for hand tight, with a witness mark, set to the face of the action, and a wingnut with recess cut into the thread to lock it in. put a spare nut under the recoil pad .. it's not super elegant, but it also shouldn't cost you a jillion -- have a short forearm, .. remove the wingnut, unscrew the barrel, done.. interrupted thread with forearm will cost a jillion .. middle ground, use the wingnut, but have the forearm mounted to the barrel .. everything else will be cubic dollars opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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Yea but it's a Blaser. I think the OP is interested in a real rifle, not a gimmick. | |||
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I like my gimmick - my 8mm Mauser barrel shot between .121 and .24 with ppu $15 match ammo. Can switch to a 375 H&H that shoots .4 Switch to a 30/06 that shoots .3 Switch around numerous scopes and everything hold perfect All I need is barrels, a different bolt head to shoot 375h&h and a 5mm Allen wrench. Only thing I like less about the blaser is the Allen wrench. I got a longer Klein wrench for $5 at home depot online. Mike | |||
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I truly appreciate all the advice and leads. I've explored them all and have decided that the BLR will be a great rifle for me. I'll be purchasing one at some point in the near future. Thanks again. | |||
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BobM, In order to make a barrel work with hand tightening one must make the last couple of turns on the threads more snug than the first few threads..I have watched this process on a couple of occasions, in other words tapered...and apparantly it works...that would explain your two rifles as most factory barrels are the same from the first thread to the face...but a small flat to accept a wrench wouldn't be a bad Idea I don't think...and it seems to me the twist would have some degree of snugging or unsnugging the barrel??? The only one I built had special action wrench that went into the lugs, and I tapped it with a hammer or whatever to matching marks on action and barrel..It worked great but you had to take the action out of the stock to switch barrels..I hunted with it in Africa once, and of course I kept having the wrong barrel in place at the wrong time..switch barrels are "cute" and that's about it, they have no field purpose IMO...two guns are the way to go..They do serve the gunmakers skill, and are great for display.. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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Once again; we need to make sure of the definitions and act accordingly. If it requires any tools, and can't be quickly take down and put together in the field, then it is Not a Takedown. It is a switch barrel. Which essentially makes any rifle a switch barrel if you use a vise and any type of wrench. Big difference. | |||
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| one of us |
Long ago in I think "Surplus Rifle" magazine there was an article on a switch action rifle. It consisted of two Mauser barreled actions in different calibers and one stock. Each barreled action had it's own scope. The actions were of the same manufacturer say CZ or 1908 Brazilian as an example. Barrels were of identical contour. The owner had a case made that held the stock and barreled actions w/scopes separate for travel. The switch was accomplished by removing the two action screws and exchanging barreled actions. Technically not a take-down, but not too much more trouble. Certainly cheaper! | |||
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Not the cheapest platform in the world, but the Sauer 202 Hatari is a very nice set up. Mine includes barrels for 300 Win Mag, 375 H&H, and 458 Lott. Probably the most accurate rifle I own, and no tools required to take down or change barrels. Cheers. Chip. | |||
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dpcd,I have communicated with you in the past about converting to a switch bbl by screwing bbl on handtight, headspacing and using a set screw to hold the bbl in place. I am thinking of infrequent changes. Probably ought to get it done as neither I nor you are getting any younger. Is Atkinson correct in his assessment that the last few threads must be tapered and a tighter fit? | |||
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| Moderator |
http://forums.accuratereloadin...1078981/m/3151067552 opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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Does the first shot from the 202 after assembly match the shots that follow? Do you take any special steps to minimize first shot flyers? I have read several online reviews commenting on first shots after assembly being several inches outside following groups at 100 yards. | |||
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Bob, yes, that is the was H&H made some; the entire barreled receiver was removed. The tang was not screwed in; it hooked in, and the front guard screw was easily removed. I have made them with two set screws in the receiver ring; not really a take down but not expensive either. | |||
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| One of Us |
Sauer 202's shoot well. Many take off barreled rifles do require a firm tap on the butt - a tap on the floor, just to make sure everything is seated properly. i have played with the Mauser M03 and this was the case. The Blaser system less so as the scope is mounted directly on the barrel, rather than on the action. | |||
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I have 2 bolt action rifles that I've experimented with just pulling the 2 action screws and then remove action from stock then reasembling them and shoot. So far they are not showing any point of impact change and I think I will buy a takedown size case for them so I can use this method for travel. By the way I don't know who left dpcd in charge to determine what a "takedown rifle" is or isn't. In my eyes if I separate a rifle into 2 parts and it is easily reassembled it works as a takedown for me. | |||
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