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One of Us |
Hi all Just wondered if anyone out there has one of these triggers fitted to their rifle? I was thinking of getting one for my MkV but are they worth the money? Do they offer an improvement over the factory unit? Are there any other makes available that I should consider (that is for a MkV)? Thanks in advance | ||
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One of Us |
I put one on a custom 7mm mag I built from a Wby MkV receiver-mainly because it was cheaper than repairing the factory trigger. The Jard model came with two springs for two different pull weight ranges. IMO, it's a really nice trigger for the money (and the only one available of the MkV, I believe) but not so much better than the factory one as to be considered much of an upgrade. Praise be to the Lord, my rock, who trains my hands for war, my fingers for battle. | |||
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One of Us |
I have built a couple of rifles for customers and used Jard triggers. I would probably agree that they are not much of an up grade on a MKV, but on other rifles I think they are. I have had them rival a Jewell on a 700 for hunting. I built a 6.5-06 on a Sako AIII and used a Jard. The customer wanted a 1000 yard rifle he could hunt with. The Jard worked for him. He had never shot over 200 yards on a range, until he shot at our range, max 725 yards. He now has a 1000 yard range at his home. He got bit bad! I like the Jard for the money. Nothing beats a Jewell........Tom SCI lifer NRA Patron DRSS DSC | |||
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One of Us |
Timney makes triggers for the Mk V action. Ken.... "The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant, but that they know so much that isn't so. " - Ronald Reagan | |||
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One of Us |
Thanks fellas That's great. It looks like the Jardinc will work. I wonder if the Timney is as good? They are pretty similar in price so I suppose I will go with the Jard unless someone says otherwise. Cheers | |||
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one of us |
I've both. Prefer the Timney. DRSS NRA Life Member VDD-GNA | |||
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<Mike McGuire> |
If you are going to spend money then I would take the rifle to a gunsmith and get a new trigger return spring for the standard trigger. Once you have that you can adjust for weight and sear engagement and without taking the rifle apart. | ||
One of Us |
Thanks for the suggestion Mike. Taking it to my smith was the other option I was considering. The pull weight is fine its just that perhaps 30% of the time there is some slight creep. I am not fussy about triggers personally but this is just niggling me slightly as I would prefer a clean break 100% of the time. Thanks | |||
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<Mike McGuire> |
If the weight is fine then you adjust the sear engagement (creep). If you remove the bolt of the rifle and look into the action above where the trigger is then you will see two screws that are recessed. The larger one holds the trigger to the action and the smaller one adjusts the sear engagement. Screwing it in reduces the enagagement. Screw in too far and the rifle won't cock. You adjust it so the bolt can be slammed and still cock. With scope left on you need a small Allen key that is bent. Or if take it to a gunsmith he can do it in a couple of minutes. If you do it yourself then after you have the right adjustment put something like nail polish down the hole. Although if they do vibrate loose the screw moves up and the sear engagement increases. | ||
One of Us |
Mike Great stuff. I will have a look tommorrow and possibly look if I think it wise, (within my limited capability of DIY) to have a go myself. Think now I have made my mind up from the advice gained here and from yourself to go down the route of honing the sear before the replacement option. Thanks Jon | |||
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