Hello, everyone out there. I'm new to the group, but an old soul. I haven't reloaded this century, did back in high school, but am finally building my first home. (Sold the one we've lived in for a decade with 1 bathroom and 5 kids plus me and the misses).
I have only ever reloaded shotgun shells, and on a friend's bench. My new home will have a reloading room amongst other things ( a garage for my 68 GTO, 3.5 bathrooms, and other rooms I could care less about).
I'd love to get heavily into reloading, and as I make 3 day a week visits to the range, have been saving lots of brass for some time. (I've got a 5gal bucket of mostly barnes 300wm brass alone.)
I have a good deal worked up to buy a hornady lock n load progressive press and am a mechanic by trade so I'm not afraid of the multiple moving components and taking some quality time with my digital calipers. My question: those of you with loads of experience, trial and error, etc if you had only that press and a really good set of calipers but no dies, trimmers, blocks, books, and an empty room, how would YOU fill the voids?
Sorry about the long intro, looking forward to getting to know you and appreciate your wisdom.

Start with a single stage press and dies for one cartridge that you shoot a lot.

Get some hand prep tools for trimming and chamfering.

Get a good balance scale.

Get at least 3 good manuals.

Get a chronograph.

Once you can make ammo that shoots as well as factory, you can start experimenting with new items that speed things up...like case cleaners, oal gauges, stuff to anneal with, and start working with more than one cartridge (more die sets).

At that point you can start to worry about a progressive press.

Somewhere after that you will need another room....

WELCOME They offer complete start up kit. follow the link. most like RCBS I would still op for the lyman tmag more options for die set up. The rcbs turrent press I had was weak and the turrent wasn't cast square
https://www.midsouthshooterssu...p+To+%2450+Cash+Back

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RCBS-...c:g:6AIAAOSw2gxY3BKN

My advice is to listen to crbutler.

quote:

Originally posted by BNagel:
My advice is to listen to crbutler.

+2

crbutler has it nailed. This becomes an incurable disease. A single stage press is a wonderful thing to start with. The only thing I would waver on is getting a good turret press. You might not ever buy another. I love my Redding T7.

True; I see too many guys buy a progressive press when starting reloading (and shotgun is nothing like rifle reloading) and get frustrated because they aren't trouble free. I always tell them to start with a Lee Loader and learn the basics. For you, definitely start with a single stage press of any make and go from there. You can always work up to a progressive later, but it is not needed. The Hornady is the best though.
No books? That is first; get a set of them; Hornady is my fav, and I have many of them dating back to the 60s. Read them. Be careful of internet forum advice; this one seems to have the fewest nut cases.

If I had to do it all over again the first thing I would purchase is a Forster Co Ax press. I have 52 years of reloading under my belt and never seen the need for a progressive press and rarely a day goes by I don't shoot.

You have reloaded before but want to get back into it. My advise is to listen to Snowwolfe and get the best equipment you can afford to get started. Why buy a Sportster when you know you will end up with a Big Twin later on. (motorcycle talk) If you want to get into it in a big way, don't buy just to get started. Research the different presses and get a good one to start. Get a good scale that will last and take care of it and the same goes for the dies. There are many different types of reloading equipment out there. Get the best and enjoy putting together your ammunition.
There is a lot of equipment that the big box stores don't sell. Do your research. Go to the reloading pages and search reloading rooms and take a look at what some guys have set up already. Might give you some ideas.
JMHO

Let me add my endorsement to crbutler. I started loading in 1958 and am still hard at it with over 100 sets of dies in different calibers, virtually all of which I have used.

My addition advice would be to shop eBay first for reloading tools. There are some amazing values to be had, and single stage loading presses don't as a rule wear out. Nor do RCBS dies. My first press was an RCBS A2, which I still use when I need the extra power, but the other RCBS presses are nearly as powerful.

The nice thing about a single stage press is that it allows you to check the case at every stage of the proceeding. I still check the primer pocket after resizing, check the primer after priming, visually check the powder level after charging the case with powder and inspect the completed round for concentricity after completing the bullet seating process.

A progressive press will not allow you to do this. I have one or two, but I use them only for pistol calibers.

CRButler pretty much nailed it. I don't have a chronograph and might be missing a bunch with that void. I like RCBS and recommend their Rockchucker press. There is enough that can go wrong doing it single stage, so why increase the chances of error going progressive? It looked like cave man equipment when I got my Belding & Mull powder measure back in the 60's and you can find them on EBAY. Slower than others but pretty much foolproof and very accurate.

Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading. Before you buy any equipment I'd suggest you get a copy of The ABCs of Reloading. I will tell you how to reload, give good info on components, and will show what equipment is used and what will fit your reloading style. Many don't recommend a progressive press to learn reloading as too many things are going on with each pull of the lever. A single stage is easier to learn how to reload, unlike a progressive press on which you'll learn to operate an ammo machine. And a single stage still has many uses if the owner chooses to move on to a turret or progressive.

Be aware that 99% of the replies to a "what should I use?" question will result in answers about what the poster uses, and no comparisons or tests, just opinion. Not necessarily a bad thing, but understand, the answers are opinions.

Read, research, and read some more. There are many texts available for equipment/reloading and one good source is vendor's catalogs.

I will say that even with a progressive press a single stage press is a near necessity to make the progressive run properly.

I have 4 semi-progressives and 1 full on progressive where you just dump stuff into hoppers and pull the handle.

I still spend hours at the single stage doing brass prep.

I've been reloading for 55 years now. I read everything I could get my hands on way back when about reloading.
I built a 35x20 foot shop dedicated to reloading.
Shotshells in one corner,bullets casting/coating in another corner and 1/2 just for metallic reloading.
You want a sturdy work bench. And I mean sturdy. My bench top is is over 2" thick of solid wood.
No case even the really large ones even cause the bench to creak when full length resizing.
You'd be amazed how tiring a flimsy bench is one your arms as you fight with the press lever and the bench flexes. You do not want your powder scale to move or be shaken as you size a case. Bad things can happen.
Make the bench as long as you can get away with. 10-12 feet long is not outrageous.
My bench legs are 4x4's spaced 36" apart.
If you can move your bench with one arm it is way too light.
You'll need lots of storage above and below your bench. Bullets,powder,brass and off to the side primers.
Make sure it is very well light.
You'll need at least 4- 120 volt outlets. You'd be surprised what you will need to be powered over the years.
Make sure the bench top is at a height for YOU to comfortably stand/sit/work on.
Put a small lip around the bench,or at least on three sides to stop small parts,primers,cases, Cricket tool,etc from rolling off onto the floor.
Rubber "fatigue mats" really make your hours standing easy to handle.
Today a radio or computer is always nice to keep you from getting bored and or store your loading data or check here for your favorite loads.
As for presses. There are many,many nice ones. I have been using the Bonanza CO-AX press for 45 years now. Nothing better in a single stage press as the dies "float" in the holder making it impossible to shave a casing. The bullets always self align dead center in the case.
I shoot only long range and run a club that that is it purpose.
You will be able to tailor a load for your rifles that you cannot buy off of the shelves.
That's half the fun or reloading.
I can send you photos of what I built.
Good luck! Have fun!

You've been getting a lot of good advice.
Starting with the manuals; make one of them Richard Lee's second edition. He has taken data from many of the other manuals.
I've used many powder dispensers, and worn out some. Ball powder on metal baring surface promotes a lot of ware. For at least the last 15 yrs. I successfully used the El cheapo Lee tapered plastic drum. Should you go with the Lee, it will last you a long time. If it should ware out or get damaged over the years , spend $20.00 and get another one.
Whatever press you get make sure it's strong and facilitates priming .Mine was a lucky choice originally. It was the Hollywood Senior and it's still working after 60 yrs. It's picked up a little deflection in the last decade or so but still trucks on. There are many good presses now days that are as strong or maybe stronger. A strong C or H press capable of handling Magnum length cases is a good bet.
Personally at this point if I were you , I would not get a Chronograph , Focus on becoming an Accurate Reloader. You can go for the frosting after the cake is baked.
Being a mech.you can always have fun making your own case holding loading blocks.

Intelligent learning And strong concentration is the name of this game.
roger

Thanks everyone. You guys rock. Lots of good info and advice. I've started building my table (almost 12' long, 4x4 steel channel, pipe across the front to rest my foot on, etc.) after work, so glad I'm not as crazy as my wife looked at me when I started stitch welding it up.
Rapidrod- I'd love to see some pictures of your set up, and anyone who would be willing to share for that matter. I may still pick up the Hornady lnl progressive and save a future spot on the table as I think the deal is good enough to not pass up (trading an old intake manifold and valve covers and 50$ for it- still in box!) and get a rockchucker as well. Any particular loves of brand or style of case trimmer everyone prefers? BTW I'm amazed by the quick response and friendly atmosphere here. I genuinely am. Thanks to all again.

quote:

Originally posted by crbutler:
Start with a single stage press and dies for one cartridge that you shoot a lot.

Get some hand prep tools for trimming and chamfering.

Get a good balance scale.

Get at least 3 good manuals.

Get a chronograph.

Once you can make ammo that shoots as well as factory, you can start experimenting with new items that speed things up...like case cleaners, oal gauges, stuff to anneal with, and start working with more than one cartridge (more die sets).

At that point you can start to worry about a progressive press.

Somewhere after that you will need another room....

Absolutely spot on, only thing I might add is to find an experienced someone that might mentor you for a short while.

I would pass on the balance scale and go right to a digital. Turn it on a few hours before you use it to warm it up. I double check mine after calibration with a 240.0 and 100.0 bullet.

Go with the list from CTButler, but add a powder measure and if it were me the chrono can come later.
RCBS kit gets it all in one box for a start depending on ones budget. Press, dies, case lube and powder scale are the minimum, one can go from there to go "Whole Hog" if the budget allows

Since I used to shoot a lot more revolver, I broke down and got a progressive.
Sometimes I use the progressive to size, prime and flare a bunch of brass and finish loading on the single stage over time. Speeds up loading for testing if the progressive takes on those steps.

Single stage press will do what many people need quite well.

Some look at reloading as a chore, I look at reloading as an extension of the shooting sport and making the best ammo I can for each gun. Some guns seem to shoot mast all loads OK, or well and others have a limited diet that will provide the most precision on target

Reloading will give you a chance to see the changes on the target from some pretty subtle changes in the loaded round.

All good advice, wish I bought a Co-Ax as my first press

quote:

Originally posted by Snowwolfe:
If I had to do it all over again the first thing I would purchase is a Forster Co Ax press. I have 52 years of reloading under my belt and never seen the need for a progressive press and rarely a day goes by I don't shoot.

I have two Forster Trimmers . One I use for length trimming and one is set up for neck turning.It's not necessary to have two but I inherited one a long time ago ;so why not. I've been into wildcating most of my reloading life and the two really came in handy set up the way they are. roger

I would start with ONLY the Lyman manual for at leat 1 year & learn your reloading basics

Couple things I disagree with Roger on.
Lee powder measures are junk shit that leak powder all over the place. I've had half dozen of 'em and everyone leaked. Nearly burned my house down because of it.

I use RCBS Uniflows for rifle and the Lil Dandy for small stuff. Mighty costly if you buy all the drums. But, with a lathe and drill press you can make your own easy.

Two things for sure; Get a small drill press. Then get the Lee case trimmers. Chuck the cutter in the press and weld up a 1/2"sq x 4" long for a handle. Tack the shell holder base on one end. That's one item Lee don't make they should. Then all you'll need to do is change the lock ring to change cartridge. Oh yeah, get TWO of each size gauge pin as sometimes the pins threaded end will break. Takes two weeks or so for Lee to replace them. You don't want to be stuck without one in a big batch. I've trimmed over 400 cases per hour (one step at a time). Beats hell out of those hand turned lathe blister makers.

You can't beat RCBS tools, damage one, call 'em and they'll send a replacement out that day N/C.

I've reloaded since '58 also. Casting bullets and reloading are my two main hobbies in the winter.

After fighting several different progressive presses I've gone back to a 1950's Lyman 4 hole turret single stroker. The turret only holds dies. There's a metal bracket that mounts under a die that's about 6" long, I put the powder measure on that.

I load 'em by the thousands. IF I get in the mood again this winter, I may load 5000 each: .38's and .40's. Lost interest last winter or they'd been done then.
I'll never live long enough to shoot up the ammo I have on hand.

Get a stock of SAW ammo cans. They'll seal and keep 'em forever.

Good luck and stay safe,
George

Dillon 550
Lee Classic Turret

i don't miss learning on my rockchucker -- but if I already knew how to do it, (say, after losing everything in a fire, etc) - i would, no doubt, start with a hornady LNL ap and enjoy shooting -- for everyone that's going to pounce on my going with a progressive, the hornady CAN be used as a single stage ... or, more accurately, you can do a single function (resize only, for example) and still do it faster than a single stage due to feeding

A drill press , a lathe and a welding setup.....

to reload?

quote:

Originally posted by georgeld:
Couple things I disagree with Roger on.
Lee powder measures are junk shit that leak powder all over the place. I've had half dozen of 'em and everyone leaked. Nearly burned my house down because of it.

Gollyyyy! I guess one man's shit is another mans fertilizer. Had 6? Slow learner on adjustment? roger

Not a lot to add, here. I use an RCBS press from decades ago, an old and familiar friend, but started with a couple of Lee Loaders. I trim cases with a Unimat benchtop lathe, a modified shell holder in the 3-jaw chuck. This is reasonably precise and you can thin the necks with the same setup (an unused bullet in the tailstock drill chuck to keep the neck centered).

If not doing lots of pistol I would do a Forstner Co-Ax no questions. But my opinion limiting yourself to only one press is blasphemy.

Awesome. Thanks guys. Lots of good info to weigh options on. I ordered the lyman and Lee 2nd edition (see I do listen) and am doing a lot of research on a few other manuals and equipment. By the time January rolls around and I need to get serious, I'll probably dive back down the rabbit hole for a whirlwind of wisdom again. I looked through the reloading room pics here and elsewhere and see I've got years of collecting and expanding ahead.
Thanks for the eBay tips too, I've already seen a few items to watch and wouldn't have thought about ebay as a source for firearm related stuff.
Thanks again for all the advice and sharing. Thanks to those who sent pm's who didn't want to publicly stir the pot in a push for certain presses and items- I'm deep into the weighing the options now and exploring the possibilities of the list given by crbutler. Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by AnotherAZWriter:
I would pass on the balance scale and go right to a digital. Turn it on a few hours before you use it to warm it up. I double check mine after calibration with a 240.0 and 100.0 bullet.

Interesting difference of opinion. I started with a balance scale then tried a couple of digitals. Was never happy with any of them as they tended to drift. I still own a digital for weighing bullets, cases, etc. But for powder charges went back to a balance scale.

quote:

Originally posted by Snowwolfe:

quote:

Originally posted by AnotherAZWriter:
I would pass on the balance scale and go right to a digital. Turn it on a few hours before you use it to warm it up. I double check mine after calibration with a 240.0 and 100.0 bullet.

Interesting difference of opinion. I started with a balance scale then tried a couple of digitals. Was never happy with any of them as they tended to drift. I still own a digital for weighing bullets, cases, etc. But for powder charges went back to a balance scale.

I check my calibration with those bullets mentioned above every 5-12 rounds. Rarely do I ever need to recalibrate.

I have one of those older Ohaus scales (RCBS 304); it is way better than the less expensive scales, which IMO tend to be overdampened and prone to error. But even with the 304, I find my newest RCBS digital pretty dead nuts on every time. In fact, that 240 grain bullet started to weigh 240.1 a while back, but I noticed it had oxidized pretty badly and had other crud on it. I took a bit of fine steel wool, cleaned off the crud, and it went right back to 240.0.

I've been reloading for about 50 years. I started with a Herter's C press for rifle and pistol and a single stage Honey Bair for my 12 gauge shotgun.

As my shooting progressed, I've changed and added reloaders, and continue to do so.

I still use my original 12 ga Honey Bair reloader for field loads. I added the 366 shotgun presses when I began shooting competitive Trap and later Skeet.

I replaced my C press with a RCBS Rockchucker some 40 years ago, and I still use it for almost all of my rifle reloading.

I also added the Dillon 450 press about 40 years ago and although I have shell plates for all of the cartridges that I reload, including magnum rifles, I mainly use this loader for pistol cartridges.

I still use a RCBS 5-0-5 balance scale, RCBS and Dillon powder throwers, Lyman and Forster trimmers, and Frankford Arsenal and Thumblers tumblers.

My reloading room has more stuff than it has room for. My bench is the full length of one wall. The legs are 4x4s and the top is flat 2x6s covered with 3/4" plywood covered with indoor/outdoor carpet.

crbutler and others have given you some good information. I have acquired and use most of the items and gadgets that have been mentioned. I have also altered some of my reloaders, and have made many tools that I have found a need for.

Joshb great advice in this thread. My advice is to be careful though. As you can see from some of the posters this little hobby can turn into an obsession leading to the acquisition of unlimited amounts of Stuff.

the tread was therapeutic for me as I see there are folks out there who have accumulated more reloading stuff than I have.... I thought I was the only one with this particular addiction.

I agree with everything said. I started with a Lyman spar T turret + the added a couple of RCBS rockchuckers,then bought a Dillon XL 650. I've got more dies than Carter has liver pills. Also almost every manual as well.I've been doing it since 1970 so its easy to accumulate a lot of stuff over time. Not to mention that there is a lot of dies that are'nt available now that were back when.(or hard to get;I.E RCBS will not sell direct to the public now + for specialty dies that is a killer.)

Lots of info. I started out on turrent presses.
I always liked the idea of not having to change dies every time you changed to a different step in the operation. my first press was true line jr.

Joshb, I don't doubt you have the ability to run a progressive press, but you don't understand what you are up against by reloading ONLY on a progressive. Metallic cartridge reloading is different than reloading shot shells. You need a single stage press to work up a load for each rifle or handgun you want to load for. It just isn't hardly doable on a progressive press. A progressive press only works when you have your exact load specifications lined out by bench testing for repeatable accuracy. When you set the press correctly you can crank out volumes of "your ammo" for "your gun". Also, a progressive press will not throw stick powders to any degree of consistency because of powder bridging, therefore you need to run ball powders through a progressive and that is a big deterrent for a lot of rifle cartridge loading. Take the guys advise and get a single stage press. I started with an RCBS Master Reloading kit and read everything in the Speer data manual until I understood it completely before I bought other necessary reloading tools that weren't in my RCBS kit, such as powders (plural) and dies, primers and bullets. You will probably need to get a vibratory case tumbler and media because I imagine those long stored brass cases are probably pretty crusty from sitting around in a bucket. I am north of 65 years and have been loading for many years. I say this to qualify myself as not being a greeny at reloading.

BTW, I have my single stage RCBS and a Hornady LNL Progressive, but other than 5.56x45 I only load pistol and revolver cartridges on the progressive.

AZ: Yep, paid $20 for the Ohaus in '58 new. Price 'em now!

Buffy: Still have my Herters C, changed rams though so I can use common shell holders.

Roger: Wipers on the Cones on Lee's powder measures don't last long, they jamb up and leak. IF your's don't, you're damned lucky that's all.

Norman C: Hmm, nes I guess, I bought a set of special order dies direct just last summer. Couple months getting them for $180, .358U/mag.
George

[QUOTE]Originally posted by georgeld:


Roger: Wipers on the Cones on Lee's powder measures don't last long, they jamb up and leak. IF your's don't, you're damned lucky that's all.


I actually take it apart(one screw) and wipe it down several times a year,especially after using ball powders, plus I tighten the screw as much as "practical". I also stay away from ball powders as much as I can. roger

quote:

Originally posted by georgeld:
AZ: Yep, paid $20 for the Ohaus in '58 new. Price 'em now!

I paid $179 for mine in 1979!