quote:

Originally posted by Snellstrom:
Sorry to see that Ted.
Look on the bright side, looks like you still got a building you just need a roof.
Best of luck rebuilding, if I lived closer I would come give a hand.

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
Without a doubt I will be beefing up the truss system maybee overkill but going with 24" this time and maybee an intierior room or two.

quote:

Originally posted by adamhunter:

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
Without a doubt I will be beefing up the truss system maybee overkill but going with 24" this time and maybee an intierior room or two.

Sorry to see that Ted. Not telling you how to build your shop, but as a builder myself, I would go 16" with your trusses and up the member sizes.

quote:

Originally posted by Steel Slinger:
That sucks, I know that lots of people over in my neck of the woods didn't fare so well either. Good friend of mine had 3 trees collapse on his house. He got pretty lucky though, very minimal damage... just the vent pipes and some of the shingles were damaged. Hell, there's still people out in the country with no power. I even heard that the power companies were being attacked with rotten food from peoples freezers cause they didn't have power.

quote:

Originally posted by James Kain:

quote:

Originally posted by Steel Slinger:
That sucks, I know that lots of people over in my neck of the woods didn't fare so well either. Good friend of mine had 3 trees collapse on his house. He got pretty lucky though, very minimal damage... just the vent pipes and some of the shingles were damaged. Hell, there's still people out in the country with no power. I even heard that the power companies were being attacked with rotten food from peoples freezers cause they didn't have power.

Why didnt they put the food outside in the snow to keep it frozen?

quote:

Originally posted by Doc224/375:
Ted Thorn ; may I ask what the spacing was on your gable roof trusses ?. What size where the Truss cords 2X4

or 2X6 ?. They appear to be 2X4's but pictures can deceive the eye .

When viewed from Front ? the shop doors , there is a space between the two doors in the center .

I would suggest if you like your shop open with out walls and rooms built inside to explore this possibility .

In that center section between the doors put a Post and then a beam above and resting on plate line , now

span the entire depth too the back wall ; post under where the beam rest on the plate line there also .

If you give me the measurement from front too back I can calculate the size needed to span that distance .

Either a Gluelam or Engineered Beam . It needs to be STOUT if necessary you can either have the contractor

check into it or building Dept. regulations if required ?.



Any way I would be confident by having the ridge beam or ridge rafter actually if it's a 2X material

being used . That's the one which runs under the peak the length of your shop wall too wall or beyond if

you have overhang . These are made by scarf cutting say 2X8 2X10's .

Now what I propose is a PROVEN DESIGN . In the middle of that Beam span you need to put a post up under

your Roof Ridge line . Sometimes " Welded Metal Saddles " are used for this purpose other times simply

place two blocks on either side for nailers . You end up with a Ridge beam rafter a much Larger

mid span Beam , with a post up too the ridge . Now at 45 degree angles brace the ridge rafter from the base

or up higher of your center post support . You can actually brace all four directions , but will need

mid span purling supports under your truss spans in order for them to be effective .


It just sounds complicated but is Easier to do for a competent carpenter . From each gable end of your shops

wall on top of the plate line angle back at 45 degrees Ridge line supports . In essence you have

trussed your Roof Ridge to bear weight down on too the Wall and Concrete rather than just trusses .

I'll try and find some drawings so You will be able to visualize it .

Most truss systems are by design Floating so no matter if you had interior rooms or walls they don't support

any more or less Roof Loads !. That's the down side too trusses over conventional stacked roofs which

bear weight down at all points .

quote:

Originally posted by James Kain:

quote:

Originally posted by adamhunter:

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
Without a doubt I will be beefing up the truss system maybee overkill but going with 24" this time and maybee an intierior room or two.

Sorry to see that Ted. Not telling you how to build your shop, but as a builder myself, I would go 16" with your trusses and up the member sizes.

No offense to you bub, but we have had people from GA and other places from down south come up to Maine to do some building. Most of them have fallen down due to the weight and stress of the snow and ice. They may not go down the first year but most do go down with in 5. People down sound, and you may not be included, have a tendency to forget about how winters affect building out this way. But then again you said you build them not design them. (after seeing all these places fall from people down south, I think I can poke a little fun at them)
But that's not bad if you compare that to the "engineers" who design parking lots! The ALWAYS forget about the snow! So it may look good but where do we put the snow? Also they turn the parking lot into a night mare for the guy(s) plowing it!
Best of luck!

quote:

Originally posted by adamhunter:

quote:

Originally posted by James Kain:

quote:

Originally posted by adamhunter:

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
Without a doubt I will be beefing up the truss system maybee overkill but going with 24" this time and maybee an intierior room or two.

Sorry to see that Ted. Not telling you how to build your shop, but as a builder myself, I would go 16" with your trusses and up the member sizes.

No offense to you bub, but we have had people from GA and other places from down south come up to Maine to do some building. Most of them have fallen down due to the weight and stress of the snow and ice. They may not go down the first year but most do go down with in 5. People down sound, and you may not be included, have a tendency to forget about how winters affect building out this way. But then again you said you build them not design them. (after seeing all these places fall from people down south, I think I can poke a little fun at them)
But that's not bad if you compare that to the "engineers" who design parking lots! The ALWAYS forget about the snow! So it may look good but where do we put the snow? Also they turn the parking lot into a night mare for the guy(s) plowing it!
Best of luck!

No offense taken James. That's why I said up the size and space his roofing members at 16" OC in lieu of 24".(increasing the amount of trusses/rafters). Snow load is a bitch to figure no matter where. By the way, I got my start in New Hampshire, plenty snow up there!