My friend and i chipped in and picked up a rock chucker supreme kit. We have been kicking around the idea of handloading for years now and have finally decided to get into it since I have to take out a small loan to buy factory ammo these days. Couple more weeks and I should have everything I need to kick this pig.

I was hoping to get a few ideas from you guys on which hunting loads to start with. There are so many options out there, its making my head spin. I will be loading ammo in the following calibers:
338 win mag
300 H&H
30-06
7mm rem mag
270 win

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Cole

If you want to reload for best accuracy, I suggest you do what a few folks have done for over 50 years. They've reloaded more ammo in more calibers than anybody else I know of. And they get the best accuracy with their bullets, too. They're still doing it. 1/4 to 1/3 MOA accuracy at 200 yards with good match bullets is normal.

These folks full length size all their fired cases. They used to lap the necks of some of their dies out so they were 2 or 3 thousandths smaller than a loaded round neck diameter. Dies with expander balls tend to bend case necks a bit too much for best accuracy. Now they use Redding Full Bushing dies with the neck bushing of the correct size for cartridges they're made for. Other cartridges are reloaded with Redding standard full length sizing dies. The critical thing in their sizing is fired case shoulders are not set back more than a couple thousandths. One needs a case headspace gage to measure cases properly so setting the die in the press can be done correctly.

Their rifle barrels all have standard SAAMI chambers and they don't prep cases. Nor do they work up loads; they just use the same one for a given cartridge and bullet. Powder charges are not weighed, just thrown direct from powder measures.

Many years ago, they tried various forms of popular neck sizing techniques, but never got consistant results. But they also learned that some types of neck only sizing did get better accuracy than improper full length sizing techniques. Especially when the fired case shoulder was set back way too far by an incorrectly set die.

Proper full length sizing processes have been used to win more high power rifle matches than all others combined. Benchrest match folks have started moving towards full length sizing instead of various form of neck sizing. While any fired case sizing technique will occasionally produce microscopic size groups with a few shots, the smallest test groups with more than 15 shots I know of have all been made with proper full length sized fired cases.

Those folks I mentioned that have done so well full length sizing their fired cases all did and do so at Sierra Bullets testing their products for accuracy. Get a Sierra reloading manual, read and study what's said. Their load data's as good or better than anyones. Ask Sierra for help when you want or need it; they're great in that regard.

If you can get better results some other way, good for you.

Is that all you have to date? The Rockchucker or did you get the supreme kit? Do you have the rest of the stuff you need? I'd be interested in hearing the list of what you have and what you believe you need, And if you or your freind have any experience with reloading?

If you haven't done it yet, invest in at least three loading manuals produced by both bullet and powder manufacturers and read the instructional part of all three at least three times before you start doing any reloading!

Get yourself some H4350 and H4831, some Sierra Gamekings and Winchester/Remington/CCI LR primers and you are set.

Thanks for the tips guys!

Niether one of us have any experience in reloading cartriges, just shotshells.

@icemanls2, To date we have the rock chucker supreme kit, case tumbler, and 338, 7mm, 30-06 f/l dies and a bit of brass. Still need the case trimmer, shell holders, couple more manuals, caliper, bullets, primers, powder and would like a nice digital scale.

Am Missing anything?

Before you get a digital scale, I'd invest in a good balance beam scale. In fact, that would be among my very first purchases.

I agree that one of the 4350's and H4831 will cover all of your listed rifles.

quote:

Originally posted by ktmfreak:
Thanks for the tips guys!

Niether one of us have any experience in reloading cartriges, just shotshells.

@icemanls2, To date we have the rock chucker supreme kit, case tumbler, and 338, 7mm, 30-06 f/l dies and a bit of brass. Still need the case trimmer, shell holders, couple more manuals, caliper, bullets, primers, powder and would like a nice digital scale.

Am Missing anything?

You pass! That was a trick question, I was looking for { MANUALS} in that list. I know alot of guys like tha balance beam scales but you can't beat a good digital scale imo. I just don't care for the balance beams(had 3 of them)because in my experience they HANG quite often. They were good when that was what was available but i've had a real hard time getting repeatable results with them. It appears you have a pretty complete list for starters. Make sure you read the manuals and don't rush it. Turn off the radio, shut the phone off and only keep the components for the load you are working on the bench and nothing else. First starting out i recommend weighing every charge thrown. Although reloading can be done safely and fun, It can be fatal if you don't pay attention. Have fun.

@wasbeeman: Will the rcbs 505 scale that came with the kit work?

Right on icemanls2. Appreciate the help

I have the speer #14 that came with the kit and will get sierras latest as others suggested. Any thoughts on the lyman #49?

You haven't mentioned a set of calipers yet. You're gonna need 'em. Though more expensive, I prefer the digital style. No interpolation errors and faster to use as well. I'd also get the Nosler manual and I think your Sierra manual is good as well.
I load 2 of the cartridges you list, the .270 Win. and .338 WM. My load for the .270 is 57.0 gr. of Rldr-22 and a 150 gr. Partition and I get 2930 fps with it. Lots of guys use H-4831 but I've found Rldr-22 is more accurate for me. In the .270, I only use 150 gr. bullets.
For my .338 WM, the load is 73.0 grs. of Rldr-22 and a 225 gr. Northfork. NF's are quite expensive and only used for final sight-in and hunting. I find the NF to be slightly more accurate than a 225 gr. Partition and this load gives me 2800 fps as measured on the chrono.
BTW, As to loading equipment, I'd also recommend that you get the RCBS hand priming tool. It uses the same shell holder as your press and by doing it by hand, you get a much better "feel" to seating depth.
Hope this helps some.
Bear in Fairbanks

You need a manual… preferably several.
I tend to use manuals published by the bullet manufacturer… not the powder manufacturer, although I have both.

The Bullet Manufacturer has put work into their bullet & powder combination.

I like Nosler Bullets for 223, 30-06, and 338, For 450 Marlin I tend to use Speer.

I tend to shy away from most Internet Forum loads unless I can find them in a manual… even with all the good intention typos happen.

You have everything to start. If you have read the sections on die setup, selecting powders, etc. You can start in. Your best bet IMO, start loadign for only one cartridge to keep things simple. I would choose the 06. It's got tons of data, lots of bullet choices & no pesky belt to deal with (a bit more knowledge to reload them for best results).
Look at your manuals, pick a powder that gives you the vel. you are looking for. Average the max from three manuals & then back off 6-7% & work upto the max load in 0.2gr increments. Choose an OAL that puts the bullet at least 0.1" off the lands (rifling) or that fits your magazine & functions. Load no more than 3rds per powder charge & shoot them from lowest to highest. Note accuracy, & any pressure signs (read that section 3X). Your rifle will tell you which load is most accurate. You can tweek the OAL in or out a bit to see if accuracy improves.

Remember to exercise common sense and caution when you reload. Allow yourself the luxury of gaining some experience. Patience is a virtue!

Try to keep in mind that accuracy and consistency are your goals. It isn't how fast, but how accurate your rounds are that counts.

To quote Admiral John Fisher of the Royal Navy. . . Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery. Hit the target, all else is twaddle!

Reloading is a great hobby. I've been doing it for 50+ years and learn something new almost every day!

Best to you and your friends!

Thanks to everyone for all the great advice. Every little bit helps!

Keep it comin guys!

My thumb rules for beginners

1 Do not aim for very high velocity or go above book velocity - that is when the REAL trouble starts
2 Start with Lyman manual for 6 months and stick to 1 or 2 calibers
3 Learn about pressure & its complexities. This is MOST critical. You will meet people and read posts of people getting 100 fps above max loads etc. IGNORE this as it is dangerous. 5% increase in velocity will result in 10% to 20% increase in pressure.
4 Buy a Chronograph - Shooting Chrony is functional & inexpensive
5 Keep detailed records as suggested in the manual

Good luck and enjoy this hobby. BE SAFE.

Look at these threads

http://forums.accuratereloadin...2511043/m/8291047621

http://forums.accuratereloadin...2511043/m/3841090421

http://forums.accuratereloadin...2511043/m/5671028621

http://forums.accuratereloadin...2511043/m/6811013521