The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Reloading About to start reloading...Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| About to start reloading... | Login/Join |
One of Us |
Alright, im sorta new here and been lurking for some time. But I got a few areas im still cloudy on and would like some clarification before I buy my press. Inially I was going to buy a Hornady lock & Load press. Of course this was just at first glance by alot of reveiws and such I haveread. Here are the calibers I plan to load... 308 for my hunting rifle 450 marlin guide gun 204 varmit exterminator 7mm Mag, long range toy 22 hornet maybe... Those are my main 4, so would a progressive reloader be ideal for my selection of calibers im going to load? Also I need some good links on reloading information. Im still leanring things and I keep coming across topics and things im not clear on. I understand the basic concept of what im going to accomplish here. my 7mm Mag and 308 ammo are my main area of focus cause accuracy is a must for them 2 rifles. Some things im wanting to find out is write ups on case trimming. As I already have A BUNCH of factory loaded ammo, and once fired brass for my rifles. Also on searching through the library of dies listed for sale I see things like 1, 2 and 3 die sets. Since most of my brass is already been fired I only need a neck sizing die correct? Im sure there is a website out there that will answer most of my questions. And I know most of my quetions have been answered before, but I havent been able to find reliable information while searching through the past topics. | ||
|
| One of Us |
Scrounge up a good quality single stage press and a set of FL dies for the bottle neck rounds. Once you have loaded and learned a couple of years you can move on to the progressive if you wish. To start out with an emphasis on speed is not necessary or recommended. | |||
|
One of Us |
________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
|
| one of us |
My idea is that a decision on single stage press vs. a progressive press should be based on projected volume of reloading in a session. If you plan on loading a hundred or so rounds at a time or less, a single stage press will do all you will need. If the magic number is several hundred rounds or more, then a progressive press is in order. You can use progressive presses as a single stage if you feel the need. I would recomend after you pick the "style" search out the best one your budget can handle. muck | |||
|
one of us |
Buy a couple of reloading manuals like Speer, Hornady, Nosler, Barnes, etc. Make sure you get the ones for the components you are going to shoot with. Most every one will have step by step loading instructions and trouble shooting info. As muck said above, unless you are going to be shooting high volume, stick to a single stage for the time being. I have both but usually don't bother to set up the progressive unless I am loading 50+ rounds and will often use both ie, resize on the single stage, then tumble to remove lube, then set up the progressive for priming, charging and seating. Also a progressive is a pain if you are doing load development so you probably need a single stage anyway. Have gun- Will travel The value of a trophy is computed directly in terms of personal investment in its acquisition. Robert Ruark | |||
|
| one of us |
My first suggestion is to get several reloading manuals and read them thru several times thoroughly. I personally like Sierra, & Nosler the best but... Lottsa guys like/recommend Hornady, Lyman & "The ABC's of Reloading". I would NOT advise starting out with the press you mention but rather get a GOOD quality single stage and learn the rudiments of loading first. As to dies, most rifles will use 2 dies, a sizer and a bullet seater. When looking in the catalogs for the caliber you're interested in, it will tell you the number of dies in the set. Some rifles use a 3 die set - I THINK your 450 Marlin MIGHT be one (never loaded for one nor shot one) but if so, those sets of dies contain a die to bell the mouth. .45-70 dies are an example of such a set. As to case trimming, the norm is to trim to about 0.010" less than the case length shown in the reloading manual. Sometimes, the "Trim to" length is given. You will want a set of vernier calipers for your reloading. Although expensive, I personally like and use a digital caliper. I find it faster and easier to use with no problems in interpolation. Everyone has their likes & dislikes though. My only other comment would be to buy quality equipment one time and be done with it. I don't like buying twice. If you don't have the money for it, save until you do. Good luck & keep asking questions here on the board if you need to. Bear in Fairbanks Unless you're the lead dog, the scenery never changes. I never thought that I'd live to see a President worse than Jimmy Carter. Well, I have. Gun control means using two hands. | |||
|
one of us |
IMO, you don't need a progressive until you are shooting about 1000rds per month minimum. For 100rds of rifle a month, easily done on a single stage more cheaply & w/ less fuss. You need to read a few books. The ABCs of Reloading is the beginners bible & should be read twice. Then get at least two good manuals. FOr rifles, the Speer #14 & Nosler or Sierra would be my choice. LIFE IS NOT A SPECTATOR'S SPORT! | |||
|
| One of Us |
Cool, looks like a single staege is exctly what I need. I been going through websites and findig load information for my rounds im shooting. One topic im having difficulty finding facts on is the trimming portion. I understand there is a MAX length the brass should be before reloading, and I need to measire the brass then cut it to proper length. | |||
|
| One of Us |
Alright, I found a single press kit I like. Its a LEE kit that comes with alot of stuff that is just basic things I need to reload. Also a set of digital calipers from Midway are only $23, so I will purchase them with the press. 1 more thing, is a tumbler a must have for reloading? And is there a write up somewhere about reading cartridge pressures? I understand the cencept behind going to far with a laod and runing the brass. But there isnt much information out there on how to read the brass itself for too much pressure. | |||
|
| One of Us |
A tumbler is a very good "nice to have" item. We lived without them for years but once you have one, it becomes a gotta have item.  Another good, first "nice to have" item that I think is of much greater value than all of the thingies for comparing and measuring and such is a Chrony. Properly used, it can open up informational windows that will help no end in your load developments. Aim for the exit hole | |||
|
| One of Us |
Chrono's a pretty pricey aren't they??? I understand how they can be a great tool to have when load developing. But is the cost truly worth the benefits you get out of them? | |||
|
One of Us |
It depends on how deep you get into load development & how much disposable income you have. I bought one & find it almost indispensable for culling loads which have too much velocity spread. It also removes any tendency to take manufacturers' velocity claims as gospel. | |||
|
| One of Us |
If you can find them, I would go with small-base reloading dies. These are dies that squeeze the case down to maybe .0010 to .0015 inches under what a full-length die will do. This smaller size makes sure the round will fit into the gun. There are those that say if you shoot the reloads in the same gun as the original firing, you don't need small-base dies. Well, I'd rather use the small-base dies and be sure in knowing my reloads will fit than find out they will not after I've loaded up a bunch of them. I have lately begun using a case comparator from Sinclair, made by L. E. Wilson, Inc. For checking your cases for proper sizing, it is the thing to have. They are expensive at $25 each (plus $10 to ship it to you), but they provide an instant Yes or No indication if your cases are correctly sized. If the head is flush with the lower groove, the sizing is correct and the case will fit any gun with a SAAMI chamber. I swear by mine after having to resize about 5,000 cases that were too long from head to shoulder...   The comparator in the picture is for a .223Remington. If the head in the picture on the right were to be above the upper surface, the bolt in my AR-15 will not close. I measure the groove at 0.006 inches, which is probably the headspace of a SAAMI .223Rem chamber... | |||
|
Moderator |
buy a turret press or a hornady LNL AP press .. and YES for his first press. get a turret with a removeable top and buy several tops .. the carts youa re talking about aren't exactly hard to reload for, either... opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
|
| One of Us |
Why do you say buy progressive? | |||
|
| One of Us |
I curious why buy a turret press also? Aim for the exit hole | |||
|
| One of Us |
You are going to get about as many different opinions as you get responses. My opinions are: Get a single stage press. There are so many things that can go wrong and doing them one at a time increases the chances of catching a mistake. By all means get more than one manual and cross check them. The turret press does allow placing a case in it and not removing it until the round is complete. Instead of taking the case in and out of the holder for different operations, you are rotating a turret. This is all well and good----but it precludes doing some things I like to do. For example, I like to clean primer pockets. I also like to wipe the cases, or better yet tumble them after they are sized to remove the sizing lube. Many times a neck will split when sized--by handling them you are more apt to find this---progressive or turret decreases the chance of finding them. The 3 die set has an extra die to flare the neck when you use cast bullets. This is not needed on jacketed bullets. By the way I do recommend taking up casting. I read here frequently that this and that and the other powder measure will not meter certain types of powder. I use a Belding & Mull measure and they are slow but seem to be very accurate with any type powder. Might have to go to EBAY to find one. For most everything else---you wont go wrong with RCBS---they stand behind their stuff. Are you in the Air Force Brando? If so what job? I am retired AF---26 years. | |||
|
| Moderator |
why a progress or turrent? TIME!!! If you have a turret with a rotating head, you can do all the steps to one piece of brass, without removing it from the press, and turn out high quality, but single stage, ammo quickly. Unless you need 3.65" long ammo, this is the easist thing to do. Loading pistol ammo is a PITA on a single stage press Why a progressive? If the hornady LNL AP had been available when I started reloading, It would have been my dream. If you are concerned about powder charges, then charge OFF PRESS -- which is what I do with most long big bores, anyway .. and still have a better than 50 rounds per hour output .. opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
|
| One of Us |
Can I load a 500Ar round on a progressive loader like the HornadyLNL? I dont shoot pistols, I only shoot hunting rifles and rimfire's. My centerfire rifle round per month are less than 250, for me to shoot more than 200 rounds of centerfire rifle per month is really pushing it. Not even during the prime of hunting season do I shoot that much. All my rifles are already zero'd and ready to kill. All I want to do with reloading is cut my cost of the more higher priced ammo I end up buying. Like for my 308 I love tha Federal ammo with the trophy bonded tip. But at $42 per box, I can roll up some Nosler Accubonds that will perform just as good. Same goes for my 7mm Mag...And soon to be 500AR as well, I will deffinatly need a press, the local gun store will look at me like im crazy if I ask if they carry ammo for a 500AR. | |||
|
| Moderator |
i do use it for 500 AR .. off press powder charging, at this time ... I am making a new through powder for that for mine .. but the bench adaptor for the LNL powder thrower aint much! opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
|
| One of Us |
While I was assisting my friend reload for his 375 RUM we done nothing but off press powder charging. Seems to me like this is the only way to go if you want good consistency. It was amazing was 1 single grain of powder would do on the scale. As mentioned before my main reason to reload is to get consistency on my loads for my hunting rifle and long range toy. And of course for this new 500AR im planning on owning I got to make food for that beast some how... Thanks guys, been a heap of help! | |||
|
One of Us |
Let us get some basics FIRST You are new to reloading - so you need AT LEAST 1 year of learning the basics. I would start with the LEE kit and the Lyman manual. I would avoid playing with too many data sources for at least 1 year. Pressure figures are not easy to understand and there are complex variable & it is so easy to make BIG mistakes when comparing data from different load sources. The same powder & primer load with different bullet brand & same weight can give 20% variance in pressure in a rifle. Changing primer or case brand can do the same. I would buy a Shooting Chrony - cheap and reliable. I would start with a few basic powders - Say H4895 and Varget for the 308 and Re22 and N560 for the 7mm Rem mag. I would not try too many powders in the beginning. The same with bullets - I would start with 2 or 3 in a caliber & get the best out of them before experimenting too much. I would try for good accuracy & not max velocity. I was glad I focused on understanding pressure - not that I am an expert....BUT pressure is the single BIGGEST safety factor. I started measuring case web expansion from the beginning to understand how pressure can change suddenly with change in components. I would never try to achieve high velocities. I know you will meet and read posts from people who claim 100 fps more than the manual. It scares the hell out of me when the manuals like Lyman are based on actual pressure tested loads. 100fps more in a 3000fps 7mm Rem mag is equal to roughly 4000 to 6000 PSI increase in pressure! I have not reloaded for the 22 Hornet but I know that it can be very fussy. One recommendation by Ross Seyfried is to use Pistol primers! "When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia