quote:

In my 375 the Barnes solids will shoot to the same POI as the TSX with a slight power adjustment. I can look it up but i think 2 grains less.

FYI I will be at the same camp a month before you.

I'd love to get my hands on some Barnes solids to reload. Can't find em anywhere.

quote:

Originally posted by BNagel:
Load? I can only squeeze enough W760 in my .375 Wby under long 350-grainers. Thanks

Barry

A trusted friend reloaded my 350 grain Barnes TSX bullets using their posted recommendations. Sorry, but I can't give you the particulars right now, although I can say they were below the maximum listed.

https://www.barnesbullets.com/...eqlanihp9cmjqvc0rgf2

quote:

Originally posted by 163bc:

quote:

In my 375 the Barnes solids will shoot to the same POI as the TSX with a slight power adjustment. I can look it up but i think 2 grains less.

FYI I will be at the same camp a month before you.

I'd love to get my hands on some Barnes solids to reload. Can't find em anywhere.

You'll have a very hard time finding Barnes Banded Solids in .375 at this juncture. The BATFE has them under a ban currently and those of us who have a few remaining, aren't generally willing to part with them. However, you'll find the CEB BBW#13s to be at least as good if not a bit better bullet all the way around, if you're wanting to go the brass route. If copper is your choice, I agree with JPK on the North Forks, both the FN solids and Cup Point solids. I think for buffalo, the Cup Point solids are about as good as it gets for a "non expanding bullet" even though they do "expand" a bit. Good bullets for the purpose.

quote:

Originally posted by Todd Williams:
If copper is your choice, I agree with JPK on the North Forks, both the FN solids and Cup Point solids. I think for buffalo, the Cup Point solids are about as good as it gets for a "non expanding bullet" even though they do "expand" a bit. Good bullets for the purpose.

Anyone have any load data on the Northforks they can share??

quote:

Originally posted by ZombieKiller:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
With that chambering there is no such thing as softs because even the TSX`s will turn into solids once they hit a one ton buff..If you where using a 500gr bullet then you could refer to them and a bunch of others as softs.I would consider using a solid like a Woodleigh FMJ or a Hornady FMJ(my favorite).I would use Hornady FMJ for my 500 NE but I have a bunch of Woodleighs and they will do..
When you have a rifle calibre that begins with 3 and you want to shoot softs I would stick to smaller game especially if the bullet grains start with 2.

I would listen closely to George, the wannabees here attack him but he knows his shit.

Saved so all could see the real identity of ZK.

Hmm! Shootaway posts a completely nonsensical post (I only know because ledvm reposted it -- shootaway is on ignore) and then the only person who defends him is the other major troll on this site, Zombie Killer. (He's on my ignore too, so I'll never see the response to this).

Anyone think they are one in the same, or evil twins or whatever? Let's ALL put them both on IGNORE! Then we never have to listen to them again!

quote:

Originally posted by lavaca:
Hmm! Shootaway posts a completely nonsensical post (I only know because ledvm reposted it -- shootaway is on ignore) and then the only person who defends him is the other major troll on this site, Zombie Killer. (He's on my ignore too, so I'll never see the response to this).

Anyone think they are one in the same, or evil twins or whatever? Let's ALL put them both on IGNORE! Then we never have to listen to them again!

You two are both dumber than dog doo doo. You haven't a clue.

Zk you are an effing TROLL!
Do us a favor and leave us alone!
You are not welcome.

I am going on my first African safari in September for buffalo.

I am loading / trying out 416 Rigby with 350 gr TSX, CEB 325 gr Raptor & CEB 350 gr Solids & 340 gr Woodleigh softs. All of them shoot to the same POA. I'll take the CEBs & TSX with me.


I also tried Woodleigh 410 gr softs & 400 gr Barnes banded solid (RN) & they both shoot to same POA - 4 inches lower than the above loads at 50 meters.

I might take a few 400 gr Barnes solids in case I decide to try for a tuskless elephant cow.

FWIW, I would want those Barnes solids shooting to the bead at 25yds for a tuskless. Not lower than the bead but right where the bead is placed or perhaps at the top of the bead.

Along with that, you do not want to have a scope on the rifle for tuskless or any elephant hunting, at least if you wish to enjoy all of the excitement that hunting close will provide.

So, if you can't get them shooting together, you can set up your scope for the buffalo bullets and the open sights for your solids.

JPK

JPK, thanks a heap for that tip! makes a lot of sense.

quote:

Originally posted by JPK:
...
Along with that, you do not want to have a scope on the rifle for tuskless or any elephant hunting, at least if you wish to enjoy all of the excitement that hunting close will provide.
JPK

If the scope is set to 1X. isn't that the same thing?

quote:

FYI I will be at the same camp a month before you.

Great. Leave us a couple. I look foreword to your report & pics. Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by tanks:

quote:

Originally posted by JPK:
...
Along with that, you do not want to have a scope on the rifle for tuskless or any elephant hunting, at least if you wish to enjoy all of the excitement that hunting close will provide.
JPK

If the scope is set to 1X. isn't that the same thing?

Imo, no, but for others the answer would be: It depends. If a scope performs like holographic red dot type sights at "1x" then maybe yes, but some eat up perspective. If the scope you would want to use does not interfere with perspective then perhaps it would be ok. I have never found one that didn't eat perspective but some come close.

For example, I have S&B and Sworovski 1.1x4x24mm illuminated red dot scopes and wouldn't want to use either for elephants up close, they both eat perspective, but could in a pinch, say if the front sight was broken or something similar.

Also, there are very few scopes that are actually 1x at the lower end, despite what the advertisement or labeling says. For example, Leupold's 1x4 VX2 is not 1x but something greater.

Try your scope with both eyes open to see how the perspective changes compared to open sights and to see if the view of the target remains the same with both eyes. I doubt it will and I predict you will find the scope eats perspective too. There is just no way to make that eye piece invisible, it displaces perspective, which is really important when you are close to elephants, and even at my scopes' 1.1x that lost perspective in within the head of the elephant a the ranges I have killed most elephants.

I would remove the scope for an elephant hunt. There are plenty of QR ring options that are cost effective and return to zero adequately to allow removal and remounting without re-sighting. (Though if I was also hunting leopard I would want to re-sight after remounting. Small target, big problems with a less than perfect shot.)

JPK

It's been said before but probably can't be said enough: Where you hit him with that first shot is far more important than what you hit him with.

However, for backing shots most of what I have read (from Doctari and many others) suggests that solids are preferable to an expanding bullet.

I've killed several buff with a .375 and always used a 300 grain "soft" - either a TSX or an A-Frame for the first shot. I've always used solids for backing shots - the Barnes back when they were available, the Hornady DGS since then.

I'm headed to the Selous this summer and may try out the NorthFork cup nose people seem to like so well (though I'm taking both a .375 and a double in 450-400 and would prefer to shoot the double, so I'll be shooting 400 grain bullets from that). Most of my backing shots at buff have been at the arse end - and maybe a TSX or an A-Frame would get to where it needs to go (assuming I miss the hip or spine) but I have more confidence a solid will get there.

I agree that 30 grains isn't really going to make a difference, but I also agree there's no reason to NOT use the 300 grain bullet. The 270 offers a flatter trajectory but that doesn't matter given the distance at which you'll shoot your buff. So personally I'd stick with the 300 grain bullet.

I can also vouch for the use of solids on little stuff - I have shot duikers and a klippie with solids from a 375 with very satisfactory results.

Buff Nut,

The North Forks would be great in your double rifle too!

I have used them in mine and they are great.

JPK

I want them dead right now and right there.

So for buff I use a much bigger rifle.

But if you're willing to chase them, then 30 grains of bullet weight will make not a whit of difference, or distance, in the chase.

Good bullets, like the Barnes TSX, will certainly kill.

Just a question of when, or put another way, of how long until he realizes he is dead.

If you have a .40 calibre rifle, why would you use less than a 400 grain bullet? Works on elephant, works on duiker!

My experience:
Buff #1: One frontal shot, ran 100 yds. .375 H&H 300gr Trophy Bonded Sledgehammer

Buff #2: one frontal shot .375 TBSH, ran 3 hrs- 2 shots .458 500gr TBSH, ran 1 hr- 2 shots .470 500gr solids taking out top half of heart ran 25 feet

Buff #3: single shoulder shot .375 300gr TSX, dropped like a sack of potatoes

As you can see, a single shot well placed is sufficient, but as #2 showed, buffalo can soak up amazing punishment. A little more detail on that one - after catching him in a 7-foot deep wash with vertical walls PH Dylan Cloete put the 2-470's in him and he still had enough strength to LEAP out of that wash before collapsing. When we cut his heart out the top 1/2 was just hamburger.