Alrighty then. So, I have been shooting the same load, bullet, everything is the same. Brass gets measuerd before each loading, and the brass is 5 shots old. I load one up, shoot it, and the extractor slips off of the round. I have to close teh bolt again, and open real slow. The extractor does not look broken at all, or disfigured. It has a slight amount of brass residue on it, thats about it. I have never had a problem with sticking cases cause of pressure, so I would assume it is not my load.
Besides all of the "shouldve gotten a Winny, CZ550, RSM", what can I do to correct the problem? Inspected all of the brass, and the rims look fine. Sako extractor? I have heard of others installing an M16 extractor too.
I guess if I had the choice, I would rather modify the bolt I have compared to purchasing another bolt body. Then again too, I have priced neither a new bolt body, or gettin a sako/M16 installed. Thoughts?
Seems your extractor should be replaced. It's not something I've ever encountered but Remington has had some extractor problems.
Most any smith can do it in a flash.
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Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003
Well, you can start by removing the bolt and inserting an empty case in the bolt face, under the extractor and see how much of a grip the extractor has on the case as you apply pressure to the neck of the case, in the opposite direction of the extractor or towards the ejector. The extractor should hold the case solid, only releasing it's grip when you swing the case in the direction of the extractor. Does that make sense? If it fails this test then you probably need a new extractor which is relatively cheap on a 700. The Sako and M-16 extractor options aren't as cheap.
Deprime a case. Stick a bullet in it. Wait for your Father-in-Law to come over. While he's there, sit in the Living Room with him and get that bullet out and the bolt. Stick the cartridge on the bolt head and then start beating on the end of it with a big hammer.
Make about every 3rd whack a real hard one...
Gixxer, I still laugh at your earlier post. It was truly a classic.
What caliber are we talking here. I‘m sure I have an extra standard bolt face extractor laying around and I’ll send you one.
All it takes to install it is one thumb and a plastic handled screw driver (you just use the handle to push it in place)...I assume you have both of those?
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005
Rick, its a RUM. Just to be clear here, the spring loaded plunger is in place, and not poking out all over the place, missing, whatever. Maybe my gun terminology sucks, but I was talking about the lip machined into the side of the boltface, not the plunger. The plunger still looks OK.
Hello Gixxer, Hear a story now and then about the Remington 700 extractor giving problems, but not a serious or repeat problem as one might think. I as well as others have put literally thousands of rounds through these rifles and experienced very few if any problems. Question? Is the case difficult to pull out of the chamber?? You indicate that the brass is not stubborn to remove, so then you need to take a look at the extractor itself. I would not go to the expense of installing a 15/16 style extractor over the original one when a simple replacement of the original on is probably going to solve the problem. Based on the caliber you mention, newer one, I would guess that the extractor is not the riveted version and the snap in type. As Rick 0311 suggested, fairly easy to install. Believe Brownell's may have the part you are needing. Do a search on the web site and you can find out real quick. Good Luck
Originally posted by gixxer: Rick, its a RUM. Just to be clear here, the spring loaded plunger is in place, and not poking out all over the place, missing, whatever. Maybe my gun terminology sucks, but I was talking about the lip machined into the side of the boltface, not the plunger. The plunger still looks OK.
gixxer,
“Extractors“ grab the case and pull it from the chamber...â€Ejectors†punch the empty case out.
Extractors on 700’s are not machined into the bolt face. They are a small spring steel ‘C’ shaped affair that snap into a groove cut into the bolt face. They can be removed with a dental pick and needle nose pliers, and a new one popped in with just your fingers and something like a plastic handle on a screw driver.
It’s easier for you to just take it to a smith and have him take a look at it to determine whats wrong and if anything needs to be replaced.
Just a thought...is there any fouling, grease or debris lodged under the extractor claw? You might start by soaking and scrubbing the bolt face with a tooth brush, and check to see if that helps any.
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005
Use a jeweller's loupe or good magnifying glass and lok it over, .....bet you'll find a small crack in the ring of the extractor, ......it's behavior is the common problem with a crack, ...don't ask me why they'll work on the second try, they just do! Get a new extractor! ~Arctic~
Confusing.... I've just handled a 300 RUM BDL made in 2003 (barrel code "XX") that has a rivetted extactor. And a recently purchased new '06, matte ADL, that also had a rivetted extractor. Maybe these were built with bolts from old inventory?
Now, after examining the bolt more closely, I can see the C clip the extractor is on. I am gonna place an order @ brownells and get a new one. Sure as shit, the clip is riveted in.
Although its no biggie, it's irritating that I have not had 500 rounds through this thing yet, and its jacked. Either way, I am gonna order a new part. MAN, wish I had most of the knowledge that I have now when I bought this damn thing, I wouldve never purchased a Remington. That extractor sure is pussy ass small.
Anyhow, I might just spend the money for the Sako. As a matter of factly, let's call the smith right now. They cost about the same, its all about the smith work.
Remington retained the rivited extractor for the magnum cases and it’s pretty much a gunsmith job to remove and install them unless you are real tool and mechanically savy.
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005
Look at it this way...if you bought a RUM how smart could you be? Just kidding!
No arguments from the peanut gallery on that one, considering the price I paid for that POS I couldve been shooting a 470 Mbogo! Oh wait, at the time I told myself I had better get a 375 first and work my way up. What a dumbass thing to tell myself.
If it makes you feel any better, I've broken the extractor on my Mk V Wby 338/378 twice. Either way, I still think you've got a better piece of hardware. Get the new one installed and you should be good for life.
Posts: 852 | Location: Austin | Registered: 24 October 2003
in the 2005 Gun Digest there’s a story about a famous Australian Hunting Guide named Bob Penfold.
He has two favorite rifles...a BRNO 602 in .375 H&H and a Remington 700 in .308. He said he did have to replace the extractor in the Remy once because after 300,000 (yes, that’s three-hundred-thousand!) rounds and several barrels the extractor had worn almost smooth and was starting to slip off a case rim every now and then. His words...not mine!
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005
Well, talked to the smith, and he will install the Sako for $50 labor. I should have him work the trigger on both mine and the wife's POS at the same time.
I know that once I get the trigger adjusted on the wife's, I HOPE it will be a nice shooter. Its real hard to tell with the trigger being so heavy with a light rifle. And the 375, I will have a better mousetrap by the time an African hunt comes around. Still gonna keep em both though. I just like to call the rifles names when things dont work out!
If you can find a smith to do the Sako mod for $50, run away from him as fast as you can. If you insist on him doing it, make damn sure he bushes the bolt face and doesn't just mill the slot for the extractor. Believe me, that is a recipe for disaster; not doing the bushing thing.
Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Cusom Gunmakers Guild
Posts: 5507 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002
If you decide to go with a Sako extractor you might think about keeping the original bolt and having the conversion done on a new bolt. Then if you ever decide to sell the rifle the buyer can have the option of using the one that he prefers...plus, if you ever have to send the rifle in for a warranty job to Remington you can put the factory bolt back in it.
I also agree with Jim Kobe...this conversion, if its done at all, should only be done by a smith with lots of experience in installing them because it can lead to all sorts of safety and functional problems (ejection?) if not done correctly. The job is not a “quickie†one or two hour affair and if a guy says he’ll do it for $50 bucks I would be leery.
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005
It is a solid ring that is soldered to the bolt nose, and surrounds and supports the case head, keeping it from slipping out from the extractor and under the rim of the bolt nose, causing ejection trouble.
If you just remove the Remington extractor you are still left with the machined groove that it rode in and the rim of the case can get hung up in it. Just one of those “little things“ that separates a $50.00 job from a truly competent installation by someone who understands the mechanics of the system he is altering.
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005
Wow, makes complete sense. Boy, am I glad I have all this intel before I drop off the rifle. I hope this works out with this smith. I know he knows how to drill holes straight. I had him drill out my scope mount holes to 8x40, and that came out good.
Funny thing, I was walking in the door from work this afternoon, and the brownells box was already here! Wish my Williams extractor would get here! It says in the directions clear as day to make a bushing. Man, losing that spring in a pile of metal shavings sure would blow.
Hey guys, thanks a bunch for the info. I was worried a little after you guys mentioned the bushing thing, but I think it will work out. Man, if I could, I would buy all you guys a beer!!
"I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money." - Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953
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Posts: 12608 | Location: Kentucky, USA | Registered: 30 December 2002
gixxer - I'm right across the peninsula from you in Palm Bay. I have the tool to hold the new rivet in place while you peen it over. Answer this post and I'll send you my phone number in a PM and we can talk it over.
"I ask, sir, what is the Militia? It is the whole people. To disarm the people is the best and most effective way to enslave them" - George Mason, co-author of the Second Amendment during the Virginia convention to ratify the Constitution
Posts: 1699 | Location: San Antonio, TX | Registered: 14 April 2004
Just a silly question for anyone who has done this conversion.
Is it a good idea to use a bolt that has already been damaged like this for such a conversion?
Even if I was a fan of Sako conversions (which I’m not) I would be really nervous about doing one on a bolt face that had already been stressed enough to have steel sheared off of it like that...even if I was using a bushing.
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005
Originally posted by Rick 0311: Just a silly question for anyone who has done this conversion.
Is it a good idea to use a bolt that has already been damaged like this for such a conversion?
Even if I was a fan of Sako conversions (which I’m not) I would be really nervous about doing one on a bolt face that had already been stressed enough to have steel sheared off of it like that...even if I was using a bushing.
I have done several conversions on Remington bolt's with this exact same damage. It makes the need for bushing the bolt face that much more plausible.
This type of damage has no effect on the strength or integrity of the bolt's safety. The thin lip broke out because of an expanded or jammed round. This bolt is the "Perfect" candidate for the Sako conversion.
You know, I noticed the boltface looked not quite right in that pic. I have never seen a boltface that jacked up before.
Just out of curiosity, why would one NOT want to get the Sako installed? It looks to me like the claw would not wear out as fast as the Rem extractor cause it is spring loaded. But then again too, I am sure somebody's argument would be the spring mechanisim would be another part to break. Kinda sounds more or less like I would be no closer to the front door, just standing in the neighbor's yard so to speak.
Master, thank you for the offer, but I have already purchased the Sako. Next Thursday the rifle goes to the smith for install, along with my Wife's rifle for some tweaking.
Originally posted by gixxer: Just out of curiosity, why would one NOT want to get the Sako installed? It looks to me like the claw would not wear out as fast as the Rem extractor cause it is spring loaded. But then again too, I am sure somebody's argument would be the spring mechanisim would be another part to break. Kinda sounds more or less like I would be no closer to the front door, just standing in the neighbor's yard so to speak.
The standard rule goes something like this: The more parts there are, the more that can go wrong. The Remington factory extractor is it's own spring and generally a reliable one at that. With the Sako, the extractor, spring and the plunger are separate pieces and this type of extractor rely's on each piece not failing.
Also, with a spring and plunger type extractor, the potential for something to become lodged in the springs hole, is a concern. Both types have their strengths and weaknesses. I like the fact that the Remington bolt is as easily adaptable as it is for the implementation of a different style of extractor system should something happen like in the photo above.
Normally the owner of such a bolt would be shit out of luck and would have to send the entire gun back to the manufacturer for a replacement bolt, but because it is a Remington bolt, the problem can be solved rather easily.
Without attempting to beat this dead horse any more...it should also be pointed out that the Remington gas venting system was not at all designed for a Sako style extractor.
On the oft chance of catastrophic event in the chamber the gas will go right for the path of least resistance...and in the case of a Sako extractor, the slot cut into the bolt nose is that path. And a very vulnerable portion of your anatomy is directly in that path also.
Just something to consider when contemplating such a conversion.
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005
Originally posted by Rick 0311: Without attempting to beat this dead horse any more...it should also be pointed out that the Remington gas venting system was not at all designed for a Sako style extractor.
On the oft chance of catastrophic event in the chamber the gas will go right for the path of least resistance...and in the case of a Sako extractor, the slot cut into the bolt nose is that path. And a very vulnerable portion of your anatomy is directly in that path also.
Just something to consider when contemplating such a conversion.
FYI...Midway carries after market 700 bolt bodies that are already machined for a Sako extractor. All you have to do is install a handle, ejector, and the Sako extractor, and check/adjust the headspace. These bodies don’t need to be bushed since there is no Remington extractor groove milled into them.
I’m not a fan of the conversion, but if I was to ever to do it I would go that way rather than jury-rig (sorry guys, but that’s the most polite phrase I could come up with) a factory Remington bolt. It doesn’t address the gas venting problem, but I believe it would be much stronger than a modified Remington bolt that had already sustained some damage to the bolt head and required a bushing to fill in the extractor groove and reinforce the counter sink.
Just my opinion.
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005
OK, just kidding. 
