I am now in possession of a Martini Cadet action. Action only, nothing else.

I am in need of some ideas on barreling/chambering, preferably from folks that shoot these in something other than the original form.

I am currently leaning toward something in the .25 or .30 caliber maybe based on the .357 Maximum brass. Kind of concerned about going to .30 WCF size because of the MC's small barrel shank diameter.

Thanks

Dave, the .30-30 Wesson was a well-regarded schuetzen era cartridge. It is formed from .357 Maximum brass in a single pass into the full-length sizing die from CH-4D. I had planned to build one years ago, and even bought the die set, which I later sold to the engraver Ken Hurst.
Check the CPA Corp. stock pages; you may find schuetzen wood available if it interests you.
Here's a schuetzened BSA .22 using CPA stuff.

I was looking at the .30-30 Wesson. Has a good reputation for accuracy. I came across a note that said Wesson introduced the .30-40 Wesson as a product improvement. Doesn't seem to perform much better from what I read, is bottle necked and also formed from .357 Max brass.

I will look into the furniture for sure. Very nice looking rifle.

If it was mine, I'd be looking for a good .218 Bee reamer.

A friend had one in 222 rimmed. With some of the newer powders like CFE 223, velocities are quite amazing at the 222's relatively low pressure. I've seen a cadet made into a 223 with a custom made extractor. No problems at all. I would personaly like to have a "thick side" rim-fire action converted to center-fire, and barrel it to 221 Fireball. I'd also love an elegant fancy stock and color case hardened action. Other cool calibers I like for cadet martini's are the 17-357, 17 ackley hornet, and 22 k-hornet. I saw one at the range, one time, in 357 Maximum! Starline is making maximum brass now.

This is my little Martini in 30-30 Wesson. I form cases from 222 rimmed, they are easier to get here in Australia than 357 Maximum, and they are also longer, 357 Max brass is a bit short to make proper 30-30 Wesson cases.
Has a tapered octagonal barrel and a quilted maple stock from Treebone.

I have a 22-K Hornet and a .218 Bee on Cadet actions

Based on several factors a .30 caliber is my choice. I plan on using one of the .38/.357/.357 Max cases. Readily available brass and inexpensive drove that train. My question now is: in each of those 3 cases there probably is one that can be formed and loaded with 7.62x25 or similar dies. Again looking at inexpensive, not $90 custom dies.

I know the little .38 wildcat mentioned above is one. Does any one know what cartridge is formed that way from .357 Mag/.357 Max brass?

one thing to keep in mind - if you are going to scope the rifle the scope will ride over the top of the action. this makes loading/unloading a bit difficult with things like 30/30 case sizes. Things like my donaldson wasp or improved zipper made from 30/30 brass are no rapid reloaders for sure. Smaller case sizes just fit the cadet actions better

H&H, that's a handsome rifle you have there. George at Treebone makes some nice stocks.

Just recalled a friend in Australia has a cadet chambered in 30-30/375 which is the 30-30 case necked up to take 9mm pistol projectiles. Works exceptionally well on goats anyway.

I build mine into a 7-30 Waters 7mm on a 30-30 case. The case size does make for slow reloads but then shooting a single shot you should only need one shot
I found it to be a very accurate cartridge with 120g bullets.

....if the bore of the original barrels still OK, how about something like a 32 Herrett (32 cal. in 30 Herrett case... or 8mm Herrett )or the 32 ( .311 / .312 ) in a 357 max ??

Roger

I love the .32s, unfortunately there is only the action. Stock and barrel are probably long gone.

I keep thinking I'll do one of my cadet actions in 30 herret, but still thinking not doing!
The right side of the receiver can be lowered a bit to help with loading a long-ish cartridge. I have a .225 win made with 30-30 brass cadet that way, and it helps a tiny bit.

I've always thought a 38 special/357 would be a lot of fun, especially in a stalking rifle configuration.
Best.

quote:

Originally posted by drhall762:
Based on several factors a .30 caliber is my choice.

I see this but I wonder if you have considered the .327 Federal Magnum. It is .312 caliber, only .004" larger than a .308 caliber. Factory ammunition is available. You wouldn't need to form and then fire-form cases. Henry just added .327 Federal rifles to their offerings. The cartridge seems a natural for the Cadet rifle.

Here's a 17AB that was built by Lou Williamson, of Knight's Gunshop Ft. Worth, Texas. It's circa 1968, with a 20 inch Shilen #1 or #2 contour barrel.

Lou used a unique forend treatment.

My close friend left me the rifle.

Kevin

One sharp looking Martini!

I have owned cadets in 22 Hornet and K Hornet, 218 Bee, 310, 357 and 32 Special. I would opt for 30/30 and never scope it. Many of mine had Martini tang sights. One had a Lyman Small Martini aperture sight on the receiver and I like that sight best. A Lyman 17A front sight with a post insert is my favorite.

I have or have had them in .22 Long Rifle, .218 Bee, 7-30 Waters, .310 Greener, and .32-20. My brother has one in .223 and a friend has one in .256 Winchester. My favorites are .218 Bee and .7-30 Waters. I am currently doing another one in .218 Bee.

Here is a pic of mine own thick wall action in a special made 20 cal. I like the smaller caliber cartridges and this one is made on the 223 case. This is a project on my USB drive and with some more Martini custom rifle. Here is a shell that I reduced the pressure on the loads down to where it would extract very easily. I think that the fps is around 3600 fts with most of the reloads. Notice that the base is made to take Control Scope rings. I make the base than drill and tap the barrel. Line up the barreled action in a mill and make the final cuts to make sure of the height is the correct bore alignment. I make the safety to block the trigger so the action can be unloaded if you need to change shells. The rimless extractor can be the hardest part to make and get it to work properly. Over the yrs I have made 17 Ack. Bee, 17 Rem., 5.56 MM , and would go with a rimmed case if I was making another one.

I made all the tools necessary to make this rifle. Reamers, headspace gauges, forming dies, tools for changing from rim fire to center fire, butt stock to fit me for a scope, just some of the things need to make a fine custom Martini

I do not except rifles for any work as I am retired now. I need to start shooting this rifle more as I now have a Leo. 3X9 that needs to be sighted in for 1 in. high @100 yds.

Les, you built a wonderful rifle there, and the wood is simply magnificent!

Here is the butt end. I made the plates and engraved it so it is a little different. Notice the center stock screw hole is slotted so you can take the stock off without removing a butt plate or recoil pad. I don't remember the size of the threaded hole.

I have a different idea on the sight base setup.



The barrel is fitted up and then the side is machined down to the receiver size. I make a dovetail base to fit on a 60 % cut to match the top of the barrel for about 2 inches long. Two 1/4 X 20 set screw are fitted down on to the dovetail on the barrel. This makes a nice set up for a different rifle.

Some of what I was looking at was dollars. When I compare my two primary choices, the .327 Fed Mag and the .30-30 Wesson it works out to be a break-even proposition. Maybe favors the .30-30 Wesson a bit actually.

I have a good .30 caliber barrel and it will stabilize the heavier bullets of the .30-30 Wesson. A two die reloading set from CH4D for the .30-30 Wesson is only $87.36. Brass is easily made by running .357 Maximum brass through the resizing die.

The difference in cost between buying dies and buying a new .32 caliber barrel should cover my new .357 Maximum cases.

I think considering the fine reputation and the other factors I listed the .30-30 Wesson is the winner.

Lovely rifle, Les. Could you post additional photos of the foreend, as I am looking for ideas for the one I am building. Also, I love your treatment for the scope mount.

Now that IS lovely!

quote:

Originally posted by LesBrooks:

I have a really neat little Greener Club .22 Martini that someone put a lead cylinder in the stock! I figure I only have about six more hours of scraping and chipping that lead so I can tighten the stock...

Boomer,
Maybe this will help

Thank you, Les.

I found my tools that I have used in converting Martini actions
and I will have to explain each tool. If anyone wants to hear more.

Hi Les. Please explain and THANK YOU!

Dave, I think you'll be pleased with the .30-30 Wesson. Les, I want to hear as well. You seem to really know your Martinis!

I will try to get the info posted soon. My PC crashed where the pictures were stored.

Martini action tools:
I started working on Martini actions in 1961 and have some suggestions on tools shown in the above picture. I was taught to weld the breech block up and make a smaller firing pin hole using O/A and high strength welding rod. After the hole is filled up and rough down leaving at least .010 metal to clean up later. Tool #1 is a harden punch and it is the diameter of the firing pin body hole. Punch from the rear to get a base hole location only. #2 is a 1/4 in. center drill on one end with the diameter the same as tool #1. Just use this center drill to get a small spot so the small drill in the other end can get the hole drilled at .050 dia. Go slow or you can break the drill. #3 is the taper reamer made from 1/8 in. drill and hardened. Now ream the firing pin hole out to .058 dia. I have found the firing pin tip end breaks off and by making a tapered hole and a firing pin to match helps this problem. The final pin dia. of .060 works fine with the taper. #4 tool is to mill the face of the breech block after you have the location of the firing pin hole set up in the receiver with hole location with the small end of the tool tip. I usually lower the breech down when converting a .22lr to center fire. I grind the lever down to allow the center hole to line up with the barrel stub punch. If you have the location then use the milling cutter to square up the bolt face to the barrel stub.

Use these tools as a guide for your own rifle and be careful. Use this information at your own risk !!

Hi- I just went thru the same thing. I got a heavy 17 cal barrel from PacNor; the 1" shaft dia wasn't a problem for them. I had a local guy thread and chamber to 17 Hornet, and I think it's going to work out well as a sage rat rifle.

If you just want a shooter, I have the old barrel in 357 mag, and the stocks. If you're interested, PM me at jerry@jerrymontgomery.org.

quote:

Originally posted by Rolland:
I build mine into a 7-30 Waters 7mm on a 30-30 case. The case size does make for slow reloads but then shooting a single shot you should only need one shot
I found it to be a very accurate cartridge with 120g bullets.

I have posted these before. My 7-30 Waters, and I also use 120-grain Ballistic Tips.

......not to hi-jack this thread, but has anyone done a 6.5x30-30 Imp. ( 6.5 Bulberry or by what ever name you choose ) on a martini ?

Roger

Jerry, you have a message at the above address. given. GW