Hi all. I'm looking at a possible trade for a Ruger No. 1 Tropical stainless/laminate in 458 Lott. Does the Ruger suffer from any extraction/ejection issues with non-rimmed cartridges?

Thanks,

Hizzie

Only if the empty case hangs up on the safety lever. This "problem" has been thoroughly discussed on this board and others.

Link;
http://forums.accuratereloadin...9421043/m/2941055231

I've been shooting rimmed and rimless cartridges from #1s since 1988 and have never had one to fail to extract/eject.

I have a couple no.1s no trouble here for the last 30 plus years

The Ruger offers an option of either extraction or ejection. You just need to make the adjustments. The extraction/ejection feature has never failed for me.

Absolutely no issues with mine, in 375 H&H.


Mad Dog

Had the same rifle you refer to and no problems.
Very good friend of mine wanted it and sold it to him and he shoots it more than I did and likes it very much. If you remove forearm you will quickly see how the system works and it's quite simple yet effective.

I've got the exact same rifle, the shells come out easily and cleanly. Granted, I'm not cranking up max loads, but when I shoot it at the bench, I lower the lever, tilt the rifle back, and the shell slides right out. If there is any "issue" it will be with the longer Lott brass hanging up on the tang safety, but so far no issues with the extractor itself.

Go ahead and budget in a Limbsaver butt pad. The recoil will knock you out of your boots with the 500gr elephant killers.

I too think Ruger does this on purpose. I got a new Browning single shot not long ago, and they do it too, with a separate piece. Theirs is adjustable. I have number of Rugers going back to the early 70's and they have always done it. In the thread referenced above, it was opined that it may be to keep hot brass from hitting you in the eye. I suspect that a worse problem may come from loaded ammo. You can adjust the ejector to reaally whip them out. A loaded round, which is a loose fit in the chamber could really whack your eye, given its weight.

I have never done it, but I think the ideal solution would be to shorten the safety and add some sort of deflector ( a la the Browning) to throw the case to your peferred side.

Incidentally, the center position of the browning is intended to catch the shell, since their ejector is not adjustable.

Thank you gents. I was concerned that the lack of a rim would pose the same issues it does in a DR.

If you roll the rifle to the right as you open it the case will eject and fall out.
The 45-70 has a huge rim and it will bounce back unless you trip the rifle to the right.

I took the tip off the safety on my #1H in 458 win mag for dangerous game but have left all my other #1's as is including 45-70.As previously mentioned if you roll the gun to the right on ejection it works every time.

The early Ruger #1-H had a safety button that is shorter than the
current ones. With rimmed cartridges, they tend to get caught by the top edge of the safety and bounce back. Rim-less cartrideges don't seem to have the problem Take a quarter inch
off the front of the safety but not so much as you expose the slot in the rifle tang as it will become a dirt trap. The practice of rolling
the gun to the right works (Rugers suggestion) but is not practical
in a "high profile" dangerous game encounter where you need positive ejection for a rapid reload. ie. big bears, buffalo or elephant

Good shooting,

Tetonka
DRSS 450/400 NE 3" K-gun
Ruger #1-Hs in 375 H&H, 405 Win, 450/400 NE 3in.

Tetonka: I have a No. 1 in .450-400, and one of the .45-70s with 26-inch barrel coming. I'd love to see a photo of your shortened safety.

I've had several R#1's over the years and just took the safety button off, ground down the front extension about that much, reshaped it a bit, and also tapered the front of the "bump" a bit. Had it blued it along with another barrel.

Someone published an article in one of the Gun Digest books WAY back when which prompted me to do it...

I never had a problem with ejection on any of my R#1's unless I got too high on the pressure end and none of my cals were large rimmed or long enough to cause trouble anyway...just did it because is seemed a good thing.

The same author published several articles on how to "accurize" the R#1 also...and ALL of his methods worked great.

Luck

Bill/Oregon
Sorry, I don't have the skills to post pictures, will try to get some
help with this and put the 3 rifles side by side. 375 H&H old gun
with short safety, 405 Win and 450/400 new guns with long
safeties/ now shortend and tapered by approx. 1/4 inch.
Post from FOOBAR seems like he did the same thing I had to do.
May take a couple of days to get pics. up need help from family
member.

Good Shooting

Tetonka
DRSS

Tetonka: Look forward to seeing your photos.

Bill/Oregon
Hope these pictures explain. The gun with the blue breechblock is
an older 375 H&H (serial number 131- about 30 years old) then a newer 405Win and a 450/400. Note
all safeties are in the OFF or Fire position. The 375 safety only
extends to the base of the feed ramp. The other guns extended
way up into the feed ramp, then after firing they would catch the
rim of the shell with the gun horizontal. Raising the barrel or a sharp twist to the right would dump the shell but this doesn't work
in rapid reloading practice for DG. The newer guns have had the
safeties bobbed off so the shells dont hang up. Suggestion: on
your guns, open the actions and run your thumb or finger down the
feed ramp as if it were an ejected shell. If you feel any projection of the safety, bob it off. My gunsmith charged me $25 to do two guns.

Good Shooting
Tetonka
DRSS

Tetonka: Thanks. Will bob!

Hey Tetonka, is that a NECG sight on the middle rifle? Did you have to change out your front blade? Any issues?

JCS271,

Yes you are correct, the gun in the middle is a 405 Win. with the
NEGC Ruger rear peep sight. (Cost $85.00 at the time I bought
it) Comes with 2 disc apertures, or you take the disc out and
you have a gohst ring. I did replace the front sight with a white
ivory bead. Don't remember the size I think it is 3/32. Took out
the ruger sight and measured it with caliper and ordered the same
height, no problems. The sight is readily removable and I can
install a Trijicon 1.24X4 in QD rings on any of the 3 guns. This is
the clearest, lightest weight DG scope I have found. I like the amber post
and my wife prefers the amber German #4 reticle

Hope this helps,
Good Shooting

Tetonka
DRSS

I have a JDJ conversion to .577 Nitro Express. With the rifle held horizontal a "snap cap" (I dont have any live rounds yet), it DOES hit the small part of the safety that extends into the "feedway". However and I think much more relevant, when the action is opened with the rifle at an angle (as in the position after recoil) it ejects "just fine".

Ive been practicing this method:

Shoot

With rifle raised from recoil-eject spent case

Lower rifle

Load from spare cartridge held between ring and pinky finger

Close action

Shoot.



It works fast and flows smoothly with "snap caps". Once my ammo arrives full power loads will be tested.

Edelweiss, the problem that I had with my factory stock Boddington edition in .450NE is that the case hits the front edge of the safety BEFORE the front edge of the case can clear the chamber (it is 3 1/4 by the way). This essentially trapped the case, I dremeled the front edge of the safety and all is well. I now LOVE the rifle!

JCS: Did you remove the safety from the rifle prior to the Dremel surgery? Is it hard to remove? I need to do this on my .450-400.

Bill, I left it in place and just placed a heavy piece of duct tape under the edge of the safety so that I would not nick the gun then used one of the little cutting discs to remove the tip. Just bear in mind that the hole in the receiver for the safety to move in is pretty big and MAY be slightly exposed after the surgery so go slow!