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Ruger #1 free float or full glassbed
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posted
I was ready all the entries on Ruger #1's and I noticed everyone seems to recomend free floating the barrel. I just used brownells to bed the length of the barrel and from what I've shot the rifle it shots great. I haven't shot the rifle in extreme temperatures or excess humidity. What does everyone else think? I don't shoot more than a few rounds at a time so barrel heat isn't really an issue. Are my bullets going to wander from my original zero in extreme circumstances.

Any info would be appreciated.
 
Posts: 16 | Location: Vancouver, WA | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
<John Lewis>
posted
After working on a couple hundred #1s, I've found floating to work best most of the time. But remember, there are no absolutes. Bedding the whole forearm might work best on some rifles. I've just had more consistent results with the floating.
 
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Free floating the barrel on a #1 is a thousand times easier than glass bedding it. So it's the first thing to try.

Just make a spacer out of a carved up plastic faucet washer and put it between the hangar and forend. Such a rig stays sighted in also.
 
Posts: 5543 | Registered: 09 December 2002Reply With Quote
<Multi Vis>
posted
It would seem that either method will work when done correctly. I have just gotten thru floating the forearm on a No.1V in 22/250 and drilling and tapping the forearm hanger for a tension screw and finally had to bed a small spot of the forearm to the barrel at the front end of the forearm. It went from shooting 4 to 5 moa to shooting groups in the moa or smaller range. I mainly used a piece written in Rifle magazine No.191 by Ross Seyfried about tuning the No.1 and he has used both methods - floating and full bedding - and has had good results with both so either can work. I wouldnt think you will have any problems with it shifting from weather changes. How did the rifle shoot before the bedding?::::::Multi Vis
 
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Multi Vis

Before I Bedded the rifle it had a different barrel. It was after I rebarreled it that I bedded it because I noticed a little uneven pressure on the forestock. It shot well with the other barrel, but shoots better now than ever. Both this barrel and the previous one were high quality barrels.
 
Posts: 16 | Location: Vancouver, WA | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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My 416 Rigby Ruger No. 1 would print a one ragged hole at 50 yard out of the factory box without any modification. Of course, it has a very heavy barrel compared to other smaller chamberings. If it shoots good, it is a waste of time and energy to do anything to the forearm, whether bedding or floating. Good luck.
 
Posts: 1002 | Location: Midwest USA | Registered: 01 September 2001Reply With Quote
<eldeguello>
posted
No. 1's are often pretty sensitive to changes in pressures between the forend, forend hanger, and barrel. Mostly, the effect of such changes is to make the rifle shoot higher or lower. One example of such an effect can be observed if one shoots with the aid of a sling. Just use a loose sling, then a tight sling, both from prone, and I guarantee you will have two distinct groups! When I zero my No.1's, I put my left hand on the sandbag rest, then grip the rifle as close to the same as if I were firing from a field position as possible, so that upward pressure on the forend will not be different when shooting from a bench.

[ 01-11-2003, 20:13: Message edited by: eldeguello ]
 
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<RVB>
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Check out this web page www.rvbprecision.com
 
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Hey thanks for all the info. I checked the other websight sugested by RVB and one it led me to and I got some new ideas for my #1.

Thanks

M Watkins
 
Posts: 16 | Location: Vancouver, WA | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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