This is my first attempt at actually assembling a rifle and making a stock. It started as a #3 in .22 Hornet. I rebarreled it to .223 and made the stock from an old two piece blank. Rebent the lever to work with the pistolgrip.
Checkering by Mark Stratton and he refastened the forearm. 4 x 14 Simmons.



Shoots very well and has accounted for lots of Sage Rats and a couple of 'Yotes.

All I can think of is absolutely beautiful. I have a #1-B in 257 Rbts. that I would give my eye teeth if it looked as prestigious as yours. It looks like you are indeed gifted. What is the weight w/o scope and is it a factory conture barrel?

Second Outlawsix. Lets hear and see more.

Great looking wood and finish!http://www.serveroptions.com/ubb/icons/icon7.gif
Icon 7

How about a few details.

Darn nice rifle! This is what the #3s should have been.

Very, very nice.

This is outstanding!!! Nice wood, well done!! My idea is a gun built about the same as yours, but with the lever altered into a concave shape with a small knob on the end, inletted into the front face of the pistol grip, and the knob inlet into the front face of the grip cap, a'la Martini!! My No. 3 is a very accurate .30/40. I would leave the caliber unchanged.

I've never given two-craps for the No.3, but if they had looked like this one I would have no problem putting it next to my No. 1s. Wait a minute, yes I would, it would make my No. 1s look bad

Thanks for all the comments. I think it looks great also but I like to hear it too.

I had reshaped a couple stocks and finished a couple of stocks from a duplicator before and I can rechecker if I try but starting from scratch was a whole new deal. I used a saber saw, a couple of woodworker chisels, a plane and alot of elbow grease. I watched DJ Thys do a stock for a double rifle once. From blank to ready to checker and finish in 3 days.

My next deal is to get some engraving on it. Any suggestions?

Some more details. It has a pancake cheekpiece on the other side. It used to have a Leupold 2.5 x 8 but I was given this scope so tried it and other than having to be lined up right behind it I like it.

It took me two years off and on to get the shape I wanted as I didn't know what I wanted until I got it.

I switched to the .223 because I shoot Black Hills in my Sako and at $125/m it is cheap to shoot.

Usually shoots under .75" at 100 yds.

Outlawsix: It weighs 7 1/2lbs and it is a stock Ruger Barrel. About 3000 rounds through it so when I need to change it I might buy a custom barrel.

eldequello: That does sound neat. It wouldn't be that hard to make up a new lever in that shape. Would it extend past the pistol grip a bit? A friend makes animal heads on bolt knobs. Maybe a wolf head on the knob?

Great job!

If you're looking for an engraver whay not give Ken Hurst a call at 252-795-6670 or email at hursteng@beachlink.com

This chap is a 'master' with about 40 years experience. Used to run the engraving business in Colt's custom shop and has done work for Bill Ruger, Winchester, Walther, TC and a whole bunch of others. Really top drawer craftsman.

Some samples of his work is located at http://www.singleshotrifles.com/kenhurst.htm

Custom engraving will really set that rifle on the TOP!

jeff

Nice looking lumber. What type of wood is it?

I believe it is Claro but I won't bet any money on it. I had it laying around for about fifteen years. An old gunsmith named Bill English had it and I bought it from his estate along with about 30 other nice pieces of wood and a couple of rifles.

That is one beautiful piece of wood!
Great job and certainly something to be PROUD of!
LouisB

wow. that's a seriously nice piece . excuse me now, the drool is starting to affect the keyboard...

[ 11-17-2002, 23:10: Message edited by: Curtis_Lemay ]

Be REALLY careful about the engraving. I consulted heavily with the owner of Engraving Arts www.engravingarts.com about a project I had planned and he told me the No 1 action is very difficult in engrave properly. I was prepared to spend about $3K and he, very nicely, told me he could not do the quality of work that I wanted on the No. 1 action and he would not do substandard work at any price. The action is just too damned hard and if you want really quality work, which I hope you do, then the action must be annealed to soften it, then re-heat treated to harden it after engraving which runs the cost through the roof. There are lots of engravers who will do it, but from what I was told the engraving will not cut, but will be torn from the metal and if you look at the work closely it really shows. Go to this guys web sight and look at his work. I have never seen any work any better at any price and the guy is a real gentleman to talk to. Go slowly on this and don't let someone sell you a bill of sale and then screw up your beautiful rifle. If you look at a lot of engraving, it may look nice but when you blow it up and see the details, like under a glass, the quality falls apart. This guys work only gets better the larger and more detailed you get. He suggested I stick with minor engraving on the barrel and trigger guard, but to stay away from the action. Talk to him as he is able to advise you much better than I. Good luck.

[ 11-21-2002, 22:13: Message edited by: Big Bore ]

I got the same advice from Barry Lee Hands regarding the #1. Skip it.

I suggest something subtle, like gold or silver wire inlay around the border and top of the action.

George

Gator, the knob would extend below the pistol grip cap a little, but not enough to catch on things. Just enough to get the tip of your thumb under it enough to start to unlock it.