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Ruger No. 1 virgin ???
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I can pick up a Ruger #1 in 375 H&H for a reasonable price. I like the rifle for numerous reasons but I understand that there are several tweaks that need to be done to most of these rifles in order for them to give consistent accuracy. Any suggests? Also are there folks specializing in No 1 work?

Mark


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Posts: 13091 | Location: LAS VEGAS, NV USA | Registered: 04 August 2002Reply With Quote
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Mark:

There is one trick you can do that often helps. If you remove the forearm you will see how the whole thing is attached. Try using a washer (or two, but one thick one is better) to float the barrel away from the forearm. That worked really well for .204 Ruger No.1 that I own. Of course, the advantage of a No.1 is that you don't have to worry about cartridge OAL and can consequently seat the bullets out as far as you need to to obtain good accuracy.


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Posts: 7581 | Location: Arizona and off grid in CO | Registered: 28 July 2004Reply With Quote
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Mark

I have had 2 No1's, both with the Alex Henry style fore end.
A 243 and a 45/70.

The 243 was a little finiky, but once I found the loads it liked it was a great shooter.

The 45/70 shot like a Snier Rifle with nearly everything. I did not have to do anything to either one of them.


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Posts: 16134 | Location: Texas | Registered: 06 April 2002Reply With Quote
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I've had several over the years, all .40 caliber and up and have never had to do anything to any of them. I did have the 1st one (45-70) re-barreled to .300 win mag and custom re-stocked.......but I didnt have to.


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Posts: 1172 | Location: Pamplico, SC USA | Registered: 24 August 2005Reply With Quote
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Methinks I would just shoot it first. Some shoot dan good right out of the box. My #1 in .375 H&H never needed a thing done to it other than getting a decent recoil pad. Come to think of it, I still have that to do. coffee
Ruger really screwed up on their big bore and hard kicking guns by not putting a proper pad on them. You'll feel it when you shoot it, but if you think it's bad, try one in .416 Rigby. Still that skinny piece of rubber rather than a proper pad. What was Ruger thinking? My second suggstion is pull the wood off the gun and seal every bit of raw wood that shows. I don't think Ruger even bothers to seal in internal wood at all.
Now, if you think I don't like Ruger #1 rifes, guess again. I have 22 so far and am always looking out for #23 should the price be right. I have them running from .22 Hornet to .416 Rigby for whatever that's worth.
The ones that usually have accuracy problems are the ones where Ruger bought contract barrel. Some were great, some average and some just plain shitty. My #1A in 7x57 was one of the latter. Even though I bought it second hand, Ruger did eplace the barrel and they even refinished the gun, wood and metal. Now it's a good shooter.
The #1S in .375 H&H is just heavy enough with a scope that recoil is tolerable, even off the bench although I usually quit after ten rounds of full power stuff.
A pleasant handload though is 49.0 gr. of either H-4895 or IMR-4895 with the RCBS 37-250-FN cast bullet. Try sized to .378" with and without a tuft of dacron to hold the powder against the primer. Velocity is an estimated 1900 + or - FPS and recoil is about like a .308 or 30-06. A neat fun load and is accurate in my rifle. Makes for a great practice load for rapid reloading BTW.
Paul B.
 
Posts: 2814 | Location: Tucson AZ USA | Registered: 11 May 2001Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Paul B:
Methinks I would just shoot it first. Some shoot dan good right out of the box.
Paul B.


1+

Assuming a good barrel,correct chambering & headspace out of the box, it's all in the fore arm fitment. That, & the right load.

There are correct barrel / receiver contact points, clearance points, & a barrel pressure point. The guys in the service dept. - well at least ONE of them, know how to do it.

No floating, epoxy bedding, or tensioning devices should be required. For what ever reason, they just don't always get it right - before shipping a new rifle.

No slam on the oldies, but the new production rifles are first rate. I'd suggest load developement before even considering any modifications.

In fact, if a new No.1 won't shoot sub-inch groups at 100 (w/ appropriate load developement), send it back to Ruger, w/ a diplomatic / descriptive note to the CEO, & I'd be will to bet lunch, that they send you back a real shooter.


Regards - GCF
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Posts: 291 | Location: Corpus Christi, TX | Registered: 01 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Mark,
have only owned two Ruger #1's. First was a 300 win mag that shot "lights out" after the washer trick mentioned above. I just picked up a Tropical Stainless laminate #1 in 458 lott. Am going to do some target practice at the range tomorrow. If you ar getting it at a good price, I wouldn't hesitiate, as you can always blow it out at GunBroker if you decide you don't like it.
GWB
 
Posts: 23752 | Location: Pearland, Tx,, USA | Registered: 10 September 2001Reply With Quote
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