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Work in progress, Rigby
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I do not want to upstage Mr Weibe here, he is much to talented for me to try and duplicate his work; just thought it might entice someone to look at how I do it. I use the milling machine to rough mill the stock to the width depth and rough profile of the barrel channel to keep things straight.
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Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5521 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks Jim for showing your work. Please tell us more about the barrel and action.
 
Posts: 1292 | Location: N.J | Registered: 16 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Looks good Mr. Kobe! Show us more pics as you go along.
Butch
 
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Thanks Jim. Looking forward to the next installment.



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Posts: 8350 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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I love these "work in progress" threads. Keep the updates coming Jim.

Jeff
 
Posts: 603 | Location: Louisiana USA | Registered: 24 August 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by J_Zola:
Thanks Jim for showing your work. Please tell us more about the barrel and action.


The barreled action is the last, I believe, action that Pete Noreen did before he let his manufacaturing go to Hein. He did the integral barre and rib also.

The pictures show the roughing out of the action and barrel channel and then after a short time the inletting of action into the stock. I don't have a CNC mill so most has to be done using my DRO. I definitly saves a lot of time. I do the bottom metal first.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5521 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Gotta luv that fiddle back Big Grin

You gonna use that stock for application to the guild?


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Posts: 1860 | Location: Western South Dakota | Registered: 05 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Jim thanks for posting pictures of your work.

I don't think we can see to many of these fine examples on the gunsmithing forum
 
Posts: 1361 | Location: Houston, Texas | Registered: 07 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Jim: Great work...love to see the use of the mill...very precise,,,kinda make me wonder why more guys don't do it this way...more sense than invseting a $15000.00 duplicaor that can do only one thing....then you have to make a pattern in the first place! Keep us up to date!
 
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Originally posted by MHC_TX:
Jim thanks for posting pictures of your work.

I don't think we can see to many of these fine examples on the gunsmithing forum


+1

If it weren't for threads like this, I'd just be hanging out in the Political Forum with the other knuckleheads.

Nice work. Now you're committed to keep us posted through to the end of this project.


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Posts: 5052 | Location: Muletown | Registered: 07 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Jim,

I'm also glad to see that you practice proper dental hygiene while inletting the stocks. Smiler
 
Posts: 306 | Location: Originally from Texas | Registered: 17 March 2001Reply With Quote
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If that reference is to the toothbrush, I use them for cleaning stuff, if the floss, I also use that for cleaning and sometimes for stiching up large gashes from sharp chisels, who's go time or money to go visit a doctor


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
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I am curious as to how many different cutters you use to cut the mortises, and what the starting point is.
 
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A few more pictures if anyone is interested. They are after the final inlet to depth with bottom metal in, bolt cutout, trigger and bolt release cutout done, magazine box fitted and just trying to figure out what to do with the "flat" tang, I think it looks funky.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
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quote:
Originally posted by 22WRF:
I am curious as to how many different cutters you use to cut the mortises, and what the starting point is.

I start with a large fly cutter and square up the blank, making sure it is flat and the sides are parallel. All of my measurements are taken off the center of the blank. Drill the guard screw holes first and use the forward hole as the "zero" on the DRO. Next is the 1/2" endmill to cut the outline of the flat on the bottom sides of the receiver to depth and the rear tang. I normally cut a groove in the forend for the barrel channel to just under the diameter of the barrel at the tip and the breech section of it just forward of the action. This is done with a ball endmill. The recoil lug recess is cut with a long 1/4" endmill to correct depth, width and thickness. WHen inletting after this, a series of flat chisels and gouges to cut the corners left by the round endmills and to remove the material that doesn't look to be "part of the stock"


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5521 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Great thread....thanks Jim


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Thanks for sharing. Did rem721 do the metal work? Big Grin Please update as you go.


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Posts: 6205 | Location: Cascade, MT | Registered: 12 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Going to put in the cross bolts next. Standby.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
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Keep them coming.
 
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The following are of the cross bolt install. I use 5/16 threaded rod with c'sunk washers and 10-32 flat head allen screws and glassed into place with ebony caps for covers.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5521 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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That's a lotta wood.

Very nice.

Rich
 
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Nice work Jim. Keep the pictures coming.
 
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A few more pictures if anyone is interested.


Heck yeah, Jim. Keep 'em coming!

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Posts: 140 | Location: Southern Kalistan | Registered: 25 November 2007Reply With Quote
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Today I start on the grip cap, butt plate and sling swivel inlet. Standby and thanks for the interest.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
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Great stuff! beer
 
Posts: 3785 | Location: B.C. Canada | Registered: 08 November 2005Reply With Quote
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These next progress photos are of the bottom line on the stock, the inlet for the sling swivel stud, the grip cap and the butt plate.

A steel buttplate for a Rigby, you ask? That's what he wanted; it will be engraved.
\
The screw on the buttplate are not oriented, yet. They will be on the final tightening.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
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I have never seen that type of grip cap before. Nice!! Who makes that?
 
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That steel butt plate is making my shoulder hurt and I'm just looking at it!
 
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Neat use of the mill. Do you inlet the buttplate by hand or machine it before the glass is used?


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Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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I only use the band saw, I do not have a CNC that I can program. The grip cap was sent along with the buttplate and Ebony tip.

The butt plate was indeed the longeste to fit. You start with the band sawed butt and start to inlet from there. There is glass there, but only to seal the butt, it is fitted tight, the glass makes it better. You can look right through the glass and see the wood under it. I think it took me a bunch of time. If you noticed, there is a bit of cast off in the butt, I like to put a bit there, usually about 3/8 to 1/2 to shift the but over left or right, depending on the shooter, to keep the head more erect and recoil away from the face.

Hopefully, tomorrow I will start on the external shaping and provide some more pics. I just got back from a trip up to Ely (up north a bunch) on a golf trip. Can't hit the ball worth a shit.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5521 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the reply, and all the pictures...

I know sharp tools are worth there weight in gold but i think one would have to have big golf balls to inlet sling studs this way. I guess you can have wood chip out doing it by hand also!

Nice mill/stock work!!!


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Great thread. Great photos too.
 
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Great looking work Jim!
 
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BTT for more pictures and updates!!

clap
 
Posts: 140 | Location: Southern Kalistan | Registered: 25 November 2007Reply With Quote
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I got in some barrels that I had ordered about 4/1 and had to get those done and some other stuff. Thanks for the interest and will be back shortly with more stuff.

Jim


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5521 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Nice but does not look like Guild quality stuff but we will see the finished product and make a judgement. Smiler
 
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For you guys that don't know Boss Hog, he is an expert in all things. We are sooo lucky to have him grace our forum.
Butch
 
Posts: 8964 | Location: Poetry, Texas | Registered: 28 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Nice but does not look like Guild quality stuff but we will see the finished product and make a judgement.



Butch, I agree. I'd like to ask BH to post some of HIS work here to the scrutiny of all, just to show us how it should be done. I did say HIS, not something he paid some other talented person to produce for him.


Shoot straight, shoot often.
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Man,that boss hog guy, I think he knows more than even Martha Stewart, and that bitch knows EVERYTHING.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5521 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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