This stuff works wonderful but I'm out. Any other easilly available sub or will I need to order from Brownells?

johnson's floor wax paste....

carnuba/beewax i think

if you need the brownells asap, i am in north houston and an loan you some

jeffe

ned

Shoe wax/polish, I think I have heard of other waxes being used if you’re in a bind. Maybe coat a piece of metal with it and try and "glue†it to another piece to make sure first.

I know the KIWI shoe wax works, just not sure about others.

Shawn

I normally just use Johnson Paste wax. A little messy but your wife's PAM will also work.

Start buying the Brownells release agent by the quart.

What El Jeffe said.

www.realmilkpaint.com and look for

I bought a can of this like four years ago and I haven't even made my way to half yet. You can use it on your furniture too. Family owned business, great people to talk to.

thanks guys...what's the best way to remove the paste wax after use?

The waxes will work. I normally heat the metal enough to melt it and insure coverage. Use a ton of it, let it flood the surface. I would also give it a light coat of PAM cooking spray over the wax, when cool. PVA is a release agent used in fiberglass moulds. Good stuff. Be very carefull, there is little more frustrating than a "glue job" that was not meant to be that way.

quote:

Originally posted by ned:
thanks guys...what's the best way to remove the paste wax after use?

Short answer: leave it on.

Longer answer: from visible surfaces, let it dry, then just buff the wax with a cloth to shine it up and use a toothbrush to get any visible wax out of stamped letters or engraving. Under the stock line, don't do anything.

The wax coated metal looks no different than bare steel, and is moderately more resistant to fingerprint or moisture induced rusting.

I prefer the wax to release agent because you can use the wax to fill the depressions that exist when pivot pins are shorter than the trigger they are in, or to fill any place where hardened epoxy could cause a mechanical lock (with the release agent, you need to mess with modelling clay or the like to do the same thing).

jpb

Ned,

I use Hornady One Shot Case Lube. No cleanup required.

Clemson

kiwi boot water proofing, get it at the grocery store. Best I have used and cheap.

Any type of no-stick cooking spray, especially the cheaper versions that don't have any butter/olive oil, etc. in it.

But...I think the bedding finishes the best(without air pockets, etc), with good old wax..or Snow-Seal.

Don't use PAM! It's use resulted in the destruction of a fine piece of walnut while trying to remove it from a barrel at the shop I occasionally frequent. I have had good results with carnuba car wax. But again don't use PAM!........DJ

We use Deft in aircraft fiberglass layups. Works like a charm.