THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM GUNSMITHING FORUM


Moderators: jeffeosso
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Bedding and pillars?
 Login/Join
 
One of Us
posted
I intend to use a wood laminated stock for a 505. Lots of recoil with 600 gr bullets. I have an extra, full size barrel lug milled on th barrel plus the normal action lug on a CZ 550 and two cross bolts.

I will bed (combination of Brownell's Glas bed and Steel bed) and am thinking about adding pillar bedding as well.

Saw this:

http://www.firearmssite.com/glass_bed.htm

and thought of I might add two more invisable cross bolts. One behind the barrel lug up front and one in front of the reciever lug.

Broke one stock already. Pillar bedding going to add anything on a wood laminate stock besides weaked the wrist by adding a bigger hole in the stock?
 
Posts: 265 | Registered: 09 July 2010Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
I always pillar bed if possible, it keeps all my screw slots timed properly and the end result is usually more accurate than a non-pillared rifle. It doesn't make the wrist any weaker but it does concentrate the added strength into one area instead of spread evenly throughout the wood, so in a catastrophe it might appear that it's weaker. I'm also a big believer in hidden crossbolts as well as visible ones. IMO a heave kicker needs all the support it can get, just good insurance.
Regards, Joe


__________________________
You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think.
NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
 
Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of Toomany Tools
posted Hide Post
There's not much reason to pillar bed a flat-bottom action in a solid wooden stock; it doesn't hurt, but it's not necessary. Now, in a softer sythetic stock I insist on it.


John Farner

If you haven't, please join the NRA!
 
Posts: 2947 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
When glass bedding I also use the hidden cross bolt on stocks that don't have cross bolts. It's extra insurance, I have yet to have a stock crack.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of ramrod340
posted Hide Post
quote:
There's not much reason to pillar bed a flat-bottom action in a solid wooden stock; it doesn't hurt, but it's not necessary. Now, in a softer sythetic stock I insist on it.

What John Said. tu2

I sure would add some crossbolts


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Over 100 years ago, Mauser proved that pillar bedding was superior for miltary use. Almost 50 years ago, Seely Masker proved that pillar bedding was superior for accuracy use. You guys can take your choice but I always pillar bed if possible, been doing it since the '70s and have never seen a reason to stop. Kinda like crossbolts, just good insurance.
Regards, Joe


__________________________
You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think.
NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
 
Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Pillars don't inherently increase accuracy, they only increase repeatability if the action is removed from the stock. A stress free, stable bedding surface leads to accuracy, however it is achieved.

If pillars were the be-all and end-all of accuracy, I doubt bench rest builders would deal with the pain in the rear of gluing in actions.

Contrary to what some others have said, I personally think a good pillar bedding job is more critical in a wood stock than a quality synthetic, as regardless of what some would claim, wood is an organic material and by it's very nature will expand, contract and allow moisture and air to enter. A good pillar bedding job eliminates any movement.
 
Posts: 876 | Registered: 09 June 2005Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
I am certaintly not in anyones league here as a gunsmith but can offer my thoughts as to why I pillar bed.
My reasons are sort of on the same line as CAS II and that is dependability and repeatability. Putting the pillars in the stock does away with the wood compressing over time and affecting if the point of impact will change. The same tension amount stays with the guard screws over time.
I never put pillars in a syn stock but have noticed the McMillan Edge stocks do have pillars in them while their regular stocks do not.


My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost.
 
Posts: 6658 | Location: Wasilla, Alaska | Registered: 22 February 2005Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Full Length bedding or http://www.savagearms.com/accuracy/accustock/ .


Wood is what it is , sturdy and beautiful to a point!. When wood and metal marry there is sufficient

reason especially with larger calibers to make that union a marriage made in heaven . Thermal expansion

and excessive transmittable shock warrants reinforcing wooden bedding fibers , with a High quality synthetic

epoxy and cross bolting or machining a full length insert similar too Savages accustock .

As each of us know complete rigidity is the end result of our desire !. If the above methods are used I

personally see little need for Pillars . But then again I'm not a gunsmith only a glorified Engineer !

salute archer archer
 
Posts: 4485 | Location: Planet Earth | Registered: 17 October 2008Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Epoxied in two external cross bolts today. Then cut and laid in three more invisable cross bolts between the two barrel lugs today. Only added one stock channel but used the other two CZ had cut previous.

Gotta let that dry before I bed the action and make the final decision on adding pillars or not. Likely I'll add them as it is so little effort to do so.

I appreciate all the comments, thank you.

Here is another question for you?

Forarm is all of 8.75" long with a 21" barrel.
Just to make things easier I am thinking about bedding the entire barrel and no free float, as the barrel lug is only 2.75 back from the forarm end. Do you see any down sides with that idea?
 
Posts: 265 | Registered: 09 July 2010Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by CAS II:
Pillars don't inherently increase accuracy, they only increase repeatability if the action is removed from the stock. A stress free, stable bedding surface leads to accuracy, however it is achieved.
Seely Masker proved that pillars increase accuracy.

If pillars were the be-all and end-all of accuracy, I doubt bench rest builders would deal with the pain in the rear of gluing in actions.
IMO pillars are 3X harder to do than glue-ins.

Contrary to what some others have said, I personally think a good pillar bedding job is more critical in a wood stock than a quality synthetic, as regardless of what some would claim, wood is an organic material and by it's very nature will expand, contract and allow moisture and air to enter. A good pillar bedding job eliminates any movement.
Very true.


__________________________
You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think.
NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
 
Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
In the FWIW catagory.

Steel bedded both the reciever lug and the barrel lug. (custom .505 cal. CZ) Then went back and added glass bed to fill in the gaps with the additional hidden cross bolts. Multi day job to get the epoxy to dry each time.

Found the Mauser style stainless pillars from Brownells easy to drill out the stock for, then cut and glue in. Perfect pressure fit once done drilled, which I did in seconds with a electric hand drill and a bit matching the dia. of the pillars. Literally a 20 minute job on my Magnum CZ 550.
 
Posts: 265 | Registered: 09 July 2010Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by J.D.Steele:
Over 100 years ago, Mauser proved that pillar bedding was superior for miltary use. Almost 50 years ago, Seely Masker proved that pillar bedding was superior for accuracy use. You guys can take your choice but I always pillar bed if possible, been doing it since the '70s and have never seen a reason to stop. Kinda like crossbolts, just good insurance.
Regards, Joe


Joe, if it is the steel "pillar" in the rear guard screw hole you are referring to I would raise the BS flag on that one. That steel ferrule was only used to inhibit the possibility of the the rear guard screw from compressing the wood from over tightening. This was a good thing in itself but often, with the ferrule being not secured in the wood, As what a real pillar bedding would do with bedding material, did not contribute to holding the rear tang against the wood; it would cause the action to float there.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5534 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Pillar bedding was easy.



Combo of Steel bed on the barrel and reciever lugs and brown colored Glas bed in the barrel channel not so much.



Internally reinforced rear cross bolt.

 
Posts: 265 | Registered: 09 July 2010Reply With Quote
Moderator
Picture of jeffeosso
posted Hide Post
use marine tex grey


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 40158 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Joe, if it is the steel "pillar" in the rear guard screw hole you are referring to I would raise the BS flag on that one. That steel ferrule was only used to inhibit the possibility of the the rear guard screw from compressing the wood from over tightening. This was a good thing in itself but often, with the ferrule being not secured in the wood, As what a real pillar bedding would do with bedding material, did not contribute to holding the rear tang against the wood; it would cause the action to float there.

Jim, all the military 1898s I've stripped, except one, have had their rear steel sleeves fixed so tightly in the wood that I've had to fab a special shouldered punch to remove them. I've seen one or two late-war laminated stocks (not mine) with loose rear sleeves but of course I was referring to the majority, the ones with tight sleeves.
Regards, Joe


__________________________
You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think.
NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
 
Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
  Powered by Social Strata  
 


Copyright December 1997-2023 Accuratereloading.com


Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia