If you had a rifle that had 5 holes tapped in front receiver and 5 in back. What would you do?
Use mount that covered the most?
Wire weld up holes?
Tig weld up holes?
What?

MIMS,
What have you gotten into? If it is a make/model worth working with, have it welded and finished(don't know what type of weld) and re-heat treated and then cyroed by TRI LAX. It would have to be something SPECIAL for me to go through this though.
Tell us more.
SAM

Sam,
Picked up a beautiful rifle in 9.3 x 62..a Husky with knock out custom stock but...some clown got a tap and die set for Christimas or something and did not know sic em from come here about how to drill two in a row straight. Right now I have them covered with everyday Weaver mounts and will use Burris Z rings atop.
One guys says wire weld as tig is too hot. Next guy said tig is the way to go and the operator controls how hot is hot. I don't know zip about either method. I don't want to drop big bucks in this project. Just soon shoot it as is for the money I have in it. I could easily sell the stock for what I have in the rifle provided I do not drop big bucks into fixing something that may not be worth fixing!
Just trying to get an idea what most would do and which weld up method is best.

You rifle sounds nicer than mine, I bought a customized type 99 Arisaka, it had a scope mounted with a weaver one piece mount, and a 4x Bushnell on top. I paid $65 for it, and it came with a box of Norma 7.7 and a box of empties. I took it to the range and it would put 3 shot's inside an inch at a 100yds, I was happy. Later I pulled the scope, and too my horor, it had been drilled 4 times for the front, with only one hole used, and 3 times in back with one hole used. I used J&B Weld to plug the holes, and secure the mount, it works fine. Later I picked up a new Lee Loader for the 7.7 Jap for $5, it loads great ammo, and I've never had to buy new cases.

If you know a GOOD fabricating welder talk with him. Within reason, yes the tig heat can be controlled, and is probably the way I would go. Because you have to fill so many holes and because of where the holes are, I would consider reheat treating a really smart choice. threaded plugs tigged in place and refinished would probably work also. FWIW - Dan

Tig is the only weld to use on the front ring, and only by someone who knows what he is doing. the rear ringcould be welded with any welde that does a nice job. anothe way is to use a plug screw the is slightly longer than needed, srew it in, hammer the top down, file it off, reblue, and if done right you will really have to look to find the boo boos, also a big scope base will help.

I had a similar problem on a commercial FN Mauser .270 this winter...

I tried, to some extent, all of the advice- filling a tapped hole is tough. If you can find an alloy to match the steel of the action i.e. chrome moly and turn an annealed pin to slightly oversize, start it in the hole and screw it in tight with a wrench. Cut it off 1/16 high and peen it over, file, polish with a ScotchBrite pad and it virtually disappears. I admit, it's tough to file off any excess that comes through on the inside of the receiver- you have to get in there like your dentist with a small burr...

Some screws are hardened and won't cooperate.

I found if I add one hole, I'll have the standard Mauser mount spacing and I'll cover the holes on the barrel with a Marbles #20... so maybe you can find a 2 pc. mount that fits some of the holes and TIG up the rear ring and fill the receiver ring with a pin.

just use a nickle steel welding rod, stick a piece in the hole, hammer it flat, polish then reblue.

Thanks everyone for the good answers.
At the moment and until I see if it will shoot good group I have just plugged the holes with filler screws and put the Weaver bases back on. Will put a 2.5 to 8 Leupold on top and see what it gets with the Norma 286 grn factory ammo. Then I will see what other avenues I will take.
I appreciate all the answers.

I think the gun is unsafe with all of those holes in it. I'll stop buy, pick up the rifle and dispose of it properly.

If done properly you can use filler screws and peen the top over to blend into the action then reblue and call it good. Or have it tig welded with as close to the same metal as posible usualy 4140 welding rod. If you have it welded the weld will be harder then the action and will be almost imposible to tap with out re heat treating it. If you decide to have it welded you could send the action to me and I could weld it at work.
you pay the shipping and it's done.
Kerry