How do vz 24 mauser actions rank against the Argentine 09, Brazilian 08. Are they Fine for a high grade custom?
Is there any difference in the metals or hardening?
I can get a prime condition one for US$200.

vz-24s aqre great actions.. though they are not 1908s or 1909s...

200 is twice too much, unless it's perfect

jeffe

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
vz-24s are great actions..
200 is twice too much,

Darn right, I can get a trunk full of them for $100 each.

VZ 24's are not as easy to come by for $100 as they once were, particularly in good condition. AIM sold some recently (one day sale) for $100, but these were the Russian captured, rearsenaled guns. Good for shooters.

Where are you finding truckloads for $100?

Clemson

2 years ago I was buying perfect vz-24's for $50

I have a 280 ackley built on a VZ-24 action. It seems to work just fine.

It is a matter of preference. The VZ24 will have more modern steel, the 1908 and 09 are casehardened. (I prefer the more modern steel)

The condition of the individual rifle is more important than which of these models it is.

quote:

Originally posted by MajorCaliber:
2 years ago I was buying perfect vz-24's for $50

Two years ago, oil was 30 dollars a barrel.

KurtC,
when you say more modern steel,what is the actual difference between the 08,09 steel and that in the vz24? and are not vz24 case hardened aswell?

Hopefully one of the metallurgists on this forum will correct me and give you a better answer.

Pre WWI mausers used softer steel, and were casehardened in all the critical areas. Sort of like the shell on a hard-boiled egg.

Beginning with the VZ24 in Czechoslovakia, and in the 1930's in Germany, the steel had more chromium alloy in it. Being stronger, it only needed to be uniformly heat treated instead of casehardened.

If I were to cut, grind, drill or otherwise butcher a military action, I would chose a post 1924 model so as to avoid the issue of re-casehardening.

quote:

If I were to cut, grind, drill or otherwise butcher a military action, I would chose a post 1924 model so as to avoid the issue of re-casehardening.

Many many Mausers have been converted to sporters with no hardening at all and have suffered no ill effects.

The heat treating and metal chemistry has been discussed to death here and a search will bring posts from some of the finest gunsmiths in the world...Burgess, Echols to name a couple off hand.

Personally I'd be reluctant to build any high pressure round on a pre WWII Mauser unless heat treated or "proven" in some manner.

I'm not afraid to build on post war mausers however.....and this primarily is the FNs and Zastavas.

Some of the best European makers are building WSM guns on intermmediate M98 recievers. I personally would not do it,cause of the pressures in those WSM.
DWM and WSM dont go together! Have alook at the "repetier buchse"300wsm on this site. I believe it is a large ring Peruvian?Intermmediate.
I would insist on nothing but a new action (Hartmann Weiss or GMA)for that combination.
http://www.waffenjung.de/

In late 1999 BIG5 was selling VZ24s on sale every other month for $70 + $6 tax = $76 out the door.

Now buying one from AIM with shipping and FFL will be $200 out the door:
http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/Czech_VZ24_8mm_Mauser_Package.html

I got some two months ago on sale from Century for $50 each, but they arrived without bolts. The bolts cost me $28 from other sources, so with FFL and bolts, $90 out the door.

J Belk had some things to say about them
https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tp.../r/95510044#95510042
and so did Keunhausen, but after sporterizing enough of them we form our own opinions. I like them.