For the experts: I had Boss removed from M70 Win S/S Classic which shortened the barrel from 26" to 22". Not satisfied wi the result. So, I am replacing the barrel wi a new, never used "take off" Win 26" barrel (without Boss).

Please, no questions why I did not opt for a premium replacement barrel; I know the pro & cons of doing so.

My question relates to whether I can/should have the action trued, square the bolt face, etc. I seem to recall (On this forum?) reading that you could not true the action which has a factory barrel (Already installed?). Due to inadequate tolerances? Would this, if so, also apply here where a new factory barrel is being used for replacement?

I'm more curious about the thought process. Or, why you might be concerned about a square action when you are contemplating the use of a factory produced barrel. Doesn't jive.

Hi,

Original barrel is off, so true your action, bolt face, raceways and whatever else strikes your fancy and ask your gunsmith to fit your un-bossed barrel to the trued action. One thread setback and chamber clean up. I could be wrong. Call home and ask my wife.

Luck,

Stephen

Westpac- Thanks for your quick reply. Your inference is that mine is a dumb question. But, as one of my old college professors said, "The only dumb question is the one that never gets asked." So, I continue to ask dumb questions. Now, having got that off my chest...

Lets assume I am a novice. I have no experience with this subject matter. I have never had a barrel replaced or had an action trued up or any other accurizing done.

Once upon a time I installed an FN Mauser barrelled action in a Herter's 90% finished stock. That remaining 10% undone was still a lot of work.) The result was pretty good; its .270 Win. and consistently shoots 3/4" MOA. It will do 1/2" on occasion, when the shooter (me) is doing his part.

Anyway, I raise the question for the reason that I have read in various sources that trueing the action when installing a new barrel (virtually always when involving a premium after market barrel)is recommended to improve accuracy. Also, most, it seems, mention it as one of the things they do when building a custom rifle.

I do not know what the cost factor is in doing this. Maybe that's where you are cominmg from. You seem to be speaking against doing this for a facory barrel. I appreciate that. But, what are your reasons. Why, specifically, should I not do it? Is it likely that I will not gain anything from it? What does not jive?

It seemed like the thing to do when having the barrel installed rather than having the barrel installed, then shooting it to determine acceptable accuracy, finding out it was not accurate and then taking it back to the smith to have action trued. I realize there are other things you can do to improve accuracy: bedding, trigger adjustment, handloading (which I do).

What more do you need about my thought process?

olguy,
I think other than installing the barrel, forget the rest of it as you will see no benefit on paper. The things done in a true redo of your receiver will change headspace, leave you with loose barrel threads, and with a factory barrel it will not benefit you. Why don't you have a good bedding job done and a good trigger. I suspect this is a hunting rifle and not a target rifle or it would be getting a custom barrel.
Westpac knows what he is talking about, he just doesn't sugar coat it.
Butch

How exactly does one "true" and action and then have a take=off barrel fit the "trued" threads?

Seems to me, that facing the action and lug seats is a waste of time if the action threads, barrel threads and chamber are not going to be set up with the same care.

Nothing at all wrong with a factory barrel and action, but to spend several bucks in a half assed attempt to improve accuracy is an exercise in futility.

quote:

Please, no questions why I did not opt for a premium replacement barrel; I know the pro & cons of doing so.

First off Olguy, I didn't infer any such thing. I was merely curious as to why someone, stating he knows the pro's and con's, would entertain the possibility of dumping money into a standard action to make it something special only to then stick a standard, run of the mill factory barrel on it in hopes of what? That's what doesn't jive. Nothing more, nothing less.

If you were my customer I would recommend against doing anything special to the receiver until you are ready to take it up a notch and include a premium barrel. Recommending such a thing might cost me money in the immediate sense, but in the long run I would be fine with it.

One thing you need to know up front is that truing an action might require new receiver threads, which will require rethreading the barrel. Better to address this when fitting a new barrel that trying to adapt a factory take off. Good luck though.

the#1 thing controlling the flight of the bullet is the barrel. Some factory barrels shoot quite well (rem. for instance - usually) others don't. what you are proposed is to spend $400 or so on an action which has 10% of controlling the flight while ignoring the 90% to chance. i believe that is what is being suggested to you. not to say you are right or wrong, just that experience is speaking to you

Hey Westpac- Thanks for your input. Sorry if I inartfully expressed knowing the pros & cons of premium barrel replacement. What I was trying to say is that I understand the value of premium barrels. I am ignorant of the process of satisfactorily mating a barrel to a trued action and getting improved accuracy.

I was not going to have the action trued before buying the barrel. I bought the barrel and am waiting for delivery. What I wanted to find out before fitting the barrel was if the action could or should be trued at the same time as fitting the barrel.

I think I read somewhere that there may be a problem. Not enough metal to do the machining required to mate the barrel to action? Pardon if I am not using the right lingo. Or, its more a matter of having to redo the barrel to get it to mate with the receiver?

You guys (including Butch & CassII ) are now getting to the meat of my question. With a factory barrel it appears you would have to do additional machining to the barrel, if that's possible), after doing the action, and even then it may not be a satisfactory marriage of action to barrel, depending on the care given to setting it up.

Butch is correct; it is a hunting rifle. (I did not want to spend the $500 or so for a premium barrel; I got the take-off barrel ,never fired, for $75). But, I still want the best accuracy I can get. I can live with 1 1/2" MOA; none of my rifles (all factory) does less. I read of factory rifles getting 2"-3" MOA and of 2" being acceptable hunting accuracy; that's not for me.

The trigger is adjusted down to 3 lbs; as for bedding job, I would try that after the barrel is installed if its not accurate enough.

butchloc- Thanks for introducing the cost factor; I would not spend $400 to do this. Not saying it is too much; a guy has to receive adequate pay for his work. I just do not want to spend that much. As for experience I highly value it; that's why I am on here.

Guys- I get the impression that you all think I am pushing to justify truing this action wi this take-off barrel. Not so, I was wanting information to make a decision. I do not think I was wrong in raising the issue, for Lord Frith made it sound like it was a simple straight forward matter. It seems it is a little more complicated. You have given me what I needed. I will just go ahead with the barrel installation without truing the action.

Thanks for your input and patience.

No way would I pay to true an action and stick a factory take off barrel on it. Not counting the potential thread issues. You just arent' going to gain much if anything from spending the $$. If you are happy with a 1.5" group then save your $$. No way will truing an action turn a 3" barrel/action combo into a 1.5" combo.

...

can i answer your question with some questions?
what caliber are we talking about?

how did the gun shoot when you removed the original barrel? that is, what prompted you to remove the barrel? too slow? not accurate enough? too loud? just didn't like the look?

as for replacing the barrel, unless you recut the chamber and recrown the barrel, you are likely to see "Factory" results ... but its likely you'll have to time the barrel, correct headspace- which is likely recutting the chamber.

we have ALL seen milsurp rifles that went from 3" to <1" by ONLY swapping the barrel with a new one.. notice i didn't say premium .. that word is misused ... we only have measurement for what isn't premium, not what is. as compared to most factory barrels, nearly anything properly installed, INCLUDING RECHAMBRED FACTORY BARRELS, shoots better than run of the line factory barrels.

a good, minimum chamber, good crown, and good ammo usually make for really good results.

as for truing the action? if that includes, in your mind, recutting the barrel threads, then for me, no .. squaring the action . using a threaded mandrel, sure thing, and results in a good alignment..

.. class 3 fit on the threads? that would be nice, but sould be on the BARREL....

Jeff: Its .300WM. (And, I am not rechambering for different cartridge.) See initial post, barrel was not removed; I had Boss cut off, barrel recrowned. Lost 4" of barrel, from 26" to 22". Loss in velocity; now roughly equal to
30-06. Inadequate accuracy with different handloads and factory loads. Noise/looks not a factor.

I bought a $75 take off, unfired factory Win. barrel (thru Gun Broker)& I am awaiting its delivery. When it arrives I will have current barrel removed & the replacement installed. My aim here was to determine if I should have the action trued when the "new" barrel is installed.

It seems that most on here recommend against truing the action for a factory barrel- or that if done that the barrel should be rethreaded. But, it is appropriate to true the action if installing a "premium" barrel. (I used the term, premium, admittedly overused, when perhaps, "after market" would be better description, because that is the commonly used term. To me, premium means top of the line and you can get various grades of after market barrels as you know.)

Questions: (Excuse my ignorance) but what are timing the barrel and class 3 fit? Does the chamber need to be recut if I stick with the same .300WM cartridge? (I have not ever heard of recutting the chamber to improve accuracy.
When I take it in to smith I will raise the issue.) If recutting barrel threads do you lose overall barrel length? How much?

Are you in agreement here, with others, that without recutting threads there will be loose fit resulting in poor accuracy? You seem to be suggesting that just truing the action without recutting barrel threads will/should improve accuracy. Am I missing something? (Probably.)

Thanks for your input. You were very informative, as have been others.

Like the folks are telling you, spending the money on the action work and installing a factory take-off barrel will not yield any better accuracy results than simply screwing on the factory barrel. I put a take off on a rifle and was never happy with its accuracy.

You may get lucky and the barrel will shoot well, but I believe you will be much happier with a good custom barrel, blueprinted action, and a good crown.

Don't throw good money after bad.

One thing also, maybe it was discussed and I missed it is, when you turn in the factory barrel a thread to line things up such as lettering. You will have to lengthen the chamber a tad. Every time I have done that, the factory chamber is so out of true (large) you end up leaving a scar on the fired brass. Then guess who gets the blame. I will never fit a factory barrel to a action. It never comes out good! When you do it for yourself you will always be happy. But customers aren't when they are paying premium dollar.

Does that make sense?

Waste of time and money. Just screw the barrel on and be done.

Why was the Boss removed? It is used to enhance the accuracy of a factory barrel. Or so goes the theory.

kc- The Boss does two things: muzzle brake & adjustable for accracy. In my experience it did enhance accuracy. But, whenever you changed a load, let's say from 165 gr to 180 gr, you had to dial it in again.

And, if you handload it introduces another significant variable. I just found it to be a pain in the arse when trying to work up loads, too time & component consuming for me. When you change components you also have to deal with the Boss.

If you get a factory load dialed in and stick with it; not a problem. I shot cloverleafs with 165gr Win. Failsafes. But, when I changed to heavier bullet or different make, then I had to find the "sweet spot" again. Now, imagine if you are trying to work up a load for one or, especially, several different makes and/or weights of bullets, or using different powders,etc.

Changing load components changes barrel harmonics and that's what the Boss does; its a dial-like affair which you can adjust to compensate for changes in components and/or cartridge makes and/or different bullet weights.

I had a gunsmith tell me a few years ago the Boss was a marketing gimmick; that if you made good barrels a Boss was not necessary. Wish I had talked to him before I bought. At the time the concept seemed like a good idea; I just didn't think it thru.

Winchester has discontinued the Boss (I don't know why; I have a pretty good guess.) but I believe Browning is still offering it.

I think that's what I will do; have the barrel screwed on and talk to the smith about recutting chamber per Jeff. Sounds like doing more is kinda chancey.

Olguy,

You have to remember you're talking to higher end gunsmiths and purists here. When you use the term "truing" the action, they think of defining an axis for it to be trued to, and then rethreading the action parallel to that axis, facing off the action perpendicular to that axis, indicating the barrel concentric to the bore, threading the barrel concentric to the bore and fitting the threads tightly, chambering concentric to the bore and threads, squaring the locking lugs and mating them to the action, and squaring the bolt face. A lot of work, and a lot of money involved, for not much return if the barrel isn't up to top accuracy.

There may be some middle ground, and you could talk to your smith about it, and decide if it's worth what he charges to do it.

In refitting a factory barrel, some improvment can generaly be made by setting it back a thread or two to allow some room to have a proper chamber cut and clean up the factory chamber, face off the action perpendicular to the action threads, lap in the bolt lugs to good contact with the action, and lap the barrel in to the action to make sure the mating surfaces meet well.

I commonly lap in factory barrels/actions, and find that you can decrease the groups by about half in the worst cases, and do essentially nothing to the rifles that already shoot well. However, not a lot of cost or effort in lapping in a factory barrel. Most factory actions are about .002" to .003" off of square with their threads, or at least that's what it takes lapping off of the high points to get 100% circumferential contact with the barrel. I think it's worth the effort, but then again, I do my own work and it's just an hour of my time to pull a barrel, lap it, lap the bolt lugs, and reinstall and check headspace. Add a half hour to set the barrel back and rechamber,which I also do if the chamber is out of round or oversize. It might, or might not, be money well spent to have your smith do it. He may have a mandrel that allows the action to be faced square with the action threads, which takes the place of the lapping that I mentioned.

I also would not "true" an action in the sense of my first paragraph, unless I added a few dollars to the investment and bought a new, quality barrel to start with.

dave

quote:

Originally posted by ssdave:
Olguy,


I also would not "true" an action in the sense of my first paragraph, unless I added a few dollars to the investment and bought a new, quality barrel to start with.

dave

That's the point everyone is trying to make.

The other thing Olguy
I know it's to late now but it a FYI. There were a few gun rag writers that did tests and came to the rough conclusion that a few division one way or the other on the boss didn't amount to much. Once you found the sweet spot you could record it location and dial it back to where it was.

That said I personally don't like them as they just look as hell. And it never really solved any problems for reloaders. you either tune the barrel to the load or tune the load to the barrel. Well for a loader the answer is simple.

You basically blew it when you cut the BOSS off if accuracy was the goal. You should have learned to use it. No real load development necessary, load a safe MAX load and tune the BOSS till it one-holes.

Recommended settings are given on the website for different bullet weights to get you close. Browning has a video to teach you how to tune it as well which is foolproof

I have one on an A-bolt .223 that I can make hits on steel at 760 yards with 52 grain MK's

The BOSS is genius.

Okay.. have the barrel installed, and timed .. timed is where the lettering/wholes line up AND headspace is SHORT.. if headspace is long, it will take an entire thread to come around again ..

then have it carefully rehambered and crowned.. it should shoot very well, at least as good as an AB .. and i've had those that are 1/2moa.

don't take any guff over not using a "premium" barrel .. that's not a measurement, thats an ego statement. since there is NO WAY TO PREDICT ACCURACY based off the name on the outside of the barrel .. or even if 'scoped on the inside, its my position that the best way to ensure accuracy is to have a concentric, min-spec chamber and a good crown.

i am NOT a barrel or rifle snob .. i like all guns.. and when a problem gets resolved for $200 rather than $2000, i think that's great

btw, you could have considered, and may have, replacing the boss with a solid boss.

as for the "Arguments" against a boss, then those that deny their benefit don't either understand the benefit and/or don't care to use it.

the boss is PATENTED and BATTLE PROVEN to increase accuracy. Ask yourself have many barrel makers, premium or otherwise, have current patents that are certain to improve the barrel, or your money back.

the boss was developed by FN on the MAS sniper rifle, and was only changed when the shooter recieved his next X00 more rounds, as it was tuned for the load and was the best accuracy for that barrel, stock, and load, for that gun.

If you have the barrel off already why not lap the lugs and bolt face to square them up. Also square the face of the receiver. This shouldn't cost too much and will make a big difference in accuracy. The threads do not have to be recut even though that is a good step. Brownells sells the bolt lapping bushings so you could do this yourself. When I build a gun I always lap everything in and true the face of the receiver but I don't recut threads. Most factory barrels have such sloppy threads that they square up to the face of the receiver when the barrel is tightened.

quote:

Originally posted by srose:
If you have the barrel off already why not lap the lugs and bolt face to square them up. Also square the face of the receiver. This shouldn't cost too much and will make a big difference in accuracy. The threads do not have to be recut even though that is a good step. Brownells sells the bolt lapping bushings so you could do this yourself. When I build a gun I always lap everything in and true the face of the receiver but I don't recut threads. Most factory barrels have such sloppy threads that they square up to the face of the receiver when the barrel is tightened.

Finally, some one agrees with me on this idea of truing the action via inexpensive methods. Lapping, smoothing and polishing internals and externals-pleasant, to me, way to spend shop time and produce noticeable results. Good thing this is not a CZ. We might be bending the barrel to true every thing.
Thanks Sam,

Stephen

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
don't take any guff over not using a "premium" barrel .. that's not a measurement, thats an ego statement. since there is NO WAY TO PREDICT ACCURACY based off the name on the outside of the barrel ..

Your inexperience and inability to comprehend what is written is showing. First, no one is giving him any "guff" over not using a premium barrel. Second, I can predict with 99.99% accuracy whether a "premium barrel" install, coming from this shop, will perform better than a factory take off using the same action.

Again Keffe, in case you missed it, you need only look to the various shooting venues to get the skinny for what is and isn't working. When talking accuracy you need look no further than the boy's shooting for titles, trophy's and money to see what they are doing to succeed. You won't find A&B barrels or any take off barrel in the winners circle.

A person doesn't have to go full bore to get satisfactory results, but the less steps you skip, the better the results. And that's 100% accurate.

Think of it this way, unlike marrying a cousin, when marrying a barrel to an action, there will be greater harmony, overall happiness and less gnashing of the teeth if the quality of the barrel and receiver are worthy of the other... malm:10:5

quote:

Originally posted by Westpac:
Your ...inability to comprehend what is written is showing.

LMFAO

quote:

Please, no questions why I did not opt for a premium replacement barrel; I know the pro & cons of doing so.

reading comprehension

olguy
When you think about action truing, you can quickley get into the price of a new barrel which will do a lot more toward improving accuracy than action truing. Sometimes a good bedding job can do wonders at a reasonable cost.
The guys that go for real accuracy buy a custom action, not try to make a factory action comparable. A custom action will be worth nearly what you pay for it. A reworked Rem 700 action will be a modified factory action of questionable worth.
Back to the question you asked. Have a smith with a good reputation install your factory barrel and I just bet it shoots fine. He will advise what he thinks is needed. I wouldn't be against rechamber and recrown. Kenny

quote:

Originally posted by Westpac:

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
don't take any guff over not using a "premium" barrel .. that's not a measurement, thats an ego statement. since there is NO WAY TO PREDICT ACCURACY based off the name on the outside of the barrel ..

Your inexperience and inability to comprehend what is written is showing. First, no one is giving him any "guff" over not using a premium barrel. Second, I can predict with 99.99% accuracy whether a "premium barrel" install, coming from this shop, will perform better than a factory take off using the same action.

Again Keffe, in case you missed it, you need only look to the various shooting venues to get the skinny for what is and isn't working. When talking accuracy you need look no further than the boy's shooting for titles, trophy's and money to see what they are doing to succeed. You won't find A&B barrels or any take off barrel in the winners circle.

A person doesn't have to go full bore to get satisfactory results, but the less steps you skip, the better the results. And that's 100% accurate.

Think of it this way, unlike marrying a cousin, when marrying a barrel to an action, there will be greater harmony, overall happiness and less gnashing of the teeth if the quality of the barrel and receiver are worthy of the other... malm:10:5

What does the name on the outside of a barrel have to do with accuracy? In reality, nothing. Just as a prediction means nothing in reality. What does a factory barrel have to do with accuracy? Again, nothing. Seems to me there are many factors than just a barrel affecting accuracy. This discussion, to me, is akin to trying to pick fly shit out of pepper.

Stephen

Well I will go on record saying the barrel is as important as anything in an accurate rifle. Lapping the lugs is a futile attempt to help accuracy.
Butch

quote:

Originally posted by Lord Frith:


What does the name on the outside of a barrel have to do with accuracy?

Almost everything

quote:

In reality, nothing. Just as a prediction means nothing in reality. What does a factory barrel have to do with accuracy? Again, nothing. Seems to me there are many factors than just a barrel affecting accuracy. This discussion, to me, is akin to trying to pick fly shit out of pepper.

Stephen

Lets just put it this way If you have a crap barrel, it matters not how perfectly it is mounted nor how smooth the bolt moves ore square it locks up. IF THE BARREL IS GARBAGE SO IS YOUR ACCURACY.
Variables:: oh yes there are thousands of variables that lead to good accuracy. But the Barrel is near the top of the list right under how well it's made and above how it mounted.

So to say the barrel has nothing to do with accuracy is just pure ignorance

quote:

Originally posted by kcstott:

quote:

Originally posted by Lord Frith:


What does the name on the outside of a barrel have to do with accuracy?

Almost everything

quote:

In reality, nothing. Just as a prediction means nothing in reality. What does a factory barrel have to do with accuracy? Again, nothing. Seems to me there are many factors than just a barrel affecting accuracy. This discussion, to me, is akin to trying to pick fly shit out of pepper.

Stephen

Lets just put it this way If you have a crap barrel, it matters not how perfectly it is mounted nor how smooth the bolt moves ore square it locks up. IF THE BARREL IS GARBAGE SO IS YOUR ACCURACY.
Variables:: oh yes there are thousands of variables that lead to good accuracy. But the Barrel is near the top of the list right under how well it's made and above how it mounted.

So to say the barrel has nothing to do with accuracy is just pure ignorance

The key word is prediction. Just repeating and commenting on that already written. Also, I do not remember any one writing that a barrel has nothing to do with accuracy.

Stephen

So you are trying to say that we can't "predict" that a factory barrel will not preform as well as a premium aftermarket barrel?? So I guess all the decades of experience the members of the forum have mean squat??

And here is you comment that you can't seam to remember

quote:

What does a factory barrel have to do with accuracy? Again, nothing.

You can't just make a blanket statement like that and expect no one to call BS on it.

So the name on the back of the car has nothing to do with how fast it is? So the camber id on the side of the barrel means nothing?? in your way of thinking anything that is a prediction even though based on experience is meaningless?? correct. DO you tell that to the cop that pulled you over for speeding because he could not possibly tell exactly how fast you were going.

It's called "an educated guess, Best Judgment, In my experience", Etc. So you have never guessed about anything, used your best judgment, or took a risk based on experience??

Oh what a sheltered life we live!!!

KC,
I have a couple rifles that have rechambered factory barrels .. my favorite example is my wife's 708 on a mexican mauser, with a titan 6x scope ... it is LIGHTS OUT accurate .. barrel was a takeoff win 7mag, etc ... why did i use it? it was FREE and she wanted a lighter profile barrel than anyone would make aftermarket.

is a factory made, run of the line rifle LIKELY to be more accurate than a custom made gun? Nope.

but i've seen MANY AB barrels that are MOA or better.. works well for hunting rifles, and they are almost always rougher than a decent factory barrel.

is it usually EASIER to get a submoa barrel if you start with a name brand barrel? yep .. but NOT usually required.

HOWEVER, premium barrels also have stinkers in them, that just won't shoot ... which is why they frequently have a money back policy .. because the makers KNOW this can happen.

and, once again, the OP wanted to know about installing a take off barrel ... and if there was anyway to help that along .. ..

he OBVIOUSLY didn't want anything about premium barrels, as he had DELIBERATELY made the choice to stick with a factory stick. he reasons are his own, and I am okay with that.

once again, will a shilen, with proper install, likely shoot better than a factory barrel? sure it will ...

and just as surely, a reworked factory barrel, with a PROFESSIONAL chamer and crown will more than likely shoot better than an untouched factory barrel.

Jeff,
I think you didn't read KC's post.
Butch

Butch,
I did .. the first part was addressed to him, the rest to the "world" .. the guy wants a takeoff barrel installed, and isn't asking any of us to do the work.. just wanted some advice.

No Jeff that post was directed at and only to Lord frith.

I understand your point Jeff. But I'm not as concerned about the OP as I am the complete ignorance posted by LF. The whole BS on predictions. Like making a barrel is voodoo or something and we have not idea what makes a barrel a good shooter and what does not.

There are reams of documentation supporting the evidence that a well made barrel has a far better chance of becoming a good shooter then a hammer forged POS Ruger barrel. I'm not saying the the prodigal factory barrel doesn't exist nor does the crap supper premium barrel. What I'm saying is if you start off with the best components you can afford combined with the best craftsmanship you can buy. The chances are (by a wide margin) you will have a top shooting rifle. Simple as that.

And to say that there is no difference Accuracy wise between a brand name or OEM barrel is pure rubbish. We're not shooting craps here. we have experienced barrel makers with real world shooting experience producing top quality and consistent barrels. There is no prediction about it. You plan you part, you set you tolerances and make the best product you can. That "will", not "that it might under idea conditions" but "will" produce a top shooting barrel.

If everything was left to chance why the hell was I worried about hitting my tolerance for the last twenty frickin years. I'm a damn toolmaker and nothing is a friggin guess. It's either the correct dimension or it's not.


Edited to remove my foul mouthed words

Thanks Jeff: You get it. I was not pushing the idea that replacing an action with a factory barrel should be accompanied by truing the action. I was looking for advice and information whether it should be considered.

I have read in gun mags that truing actions, rebedding, free floating barrels, etc. were
ways to improve accuracy. However, I learned to take some (a lot?) of the stuff in those mags with a grain of salt.

There seems to be a difference of opinion here as to the value of truing the action for a factory barrel. (Some of the opinions and comments have been helpful; some, not so much.)I have come to the conclusion that perhaps a limited amount of work on my action can be of value, but it would be chancey (moneywise) spending the bucks for fully truing the action and mating the barrel.

I knew when I raised the issue that my chances of getting better accuracy with an aftermarket
barrel was greater than with a factory barrel, particularly if the action was trued. But I also know that not all factory barrels are innacurate. I am willing to take the chance on a factory barrel, considering the expense. If it does not work out then on to plan B.

rca: Don't share your opinion of the Boss. I know how to use it. Aside from the video, the Owner's Manual also explains how to use it and has recommended settings for different bullet weights, as starting points. When I found
"sweet spots" I recorded them. Finding them was not the problem. When changing/developing loads it required more time & components than I was willing to expend. I have talked to others that thought as did I.

I find your comment about finding a safe load and dialing in surprising, to say the least. Pretty general statement. Like I said, I dialed in a factory load that shot cloverleafs; that does not obviate the need to adjust for a different load.

If the Boss is a genius it is maybe an example of marketing genius; it sold some rifles. NOTE: Winchester discontinued it. Browning
continued offering it; don't know if they still do.

In any event I decided what I will do. I will have barrel installed and discuss wi smith how much to do with action, squaring up, etc. If cost is acceptable will proceed accordingly.

Olguy
Sounds like you got it handled.
Don't let this thread deter you from asking more questions. Everything posted here needs to be taken into context. All of us here have differing view on what constitutes accuracy. What may be fine for one may not be tolerable for another. I just picked up a 2.4 million serial numbered M1 Garand Rebuilt in the 1950's I don't expect it to shot better then 3 MOA with surplus ammo and iron sights a worn barrel and a older set of eyes trying to focus on those iron sights. And I'm willing to accept it for what it is.
Then there's the pocket book syndrome. Not everyone has a fat load of hundreds sitting in their back pocket just wait to blow on a new rifle nor have one rebuilt. And some have to make due with what we can, not necessarily what we want. Your rifle should shoot fine but may not be a tack driver. But you have stated you are willing to accept that.

Let us know how it turns out.

kc- Thanks for your comments. You put the issue in right context. If I had unlimited funds would not even have raised the issue; would simply have gone to one of the premier gun builders & said here is what I want; build it.

Understand about aging eyes, though mine are still pretty good. I shot my son's M1 Garand a couple of weeks ago. First time I ever shot one; never had the opportunity before for some reason. Back in the 50's, while in the Air National Guard, we only had M1 carbines.

First clip in the Garand I did not do well. Second clip I began to get the "feel" and used to the aperture sight (had to adjust it couple of times) and began to shrink the group. Got it down to 4-5"; it will do better according to son about 2-3" with his handloads. (Standard loads for Garand.)I think I can improve with more time with it.

I love the sound of that clink when the clip ejects on last round. I was surprised by the light recoil. I really appreciate now Gen'l Patton's comment about it as the greatest battle implement of WWII, or somthing like that. It was a fun shoot. (Hate to admit it but my 17 yr old grandson outshot me that day- with M1 and 1911 45 Auto.)

My son was testing handloads for two other rifles, getting very good results. One was .300WM and the other .338WM. Holes touching each other on couple of loads. With that he decided: good enough.) Ain't it great when you can get out with family to do something you all love? Don't get to do it often enough as they live very busy lives about
60 mi away.

Yes, I will let you know the results. Thanks to all.